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LX under construction


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#226 _nial8r_

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 08:27 AM

So far so good then... i have shaped some steel up hoping to get a welder in the next few weeks or sooner and i will be attempting it all. Also noticed an air hacksaw works well to..
Whats best to treat the area with? any type of rust converter is ok?


cheers.


i would treat the bare metal with Deoxidine and a lick of weld through primer, from memory the backing plates are only spot welded hence the reason crap gets in behind it and rusts it away over time. So you could plug weld them back in place but like i said i will be running a bead right the way round and seam sealing it to stop and crud getting in behind it..

#227 _nial8r_

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 08:29 AM

You mongrels! I thought you had an update Lee!! :furious:


:D nah mate the only update i have is that i covered the engine bay over with an old sheet and put air in one of the tyres :mellow:
Wont be long before i get cracking again just got to finish the kitchen reno off first :sucker:

#228 torana_nick

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 08:42 PM

Thanks for your help Lee.

And apoligies Liam going over the same questions and answers..

#229 _nial8r_

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Posted 08 March 2012 - 07:07 AM

Thanks for your help Lee.

And apoligies Liam going over the same questions and answers..

no worries mate, i will help out were i can :D

#230 _Liam_

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Posted 08 March 2012 - 08:16 PM

Thanks for your help Lee.

And apoligies Liam going over the same questions and answers..


Don't apologise mate was just having a go haha. By all means ask questions only way you learn!

#231 notna

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:31 PM

How time flies huh! What are you up to these days Lee? Everything but the Torrie?

#232 _nial8r_

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 07:27 AM

Hi Anton, yeah mate all i have done on the torana in the last 5-6 mths is move it to one side in the shed and cover the engine bay with a sheet but now the weather is cooling down and my shed isnt so bloody hot i will be making a start on it again :D in the mean time i have rebuilt a 7x4 box trailer and been doing a bit of 4x4ing oh and finally done and finished the kitchen reno also scored about 500 keystone blocks so it looks like the front yard will be getting landscaped sooner than exspected :o

#233 notna

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 08:32 AM

:D Sukka's for punishment us blokes are sometimes hey Lee!!

When you're back into the resto, I'll be watching... B)

#234 _nial8r_

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 07:54 AM

ya not wrong mate, i dont think the wife realises that her new kitchen just cost me half of my running gear fund for the Torana :cry:

#235 notna

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 02:12 PM

...and a kitchen can't do burnouts! That's outrageous!

#236 Potta

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 02:17 PM

...and a kitchen can't do burnouts! That's outrageous!


You haven't met my misssus :mellow:

#237 _nial8r_

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 04:05 PM

You haven't met my misssus :mellow:


+1, mine goes alright in the kitchen but now were on gas i can sence one real soon :surrenderwave:

#238 _j.e.d._

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 03:23 PM

Took me 7 pages but I found it Lee!!!! (better than mine which is about 20 pages back haha) Thought I'd better message on this than hijack another thread!
I agree with what you're saying about practicality - the car has got to be useable & done to the way you want & are happy with. Any reason you can't keep this one & change direction? or would you be undoing a lot that's already been done?

#239 kingsly

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 03:42 PM

Any reason you can't keep this one & change direction? or would you be undoing a lot that's already been done?

You selling ur torrie nial8r?

#240 _nial8r_

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 12:13 PM

Took me 7 pages but I found it Lee!!!! (better than mine which is about 20 pages back haha) Thought I'd better message on this than hijack another thread!
I agree with what you're saying about practicality - the car has got to be useable & done to the way you want & are happy with. Any reason you can't keep this one & change direction? or would you be undoing a lot that's already been done?


yeah there would be a lot that would have to be undone. the only thing is finding another one that has stuff all rust in it like mine did, i hate have to do shitloads of rust repairs

#241 _nial8r_

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 12:19 PM

You selling ur torrie nial8r?

thinking very hard about it mate, would be good to keep it and just go nuts and use it on the strip and still have a beefed up cruiser but my yard wont allow for another 3x6m bay added on to the 6x9m i already have, spose i cold always throw up a double carport and kick my ute out of shed. hmmmmm now thats got me thinking :stirpot:

#242 Stinga

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 02:03 PM

just had a flick through the thread Lee, nice work. get a second one and tell the mrs its for her??

