
UC Torana
#51
Posted 16 May 2009 - 02:55 PM
#52
_426_
Posted 26 May 2009 - 06:25 PM

Still got start up issues, the engine wont fire up unless I put a little fuel down the carby, but once its warmed up it starts like a charm first time.
#53
Posted 26 May 2009 - 10:07 PM
#54
_426_
Posted 27 May 2009 - 06:30 PM
A quick carby swap fixed it a charm.
Every step fowards seems to show a few steps back.
The drum cylinders need to be replaced. Good fun.
The exhaust is shot so i'll be replacing it.
Still gotta replace most of the lenses which will be pricey.
Just lloking forwards to driving it.

#55
Posted 27 May 2009 - 08:19 PM
Lenses can be cheap, and sometimes they don't matter too much either. Look around before buying new
Drum cylinders... yeah the moment they sit for a while, they just go like that. Cheap and a pain in the arse. You can't get a relaxed roadworthy?
#56
_426_
Posted 27 May 2009 - 08:46 PM
Yeah I can get a relaxed roady but I'm happy to this by the book. These guys only pick me up on real safety issues.
Tail lenses aren't too expensive but the indy/parker lenses seem to be a real stinger.
The drum cylinders look a hassle. Not sure when i'll get time to change them though, going to get another 2 Valiants this weekend.

#57
_426_
Posted 10 June 2009 - 06:13 PM

Replaced the rear brake cylinders too.
The Bird will be getting a new exhaust next week... 2 1/5" with a resrictor to help with back pressure.
Not sure when an 8 will be going in though as I may not be getting my fluffy after all. May just have to chase up a 308.
Now all I need are the lences and a rear seat belt.
#58
_426_
Posted 22 June 2009 - 08:49 PM
Got the pipe on, got the permit and i've finally got to drive the Torana.

#59
Posted 23 June 2009 - 10:38 AM
#60
_426_
Posted 23 June 2009 - 07:21 PM
Firstly the horn keeps sound if you aply preasure to the steering wheel while turning,
The box is a mess making it quit hard to get gears,
There's a dry sounds coming from the drive train, possibly low diff oil
But mostly my attention was set on the temp gauge which was going crazy with high readings... probably bad comunication between the sensor and the gauge.
That said, the pipe sound great, especially in the cable and the engine runs like a charm.

#61
Posted 23 June 2009 - 07:55 PM
Obviously check the diff oil level, maybe carrier bearings/axle bearings? Might just be rough brake drums? But unlikely
Have you got a filter in the cooling system? First thing I did before I drove mine was cut up some plastic gauze and fit it over the part of the top tank on the radiator, where the top hose slides on. Do a few kms with that in, flush it, do the same again, flush it. I've got no temp gauge, but it's pretty easy to smell overheating... and cars normally run on if there are big overheating problems. Unless you have an idle lock-off solenoid, then it will probably die when you turn it off regardless.
Cheers
#62
_evil UC hatch_
Posted 23 June 2009 - 08:03 PM
#63
Posted 23 June 2009 - 08:09 PM
I miss the mousewhen using a 4cyl Dash with a 6cyl motor the water temp and oil pressure guages will read incorrectly, mine was always reading off the scale but never had any real dramas.

