oh yeah and any ifo on were i can pick up a clean radiator suport from as mine is well............. um yeah !!Cheers Lee
MINI TUBBING AN LX SEDAN
Started by
_nial8r_
, May 12 2009 04:03 PM
17 replies to this topic
#1
_nial8r_
_nial8r_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 May 2009 - 04:03 PM
hey all, i wanna mini tub my LX but after a closer look there doesnt seem to be much room to play with before i will hit the rails !!! has anyone done this mod or has pic's it would be a great help to me as i wanna run 235/45/17 on all for legs!! any help would be good thx heaps oh yeah and any ifo on were i can pick up a clean radiator suport from as mine is well............. um yeah !!
Cheers Lee
oh yeah and any ifo on were i can pick up a clean radiator suport from as mine is well............. um yeah !!Cheers Lee
#3
Heath
View Garage
-
- Administrators
-
- 18,365 posts
I like cars.
- Name:Heath
- Location:Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne
- Car:Heavily Modified UC Sunbird Hatchback
- Joined: 07-November 05
View Garage
Posted 12 May 2009 - 05:49 PM
Patience!
Radiator support repairs are not hugely hard to do, and the repro sections are generally not particularly good (or so I have heard)
Don't know about mini-tubbing, but there are a few examples of mini tubbing work on these forums; surely the pictures are worth a thousand words each
Radiator support repairs are not hugely hard to do, and the repro sections are generally not particularly good (or so I have heard)
Don't know about mini-tubbing, but there are a few examples of mini tubbing work on these forums; surely the pictures are worth a thousand words each
Edited by Heath, 12 May 2009 - 05:50 PM.
#4
_LJ355_
_LJ355_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 May 2009 - 05:57 PM
I would say the size tyre you want to run wouldnt need mini tubbing
#5
wot179
-
- Members
-
- 6,784 posts
Green Eggs and Spam
- Name:Jesus Bloody Christ
- Location:Sunny Santa Maria
- Car:Goon
- Joined: 06-February 09
Posted 12 May 2009 - 06:15 PM
Unless you modify the rails and move the springs inboard and use coilovers I dont think there is a lot of room to be gained.
#6
_nial8r_
_nial8r_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 May 2009 - 06:21 PM
thx fella's, just gotta remember that im not putting flairs on it and when i put the rim/tyre under the ass it didnt seem to wanna sit in there, and nope the gaurds havent been rolled either, maybe i better gett back out in the shed and have a better sticky at it hey !!!
and the radiator support is totally gone at the bottom, me thinks im might be turning into a new age panel better lookin for bolt off bolt on replacements instead of doin it the good old way a couple of different hammers a dolly or 2 a couple of hammered thumbs little bit of welders flash and a few swear words seems to always get the job done just takes a little longer..
Cheers Lee
and the radiator support is totally gone at the bottom, me thinks im might be turning into a new age panel better lookin for bolt off bolt on replacements instead of doin it the good old way a couple of different hammers a dolly or 2 a couple of hammered thumbs little bit of welders flash and a few swear words seems to always get the job done just takes a little longer..
Cheers Lee
#7
_OLC383_
_OLC383_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 May 2009 - 06:36 PM
nial8r, i have an LC (2dr) & have had 235 x 60-14 without any problem, i assume that the LH/LX would have a bigger tub area than an LC.
If your rims dont seem to fit corectly you could possible have the wrong off set on the rear of the rims, where dose the rim touch when on the car, maybe some one on this forum has the same size rims that you want & they could tell you what off set they have.
Cheers
Wayne
If your rims dont seem to fit corectly you could possible have the wrong off set on the rear of the rims, where dose the rim touch when on the car, maybe some one on this forum has the same size rims that you want & they could tell you what off set they have.
Cheers
Wayne
#8
_moot_
_moot_
-
- Guests
#9
Struggler
-
- Members
-
- 2,426 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:Andrew or AJ
- Location:Canberra A.C.T.
- Car:UC Sedan
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 12 May 2009 - 09:58 PM
You can get another inch in by modifying the rear part of the inner guard with a sledge hammer (knock it back to the rail).
You will then rub on the shock shroud which can be cut off for a bit more room.
If you get this far and it still rubs then you need to follow Moots thread.
As for your radiator support, they usually rust out the strengthening tube below the radiator. I have cut all this out before and replaced it with a bit of light RHS. This area is hidden behind the nosecone so wont be seen easily. A bit less work than removing the whole radiator support panel.
Hope this helps.
You will then rub on the shock shroud which can be cut off for a bit more room.
If you get this far and it still rubs then you need to follow Moots thread.
As for your radiator support, they usually rust out the strengthening tube below the radiator. I have cut all this out before and replaced it with a bit of light RHS. This area is hidden behind the nosecone so wont be seen easily. A bit less work than removing the whole radiator support panel.
Hope this helps.
#10
_nial8r_
_nial8r_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 May 2009 - 08:30 AM
You can get another inch in by modifying the rear part of the inner guard with a sledge hammer (knock it back to the rail).
You will then rub on the shock shroud which can be cut off for a bit more room.
If you get this far and it still rubs then you need to follow Moots thread.
As for your radiator support, they usually rust out the strengthening tube below the radiator. I have cut all this out before and replaced it with a bit of light RHS. This area is hidden behind the nosecone so wont be seen easily. A bit less work than removing the whole radiator support panel.