#243 notna

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 09:47 AM

WOW... It's been a YEAR since I comment on your resto, Lee.

 

Pull ya finger out mate, or I will have mine done before you! :D

 

Seriously though, question for you. Is it wise, or rather... is it absolutely necessary, to trial fit all panels that have been removed and repaired, before applying final colour? Kind of like a final assembly before pulling apart again for paint?



#244 _nial8r_

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 05:25 PM

lol ill get there mate :D as to your question IMO i re-fit and parts before the last rub down before colour to make sure all lines, door gaps, bonnet etc are even and that there are no imperfections that you may come across that need a bit of attention



#245 notna

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 06:43 PM

Yea... I'm going to have to do that I think. Nothing worse than a painted car with uneven door and panel gaps! :o



#246 _nial8r_

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 08:33 AM

vey true mate, i have already R&R the front end of mine 3 times now because of the replacement radiator support from a donor LX. its a total pain in the arse but it has to be done when doing a resto unless its just a lick 'n' stick job :D 



#247 Neils LX

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 02:15 PM

Did u ever get anymore gutter moulds, iv got a set not sure on how to take them off without frocking them thou. Can arrange to get them to you in next 6 months if your in no hurry (im 500+ klm away)



#248 _nial8r_

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Posted 02 May 2013 - 05:23 PM

Did u ever get anymore gutter moulds, iv got a set not sure on how to take them off without frocking them thou. Can arrange to get them to you in next 6 months if your in no hurry (im 500+ klm away)

sry for the late reply :mellow:  yeah i did get some gutter moulds of a parts car i bought a while ago. thanks for the offer and how you remembered i was looking for some has me stuffed lol  :nada:



#249 _Liam_

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 02:05 PM

Any updates brother?



#250 _A9X UC_

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 07:24 PM

hey all jsut some more pic's of this arvo's effort and some help or advice from someone would be able to tell me if there is something that i may have done wrong ??? its a 304 going into a LX, i have changed the sump to HQ and the engine mounts and brakets to Torana ones ( V8 SLR/A9X ) the motor seems to be laying back towards to the firewall but the T5 manual seems to be sitting nice and plumb, also even though im not using the manifold of the 304 i will be going with a harrop manifold, but the fuel rail cover on the left was hitting the firewall so i had to take the off to get the motor in..... anyway here are some pic's i toook so maybe there might be someone out there that can shed some light on this problem ??? ( the motor and box is only a dummy sit for now so that i can cut the hump for the T5 stick and line a couple of other little things up ) thx in advance :spoton:

motor going in with the fuel rail covers on :furious:
IMGP3610.jpg

here you can see how the motor is laying back and i have left a 40mm gab from the top of the box where the shifter is to the top of the hump.
IMGP3611.jpg

heres another shot, surley its not ment to sit like this ??
IMGP3612.jpg

a front shot :rolleyes:
IMGP3614.jpg

and a bit of a close up
IMGP3613.jpg

any info would be good at this point in time :spoton: just an after thought but is the K frame from a 173/202 different to 253/308 ???

Hey Lee

The VN fuel rail inlet is straight I'm assuming, only the later models VR-VS came out with 90degree fuel rail inlet.

If you look at some of my pics I have the VS-VT roller motor in mine and It clears the heater box by about 5-6mm. I also used HQ mounts which appaerently sits the motor slightly lower and a little further back.

I'm also courious If your using the Commo T5 the sifter hole will come up through the floor bracing, think It puts the shifter around 50mm further back than origanal. I went for the Ford T5, 167mm input shaft as I only had to cut the hole 5mm more at the back, from what I have been told ford n holden T5s are around the same strength, depends what sort of punisment you want to dish to it.

Just one thing with your gearbox cross member, measure your up pinion angle on your diff at level ground and match it with the down pinion angle on the back of the box. I had issues with my CRS cross member, they got it right after 3 times as well as me giving them the coreect measurements

 

Enjoying your project mate

Cheers  Mike....






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