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Supercharged 202 UC

Started by _Brad1979UC_ , Mar 02 2009 11:43 PM

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56 replies to this topic

#26 MRLXSS

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Name:Matt
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Posted 30 April 2009 - 08:38 AM

Looking good mate, can't wait to see it all going!

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#27 _youngy_11_

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 12:03 PM

Yeah mate looks great. I want to hook one up to my V6 one day.

Cheers

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#28 orangeLJ

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 12:11 PM

better off going the eaton route for the V6 youngy, the toyota blower kits for the V6 are a it useless really.

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#29 _youngy_11_

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 12:27 PM

Is eaton S/C the top mount type found on VT's?

My engine is a VP 3.8. So I wouldn't be able to fit the eaton one.

Why are they useless?

I have seen some figures of 180-200rwkw with a SC 14 on a VP motor.

Cheers

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#30 orangeLJ

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 12:41 PM

Ive heard more bad things about the SC14 to V6 then I have good things.

There is a factory S/C valley manifold to suit Buick V6

there is even a whole range of aftermarket manifolds available in the US aswell from memory.

I looked into it all when I had my VR commodore and had the pipe dream of going S/C on it

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#31 _TJ253_

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 03:27 PM

Looking awsome cant wait to see when its done and hear what it goes like keep up the good work

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#32 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 04:03 PM

Ok guys got some work down last weekend. mounted the blower all in, i got a new bottom rrad hose, its longer and has a coil in it to stop collapsing and i can move it away from the blower so that its not poking into the hose. Also i put in a new thermostat housing as the one i had had a bolt in the top blocking off the emmisions stuff, and i got one without so that ive got more clearance to the bonnet as the piping will run over the top of the thermostat.

I got the belt and hooked it up to make sure it will be ok, here's a video i took this arvo with mounted, not hooked up to the intake in any way yet, hopefully it will quieten down once its plumbed up..

have a listen

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#33 rodomo

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 06:12 PM

Getting there! :spoton:

I suggest you replace the top bracket bolt at the thermostat housing with a stud that has a shank that bottoms out in the thermostat housing. (Like how a manifold stud fits to the side of a head).
Stud, t/stat outlet, washer, nut, washer, bracket, washer, nut.

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#34 _Torrie_Man_

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 06:15 PM

sounds good mate. those little chargers can be tough as nuts if set up right!

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#35 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 06:52 PM

Cheers guys,

so rodomo you think there's a possibility of that top thermostat housing bolt snapping? Would the stud be for strength purposes? its a fairly thick bracket so it does take a bit away from the amount that that bolt screws into the housing

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#36 rodomo

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 06:58 PM

Cheers guys,

so rodomo you think there's a possibility of that top thermostat housing bolt snapping? Would the stud be for strength purposes? its a fairly thick bracket so it does take a bit away from the amount that that bolt screws into the housing

I'm thinking that the bolt would keep coming loose due to vibration.
You need a stud with a shank so the shank bottoms out in the thread and is tight to the t/stat housing.

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#37 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 11:07 PM

Ok piping is done!!
heres how she looks
im V happy!!

Only thing it wont start :(......

n/a its still fine, so after some pondering and a bit of a look online we put it down to the carby, that the metering rod will have to be changed/modified. Im going to call up gas place tomoro and see what they reckon. Should have some free time friday morning.

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#38 _Squarepants_

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Posted 07 May 2009 - 12:09 AM

Nice work! :clap:

That's pretty sweet! I've got a mate with one of those chargers on a VN wagon with the 6 or 7 pound pulley (I can't remember what he's done as he's always messing around with it..) That new pipework looks the business. Best of luck getting it started and running right. Looks like it's gonna be a bit of a weapon! :gun:

Nice work brother! :spoton:

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#39 _doogs_

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Posted 07 May 2009 - 10:56 AM

Nice setup man,
Keen to see some more vids when its out on the road.

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#40 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 07 May 2009 - 11:20 AM

Thanks alot guys.

Talked to the gas place today and basically i need to run positive pressure into the gas converter. An n/a engine normally just sucks gas through the converter and into the caby and engine etc. As it stands now the blower is most likely pushing the gas back into the converter hence the car getting no gas. There is a mesh cover on top of the converter which i will need to take off then there is a thread in which i need to put a hose adaptor into so that i can run it into the intake piping so that it 'pushes' the gas through. There was also something else that i needed to back off the mixture otherwise it would be too rich on decel, ill have to have a chat tomoro. Also need to cable tie or equivalent the progression and mixture hoses on the GRA carby down as on boost they can pop off.

