
#51
Posted 17 July 2006 - 12:14 AM
I've sent Dad the link too.
Might get him motivated to do some more work on his.
Cheers,
#52
_Lostit_
Posted 17 July 2006 - 01:59 PM
Denis
#53
Posted 17 July 2006 - 04:42 PM
TORLX8: Thanks mate


Denis: I must be getting old *Grabs his bad back..* LOL I dunno man.. I guess i'm just scared of yoru diff centre claiming ANOTHER axle

#54
Posted 20 October 2006 - 03:23 PM
BUT! Things are moving along once again.
Ive taken teh car to EZE-10s performance wehre Mark is looking after it well.
We;ve taken the engine out to find the reason behind this oil pressure problem and we found out this morning what's been happening!!
The bloody head of the pickup HAS broken off! It didnt fall off but was rotating around the pickup tube!
Now.. the problem that this has caused is a fair bit of crap right through the oiling system, which in turn has hammered the bearings. Now luckily ( so far) it doesnt look like theres any damage to the crank, but a few of the main bearings are the worse for wear!
Were also taking out the gear drive, because it seems it's caused a problem. But i'll let you know more about that once ive confirmed whats happened.
SO! Hopefully theres not alot of damage, but theres defiintely some to fix! GOing to strip it completely and measure everything to see that everything is still in the right condition, and if everything is ok.. give it all a bath to clean the gunk out and re-assemble her!
Fingers crossed we dont find anything else!
Cheers.
Tiny.
#55
_MRNOS_
Posted 20 October 2006 - 03:26 PM

#56
Posted 20 October 2006 - 03:36 PM

#57
_HatchmanSS76_
Posted 20 October 2006 - 04:31 PM
It's good the oil problems been found but bad news that it has caused some damage. It sux when parts fail essecically when you think your paying for good gear in the hope that you avoid these sorts of problems. Freinds Improved Production Torana had a damaged crank after only 2 laps when problem was noticed. Motor had only turned 8 laps total from new.
Few improvements on the cards while it's apart? Come on you know you want too.
Hope all goes well with the re-assemble.
#58
_torana_
Posted 20 October 2006 - 05:21 PM
Maybe the geardrive wasnt getting enough oil and has ground itself away, contaminating the oil, you thinking about going to a timing chain instead?Now.. the problem that this has caused is a fair bit of crap right through the oiling system, which in turn has hammered the bearings. Now luckily ( so far) it doesnt look like theres any damage to the crank, but a few of the main bearings are the worse for wear!
Were also taking out the gear drive, because it seems it's caused a problem. But i'll let you know more about that once ive confirmed whats happened.
cheers julian
#59
_Lostit_
Posted 20 October 2006 - 07:18 PM
Cant wait to see the new beast in action ) .
Denis
#60
Posted 21 October 2006 - 10:39 AM
Turns out i found the cam bushing in the bottom of the timing cover

MRNOS: Naaaah... not at this stage mate! To be honest i want ( need) to get the car back ASAP so there's not alot i want to do to it! (well.. thats a LIE... but theres not alot i can afford to do to it right now!)
makka: Not a chance mate

Hatchman: Your right mate.. Definitely good news bad news! THe good news is i listened to my gut instinct ( and the great people on here who were kind enought o give me advise) and NOT "just drive it" with low oil pressure! THeb ad news is.. the little i DID drive it has caused a bit of damage.
To be honest.. the bearings COULD go back in if they were cleaned up... BUT i'm not the kind of person to do that!! I need to know that it's spot on to the best we can possibly make it otherwise i drive myself nuts!!
Torana: I had a good look at the gear drive ( from what i could see under the timing cover) and it looked ok.. The particles look like theyre from the pickup and bearing metal!!.. But the part we found was teh cam bush.. so i dont know how the hell that can come out, but ive had enough of risking it with teh gear drive.. so it's coming out!
Lostit: Yeah i know mate.. i told you at the time you were right.. and you were! BUt ive only just really gotten the shits with it all bad enough to DO it

And i'm just really glad i found Mark at Eze-10s Performance who's doing the right thing by me and the engine. Honestly i couldnt have picked a better mechanic!!
Cheers guys! Will keep you updated!
#61
Posted 21 October 2006 - 10:45 AM
#62
Posted 21 October 2006 - 10:59 AM
I did like the gear drive noise.. but not to the point of killing my engine for it

I have seen these belt drive setups, but to be honest... A rollmaster timing chain set ( dobule row) will do for my engine no hassle! By the time i buy one of the jesel style drives.. i can have my rollmaster AND a new cam!
Cheers mate

#63
_[BOTTLEDUP]_
Posted 21 October 2006 - 01:09 PM
Personally I'm not a big fan of geardrives, especially the single gear Milodon style ones. Even on our 700+ race engines we use Rollmaster timing chain sets. Tiny I strongly advise spending the little extra and getting one with Nitrided gears, it will last a whole heap longer.
Make sure you get a 4340 forged crank if it does need replacing, keep away from the cast stuff, regardless of brand. You can get a 400 Chev 4340 Eagle crank for around the $900 mark nowadays.
Don't worry about stroking it, your next purchase when you decide to lash out should be for a set of AFR 210cc ali's...

