74 replies to this topic

[Steve TPF]

Yes, I realise they have to change the bearings as well, just wondering if they had to relocate the retaining collar or anything like that. I'd feel pretty stupid if I got them back and they didn't fit.

So HZ seals and new bearings and I'm good to go. Thanks all.

[enderwigginau]

To fit the seals requires removing the bearings

So they can't just "fit the seals"
So its new bearings and seals time

And since HQ never had disc rears... try HZ or WB rear

Most diff shops aren't as knowledgable as you Neil

[Steve TPF]

I'm also interested in that one. One guy said he could arrange it, but didn't say anything about costs. It seemed there were enough interested people to make it worthwhile though.

[dattoman]

I think the issue was not enough takers
Especially ones with the cash in hand to pay upfront

Chopchop would be the best to answer this though as he did the research

[Steve TPF]

Can you give us a cost estimate so that interested parties can start saving?

[enderwigginau]

keep us informed

[Steve TPF]

I'm confused about my rear wheel bearings. Got replacement bearing kit inc. seals and collars, but they are self-contained bearings, with a cylindrical casing. Inspection of my UC shows it has tapered roller bearings. Did I get sent the wrong bearings? The Gregory's manual shows a picture of the rear axle (disc type) with the non-tapered bearings, which look like the ones I have received. This picture also shows the axle as having extremely coarse splines. Mine have 23. It doesn't show any picture of the drum-type axle. Did they use different bearings?

[yel327]

AFAIK disc brake rear ends use the same bearings they just have a collar/seal behind the bearing to account for the caliper carrier. They should all have fine spline axles too.

[Steve TPF]

So it seems I was sent the wrong bearings then. Also I'll be in need of the spacers... Any suggestions?

Edited by Steve TPF, 04 January 2010 - 06:27 PM.

[TerrA LX]

There are two different types/styles of bearings that do much the same job, and both styles, tapered two piece and the captive type you have are available to fit these axles.

Matter of opinion which is better, I along with some believe the captive type you have to be superior, as would have the supplier, that's probably why he gave this type to you,
Other people believe the tapered two piece bearing to be better...

[Steve TPF]

Except the axle housing has a tapered receiver, which means the captive type won't fit. If all the toranas used the same bearing why would he make this mistake?

[TerrA LX]

Except the axle housing has a tapered receiver...

Just take it out.

[Steve TPF]

So it's removable? I thought it was part of the housing.

Ok, so if I take out the inner receiver I still need a spacer to take up the extra thickness of the caliper mounting plate. I'm guessing these aren't readily available...

Edited by Steve TPF, 04 January 2010 - 07:39 PM.

[TerrA LX]

Same as the tapered bearing in the front disc, two piece = the bearing and the cone
tapered bearings

Either bearing will need the spacer.

Edited by TerrA LX, 04 January 2010 - 07:47 PM.

[Steve TPF]

Yeah, thanks, I get the point about the bearings, but where do I gt the spacer?

[rodomo]

There are 2 different seals.
2 different depths/widths/thicknesses if that makes sense?
You need the disc brake ones (thicker/wider) if converting from drum to disc.

Edited by rodomo, 04 January 2010 - 10:07 PM.

[Steve TPF]

I have the disc brake seals, but they don't seem thick enough to compensate for the missing spacer.

[Steve TPF]

I hate to double-post, but i can't add to my previous one.

Checked today and the new seals don't make up the difference. A spacer will be needed. But that's now a moot point. With the standard axle in place, the disc sits too far out - there's no room for the pad between the caliper and the disc. The disc brake axle must have the wheel mounting flange set in closer to the axle housing (which makes sense now I think about it because this will maintain the same track width). So fitting new seals and bearings to the original axles won't help at all - the disc brake axles will be required.

[Toranavista]

I hate to double-post, but i can't add to my previous one.

Checked today and the new seals don't make up the difference. A spacer will be needed. But that's now a moot point. With the standard axle in place, the disc sits too far out - there's no room for the pad between the caliper and the disc. The disc brake axle must have the wheel mounting flange set in closer to the axle housing (which makes sense now I think about it because this will maintain the same track width). So fitting new seals and bearings to the original axles won't help at all - the disc brake axles will be required.

I think the problem is you are getting advice to get HZ - WB disc bearings. They will need the 1/4 inch spacer. To do the conversion without the spacer you need the later commodore VB-VK salisbury kit which has the sam bearing but a thicker seal. You may be able to buy the seals. Alternaively I think others have cut down an old bearing ring for the spacer.

[Steve TPF]

Thanks for that, but the spacer's the easy part really. The real issue is that the drum brake axles won't work with the discs. I need the disc brake axles (which will presumably have the spacers on them anyway).

[enderwigginau]

It has been done many times in the past, using drum axles, std bearing (or UC disc brake bearing which AFAIK is the same part anyway) and the HZ disc brake seal.

I would suggest you check to ensure the bearing that has been pressed on is correct. �I have LX Drum and UC Disc axles here and the bearing is identical. �The wheel track will be slightly wider (<1/4" I think) with the discs.

Grant..