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LX under construction


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#51 _BATHURST-32D_

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 07:26 PM

well done lee, your doing some good quality work there mate, keep the pics comming.

cheers gong

#52 _nial8r_

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 07:31 PM

thx Gong just gotta sort out the larry layback the motor has got going on Posted Image

#53 _SSbloke_

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 07:33 PM

s h it lee if ive ever been lookin for a bit of motivation to get mine finished it watchin you at work keep the photos comin good job!

#54 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 07:40 PM

This is the first time I have gone through this post, F#*k well done man keep going.

#55 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 07:53 PM

Looking good Lee Posted Image I had the same problem with my silver SLR. What gearbox crossmember are you using to mount the T5? I used a CRS crossmember for the TH350 in my SLR & the motor layed back like your's appears to be doing, so i made a 10mm spacer to go between the x-member & gearbox mount. The fuel rail to firewall is a tight fit in these Toranas, which is why I moded the heater box for mine too. Also, can you get access to the bellhousing to engine bolts relatively easy? On my Torana I can get a spanner on to them, but on the passenger side, to wind the bolt all the way out, I have to lift the back of the engine up ( using a jack under the gearbox mount ) . When it's all sitting in place, the isn't alot of room between the back of the block & the firewall. Is this the same with yours? I also used HQ engine mounts in my Torana which sit the engine lower than the original V8 Torana mounts. The HQ sump clears the k-frame with these mounts, but it's a close fit. I've also been told the shifter for the T5 will sit alot further back than the original Torana floor shifter did & the same is for T5 in early Commies too. This was also the case with a Muncie 4spd I fitted to an LH years ago. If you look at the factory fitted M20/M21 & trimatics compared to say a T5 or TH700, you can see the difference in physical size, which is possibly why the shifter sits that far back. Hope this helps of sorts. I can take pics of the engine/gearbox to firewall clearence of my SLR if it helps & post them up for you if you like.



#56 _nial8r_

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 08:26 PM

Looking good Lee Posted Image I had the same problem with my silver SLR. What gearbox crossmember are you using to mount the T5? I used a CRS crossmember for the TH350 in my SLR & the motor layed back like your's appears to be doing, so i made a 10mm spacer to go between the x-member & gearbox mount. The fuel rail to firewall is a tight fit in these Toranas, which is why I moded the heater box for mine too. Also, can you get access to the bellhousing to engine bolts relatively easy? On my Torana I can get a spanner on to them, but on the passenger side, to wind the bolt all the way out, I have to lift the back of the engine up ( using a jack under the gearbox mount ) . When it's all sitting in place, the isn't alot of room between the back of the block & the firewall. Is this the same with yours? I also used HQ engine mounts in my Torana which sit the engine lower than the original V8 Torana mounts. The HQ sump clears the k-frame with these mounts, but it's a close fit. I've also been told the shifter for the T5 will sit alot further back than the original Torana floor shifter did & the same is for T5 in early Commies too. This was also the case with a Muncie 4spd I fitted to an LH years ago. If you look at the factory fitted M20/M21 & trimatics compared to say a T5 or TH700, you can see the difference in physical size, which is possibly why the shifter sits that far back. Hope this helps of sorts. I can take pics of the engine/gearbox to firewall clearence of my SLR if it helps & post them up for you if you like.



thx for all the praise fella's, Posted Image

Matt i have about 10mm clearence between the HQ sump and the Xmember, also i do have a good bit off clearence between the firewall to get to the bell housing bolts, also i cant go any lower with the the motor as the sump will hit, i dont mind where the shifter will sit for the T5 i just have to piss the console brakets off but is the TH700 shorter than than the T5 ??? even if i raise the ass end of the block the motor will sit to proud and i can see a custom hump getting fabbed up to fit the box in Posted Image i havent got a gearbox crossmember yet as i was gonna fab one up but just playing around with it with the trolley jack to see where,how & why it gonna sit/fit was todays plan. if you could snap a couple of pic's for me that would be good but for some reason i can see the hump getting mod'ed right up which will mean the the motor wil sit real proud and more of it hanging out of the bonnet Posted Image but nah in all honesty i would like it to sit nice with out to much chopping ( none if possible ) goin on just a clean smooth bay and something chrome just popping its head out the bonnet for fresh clean air, the main concentration now it to get this motor and box sitting right cause i dont wanna be stuffing around with it when i have just painted it all up, fit it now make sure its all good then chuck the heart back in with plenty of go fast bits added Posted Image

#57 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 05 September 2009 - 08:57 PM

