I have had my k frame rebuilt and I am trying to install. I have been following instructions from 1s2lxhatch but as good as the instructions are I have hit a brick wall. The k frame has all components attached including sway bar.
The process that I have followed is: using a floor jack, I aligned the k frame and secured the front four bolts to the sub frame (including new bushes). That was the easy part. I used lubricated scrapers to assist the rear k frame arms to be located to the mounting point on the sub frame. Here is where I have hit that brick wall. The rear holes between the sub frame and the rear k frame arm do not line up. It seams that the k frame needs to move forward which is difficult as there is no slack for a forward movement.
I appreciate to know your experiences and the tricks of getting a k frame bolted into place without slitting the dummy. Photos would also be a help.
Installing k frame
Started by
_1ARC_
, May 11 2009 11:02 AM
23 replies to this topic
#2
hatchssv8
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 11:34 AM
Have you tightened the four nuts on the chassis rails before you attempted to locate the bolts on the lower two holes (your brick wall) I have always located all bolts in the chassis and k frame prior to fitting nuts and tightening. Lifting the k frame parallel to the chassis rail makes the job of aligning the holes much easier.
If not, try loosening the chassis nuts up top and see if the lower holes can be aligned.
By the way, is the k frame you are fitting the same one which was removed from your car?
Cheers, Max
If not, try loosening the chassis nuts up top and see if the lower holes can be aligned.
By the way, is the k frame you are fitting the same one which was removed from your car?
Cheers, Max
#3
Posted 11 May 2009 - 11:35 AM
The four front bolts and bushes have quite a bit of slop/movement available, have you actually tightened them? They may be holding it in the wrong spot
#4
_TRRANA_
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 12:29 PM
if youre not too fussy, grind the end of your bolts into a point, this will assist in guiding the bolts into the holes....
#5
_1ARC_
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 01:15 PM
Have you tightened the four nuts on the chassis rails before you attempted to locate the bolts on the lower two holes (your brick wall) I have always located all bolts in the chassis and k frame prior to fitting nuts and tightening. Lifting the k frame parallel to the chassis rail makes the job of aligning the holes much easier.
If not, try loosening the chassis nuts up top and see if the lower holes can be aligned.
By the way, is the k frame you are fitting the same one which was removed from your car?
Cheers, Max
I had the 4 bolts with the bushes in position and the nuts finger tightened. The k frame is the same as it came off. I have tried to lift the k frame parallel but no luck.
Do you locate the bolts with the 4 front bushes both top ond bottoms in position?
Cheers John
#6
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 01:18 PM
The four front bolts and bushes have quite a bit of slop/movement available, have you actually tightened them? They may be holding it in the wrong spot
No I have not tightened any of the bolts. I am sure that it has to do with having every think lined up. The problem is if I line up the 4 bolts first there is no room for any movement to allign the rear bolts.
#7
Mort
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 01:45 PM
No I have not tightened any of the bolts. I am sure that it has to do with having every think lined up. The problem is if I line up the 4 bolts first there is no room for any movement to allign the rear bolts.
I haven't done this job yet but it will be on the cards when i get around to statring on Tracie's car so i am looking forward too the answers and fixes to the problem.
Would it possible for you to take photos of what you have already done just so the gurus have a bit more of an idea of the problem you have and it will help the rest of us if we come accross The Brick Wall
.Mort
#8
Statler
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 02:08 PM
Put the outrigger bolts in first.
They are fixed on the chassis & there is no adjustment there.
Leave the top [4] rubbers off, just fit the lowers, then push,shove,swear until it ligns up, fit top rubbers/washers/nuts & tighten........beer time!
They are fixed on the chassis & there is no adjustment there.
Leave the top [4] rubbers off, just fit the lowers, then push,shove,swear until it ligns up, fit top rubbers/washers/nuts & tighten........beer time!
#9
_chrome yella_
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 02:31 PM
i used twitch ropes to help put mine in, one to pull the outriggers in and one off the diff, just use 18mm rope to make a loop then use a 20mm stick about 2ft and keep twisting. or ratchet straps if you have them
#10
_1ARC_
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 03:02 PM
Put the outrigger bolts in first.
They are fixed on the chassis & there is no adjustment there.
Leave the top [4] rubbers off, just fit the lowers, then push,shove,swear until it ligns up, fit top rubbers/washers/nuts & tighten........beer time!
I even tried this but found that the 4 bolts would not allign and would not go past the front bush cup. Cheers
#11
Posted 11 May 2009 - 03:04 PM
They usually line up better the other way, bear in mind that as soon as you place weight on the front mounts they won't move/adjust. Grease up the rear outrigger mounts a bit otherwise they will get stuck and won't move cleanly into position, sometimes a pry bar helps to just tweak it.
#12
Statler
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 03:06 PM
I meant.....the 4 bolts go up with the lower rubbers on, leave 10 mm for clearance,then fit the out rigger bolts.
That's how i do mine.
Sorry for the confusion.
That's how i do mine.
Sorry for the confusion.
#13
Struggler
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 03:48 PM
I have tried it every way possible and now I always fit the outrigger bolts first (just put the nut on loosely so the bolts dont fall out) then manipulate the top 4 into location.
JMHO
JMHO
#14
_1ARC_
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 03:51 PM
I meant.....the 4 bolts go up with the lower rubbers on, leave 10 mm for clearance,then fit the out rigger bolts.
That's how i do mine.
Sorry for the confusion.
Is the 10mm clearance from the top of the lower bush to the bottom of the sub frame?
