Good work Matt!
Gary's sandblasting comes in handy hey! Ive had a shitload of stuff done lately!
He was round the other day and mentioned that you'd be doing some plastic welding at work, looks like you are definitely getting into it!
I'll have to pop round and say gday next time your down at renee and gary's joint!
LH SL TORANA 173 TO EFI 5L TH700 BW 3.45 LSD
Started by
_LH SLR 3300_
, Jun 27 2009 01:50 PM
370 replies to this topic
#51
orangeLJ
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Posted 13 August 2009 - 09:59 AM
#52
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 13 August 2009 - 03:52 PM
What colour are you painting the car?
I have a set of silver 15x7 B45 simmons on my vk that I'm thinking of selling if you're interested.
I haven't 100% decided yet. Not red, yellow, white, or blue. Will be a factory Torana colour though. Yeah I'm interested in the B45s, PM me with a price, silver simmons will look good with almost any colour. Thanks Matt
#53
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 13 August 2009 - 03:59 PM
Good work Matt!
Gary's sandblasting comes in handy hey! Ive had a shitload of stuff done lately!
He was round the other day and mentioned that you'd be doing some plastic welding at work, looks like you are definitely getting into it!
I'll have to pop round and say gday next time your down at renee and gary's joint!
Thanks Chris.
It's a shame he can't blast complete cars, ask him & he'll tell you my Torana needs it desperately. I'll be up his place sooner or later to help him replace the lower beaver tail on his Torana so may catch up with you then. Cheers Matt
#54
_nial8r_
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Posted 13 August 2009 - 06:36 PM
top job on the heater box Matt 
i reckon i should be able to pull that mod off but is the plastic welder gun sorta the same as a stanard heat gun ???
i reckon i should be able to pull that mod off but is the plastic welder gun sorta the same as a stanard heat gun ???
#55
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 13 August 2009 - 06:58 PM
Thanks Lee 
yeah the principle is the same, ie the welder i used for this job uses hot air to melt the plastic, however it uses diferent heat ranges & air speed to "weld" different types of plastic. It also has different sized nozzels for welding small & confined areas. I use a hot air gun for some repairs on plastic bumpers but I haven't tried to actally weld with one yet. I have also used a plastic welder that was like a soldering iron, but the procedure for repairing rigid plastics was different to that for flexible plastics & used a different heating tip with a "hole"in it that you fed the filler rod through while welding. Let me know how you go using the hot air gun as I'm still learning plastic welding & willing to try different methods.
yeah the principle is the same, ie the welder i used for this job uses hot air to melt the plastic, however it uses diferent heat ranges & air speed to "weld" different types of plastic. It also has different sized nozzels for welding small & confined areas. I use a hot air gun for some repairs on plastic bumpers but I haven't tried to actally weld with one yet. I have also used a plastic welder that was like a soldering iron, but the procedure for repairing rigid plastics was different to that for flexible plastics & used a different heating tip with a "hole"in it that you fed the filler rod through while welding. Let me know how you go using the hot air gun as I'm still learning plastic welding & willing to try different methods.
#56
_BCR42Y_
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Posted 14 August 2009 - 12:14 AM
Anytime Matt , I will definetely take up your offer on the heaterbox mod, not sure if the one I have at the moment will be the best to use, or whether I should source one (I will leave this up to you to decide once you have had a chance to assess mine, it has some chips etc in it).
I agree, silver Simmons B45's will look good with most colours and suit torana's well.
With regards to clearance with bigger wheels, when my cousin purchased the SS it had 18 x 7/8's on it and from memory apart from lipping of the guards and the usual mod to the front footwell's it had no problem with clearance (The car was quite low also). With the rears, I remember the car having spacers to push the wheels out a bit due to there offset, but that was probably as the diff was shortened to suit a Torana and the previous owner went for commodore stud pattern, you could probably take this into consideration when you are getting the diff modified?
, I will definetely take up your offer on the heaterbox mod, not sure if the one I have at the moment will be the best to use, or whether I should source one (I will leave this up to you to decide once you have had a chance to assess mine, it has some chips etc in it).I agree, silver Simmons B45's will look good with most colours and suit torana's well.
With regards to clearance with bigger wheels, when my cousin purchased the SS it had 18 x 7/8's on it and from memory apart from lipping of the guards and the usual mod to the front footwell's it had no problem with clearance (The car was quite low also). With the rears, I remember the car having spacers to push the wheels out a bit due to there offset, but that was probably as the diff was shortened to suit a Torana and the previous owner went for commodore stud pattern, you could probably take this into consideration when you are getting the diff modified?
Edited by BCR42Y, 14 August 2009 - 12:19 AM.