I'm almost certain you will have to modify the trans tunnel to clear the T5. this may give you the clearence you need from the fuel rail to firewall by lifting the back of the engine up & forward a touch. A9X Toranas when fitted with a Borg Warner T10 gearbox ( which was an "ancestor" of the T5 )had a special trans tunnel "blister" welded in for clearence. These were made by GMH & were available from GMHP&A back in the day. I'm sure to fit the TH700 out of my VN i will have to modify the trans tunnel too. I think you're going about it the right way though, trial fitting every thing first, so i'm sure you'll work it out. Will take some pics of my SLR engine/gearbox on monday for you. All in all looks like you're making some good progress with the Torana. Well done Posted Image
Cheers Matt



#58 _nial8r_

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 08:47 AM

I'm almost certain you will have to modify the trans tunnel to clear the T5. this may give you the clearence you need from the fuel rail to firewall by lifting the back of the engine up & forward a touch. A9X Toranas when fitted with a Borg Warner T10 gearbox ( which was an "ancestor" of the T5 )had a special trans tunnel "blister" welded in for clearence. These were made by GMH & were available from GMHP&A back in the day. I'm sure to fit the TH700 out of my VN i will have to modify the trans tunnel too. I think you're going about it the right way though, trial fitting every thing first, so i'm sure you'll work it out. Will take some pics of my SLR engine/gearbox on monday for you. All in all looks like you're making some good progress with the Torana. Well done Posted Image
Cheers Matt



Thx Matt, yep just had another look at it with my one eye ( really bad welders flash ) Posted Image and it will need to be cut for sure but the part where it will need to be cut is one the main support that runs across the floor pan right where the console braket is, but im not worried about pissing the braket of its cutting that supportPosted Image and then it also makes me wonder when i get the height i need there is gonna be a pretty big angle on the uni's Posted Image ........ what box have you used in ya silver sling shot Matt ??? and how much or did you need to cut the tunnel to get ya box in ?? i could always get custom mount brakets and sump made up so that it would sit lower but would be good if i didnt have to

#59 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 09:25 AM


I'm almost certain you will have to modify the trans tunnel to clear the T5. this may give you the clearence you need from the fuel rail to firewall by lifting the back of the engine up & forward a touch. A9X Toranas when fitted with a Borg Warner T10 gearbox ( which was an "ancestor" of the T5 )had a special trans tunnel "blister" welded in for clearence. These were made by GMH & were available from GMHP&A back in the day. I'm sure to fit the TH700 out of my VN i will have to modify the trans tunnel too. I think you're going about it the right way though, trial fitting every thing first, so i'm sure you'll work it out. Will take some pics of my SLR engine/gearbox on monday for you. All in all looks like you're making some good progress with the Torana. Well done Posted Image
Cheers Matt



Thx Matt, yep just had another look at it with my one eye ( really bad welders flash ) Posted Image and it will need to be cut for sure but the part where it will need to be cut is one the main support that runs across the floor pan right where the console braket is, but im not worried about pissing the braket of its cutting that supportPosted Image and then it also makes me wonder when i get the height i need there is gonna be a pretty big angle on the uni's Posted Image ........ what box have you used in ya silver sling shot Matt ??? and how much or did you need to cut the tunnel to get ya box in ?? i could always get custom mount brakets and sump made up so that it would sit lower but would be good if i didnt have to


No probs Lee. That cross beam where the console bracket is welded is a structual part of the car & I wouldn't be keen to cut it if it were my car,but in saying that, a mate had to do something similar with his HT Monaro, though I don't remember what box he was fitting. Even though he was a rough bugger when it came to the work he did on his car, he did this mod properly & called in an engineer to certify it & it came out OK. I'm running a Turbo Hydro 350 in my SLR mainly cause they fit with no mods to the trans tunnel. If I used a TH400 or Powerglide I would've needed mods done. I watched the same mate with the HT Monaro try & fit a 327 Chev & Powerglide to an LX he had before & the box wouldn't clear the LHS floorpan. Being the rough bugger that he was (was, he's dead now) he tried to force the box in by jacking it up onto the floor. Only problem was instead of the floor bending, the corner of the Powerglide snapped offPosted Image . I posted a thread regarding fitting the TH700 out of my VN into my Torana but didn't get alot of feedback, so i'll be in the same boat as you when the time comes. Lots of trial fittingPosted Image As for uni angles, I think that's where some of the driveline issues with my SLR lay, as I lifted the back of the motor/box up. It needs adjustable top rear control arms to adjust the pinion angle of the diff & I'm pretty sure your car will too. I wouldn't muck around with custom engine mounts & sumps, your engine sits in fine, it would be the gearbox I would be making fit better. I'm keen to see how you go with this as in the back of my mind I'd like to fit a T5 to my Torana someday. I like autos but I have a bad habit of breaking them. My VR is on it's fourth rebuild in four years. Something to do with manual shifting them while turning the tyres at high revs Posted Image

