Project Goat
#26 _evil UC hatch_
Posted 09 August 2012 - 08:10 PM
#27 _Holden89nut_
Posted 09 August 2012 - 08:14 PM
#28 _UCV80_
Posted 10 August 2012 - 09:26 PM
#29 _SLR Goat_
Posted 10 September 2012 - 06:44 PM
- Redid some wiring as as previous effort looked messy and crap moved my MSD6AL from the engine bay to the glovebox bent up some ally sheet and mounted the msd box and the thermo fan relays on that
- Redid the dash layout as i wasnt happy with how the previous owener had painted everything plus had screw holes drilled everywhere and just looked shithouse picked up a uncut dash from local wrecker cleaned it up crash pad is a little warped on one side but its not a show car so it will be fine for now just got to finish the shifter cover and a couple of more wiring bits and thats all done
- Mounted the thermo fans to the radiator its a tight fit between the fans and catch can and gilmer belt but should be fine ive wired them up on a sensor so they will switch on at 185F and off at 165F also have fitted a manual overide switch tested the fans shouldnt have any problems with cooling
- Had issues with a carter fuel pump and supplier is giving me the run around so i ended up going back to a holley blue have it mounted besides the fuel tank i cut a hole in the boot floor so it sits up a little higher
- The bonnet is currently at a panel shop having a 4 inch reverse cowl scoop fitted and painted also have some SLR door mirrors being painted aswell
#30 _L32M20_
Posted 10 September 2012 - 06:52 PM
#31 _T0rana_
Posted 10 September 2012 - 10:04 PM
#32 _SLR Goat_
Posted 22 September 2012 - 01:53 PM
Have also
- fixed the the stripped thread on one of the transmission crossmember bolts so its now bolted on properly
- shifter cover has being trimmed and fitted
- painted the thermo fan shroud to match the manifold and tappet covers etc
Aiming to have to it drivable by november and get some slicks and trailer it to the drags for a while before i rego it for the street
Edited by SLR Goat, 22 September 2012 - 01:54 PM.
#33 _SLR Goat_
Posted 23 October 2012 - 07:58 PM
#34 _SLR Goat_
Posted 23 January 2013 - 08:42 PM
#35 _SLR Goat_
Posted 15 February 2013 - 05:20 PM
Also picked up this setup which im going to fit after i have got all i can out of the current setup
#36 _SLR Goat_
Posted 19 April 2014 - 03:33 PM
Time for a update have had it modplated and regoed for the last year without any big issues major things i have done are
-Had to get a new nine inch housing and axles made for it the one that came with the car has some major faults now has a altra 9 housing 28 spline billet axles 4.11 minispooled centre
-Changed the wheels from draglites to prostars 15x5 front 15x8 rears kept the rear draglites for drag radials
Have done about 30 passes down the strip with a best time so far of 11.84@117mph no bad for a 308 with b cast heads currently the trimatic is out getting built properly after finding out the last guy who did it didnt do anything apart from drilling a couple of holes in the valvebody also fitting a 5k converter shop converter to suit the combo better
http://www.dragphoto...ff5f97#h3ff5f97
http://www.dragphoto...4053c#h36a4053c
Edited by SLR Goat, 19 April 2014 - 03:34 PM.
#37
Posted 19 April 2014 - 11:28 PM
You must be Pumped Dennis.
Very Nice looking Torana you have there. Dave I
#38 _SLR Goat_
Posted 19 April 2014 - 11:55 PM
cheers mate hopefully with a good built trimatic and converter ill see some improvement on the ET
#39
Posted 20 April 2014 - 08:13 PM
The converter swap will pick it up some, 117 MPH should be good for a 11.4.
Keep up the good work !
#40 _judgelj_
Posted 21 April 2014 - 01:05 PM
Nothing beats a silver motor.
#41 _SLR Goat_
Posted 24 April 2014 - 07:02 PM
Cheers for the replies hoping for good results with the converter swap and a better performing trimatic still a few other things i want to try aswell quest to go quicker never seems to end
#42 _TJ355_
Posted 08 May 2014 - 08:39 PM
Looks good lots of fun to come!
#43 _Lazarus_
Posted 08 May 2014 - 09:01 PM
Very nice indeed. That front-on shot looks awesome.
I want to make some alloy chequer plate door trims. Could you give me any advice on thickness please ?
#44
Posted 08 May 2014 - 09:39 PM
I would say the thinnest Ally Checker plate possible Mark
#45 _SLR Goat_
Posted 11 May 2014 - 08:02 PM
ally is 2mm thick having a bead rolled line helps keep it from flexing and vibrating i think
Update in the process of putting the rebuilt trimatic and new converter in i found i had about 2-3mm end float in the crank motor out looks like thrust has chewed out on the flexplate side taking some of the crank edge with it
1 step forward 2 steps back lol
Looks good lots of fun to come!
Hey mate hows your torana coming along
#46
Posted 12 May 2014 - 07:35 AM
Nasty.
Usually it is the torque converter that causes this, let us know how you go.
#47 _SLR Goat_
Posted 12 May 2014 - 04:41 PM
thats what ive being told from several people there was clearance between the flexplate and the old converter also think i have a issue with the new converter seems to sit further back in the box and when pulling forward onto the flexplate i feel it might cause issues with oil pump engagement about 8mm gap between the flexplate and converter bolt up face when the converter is pushed all the way into the gearbox
#48 _SLR Goat_
Posted 24 May 2014 - 08:47 AM
Pulled the engine down thrust bearing chewed out crank is now a good doorstop have another crank ready to go just need to order new rings bearings and get it all balanced have being told it failed due to the converter pushing forward but not 100% sold on it front of the thrust bearing had a mark on it which has me thinking the cap or bearing may have not being fitted square anyway hopefully get it all back together and see how it goes with the new converter and a trimatic that is working better
#49
Posted 24 May 2014 - 10:30 AM
Wow, that is messy !
I would say definitely the converter. It has only been forced forward, not moving front to rear.
The wear on the forward face of the thrust is minimal but still does make it look like the cap is crooked, even if it is only a couple of thou.
This could be because the bearing was distorting under pressure and the cap was flexing forward.
If the cap does not fit in the register tightly then I would be thinking about another block.
Also give some thought to knocking out the cam bearings and hot tanking the block. All that ground cast iron has to go somewhere !
#50 _SLR Goat_
Posted 24 May 2014 - 10:50 AM
Was hoping you would reply mate yeah will be hot tanking it cam bearings need replacing aswell abit too much clearance which explains why the oil pressure was lower then normal grinds mark on the block didnt touch the other main bearings so should be able to clean up the edges block was tunnel bored and honed and caps where knurled on the edges when built first time will do some checks and measuring when i out the replacement crank in see whats what
Cheers for you advice much appreciated mate
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