Holy crap... standard track is 1405mm and yours is 1835mm according to the wheel alignment figures above... that's 435mm or 17 inches over standard!
That can't be right can it?
Posted 04 January 2015 - 10:50 AM
Holy crap... standard track is 1405mm and yours is 1835mm according to the wheel alignment figures above... that's 435mm or 17 inches over standard!
That can't be right can it?
Posted 04 January 2015 - 12:22 PM
Posted 19 January 2015 - 05:55 PM
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:27 PM.
Posted 20 January 2015 - 06:18 AM
The type of gear oil you are using can also cause "clash" problems. I went through 5 different oils in the Muncie before I found one that would let me to power shift, currently using a Fuchs TO4 transmission oil.
Posted 20 January 2015 - 10:33 AM
Posted 21 January 2015 - 06:00 AM
As you may already know, a synchro is actually a brake & most synthetic oils are too "slippery" to allow the synchro to do it's job when the shifts get quicker. An oil that meets GL4 appears to work in my box not GL5.
Posted 21 January 2015 - 07:30 AM
Posted 21 January 2015 - 08:40 AM
In most of my vehicles I just used shell Rimular X 15w40 engine oil, never had a ounce of problem, even used it in Eaton 18speed gearboxes over the last 30 years with engine torque up as high as 2,050ft pounds. In my Tremec transmissions I use auto trans fluid dextron 3 or equivalent.
Posted 21 January 2015 - 08:33 PM
Yep I had the same issue with mine. They told me they had fixed them and I got one of the old design - now I'm not so convinced.I was assured that it would fit without machining. So of course, it didn't. The case is bulkier than a standard one and fouls the pinion gear, necessitating the end of the pinion to be machined down a little. Apparently this is a known issue (!), also with the likes of the Kaaz LSDs too.
Edited by Heath, 21 January 2015 - 08:33 PM.
Posted 22 January 2015 - 01:38 PM
Posted 28 February 2015 - 06:30 AM
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:28 PM.
Posted 28 February 2015 - 08:00 AM
Posted 28 February 2015 - 08:37 PM
Posted 01 May 2015 - 01:40 PM
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:29 PM.
Posted 01 May 2015 - 01:50 PM
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:30 PM.
Posted 01 May 2015 - 03:11 PM
Posted 01 May 2015 - 03:27 PM
Posted 01 May 2015 - 09:35 PM
I see a few posts up that your TB is similar to or the same as the Holley TB I have just gotten running a few weeks ago.
Does yours have a rear throttle stop screw to set the closed position?
I ask as mine did not come with one and I found that after the first time the engine was up to operating temp and let cool down that the rear throttle plates caught in the throttle bores.
My solution was to remake the rear throttle arm to include an additional arm that now has a cap screw and lock nut to be able to set the closed position to stop it catching again. The stop screw rests against the press fit pin that the rear return spring rests against.
I can provide a pic if needed.
Edited by mick_in_oz, 01 May 2015 - 09:36 PM.
Posted 02 May 2015 - 07:19 AM
Hope these help.
Posted 02 May 2015 - 07:34 AM
Nice work. The flare solution looks the ticket. I think big wheels look a lot better when the guards shroud the top of the tyre.
Cheers
Posted 02 May 2015 - 07:44 AM
Posted 02 May 2015 - 07:51 AM
You would be disappointed when its not loaded up, the top of the tyre is about level with the bottom of the flare - big gaps look a bit ugly but personally I don't really like the tyre being tucked up either.I think big wheels look a lot better when the guards shroud the top of the tyre.
Posted 02 May 2015 - 09:10 AM
Loving your work mate. The diff, the manifold, the wheel arch. Every time I check this thread something impressive has been done.
Posted 02 May 2015 - 07:02 PM
You will love the reliabilty of injection. I am so glad I went that way. Very similar set up to mine. And I am only running a VN AC Delco computer with tune. It handles my 450hp now worries.
Posted 14 May 2015 - 09:57 AM
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:31 PM.
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