#60 _BATHURST-32D_

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 09:27 AM

if you have to many problems with it and want to keep the engine all under the bonnet, you can always do what i done when i put the 400 chev in my vl, as thay sit alot higher than a 308-304, i spacered my frount crossmember from the rails, i use alloy blocks about 15mm thick,it will allow the body to rise by that much, you just might need to get longer bolts.

cheers gong

#61 _nial8r_

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 09:46 AM

ya got a good point there mate with the blocks but with the torana and the 304 + T5 i would be looking at something around 100mm as a guesstament Posted Image

#62 _nial8r_

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 09:52 AM

Matt with the uni set up i could always do what i did with my old 4x4 when i lifted it, cut the mounts of the Diff and roll it and replace the mounts in the right spot as i have to have the LSD shortened anyway......... nah i think that would be a bad idea think it would be askin for trouble Posted Image

#63 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 11:46 AM

^ That is the correct way to set pinion angle if you are building a diff. Some diff builders will ask you to measure the angle.

Adjustable/modified arms are only suitable for small adjustments. When the pinion angle is adjusted by adjustable/modified arms, the spring mounts and lower control mounts are also affected.

#64 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 12:09 PM

^ That is the correct way to set pinion angle if you are building a diff. Some diff builders will ask you to measure the angle.

Adjustable/modified arms are only suitable for small adjustments. When the pinion angle is adjusted by adjustable/modified arms, the spring mounts and lower control mounts are also affected.


This is why I enjoy being a member of this forum. So many people with great advice & ideas. I've been playing around with cars for more than half my life & work in the auto trade, but have learned so much from other people here & i'm still learning something new most every time i log on to the forum. Both my Torana projects have benefited from advice & help I've recieved here. Looks like the mod you performed on your 4X4 wasn't such a bad idea after all Lee.

#65 _nial8r_

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 01:15 PM


^ That is the correct way to set pinion angle if you are building a diff. Some diff builders will ask you to measure the angle.

Adjustable/modified arms are only suitable for small adjustments. When the pinion angle is adjusted by adjustable/modified arms, the spring mounts and lower control mounts are also affected.


This is why I enjoy being a member of this forum. So many people with great advice & ideas. I've been playing around with cars for more than half my life & work in the auto trade, but have learned so much from other people here & i'm still learning something new most every time i log on to the forum. Both my Torana projects have benefited from advice & help I've recieved here. Looks like the mod you performed on your 4X4 wasn't such a bad idea after all Lee.


yeah the mod on the 4x4 is very common in a spring over but wasnt to sure about it or the affects it would have on the rocket im trying to build Posted Image i was looking at another thread on a 304 into a UC and the tunnle had to be cut right where i have to cut to get the lift but the UC didnt seem to have that support that runs across the floor pan as in the LX looks like iwill have a lot of thinking to do about this part of the buildPosted Image any ideas that you might have dont forget to share them please Posted Image

#66 _GMH355_

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 02:20 PM

Nice project, good read as well. Most of the replys to your questions are similar to what I have experienced. I have attached some photo links of my engine bay and some photos of a T5 in a LX. At the time these photos were taken I had a VS 5L and T5 fitted in my LH. I used HQ engine mounts and sump. The gearbox crossmember was from CRS in Victoria. Unfortunately I don't have any side on photos, but you get an indication of the height of the rear of the engine in relation to the gutter on the firewall.

I had to modify the heater box for fuel rail clearance, but apart from that no other engine bay modifications were made.

The only modification to the transmission tunnel was the hole you see in the photos. The T5 shifter sits around 10-15cm further back than the postion a M20/21 shifter would sit.

Photos:
Engine bay 1
Engine bay 2
Trans tunnel 1
Trans tunnel 2

#67 _nial8r_

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 04:41 PM

Nice project, good read as well. Most of the replys to your questions are similar to what I have experienced. I have attached some photo links of my engine bay and some photos of a T5 in a LX. At the time these photos were taken I had a VS 5L and T5 fitted in my LH. I used HQ engine mounts and sump. The gearbox crossmember was from CRS in Victoria. Unfortunately I don't have any side on photos, but you get an indication of the height of the rear of the engine in relation to the gutter on the firewall.

I had to modify the heater box for fuel rail clearance, but apart from that no other engine bay modifications were made.

The only modification to the transmission tunnel was the hole you see in the photos. The T5 shifter sits around 10-15cm further back than the postion a M20/21 shifter would sit.