Hope this helps.
Thx mate i think i will have a look see at the support and see what i come up with
Lee
#11
LS1LX
-
- Members
-
- 1,931 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Sydney
- Joined: 22-November 05
Posted 13 May 2009 - 10:10 AM
I was running 255/40 R17's on a standard style rear before, lipped rear guards but no bashing to the rails at all.
The problem is the front, I dont know how well the 235's are going to fit, I could bet my left testy they will clip the front lower edge of the guard and come real close to the footwell lip on turn.
The problem is the front, I dont know how well the 235's are going to fit, I could bet my left testy they will clip the front lower edge of the guard and come real close to the footwell lip on turn.
#12
_nial8r_
_nial8r_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 May 2009 - 11:48 AM
I was running 255/40 R17's on a standard style rear before, lipped rear guards but no bashing to the rails at all.
The problem is the front, I dont know how well the 235's are going to fit, I could bet my left testy they will clip the front lower edge of the guard and come real close to the footwell lip on turn.
hey there 'LS1LX' i just not long ago meausered up inside the rear arch and from the shock to the lip on the gaurd i have about 10inch's that if i roll the lip on the gaurd so the 235 is gonna fit now i gotta check the front and yep i think ya right with the tyre rubbing the inner, hey and i have another question for ya.... when you put the LS1 in ur LX did you have to cut up much of the hump ?? and did you keep the original dash cluster or did you have to go custom ??? im thinking i might have to go custom as the the old claster is well we all now its mechanical and the LS1 is electrical. how did you get around this problem if ya dont mind me askin
Cheers Lee
#13
_moot_
_moot_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 May 2009 - 12:57 PM
the biggest problem with trying to get decent tyres under the back is getting a nice ride height.i have seen 275's under a standard torana guard,but it'll sit like a 4wd.
a nice and low ride height could be done with 235's (with the right offset) though
a nice and low ride height could be done with 235's (with the right offset) though
#14
_nial8r_
_nial8r_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 May 2009 - 01:04 PM
the biggest problem with trying to get decent tyres under the back is getting a nice ride height.i have seen 275's under a standard torana guard,but it'll sit like a 4wd.
a nice and low ride height could be done with 235's (with the right offset) though
Thx moot, the last thing i want is a 4x4 Torana, i would be happy if i can get the 235's to sit under just nice with out it being totally on its guts, just a nice ride height that isnt gonna cause me problems
#15
LS1LX
-
- Members
-
- 1,931 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Sydney
- Joined: 22-November 05
Posted 28 May 2009 - 07:02 PM
I run an A9X type mechanical guage with the addition of some autometer guages too.
I didnt cut any humps anywhere champ.
I didnt cut any humps anywhere champ.
#16
_UNVSM8_
_UNVSM8_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 May 2009 - 07:08 PM
i have 235/45/17 on the rear of mine with no problems at all i have taken the springs out before and with rolled guards they sit right up there no problems!
Ben
Ben
#17
_nial8r_
_nial8r_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 May 2009 - 08:41 PM
i have 235/45/17 on the rear of mine with no problems at all i have taken the springs out before and with rolled guards they sit right up there no problems!
Ben
hi Ben thx for the info on the rear tyres fitting under the arse end but are you running the same size on the front or did you get tyre scrapage on the lower gaurd and inner ??? on my old Torana i used to run 245/50/14 on all 4 and i didnt seem to have any dramas but that was about 14 yrs aho now....... shit im getting old now
Cheers Lee
#18
_the gts_
_the gts_
-
- Guests
Posted 02 June 2009 - 10:34 PM
I have 235/45/17 on the front of mine. it is possible
- you need to modify the lower front section of the guard or it will scrape
- you will need to slightly modify the back inner guard where the 2 panels meet and are spot welded together
- if you use UC upper control arms you will need to modify the lower section of the firewall, sounds hard but is easy
- I dont think you can have standard torana offset, Mine is +38 commodore
- 6mm plate restricting turning circle on lower control arms where the tie rod meets at full lock
If you do not do all of the above you will have the 4WD look!
mine has CRS 2" drop stubs, aftermarket commodore front rotors, commodore offset wheels and UC upper control arms. with the above mods it will sit on the bump stops and almost go full lock without rubbing anywhere.
you can not do any more than the above and without the 6mm plate you will just rub on the rear section of chassis rail on full lock.
It would be a lot easier to go with a thinner, lower profile front tyre. This option will help give you a better stance at the front a lot cheaper and easier!
- you need to modify the lower front section of the guard or it will scrape
- you will need to slightly modify the back inner guard where the 2 panels meet and are spot welded together
- if you use UC upper control arms you will need to modify the lower section of the firewall, sounds hard but is easy
- I dont think you can have standard torana offset, Mine is +38 commodore
- 6mm plate restricting turning circle on lower control arms where the tie rod meets at full lock
If you do not do all of the above you will have the 4WD look!
mine has CRS 2" drop stubs, aftermarket commodore front rotors, commodore offset wheels and UC upper control arms. with the above mods it will sit on the bump stops and almost go full lock without rubbing anywhere.
you can not do any more than the above and without the 6mm plate you will just rub on the rear section of chassis rail on full lock.
It would be a lot easier to go with a thinner, lower profile front tyre. This option will help give you a better stance at the front a lot cheaper and easier!
Edited by the gts, 02 June 2009 - 10:41 PM.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