#57
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 14 August 2009 - 10:22 PM
One of the biggest problems I've had trying to build this car is sourcing parts. i'm continualy having to search places like ebay & it's very frustrating because there are alot of shonky vendors trying to cash in on the muscle car restoration scene. One part in particular i've had no end of trouble trying to find is a decent bonnet. The ones i do find i end up being outbid on even if i bid $300 or more. So I decided i had no option but to repair the one i had. It was in poor condition with dents, plenty of coats paint & worse still, rust.
It doesn't look so bad in those pics, but this is what i found after I took a buff sander to it.
Using an old Commodore door skin, I began to fabricate some replacement sections. Being an aussie car like the Torana, Commodores are made out of sheet metal, not sh*t metal like Jap cars, so the repaired area will have the same strength & integrity as the rest of the panel.
If you look close you may see tiny dots on the surface of the rust panel i'm making. As the commie door skin was of a different shape to the Torana bonnet, I had to "dress" it up into the correct shape using a curved dolly mounted in the bench vice. All the dots will eventualy be joined & the panel will have the correct shape, so I won't have to build it up with layers of bog.
Once I had the rust panel finished, I placed it on the bonnet & scribed a cut line & removed the rusted section with my air hacksaw. This is what was underneath.
LHSL very kindly donated another damaged bonnet for me to cut the frame section out of (thanks Phillip) but i decided to make my own section. The Commie door skin came in handy again.
Some marking, cutting & dressing up & the replacement frame section started to take shape. Lots of trial fitting here to get it right.
Once I was satisfied it was the right shape & fit, I cut the rusted section away.
After treating the surface rust & cleaning up the new section, I welded it in.
A bit of grinding & sanding & the repair is starting to take shape.
After applying plenty of zinc weld thru primer to prevent the rust coming back too soon, I started to fit the outter skin section. Some more trial fitting here too.
To avoid too much distortion & so I can use a body file later on, I silicon bronze welded the panel on. I used the same principle as with MIG welding by doing tack welds first.
Once tacked in place, I turned the fold edge over.
I then finished welding the skin section, ground it back, then using a body file & a guide coat, began to search for low spots & distortion.
Thankfully, the distortion was minor so I applied a light skim of bog, sanded it back & applied a couple of coats of epoxy etch primer to seal it.
I'm not 100% satisfied with this repair so i'm going to continue my search for a good bonnet (not on ebay though), but at least I can either re-repair this one to my satisfaction, or if need be, use it until a better one turns up. Either way i won't have to take out a second mortgage & make some POS ebay scumbag rich just to get a decent bonnet for my car anymore.
It doesn't look so bad in those pics, but this is what i found after I took a buff sander to it.
Using an old Commodore door skin, I began to fabricate some replacement sections. Being an aussie car like the Torana, Commodores are made out of sheet metal, not sh*t metal like Jap cars, so the repaired area will have the same strength & integrity as the rest of the panel.
If you look close you may see tiny dots on the surface of the rust panel i'm making. As the commie door skin was of a different shape to the Torana bonnet, I had to "dress" it up into the correct shape using a curved dolly mounted in the bench vice. All the dots will eventualy be joined & the panel will have the correct shape, so I won't have to build it up with layers of bog.
Once I had the rust panel finished, I placed it on the bonnet & scribed a cut line & removed the rusted section with my air hacksaw. This is what was underneath.
LHSL very kindly donated another damaged bonnet for me to cut the frame section out of (thanks Phillip) but i decided to make my own section. The Commie door skin came in handy again.
Some marking, cutting & dressing up & the replacement frame section started to take shape. Lots of trial fitting here to get it right.
Once I was satisfied it was the right shape & fit, I cut the rusted section away.
After treating the surface rust & cleaning up the new section, I welded it in.
A bit of grinding & sanding & the repair is starting to take shape.
After applying plenty of zinc weld thru primer to prevent the rust coming back too soon, I started to fit the outter skin section. Some more trial fitting here too.
To avoid too much distortion & so I can use a body file later on, I silicon bronze welded the panel on. I used the same principle as with MIG welding by doing tack welds first.
Once tacked in place, I turned the fold edge over.
I then finished welding the skin section, ground it back, then using a body file & a guide coat, began to search for low spots & distortion.
Thankfully, the distortion was minor so I applied a light skim of bog, sanded it back & applied a couple of coats of epoxy etch primer to seal it.
I'm not 100% satisfied with this repair so i'm going to continue my search for a good bonnet (not on ebay though), but at least I can either re-repair this one to my satisfaction, or if need be, use it until a better one turns up. Either way i won't have to take out a second mortgage & make some POS ebay scumbag rich just to get a decent bonnet for my car anymore.