Photos:
Engine bay 1
Engine bay 2
Trans tunnel 1
Trans tunnel 2


Thx Heaps GMH355 there the kinda pic's i needed to see Posted Image just a couple of questions for ya that you would know......1ST did you have to make up any sort of brace where you cut the tunnel as its right on the a support and 2nd did you have to have you diff rolled to take some of the angle and load of the uni's ????

also your Torana looks really nice sitting that bay mate just like it was ment to be there you done a really nice job of the lot Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

#68 _GMH355_

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 09:44 PM

nial8r, thanks for the kinds words mate :D . In regards to the section of tunnel that is cut for the shifter. I made up some metal plates and welded them to box in the area around the cut out, hope that makes sense. The hole that was cut in the LX tunnel you see in the photos is a little larger than required. You should be able to get away with a smaller hole (lengthwise front to back). That rusted out LX was used for a dummy assembly so the hole was cut roughly.

When I first did the install I didn't find the pinion angle a problem. My car is fitted with a 9 inch diff and at that time had standard LH/LX rear control arms. I didn't notice any driveline vibrations and my unis didn't have any noticeable premature wear. It's hard to say if your car will experience a vibration because ride height and spring selection will play apart as well.

A few years after the initial VS 5L and T5 install I did some engine mods and upped the power, in the process fitted a Tremec 5 speed gearbox. I also raised the car with taller springs for increased ground clearance. This combination produced a noticeable driveline vibration which was the result of the pinion angle. Adjustable top rear control arms corrected the pinion angle and cured the vibration.

#69 _nial8r_

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 11:54 AM

righto i had a bit of a play this morning but not to much as im still looking outta one eye friggin welders flash Posted Image so i went down to the shed and took another look at the 304/T5 set up again, took a couple of measurments as the motor had to be raised up but the box was hitting on the tunnel, but thx to GMH355 for posting up some pic's of how his sits i think i have it right and didnt have to cut the centre support very much 30mm to be precise Posted Image and where i cut it and can be boxed back up and wont loose any strenth at all so anyway here are some pic's of the cut i did, it hasnt been tidied up yet cause like i said i did it one eyed lol,,,, tell me if the engine seems to be sitting right, there are pic's of mine, pic's of GMH355 ( yellow & Black one ) and a pic of a 304 in a VN Bay so here goes, any pointers i will gladly take on board,, thx in advance Posted Image

my engine
Posted Image

GMH355 's engine
Posted Image

mine
Posted Image

GMH355 's
Posted Image

304 in a VN
Posted Image

304 in a VN2
Posted Image

and the hole in the hump as you can see i had to cut stuff all of the support and it can be boxed back up Posted Image
Posted Image

see how straight my cut are with one eye Posted Image
Posted Image

like i said any pointers will be taken on board so dont be shy to speak if you see a woopsy Posted Image

#70 MRLXSS

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 11:59 AM

Your doing a great job mate! That is coming up really well! I like the clean look of the Inj motors in the engine bay. Can't wait to see it all finished!

How awesome is GMH355's bay!! WOW!

#71 _nial8r_

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 02:31 PM

thx MRLXSS, GMH355 's is very neat and tidy but the madifold on mine will be getting replaced with a harrop single plane manifold so i wont have any fuel rail covers on mine so it might not look as neat as his, i do like the look of the 304's in the bays with all the cover still on they do look really smooth, but i have been thinking of building another LX but keeping it simple, neat and tidy, always wanted a hatch so if you here that the wife has devorced me anytime soon you now i have bought a hatch Posted Image "jokes"

#72 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 09:05 PM

Another Torana project? Ah, i see the bug has well & truely bitten, huh Lee Posted Image Now you know why I have two Toranas. Just couldn't help myself Posted Image anyhow looks like your project is moving along in leaps & bounds. The rate you're going, you'll be driving it before I get mine on the road. Keep up the good work & keep the pics comin Posted Image

#73 _nial8r_

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 07:38 AM

thx Matt, somwhow i dont think i mine will be on the road before yours mate, im glad im doing the dummy fit now with the support of and before any paint goes down cause there has already ben some knocks and scratchs, once i know everything is in its place and i happy with it then i will start back on the repairs again, and with the other Torana projet well i can see this one im doing now is gonna turn out not to be a daily driver and thats what my first plan was but it has swung right around Posted Image

#74 76lxhatch

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 07:54 AM

It probably won't have any effect on your clearance, but it looks a little like your engine is high on the drivers side, needs a wiggle on the mounts.

Looking good so far!

#75 _nial8r_

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 08:53 AM

good eyes mate it is out by 5mm but like you said it dosent affect the clearence with the box Posted Image




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