This might sound REALLY stupid but....
What is stopping you from removing the cover off the old one, twisting it, and reinstalling it so that the bolts are in the right configuration?
Commodore booster and Master on LH/X.
Started by
_rorym_
, Jan 27 2009 07:23 PM
144 replies to this topic
#126
_Lamo_
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Posted 12 April 2009 - 07:45 AM
This might sound REALLY stupid but....
What is stopping you from removing the cover off the old one, twisting it, and reinstalling it so that the bolts are in the right configuration?
#127
_rorym_
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Posted 12 April 2009 - 09:51 AM
The square mounting plate on the face would be at a strange angle if you could.
I have all the bits...will do a sticky on the whole process with pics as I do it.
R
I have all the bits...will do a sticky on the whole process with pics as I do it.
R
#128
wot179
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Posted 12 April 2009 - 09:54 AM
Are the front covers interchangeable?
#129
_rorym_
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Posted 12 April 2009 - 09:56 AM
The wheel exists already guys
Stop trying to reinvent it
#130
wot179
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Posted 12 April 2009 - 10:05 AM
Six pages on this conversion already......just tryin to keep it alive.
#131
_rorym_
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Posted 16 April 2009 - 05:27 PM
Booster is out..waiting on the pipe flare kit and I will do the Torviki thing.
R
R
Edited by rorym, 16 April 2009 - 05:28 PM.
#132
LXCHEV
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Posted 21 April 2009 - 10:25 PM
Just thought you guys might like to know how I did mine:
(Datto helped me out with this setup many many years ago):
I started with my standard LX booster (inline bolts/mounts for the master cyl) and standard pushrod.
I picked up a 2nd hand UC booster (diagonal bolts/mounts for the master cyl).
Since I wanted to have my booster re-co'd anyway, I simply supplied both boosters, and had them use the rear half of the LX booster, with the front half of the UC booster. Simple as that, job done. No stuffing around with cutting or welding pushrods, just whack the booster back in with all the original bits. Except now you have the diagonal bolt pattern, so simply grab whatever master cylinder you want (I went for the cheapest Commodore one - I think it's VS or VN), and bolt it straight on. The only custom part of the entire job is sorting out the brake lines (different threads). I just made all new lines up from scratch. And that was it.
My reason for this conversion was purely to get rid of the ugly prop stuff on the inner guard.
(Datto helped me out with this setup many many years ago):
I started with my standard LX booster (inline bolts/mounts for the master cyl) and standard pushrod.
I picked up a 2nd hand UC booster (diagonal bolts/mounts for the master cyl).
Since I wanted to have my booster re-co'd anyway, I simply supplied both boosters, and had them use the rear half of the LX booster, with the front half of the UC booster. Simple as that, job done. No stuffing around with cutting or welding pushrods, just whack the booster back in with all the original bits. Except now you have the diagonal bolt pattern, so simply grab whatever master cylinder you want (I went for the cheapest Commodore one - I think it's VS or VN), and bolt it straight on. The only custom part of the entire job is sorting out the brake lines (different threads). I just made all new lines up from scratch. And that was it.
My reason for this conversion was purely to get rid of the ugly prop stuff on the inner guard.
#133
View GaragePosted 22 April 2009 - 07:09 AM
Ah, so maybe you can answer the $10M question... does it perform any better/different to before? Or is it just a cosmetic improvement?My reason for this conversion was purely to get rid of the ugly prop stuff on the inner guard.
#134
LXCHEV
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Posted 22 April 2009 - 10:15 AM
Brakes definitely feel great - however I can't comment on the 'Before & After' as I did this booster/master conversion at the same time as upgrading from LX brakes to HQ brakes!!
#135
_SS Hatchback_
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Posted 22 April 2009 - 09:48 PM
Ah, so maybe you can answer the $10M question... does it perform any better/different to before? Or is it just a cosmetic improvement?
