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202 Engine oil

Started by _mello92_ , May 01 2009 11:08 PM

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31 replies to this topic

#1 _mello92_

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 11:08 PM

Hi guys, just a quick question.
Was wondering what oil to use in my 202? Its was rebuilt less than 3000kms ago by the previous owner and they have been using BP Course Plus. However, I rekon its too heavy (being a 25w-60) and am considering a change to synthetic. Has anyone used Castrol Edge 25W-50 in a 202? (This is what I'm leaning towards)
Any recommendation on synthetics?
Cheers guys, thanks for your help.

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#2 _Allports_

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 11:19 PM

Be careful with synth' oils in your engine, not all will suit your motor. The 202 has a flat tappet cam and really does need the zinc that an SE/SF/SG/SH graded oil has in the mix. The later SJ/SL/SM oils dont have enough zinc to protect the cam and lifters from that sliding and twisting motion.

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#3 _mello92_

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 11:24 PM

Cheers allports, I just checked and edge 25w-50 is SG graded

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#4 _Allports_

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 11:34 PM

cool. Just be aware that your motor may not like synth, Keep an eagle eye on the oil level. Sometimes you they will use oil till they both come to terms with each other.

Edited by Allports, 01 May 2009 - 11:35 PM.

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#5 _mello92_

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 11:37 PM

Always have, always will mate. Often been told to put the dipstick back and hurry up. I read that some people use the synthetic for, say, a week, then change it again. What do you think?

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#6 _2ELCS_

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 11:52 PM

Hi mello92
I have used BP Course Plus in red sixes on the street and found it quite satisfactory. As Allports has stated be carefull with synthetics.
I didn.t know it was still available ?

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#7 Ice

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 12:35 AM

I would not i repeat would not use any castrol products do your homework when it comes to oil for your 202 imho i would recommend shell oils

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#8 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 02:09 AM

Been using 20W 50 valvoline premium or classic for a few years now in my 202 which gets driven daily which seems to be doing the job nicely. I have also used the 15W40 valvoline engine armour too, on my old 173, worked quite well.

Ive got to agree with glacier tho on one level. I did have castrol GTX2 in the 202 for a bit and something about it i didnt really like.

But if someones got better suggestions go ahead, this is just from what ive had in mine.

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#9 _Drag lc_

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 08:03 AM

i have used castrol 25/50 years ago in mild 202's but also used penrite hpr 40 25/70 in more hotted up 202's and now use hpr 50 40/70 its like liquified grease hehe but dont use anything that thick as you need to build the engine to suit that sort of oil hehe. but as above wouldnt recomend syn oils you would be better using normal oil and changing it more frequently.

my2c
Hayden

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#10 _Drag lc_

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 08:05 AM

oh forgot to add dont go peeling it out when cold with the thick oil in it.

Hayden

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#11 warrenm

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 09:31 AM

HPR50 is a bit like honey on a frosty morning so I use HPR40 in the winter & 50 in the warmer months.As Allports mention be careful of Synthetic oils in flat tappet engines.As for Corse Plus BP now sell Castrol oils since they merged,so the supplies of the corse oil are drying up.
Warren

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#12 yel327

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 09:49 AM

Is Edge 25W50 actually synthetic or just a blend?

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#13 _evil UC hatch_

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 06:31 PM

in a freshly built street motor a I would not use a 25w50

my suggestion would be penrite HPR30, I dont think anyone needs any thicker unless the motor has a few hundred thousand on it unless its being pushed to the limits or has a burning oil issue

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#14 _mello92_

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 06:57 PM

Wow!
Cheers guys, it seems the preferred oil is penrite hpr30, yes?
I expected better from Castrol, we've used them in all our farm machinery for years and everything still seems ok. A honest mate of mine, recently found out (not told) that Valvoline recycle thier oil, has anyone else heard of this? Anyone know who recycles their oil?

Probably shoud start a new topic for this, but, what do you recommend I use in the M76 and the Banjo?

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#15 _Drag lc_

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 07:06 PM

why was castrol no good?

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#16 _gtrtorana_

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 07:17 PM

As far as I know, Castrol edge 25w-50 is not synthetic, I use it in my 202. I have used/use Castrol in all my cars for a long time and never had an issue.

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#17 _bon_scott_

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 07:49 PM

Wow!
Cheers guys, it seems the preferred oil is penrite hpr30, yes?
I expected better from Castrol, we've used them in all our farm machinery for years and everything still seems ok. A honest mate of mine, recently found out (not told) that Valvoline recycle thier oil, has anyone else heard of this? Anyone know who recycles their oil?

Probably shoud start a new topic for this, but, what do you recommend I use in the M76 and the Banjo?

ATF is recommended for the M76, so try the newest dexron (I think its dexron 4?). Changed mine in the last few thousand and it was like giving the thing a rebuild.

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#18 lcgtr1970

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 08:07 PM

so whats the recommended oil then? the penrite?

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#19 _mello92_

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 08:24 PM

As far as I know, Castrol edge 25w-50 is not synthetic, I use it in my 202. I have used/use Castrol in all my cars for a long time and never had an issue.

Very true. Edge 25w50 is not synthetic, my mistake in my original post. Its the only mineral based Castrol Edge.

Thanks for that mate.

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#20 _mello92_

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 08:29 PM

Cheers bon_scott, yea im sure its dexron 4.

Sorry but I have another question.
The engine was rebuilt, then driven approx 800kms over 3 years. I bought it, then drove it 1500kms to home in 2 days. Is there any point in using an engine oil flush, to help get rid of the crap that could have came out after a good run?

Thanks guys.

This is hilarious!: http://www.youtube.c...h?v=Mj5ms9PJDNY

Edited by mello92, 02 May 2009 - 08:31 PM.

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#21 Ice

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:41 AM

No need to use engine flush run motor for five minutes then drop oil while still hot and filter of course then give it some fresh oil to easy.G

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#22 _mello92_

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 08:12 PM

Cheers mate, I take it they are just a marketing product then??? For idiots like me...

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#23 Ice

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 08:41 PM

No probs glad we can help thats what this forum is about well aahh most times anyway those marketing those products need to get a real job i hate retail

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#24 _torbirdie_

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 02:59 AM

Is there any point in using an engine oil flush, to help get rid of the crap that could have came out after a good run?

The idea of an engine flush is to get rid of stuff that is caked up in there, if you have already loosened up the "crap" by taking it for a run and making it part of the oil again, then its too late to use the flush, but possibly a good time to change the oil and filter(where hopefully most of the "crap") ended up.
To get some idea of how much crap is lurking in your motor, just take the oil cap of and feel around the inside of the rocker cover. Even if there is "crap" there, what's the point of trying to get it out. Sure if it all parted company at the same time it would clog your oil filter, and that's effectively what you'd be doing by putting the engine flush stuff in....more risk of clogging stuff up, causing undue wear on components using the flush . Let sleeping dogs lie.

Edited by torbirdie, 06 May 2009 - 03:06 AM.

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#25 _torbirdie_

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 03:20 AM

In regards to oil grade, I wouldnt use more than 20W50 for a 202 daily driver in good condition. 25W is a bit thick for cold starts in winter and oils with a high temp rating of 60 should only be used in worn engines or race cars operating at above ave temperatures.

20W/50 is the cheapest, but Id also suggest 15W/50 which can be purchased at reasonable cost. 10W50 or less is getting too expensive.