#58
View GaragePosted 14 August 2009 - 10:46 PM
Can I ask why you're not satisfied? It looks pretty good in the pics
#59
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 14 August 2009 - 11:08 PM
It distorted a little too much for my liking. I wanted to metal finish it instead of using bog. This repair was a bit of a learning curve for me & i would do some parts of the repair different second time around.Can I ask why you're not satisfied? It looks pretty good in the pics
#60
_nial8r_
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Posted 15 August 2009 - 08:21 AM
HI Matt, that came up god mate but i know what ya mean about not being happy with it, look how many times i did my engine bay inners before i was happy with it, and everyone was saying to me there was nothing wrong with it the first time ( PIGS ARSE ) but hey it looks like you spent a few hrs doing the repair and like you said you might just have to live with it till you come across another one, and im sure to most ppl they wouldnt even know it has been repaired, anyway looks good all round well done
Cheers Lee
Cheers Lee
#62
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 15 August 2009 - 08:37 AM
Yeah i think some of your perfectionist streak has rubbed off on to me 
lol. I wasn't even going to post this, but I thought, Lee can see the silicon bronze welding See how you can file it with a body file? If you really want to you can pull the low areas up with an easy beat & near metal finish the repair, unlike MIG welding. This weld distorted too much so trying to pull the lows up would've caused the panel to oil can, so I had to use a skim of bog. I'm still learning to use this Silicon Bronze welder & I think I may have had the heat too high. Anyway, I'm off to pickup my motor WOO HOO
lol. I wasn't even going to post this, but I thought, Lee can see the silicon bronze welding See how you can file it with a body file? If you really want to you can pull the low areas up with an easy beat & near metal finish the repair, unlike MIG welding. This weld distorted too much so trying to pull the lows up would've caused the panel to oil can, so I had to use a skim of bog. I'm still learning to use this Silicon Bronze welder & I think I may have had the heat too high. Anyway, I'm off to pickup my motor WOO HOO
#63
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 15 August 2009 - 08:41 AM
Thanks Chris. Your hatch build has been another source of inspiration for me, but alas, neither of my Toranas will ever be of the calibre & quality of your's. Still i'm happy with them & that's what counts right? Tell me, where did you get the zinc coating done on your beast? I want to get some parts coated but haven't had time to search for a place to do it. Cheers Mattwell done matt
#65
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 15 August 2009 - 07:00 PM
Went & picked up my engine today. Yee Haa As it came out of a complete running regoed VN Calais, I thought I'll put it back in the car & run the cam in etc so it's ready to start & drive as soon as i put it in the Torana. Also it won't be sitting around while I finish painting the engine bay, rebuild the suspension etc. It's almost a shame to pull it apart, but then it's going towards a more worthwhile project, namely the Torana.
The fuel rail & throttle body covers are off to painted. I'm even going bright silver tinter with clear over the top or blood red as some of the SV5000's with the Group A engines had. What does everbody think? Red or silver engine covers.
As it came out of a complete running regoed VN Calais, I thought I'll put it back in the car & run the cam in etc so it's ready to start & drive as soon as i put it in the Torana. Also it won't be sitting around while I finish painting the engine bay, rebuild the suspension etc. It's almost a shame to pull it apart, but then it's going towards a more worthwhile project, namely the Torana.The fuel rail & throttle body covers are off to painted. I'm even going bright silver tinter with clear over the top or blood red as some of the SV5000's with the Group A engines had. What does everbody think? Red or silver engine covers.
#66
_ass308_
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Posted 15 August 2009 - 07:07 PM
i got the zinc done at the bumperbar place.
there in ingelburn.all metal bumpers.there ok.
mate u have gone far more than i did.
good idea with the motor.
what head gaskets did thet use ?
there in ingelburn.all metal bumpers.there ok.
mate u have gone far more than i did.
good idea with the motor.
what head gaskets did thet use ?
#67
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 15 August 2009 - 07:52 PM
Cast 0.30 over ACL flat top pistons, mild port job & three angle valve job k-line guides on the heads, port matched manifold, 71mm throttle body, Crane 268 cam, ACL gaskets all through. Will get it running in the Torana then fit a higher lift cam & memcal package. It goes good as is now though, gas it & it bombs the back tyres 
#68
_nial8r_
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Posted 17 August 2009 - 08:00 PM
good to see that you have got ya donk back now matt 
i bet ya cant wait till its under the bonnet of the Torana as for the fuel rail and throttle body covers i couldnt really say what colour as you havent told us what colour you going on the Torana 
or is that a suttle hint ??? red or silver ?? you already have a silver one and you said a couple of posts ago not red SO WHATS IT GONNA BEEEEEEE ?? im in the same boat and have thought of about 5 different colours but i change my mind like a chick in a shoe shop lol
i bet ya cant wait till its under the bonnet of the Torana as for the fuel rail and throttle body covers i couldnt really say what colour as you havent told us what colour you going on the Torana or is that a suttle hint ??? red or silver ?? you already have a silver one and you said a couple of posts ago not red SO WHATS IT GONNA BEEEEEEE ?? im in the same boat and have thought of about 5 different colours but i change my mind like a chick in a shoe shop lol
#69
_doogs_
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Posted 17 August 2009 - 11:13 PM
Nice repairs and nice project mate. I think sometimes we are our biggest critics.