-b

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#41 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 08 May 2009 - 01:34 PM

Ok just a quik reply,
i plumbed positive pressure into the converter and with it all plumbed up it finally starts. I had it hooked up without the vac line on the BOV (Bov is open when vac is on, i think it needs adjustment, but not really needed for 15 seconds of idling) and basically seems to idle and then when i run it for bout 15 sec the shut it off....you can see smoke coming from the blower pulley, and its damn hot!!:S!! This doesnt happen when the blower is running without the piping! blower is not hot. Pipes are not hot either, blower seems to work fine without the piping.

Kinda got me stumped.... hmmm! ideas?

Edited by Brad1979UC, 08 May 2009 - 01:34 PM.

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#42 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 08 May 2009 - 01:50 PM

The blower is a positive displacement device, in other words it'll always be trying to pump the same amount of air per rev. Because your system is blow-thru, when the throttle is closed or nearly closed (like at idle and cruise) the blower is dead headed or trying to pump against a massive restriction. This is why the belt is slipping and the pulley is getting hot. A simple BOV is the wrong way to go, it will maintain pressure and be horribly inefficient. The simplest solution is probably just to fit a second throttle butterfly on the blower inlet synchronised with the carb. butterfly. Under closed throttle conditions the blower will then be simply free-wheeling but when you open the throttle(s) you will have all the available boost.

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#43 orangeLJ

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Posted 08 May 2009 - 02:29 PM

Bypass valve

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#44 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 08 May 2009 - 05:54 PM

I've never used one of the little Toyota blowers, do they have an integral bypass valve? The hot pulley could have been from clutch slip rather than belt slip and would be something to keep an eye on once it's running properly.

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#45 orangeLJ

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Posted 08 May 2009 - 09:36 PM

I thought he swapped out the pulley for a fixed pulley? thus removing the clutched system?

Check the tension on your belt, if its too tight it would be causing some dramas aswell.

The toyota ones dont run a bypass valve AFAIK, so it may be a good investment, but it should still run good enough without it.

The blow off valve should work though, try hooking it all up properly and then giving it a run.

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#46 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 09 May 2009 - 01:07 AM

Yea its a fixed pulley so it has no clutch. The belt isnt too tight but cant go any looser otherwise it gets too flabby on the other side of the blower pulley. They dont seem to have a bypass. Oldjohnno i know what you mean but i think something isnt set properly more likely as even the SC14 kits for the 3.8L commo V6's blow through before the throttle, people do mod them so they are after the butterfly n it quietens them down but you can run these into a closed butterfly and use BOV.

I have seen this setup before, actaully on a UC torana in street machine a year or so ago, [REVNUC], its intercooled and running more boost. But He is also using a BOV
Posted Image

(nice UC i love that article =D)

Though my BOV is a cheapie, it doesnt open all the way and seems quite hard to actuate with thumbs, got nothing to test it against so i presume thats what they're like?

If im still stumped i might even give prochoice automotive a call, he's obviously done it before looking at his setup and done it well so might have some ideas also

Edited by Brad1979UC, 09 May 2009 - 01:08 AM.

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#47 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 09 May 2009 - 07:22 AM

A BOV is an extemely crude and inefficient way to do it. Sure, it'll stop the blower from stalling out but at less than full throttle it's also gonna be wasting horsepower and fuel for nothing. I know other people have used BOVs and it sorta kinda works but really you can do much, much better...

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#48 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 12:50 AM

Yea i understand clearly now.....why run the blower at full load all the time when you dont need to?? Well i want to get it going first then once im not happy with it again ill go on a further grunt hunt and try and get it running more efficiently, i see how a butterfly before the s/c would work, makes sense

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#49 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 10:06 AM

Yea i understand clearly now.....why run the blower at full load all the time when you dont need to?? Well i want to get it going first then once im not happy with it again ill go on a further grunt hunt and try and get it running more efficiently, i see how a butterfly before the s/c would work, makes sense

Another way to do it would be to use a BOV/by-pass valve that was actuated by manifold vacuum picked up from a point downstream from the LPG carb butterfly (vacuum to open obviously). It would still unload the blower at idle and cruise and might be a little easier to set up.
I'd spend the extra day or so to get this set up now, it'll make a big difference to how it drives. Don't forget to make the exhaust system biggish (minimum 2-1/2", even 3") as with say 10psi boost the 202 will be flowing as much as a 310-320 cu. in. engine. You won't want or need much spark advance (mid 20's?) either. Set it up right and you'll be heaps faster than old mates 13.4..
Nice car BTW, I know we're in the minority but I love the look of UC's..

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#50 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 10:25 AM

Just re-read your posts and realized thats what you have now. D'oh! Just connect the BOV's vacuum line to the manifold and it should work. Probably be noisy though..