Do you have the lower bush resting on the k frame or are they resting in the hole of the sub frame?
#15
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 03:59 PM
leave clearance between the tower top & the k frame so it can be manouvered into place.
When the outrigger bolts are in, use a screwdriver to locate the lower bushes.
When the outrigger bolts are in, use a screwdriver to locate the lower bushes.
#16
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Posted 11 May 2009 - 06:07 PM
Done mine a few weeks ago with no problems at all.
Generally if it wont fit, you got to call it every swear word you know, even make up a few words.
Throw the spanners, leave it for a couple of hours and when you come back to it,
it will fall back into place like you wont believe . Its like magic, its amazing how it happens.
Generally if it wont fit, you got to call it every swear word you know, even make up a few words.
Throw the spanners, leave it for a couple of hours and when you come back to it,
it will fall back into place like you wont believe . Its like magic, its amazing how it happens.
#17
_Lhover_
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Posted 15 May 2009 - 10:03 PM
Spit the Dummy , I know I did.Tried for over 8 hours to get my rebuilt UC k frame into my LH ( it never happened ).To anyone reading this make sure you check your UC k frame is not bent slightly before rebuilding it ( you think I would have checked hey).I switched My UC components onto my LH K frame(drilled lower UCA mounting holes) and refitted it this way.Jacked it up under vehicle using floor jack.Guide four Engine rail bolts up through mounting holes,do not engage lower chassis hole onto location boss on bush,leave bushes on for bolts about 1 cm under the Engine rail holes.Now push up outrigger into under body frame and put bolts through frame and bush.Now jack the frame fully up into the engine rail holes.Mine didn't line up perfectly so I used a small wrecking bar and reached down through the top engine bay hole and levered the frame into position,I was able to achieve approx 5 to 10 mm longitudinal movement this way.The lucky ones whose frames fit in probably have pretty straight Toranas mine probably wasn't.
I would imagine over the years some Torrys have had a hard life and a small knock on the k frame or small shunt would turn the k frame into a stessed member meaning when you go to refit it it may need slight persuasion
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Good luck
Chuck.
I would imagine over the years some Torrys have had a hard life and a small knock on the k frame or small shunt would turn the k frame into a stessed member meaning when you go to refit it it may need slight persuasion
.
Good luck
Chuck.
Edited by Lhover, 15 May 2009 - 10:16 PM.
#18
_darrenmark1_
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Posted 15 May 2009 - 10:18 PM
Has it been hit before? Mine went straight in, bit of a kick here and there but not that much trouble. the back bolts that you are using are they tapered on the end? do you know if the car has ever been hit? It is most likely that it has never been out before, and if it has been hit was holding it straight, now with it taken out maybe it has released the pressure and moved a bit. Are you doing it on your own? Its not that easy, i take it thats why the bottom bolts are tappered on the end.
If it don't fit hit it harder!
If it don't fit hit it harder!
Edited by darrenmark1, 15 May 2009 - 10:19 PM.
#19
_the gts_
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Posted 18 May 2009 - 10:52 PM
I have the same problems every time, have tried different ways and agree with struggler. outriggers first.
They are a pain in the a$$. Anyone who says they go in easy is making up stories!
Just curious - has anyone checked the manual? what does that say?
They are a pain in the a$$. Anyone who says they go in easy is making up stories!
Just curious - has anyone checked the manual? what does that say?
#20
_The Baron_
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Posted 19 May 2009 - 05:45 PM
And some people achieve this with and engine and gearbox attached.
I take my hat off to them!!!!!!
I take my hat off to them!!!!!!
#22
_the gts_
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Posted 19 May 2009 - 10:59 PM
HMMM sounds like the 4 engine bay bolts are first to put in.
yes i do mine with everything attached engine, trans, wheels etc as a whole complete roll in assembly
yes i do mine with everything attached engine, trans, wheels etc as a whole complete roll in assembly
#23
Posted 20 May 2009 - 07:56 AM
That's the only way I've ever been able to get it properly lined up, I reckon this method lends itself to dropping the body onto the frame as opposed to raising the frame into the body.HMMM sounds like the 4 engine bay bolts are first to put in.
#24
_1ARC_
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Posted 20 May 2009 - 10:58 AM
I had a win on the weekend. I followed the description on installing the cross member in my LH service manual. That is, the front bolts first and then the rears.
As I had the front end rebuilt all components are tight with no give in any direction. I found that the trick is to lift the k frame so that it is aligned with the angle of the frame of the car. To do this I used two jacks, one to lift the weight and align the front bolts and the other to lift/lower the rear arms to ensure that the right angle was maintained. This worked well.
The other thing I did was that I used a cabinet markers G clamp to clamp the rear arms in wards. This allowed me to lift the k frame and allow the rear arms to go over the lip on the sub-frame where the rear bolts align with the rear arms.
It took my son and I three patient hours to do this. Not every thing is as easy as it is made out to be.
As I had the front end rebuilt all components are tight with no give in any direction. I found that the trick is to lift the k frame so that it is aligned with the angle of the frame of the car. To do this I used two jacks, one to lift the weight and align the front bolts and the other to lift/lower the rear arms to ensure that the right angle was maintained. This worked well.
The other thing I did was that I used a cabinet markers G clamp to clamp the rear arms in wards. This allowed me to lift the k frame and allow the rear arms to go over the lip on the sub-frame where the rear bolts align with the rear arms.
It took my son and I three patient hours to do this. Not every thing is as easy as it is made out to be.
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