#70
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 23 August 2009 - 08:27 PM
After weddings & other family commitments taking up my spare time of late, I finally got to work on the Torana today First I had a little bit of body filler work to do, mainly to fill grind marks & scratches from welding up excess holes etc. Then, because the engine bay has been back to raw steel for a few weeks, it had a little surface rust showing, so a good hour of scrubbing the whole bay with deoxidine & scotchbrite pads had it almost ready for priming. I've already posted pics of the bay in it's raw state so I did'nt see the point in posting more. Anyhow, a quick cleanup with thinners & some masking & it's ready for stage one. I used a PPG product called DP40 which is a 2K epoxy etch primer as the first coats.
stage two was the hi-build 2K PPG primer. This stuff is excellent. A 6:1+1.5 ratio primer, it has great filling properties so with a good sand the bay should come out really good. The batteries on my camera were starting to die & it was getting dark so only got these pics, but as of now, with three good coats of primer & a guide coat, the engine bay is nearly ready for painting. I'll sand it after work during the week & hopefully next weekend it'll be painted.
First I had a little bit of body filler work to do, mainly to fill grind marks & scratches from welding up excess holes etc. Then, because the engine bay has been back to raw steel for a few weeks, it had a little surface rust showing, so a good hour of scrubbing the whole bay with deoxidine & scotchbrite pads had it almost ready for priming. I've already posted pics of the bay in it's raw state so I did'nt see the point in posting more. Anyhow, a quick cleanup with thinners & some masking & it's ready for stage one. I used a PPG product called DP40 which is a 2K epoxy etch primer as the first coats.stage two was the hi-build 2K PPG primer. This stuff is excellent. A 6:1+1.5 ratio primer, it has great filling properties so with a good sand the bay should come out really good. The batteries on my camera were starting to die & it was getting dark so only got these pics, but as of now, with three good coats of primer & a guide coat, the engine bay is nearly ready for painting. I'll sand it after work during the week & hopefully next weekend it'll be painted.
#71
_slr253_
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Posted 23 August 2009 - 09:21 PM
Congrats on the progress and your workmanship so far. If only I had some of your skills...
I'm looking forward to following this build till the end! Keep up the great work!
Cheers,
I'm looking forward to following this build till the end! Keep up the great work!
Cheers,
#72
_nial8r_
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Posted 23 August 2009 - 09:27 PM
that has come up good Matt, so how long before i can pic it up 
with a bit of luck i might have some pics to post up by the end of the week, i forgot to ask ya on the phone if you have decided on a colour yet or is that part still up in the air ???
with a bit of luck i might have some pics to post up by the end of the week, i forgot to ask ya on the phone if you have decided on a colour yet or is that part still up in the air ???
#73
_torana_umunga74_
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Posted 23 August 2009 - 09:31 PM
i cant believe you couldnt find a bonnet. i sold two for 50 bucks each. no rust to write home about.crazy. looks like its comin along great mate!
#74
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 23 August 2009 - 09:45 PM
Congrats on the progress and your workmanship so far. If only I had some of your skills...
I'm looking forward to following this build till the end! Keep up the great work!
Cheers,
Thanks for your words of encouragement. I'm a panel beater by trade, so most of the repairs i've done to this car are second nature to me, but things like the plastic welding, painting, auto electrics, mechanicals etc I've taught myself by reading heaps of product manuals, books etc & just having a go. I've made a few mistakes as is normal with any learning process but my main aim with this car is to do almost everything myself. Like alot of people on this forum, i'm building my car while supporting a family, paying rent etc on a wage, so I haven't got heaps of coin to throw at. Doing as much of the work myself as possible keeps the costs down & makes it affordable for me.
Cheers Matt
#75
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 23 August 2009 - 09:55 PM
that has come up good Matt, so how long before i can pic it up
Well I've heard the owner's a real fussy bugger so I gotta make sure it's right first
I have decided on a colour, well I owned an LH painted this colour years ago, anyhow I mixed up some of this colour at work & showed it to the wife & she loved it. I originally wanted to paint it Chamois, which was the blue Torana's factory colour, but she talked me out of it.Anyhow i'll let you know but for here & now it's a secret, but I will say it's going to be a factory Torana colour that isn't very common on this model.
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