SS Hatch
#201
Posted 19 August 2014 - 10:05 PM
#202
Posted 26 August 2014 - 04:50 PM
So I hatched a plan to build a new bracket that pivoted on the head so the reservoir mounting is fixed in relation to the pump. I also realised that the pump casting allows for the inlet to be on either side, so I machined it through to the top and removed the original tube from the bottom and blocked that hole off.
Made a new reservoir outlet with an o-ring groove and mounted it atop the new bracket so it slides straight into the pump inlet, similar to a VN V6.
The new bracket is stronger and everything is a bit neater too. Hopefully no more leaks!
Have to deal with the water pump pulley next - the toothed belt is limited from too much back/forward movement by the alternator pulley which is the only one that has raised edges, so the belt doesn't come off the pulleys. Ever since I put the belt drive on, the belt has run at the front of the alternator pulley, so when I installed a later model long water pump which pushed the pulley forward I wasn't concerned about it. As you can see in these photos now it has suddenly started running the belt at the rear edge so the belt is a few mm off the back of the pulley...! Just need to make something up to move the water pump pulley back a bit again.
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:23 PM.
#203
Posted 26 August 2014 - 09:13 PM
Nice work as usual - you seem to be able to find a way around any problem.
#204
Posted 26 August 2014 - 09:53 PM
another great engineering Task completed SS.
With the water pump:-
can you just press the fan support holder boss into the correct position,
it's just a slight press fit on the shaft, and cut the shaft back to suit.
Edited by GASPOWER, 26 August 2014 - 09:56 PM.
#205
Posted 27 August 2014 - 06:51 AM
The flange on the water pump does just press onto the shaft but it probably wouldn't go any more than a mm or two further back before it hits the outer seal. Plan A is to find a chunk of metal around 15-20mm thick to make a new pulley hub, chop the centre out of the existing pulley so it slides back over the flange and screw the two together.
#206 _LS1 Hatch_
Posted 27 August 2014 - 10:51 AM
Gilmer drive stuff is used for oil pump drives, etc, etc as well so might be a little bit of variety out there for the water pump pulleys?
#207
Posted 27 August 2014 - 04:37 PM
#208 _LS1 Hatch_
Posted 28 August 2014 - 12:49 AM
But good deal you have it nearly all worked out now !
#209
Posted 28 August 2014 - 04:35 PM
This will sort it
Just need to paint it black :-)
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:24 PM.
#210
Posted 30 August 2014 - 04:59 PM
Steering rack is back in, have installed the new upper ball joints (I like these Moog parts, they have proper steel self locking nuts). Just have to install the new bushes and ball joints in the lower arms and reassemble, after starting it and double-checking for any leaks... only the battery is flat... :-/
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:24 PM.
#211
Posted 31 August 2014 - 06:41 PM
Got a bit sidetracked with other stuff today so only managed to swap bushing and ball joint on one lower arm - this is roughly where the offset one will be clocked, to pull the front of the arm inboard a bit
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:24 PM.
#212 _LHSL308_
Posted 31 August 2014 - 11:00 PM
Nice work mate. I have been told by a few reputable mechanics not to touch a gilmer belt drive, have you used one before?
#213
Posted 01 September 2014 - 07:02 AM
http://www.gmh-toran...ve/#entry693738
They are mostly just for looks, to get the belt to whine much with the square tooth profile requires over tightening it to the point of destroying alternator and water pump bearings which is where I think most people go wrong. Others just don't like them because they figure its too much wank factor which is a personal thing, I feel the same about too much chrome
I wouldn't buy another at the current prices but I'm happy with the current setup while it remains problem free.
#214 _LHSL308_
Posted 01 September 2014 - 10:02 AM
Thanks mate good advice there. I think i'll stick to the whine from my gearbox instead, albeit it's a little hard to hear with my setup.
#215
Posted 02 September 2014 - 05:04 PM
Initial measurements for wheel alignment are promising, although I'd like to try to get them a touch more even if possible (or at least favour the left rather than right).
Left camber: -0.5 degrees
Left caster: +6.4 degrees
Right camber: -0.6 degrees
Right caster: +6.6 degrees
Not bad for a Torana
#216
Posted 02 September 2014 - 05:53 PM
Great Job SS,
Mine use to bend the bottom shocky mounting plate where your great clamps are,
and bust out, as they are an open slot, you have now given us some hope in fixing this problem.,
or install stronger non-slotted mounting plates.
The gas mono-tube shocky's I used, took 80kgs to move down at 1mm per second,
so when giving the Torana a hiding, the shocky would be dangling below the control arm, ha ha.
Ever since I put the Bilstein dampers in, they keep wanting to shuffle over to one side of the bottom mount and rub against the edge of the hole in the lower control arm. Not really a big deal but it bugged me, so I made some extra brackets (now black, paint currently drying)
#217
Posted 02 September 2014 - 09:24 PM
Final alignment for first test drive
Left camber: -0.6 degrees
Left caster: +6.45 degrees
Right camber: -0.6 degrees
Right caster: +6.58 degrees
Toe in: 1mm
Basically the negative camber has been cut in half and the caster has increased by just over 1 degree. I have a little adjustment left on the camber to play with if needed. Wheels still have full clearance lock to lock.
#218
Posted 02 September 2014 - 09:36 PM
That's an improvement having holes and no slots, thank's.
and sound's very good how you are measuring the angle differences
#219
Posted 03 September 2014 - 07:45 AM
I've got a three legged plate thing which sits flat against the wheel and has a laser pointer mounted on it, and has a flat spot for the digital angle finder. This is enough to measure camber with the angle finder, and toe using a tape measure and the laser pointer. Caster can be calculated using two camber measurements at the same wheel angle turned left and right; I have a fixed 20 degree angle which sits on the floor and line it up using the laser pointer again. Also made some basic wheel turning plates using two flat circles of alloy plate with a pivot and grease between them.
Its a bit slow and its not super duper accurate (not bad though), but it allows me to spend whatever time I need to tweak and adjust things to my satisfaction. Also nice not to have to work around a hot engine/exhaust.
As you can see from the caster calcs the difference between left and right is basically the margin of error
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:25 PM.
#220
Posted 03 September 2014 - 06:27 PM
Fantastic work there SS.
and you have also nutted all this out, so it works.
#221
Posted 09 September 2014 - 10:03 PM
Not as simple as I had hoped; its a standard master cylinder body but has a stepped stainless sleeve so the primary bore is 1.125" while the secondary is still 1". The larger piston had seals with some unknown part numbers, and the main seal had been butchered to fit the groove. Thanks to Dattoman who gave me some measurements and part numbers for PBR seals to suit, and machined the piston groove out a bit to suit the new main seal, which I'm sure will last longer than the old one.
Before
After (notice the wider seal at right)
Also finally got around to making up a pressure bleeder, I should have done this years ago, makes bleeding so much easier!
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:26 PM.
#222
Posted 21 September 2014 - 08:51 AM
#223
Posted 21 September 2014 - 09:19 AM
The new one is slightly smaller so it fits between the radiator and the battery but still holds around 800mL which is just enough. Now the recovery cap works as intended and the radiator stays full :-)
Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:26 PM.
#224
Posted 21 September 2014 - 10:24 AM
These make handy gearbox/diff filleruperers too.
#225
Posted 04 January 2015 - 08:56 AM
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