#64
Posted 21 October 2006 - 01:13 PM

I was under the impression that rollmaster make about the best timing chain sets? I also know that my block as been tunnel bored, so i would also need an oversize crank gear?
The Kiwi -Pro Lighting 220cc cast heads should be capable of sustaining any power i decide to run through this thing...Especially forced induction

I'll keep that in mind regarding the cranks too. I'm hopeful that it wont come to that, but if it does i'll be in touch!
Cheers

#65
_[BOTTLEDUP]_
Posted 21 October 2006 - 02:49 PM

#66
Posted 21 October 2006 - 02:54 PM
DO you have any idea how long rollmaster take to make and deliver an oversize set? Especially nitrided?
Cheers mate!
#67
Posted 21 October 2006 - 02:58 PM
Looking forward to seeing you at WSID soon (I've seen Mark there the last couple of times I've been.)
Good luck with it !!
#68
Posted 26 October 2006 - 10:24 AM
Thanks for that struggler, ( didnt see your reply till now mate!! sorry!)
Ive got a bit more news and it looks like bottledup was right!! i've ordered a scat 4340 forged crank for it as no 1 pin was pretty badly scored. The crank guy reckons it *might* clean up at a .20 grind, but i dont really want to take it that far!
So i decided to go for the new crank, and that way i can be certain its good, and i know its a good basis should i decide to chase more power down the track.
Dave: please dont give me any other advise... So far everything youve mentioned has needed doing!

Apparently the timing set isnt a problem, so i'm very happy with that, so yeah! things are moving along with it.
Dont expect to see me here too often.. I'm going to be busy working... to pay for all this stuff!! HAHAH!!
Cheers guys!
#69
Posted 26 October 2006 - 07:40 PM
Personally I would have no problem grinding the rod journals to 020 or even 030 under. That is nowhere near SJ pin size, and less surface area means less friction, which means more HP !!Hey guys!
Ive got a bit more news and it looks like bottledup was right!! i've ordered a scat 4340 forged crank for it as no 1 pin was pretty badly scored. The crank guy reckons it *might* clean up at a .20 grind, but i dont really want to take it that far!
So i decided to go for the new crank, and that way i can be certain its good, and i know its a good basis should i decide to chase more power down the track.
FWIW my 350 crank is 030 under on the rods.
I guess you can't put a price on peace of mind. Is the current crank a stock 400 one ?
#70
_CHOPPER_
Posted 26 October 2006 - 07:53 PM
If in doubt, throw it out.
#71
Posted 27 October 2006 - 10:46 AM
As you said, it *might* be ok at 20 under and i fully understand what youve said about the less surface area, but to be honest i dont want to open this bottom end again in a hurry and this way at least i will know that ive got a good bit of gear. As you said, what price for peace of mind!
The only thing that wont have been changed is the conrods... They are still std chev rods, but theyve been beam polished, crack tested and shotpeened after being balanced so they should cope perfectly with the abuse i'll dish out.. Simply cause its not going to rev past about 7 grand!
Chop: Thats it mate.. Unfortunately thats my belief to a large degree for the peace of mind, but it gets expensive!!
Cheers!
#72
_[BOTTLEDUP]_
Posted 27 October 2006 - 09:16 PM
I agree 100% tho, I will not compromise on any component that goes into an engine I build. Call it peace of mind or good insurance, I'd prefer a new (and much better) crank for what they cost these days.
#73
Posted 28 October 2006 - 05:27 PM
The way i look at it is that as you said its peace of mind, good insurance AND extra capacity for if and when i want to step it up a bit more!
I now know that the crank i will have is the best value for money strength items i can get, and that the rest of the combo can handle "x" sorts of power and rev levels safely. Nitrous or blower is always a possiblity in the future and at least now i know ive got a good basis of the engine! ( also inclusing the crank, Oil Pump, Pickup and sump!)
Cheers

#74
Posted 28 October 2006 - 08:00 PM
Can't wait to catch up again when you guy's are back over,
Dave
#75
Posted 28 October 2006 - 11:04 PM
Well.. I'm hoping that mark from EZE-10s will have it back up and running again within weeks! He wants to get it done so that the cars not sitting around as well!
So yeah, it's defintiely sooner rather than later! And pretty well as soon as its ready i'll be taking it for a few laps of WSID!
We'll DEFINITLY catch up mate! Keep an eye on the forum!!
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