#64
_evil UC hatch_
Posted 23 June 2009 - 08:13 PM
I miss the mouse
he went a little loopy lol
#65
Posted 23 June 2009 - 08:58 PM
when using a 4cyl Dash with a 6cyl motor the water temp and oil pressure guages will read incorrectly, mine was always reading off the scale but never had any real dramas.
is there an easy fix for the temp gauge?
#66
Posted 23 June 2009 - 09:05 PM
#67
_evil UC hatch_
Posted 23 June 2009 - 09:06 PM
is there an easy fix for the temp gauge?
in all honesty I dont know, unure if using the starfire senders will fix it, I never bothered looking into it
#68
_426_
Posted 23 June 2009 - 09:09 PM
Clutch cable tight enough? Check gearbox fluid too; may have lost a fair bit in removal/storage/transport. I have heard very good things about a certain additive you can put into a gearbox to improve things. Would you like me to find out about it?
Obviously check the diff oil level, maybe carrier bearings/axle bearings? Might just be rough brake drums? But unlikely
Have you got a filter in the cooling system? First thing I did before I drove mine was cut up some plastic gauze and fit it over the part of the top tank on the radiator, where the top hose slides on. Do a few kms with that in, flush it, do the same again, flush it. I've got no temp gauge, but it's pretty easy to smell overheating... and cars normally run on if there are big overheating problems. Unless you have an idle lock-off solenoid, then it will probably die when you turn it off regardless.
Cheers
Will doing all the things you've listed... basicly going over everything.
Yeah Im keen to hear about this aditive.
'The coolant filter idea sound like a good one, next coolant change I'll give it a go.
when using a 4cyl Dash with a 6cyl motor the water temp and oil pressure guages will read incorrectly, mine was always reading off the scale but never had any real dramas.
Yeah this is where I believe the issue is, as everything else is right on. Good coolant, good flow, good preasure ..now, good timing. The only thing that suggests a high temp is the guage and I figure temp range between a UC Starfire and VC/VB 202.
I do have a sports cluster so might give that a go.

#69
_426_
Posted 27 June 2009 - 09:39 PM
in all honesty I dont know, unure if using the starfire senders will fix it, I never bothered looking into it
Well it would appear that it doesn't.
I replaced the 202 120c sensor with the starfire 150c sensor... same results. Hot reading.
#70
_evil UC hatch_
Posted 28 June 2009 - 12:10 PM
although before getting that far it might be worth starting a thread asking if there is a way to get the 4 cyl one working properly
#71
Posted 28 June 2009 - 01:23 PM
#72
_keitho5770_
Posted 28 June 2009 - 08:19 PM
Yeah that's the only visual difference I believe, but the tachos can't switch between different numbers of cylinders like the LH/LX one *grrrr*
thats great i just bought one of p bay an got told though here that tacho wouldnt work as was 4cyl but didnt no about the gauges if thats the case what a waste of money. could of disputed it on ebay with 12 hours to go but as i drive trucks i got home to late an had to buy it shit happen they who sell should say 4 or 6 cyl
cheers
keitho
#73
_426_
Posted 28 June 2009 - 09:58 PM
looks like you might have to find yourself a 6 cyl dash, I know how to tell the difference between the 4 cyl sports dash and the 6 cyl sports, redline is 5500rpm for 6 cyl, and 6000rpm for the 4 cyl
although before getting that far it might be worth starting a thread asking if there is a way to get the 4 cyl one working properly
Checked my sports cluster, redlines at 5500

Does it run off the standard cluster (ie non-sports)?
As for the temp gauge, its not an emidiate issue as long as the engine isn't over heating and if its not a RW issue.
Still gotta sort out the rear end noise... axle bearing.
And i will need a new box eventually as this one feel crap-a-delic!
#74
_426_
Posted 09 July 2009 - 09:31 PM
Once i get my bits, clean the girl, she's ready for the road worthy check.
I'm looking forwards to getting her running sweet. Even whiles she's a bit of a pig at the mo she's still quite enjoyable to drive.

#75
_426_
Posted 15 July 2009 - 09:55 PM
All my cars are misbehaving at the moment, including the Torana-bird... and i'm having no joy diagnosing the issues.
Anyways the bird had begun running rough at high revs but only under load, then it would do it more and more... what a pig.
When I first put the engine in, 2 spark plugs were cracked so I decided to check for more cracked plugs. removed then 1 at a time, wiped them off and inspected them but they all appeared copasetic so that wasn't the problem.
That said, the problem was no longer a problem. After returning the plugs the car not only ran good again, it ran better than ever. Go figure.

Damn i love driving this car.
Tomoz is a wheel alignment.
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