Mines a commodore cover on the lx booster , 1 inch commodore master and i did it when i upgraded to the hopper front brake kit and converted the rears to disc, the master made a difference then but never just tried it with the standard brakes. My prop valve was already hidden so it was just a bonus i could then remove it.
#136
Posted 22 April 2009 - 10:05 PM
I don't have standard brakes anymore anyway, just really curious as to whether there's value in the later master cylinders. I have a reco'ed factory dual diaphragm booster and 1" master which had good feel with the original brakes but not so nice now with the Hoppers kit and rear discs. Still works well and pedal travel isn't excessive, just doesn't have that feel. Thanks for the info, food for thought
#137
fuzzypumper
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Posted 23 April 2009 - 12:52 PM
Using the original calipers & rotors, I would speculate that this modification is more cosmetic, and why not. It de-cluters the engine bay and that can only be a good thing, except for those of you who wish to keep their Torana concourse.
If youre going from the original M/cyl to the 1" combo then I would say youre not likely to feel any braking performance increase under normal driving conditions.
However you possibly may detect an increase in braking performance due to the greater crack point from 150 to 350 introduced with the combo M/cyl which will apply more braking to the rear drums under specific and heavier braking conditions. But unless your rear drums are running at peak efficiency, I doubt your going to feel it.
If you make the modification and find the brakes are better, I'd say your original M/cyl + prop. valve or fliud had issues from the begining.
If youre going from the original M/cyl to the 1" combo then I would say youre not likely to feel any braking performance increase under normal driving conditions.
However you possibly may detect an increase in braking performance due to the greater crack point from 150 to 350 introduced with the combo M/cyl which will apply more braking to the rear drums under specific and heavier braking conditions. But unless your rear drums are running at peak efficiency, I doubt your going to feel it.
If you make the modification and find the brakes are better, I'd say your original M/cyl + prop. valve or fliud had issues from the begining.
#139
_LXChev366_
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Posted 25 April 2009 - 03:15 PM
Here ya go Rory... here is my Brake Booster set up...mate real simple !!
#140
_rorym_
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Posted 25 April 2009 - 04:27 PM
Hahaha! You sent it to me before !! I still have it in my pictures section.!!..One day I will try it without the booster to see if I can handle it.
I finished the pinned tech article at the top of the section.
R
I finished the pinned tech article at the top of the section.
R
Edited by rorym, 25 April 2009 - 04:29 PM.
#141
_LXChev366_
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Posted 25 April 2009 - 04:33 PM
yep I saw that...now I will just wait for all the Q's... re why no booster!!
#142
_brett_32i_
_brett_32i_
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Posted 25 April 2009 - 05:23 PM
Here ya go Rory... here is my Brake Booster set up...mate real simple !!
i know why not to run a booster, more predictable braking.
so whats the go there? how much advantage do you lose out of not using a booster. how closely does removing the vacuum hose simulate your setup?
Edited by brett_32i, 25 April 2009 - 05:23 PM.
#143
_rorym_
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Posted 09 May 2009 - 05:29 PM
OK...first impressions are more feel through the pedal, rock solid pedal as well..moves about 25mm to biting....pedal pressure feels higher...might be from the big cam....squats really well now and you can feel the rears biting...fronts lock before the rears ...didnt hit them that hard to do 4 wheel lock up....when it starts to lock you can come off a bit to roll the wheels again..great feel as I said.
R
R
#144
_brett_32i_
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Posted 12 May 2009 - 09:32 AM
what setup are you talking about rory? commodore booster? i assume booster as you mentioned the cam.
#145
Posted 12 May 2009 - 12:06 PM
Hmmm, sounds good Rory, especially the higher pedal (still not sure how that works with the same size master but never mind!)
I've actually stumbled across an easier way, waiting for an original master cylinder to arrive that's been modified to 1 1/8" with a stainless sleeve. I have the original dual diaphragm booster so hopefully this will give more feel.
I've actually stumbled across an easier way, waiting for an original master cylinder to arrive that's been modified to 1 1/8" with a stainless sleeve. I have the original dual diaphragm booster so hopefully this will give more feel.
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