hey all jsut some more pic's of this arvo's effort and some help or advice from someone would be able to tell me if there is something that i may have done wrong ??? its a 304 going into a LX, i have changed the sump to HQ and the engine mounts and brakets to Torana ones ( V8 SLR/A9X ) the motor seems to be laying back towards to the firewall but the T5 manual seems to be sitting nice and plumb, also even though im not using the manifold of the 304 i will be going with a harrop manifold, but the fuel rail cover on the left was hitting the firewall so i had to take the off to get the motor in..... anyway here are some pic's i toook so maybe there might be someone out there that can shed some light on this problem ??? ( the motor and box is only a dummy sit for now so that i can cut the hump for the T5 stick and line a couple of other little things up ) thx in advance
motor going in with the fuel rail covers on
here you can see how the motor is laying back and i have left a 40mm gab from the top of the box where the shifter is to the top of the hump.
heres another shot, surley its not ment to sit like this ??
a front shot
and a bit of a close up
any info would be good at this point in time just an after thought but is the K frame from a 173/202 different to 253/308 ???
Hey Lee
The VN fuel rail inlet is straight I'm assuming, only the later models VR-VS came out with 90degree fuel rail inlet.
If you look at some of my pics I have the VS-VT roller motor in mine and It clears the heater box by about 5-6mm. I also used HQ mounts which appaerently sits the motor slightly lower and a little further back.
I'm also courious If your using the Commo T5 the sifter hole will come up through the floor bracing, think It puts the shifter around 50mm further back than origanal. I went for the Ford T5, 167mm input shaft as I only had to cut the hole 5mm more at the back, from what I have been told ford n holden T5s are around the same strength, depends what sort of punisment you want to dish to it.
Just one thing with your gearbox cross member, measure your up pinion angle on your diff at level ground and match it with the down pinion angle on the back of the box. I had issues with my CRS cross member, they got it right after 3 times as well as me giving them the coreect measurements
Enjoying your project mate
Cheers Mike....