heaps of degreaser and elbow grease should do it
but if your lazy blasting will work i spose
if your not reusing your old rubbers/ball joints?
MRLXSS - The Complete Build Thread
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MRLXSS
, Jul 03 2009 09:23 AM
823 replies to this topic
#327
mr5000
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Posted 20 August 2010 - 08:06 AM
if you wanna tarp off a corner off ya garage ya can use my sand blaster
beleive me the shit goes every were
beleive me the shit goes every were
Edited by mr5000, 20 August 2010 - 08:07 AM.
#328
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Posted 20 August 2010 - 09:02 AM
I'll see how i go with the wire wheel Ryan... Otherwise i'll put a tarp up and go nuts.
After seeing heaths thread with the KBS paint, I'll probably go down that path (Or POR15) Looks nice and easy and gives a good quality finish.
I can't believe how oily and dirty all these parts are!!!
After seeing heaths thread with the KBS paint, I'll probably go down that path (Or POR15) Looks nice and easy and gives a good quality finish.
I can't believe how oily and dirty all these parts are!!!
#329
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Posted 20 August 2010 - 09:31 AM
I like wire cup brushes. But I always end up like a porcupine with metal spines. Ouch! If POR-15 is unavailable, will killrust work fine?
#330
_gen3torrie_
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Posted 21 August 2010 - 11:03 AM
use KBS that stuff is nuts 
my pictures dont do it justice... and what cam you thinking of going for???
my pictures dont do it justice... and what cam you thinking of going for???
#331
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Posted 21 August 2010 - 01:06 PM
My arms look okay in the KBS paint but I used an old stuffed brush that was full of trash and it did show up. If I actually took some care I would have used a better brush and I think the result would have been far more impressive. Do clean things thoroughly, I had access to a sandblaster, and not everyone is going to be able to do that obviously but a cup style wire wheel on an angle grinder is not a bad substitute. Yes you do end up like a porcupine haha. I think two thin coats is ideal, and get it from Heritage Holden in Lilydale if you can't find anywhere else that stocks it.
#332
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Posted 21 August 2010 - 06:20 PM
Yeah, i spent this morning cleaning all the parts up.... Some petrol to lift the gunk, hi pressure hose to clean it off, then a wiring brush on the drill.... Worked a treat! I'll grab some pics tomorrow, I've very happy with how well they cleaned up. Can't wait to paint them yet!
#333
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Posted 21 August 2010 - 06:44 PM
^ Yeah that's another point Chris, I guess there is more than one way to skin a cat. Needs to get up on a 4p Hoist to see how it all sits when under weight...
Matt, i have just finished chasing my vibration issues and originally thought it was my tailshaft which was bent so had a new stronger one made, it reduced about 85% of the problem. I had the luxury of a mates 4 post hoist and we could get a good look at the whole pinion angle. With my car sitting so low it was it obviously changes all the factory angles and made for a very ordinary long distant drive. I have used hq engine mounts to lower the engine, then raised the gearbox slightly and then used top adjustable arms to fine tune the angles. Although not ideal my diff pinion actually faces up around 1 deg but its the only way we could get it stop vibrating. Also found that although the shaft was brand new the angles i had stuffed the new unis
#334
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Posted 21 August 2010 - 10:41 PM
Do remember that a universal joint is not designed to connect two shafts that are on the same axis. That is bad and it will destroy the uni
#335
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Posted 21 August 2010 - 11:07 PM
Page 120 of the current Street Machine mag - tech talk on pinion angles!
#336
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Posted 22 August 2010 - 12:07 AM
Do remember that a universal joint is not designed to connect two shafts that are on the same axis. That is bad and it will destroy the uni
To be honest, I got no idea what angle anything is on underneath the car... The uni's are easily destroyed... So i assume that my angles are not good.
Page 120 of the current Street Machine mag - tech talk on pinion angles!
I better grab that.... might help me understand my problems!!! At the moment i have no clue!
#337
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Posted 22 August 2010 - 10:18 AM
Yep the article is a good read. It highlights the point that the only thing you need to worry about is that the horizontal centrelines are parallel (between the pinion and the engine/gearbox). It's this relationship that is most important - so ignore the physical direction the pinion faces with regards to exact level, rake, the ground etc etc... relationship, relationship, relationship!!
The other main point to note, is that the static pinion angle can be set (negative), to allow movement once under power.
The other main point to note, is that the static pinion angle can be set (negative), to allow movement once under power.
#338
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#339
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Posted 22 August 2010 - 05:27 PM
Yep they need to be parallel but specifically not concentric. If the tailshaft axis/centreline is the same as these, the unis will be brinnelled and you will frOck them.Yep the article is a good read. It highlights the point that the only thing you need to worry about is that the horizontal centrelines are parallel (between the pinion and the engine/gearbox).
#340
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Posted 22 August 2010 - 05:52 PM
Do remember that a universal joint is not designed to connect two shafts that are on the same axis. That is bad and it will destroy the uni
To be honest, I got no idea what angle anything is on underneath the car... The uni's are easily destroyed... So i assume that my angles are not good.Page 120 of the current Street Machine mag - tech talk on pinion angles!
I better grab that.... might help me understand my problems!!! At the moment i have no clue!
Yeah that article in SM explains it pretty clearly. Matt I'm in same boat in that I wouldn't have a clue what angle anything is underneath my car. If the rear uni destroys itself again, then it will probably be worth measuring everything and finding a solution.
If you don't fix it straight away then maybe a tailshaft hoop would be a wise investment.
#341
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Posted 22 August 2010 - 06:51 PM
Yep, we're on the same page mate.... I reckon thats a very good and safe idea.
#342
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Posted 22 August 2010 - 10:24 PM
Here are some progress shots... nothing really exciting...
I should have got a before shot of this stuff.... The dirt & grease was about 5-10mm thick all over it!!! Now it's clean and basically ready for a lick of paint!
Also got started on the wiring.... Either going to run it under the lip, or inside the guard.... So far i'm liking the idea of it running under the rail... Very easy and simple!
Engine will probably get started on later in the week.... Crank is an AUSCRANK (Thats whats stamped on it). Going to chase up the numbers stamped on it and try and suss out exactly what it is.
Everything else seems to be pretty good.... Just going to machine up the surfaces, clean it all up, new rings, bearings, cam, springs etc and also reco the heads... I'm really looking forward to dropping this sucker in!!! It's going to go well for what it is!
I should have got a before shot of this stuff.... The dirt & grease was about 5-10mm thick all over it!!! Now it's clean and basically ready for a lick of paint!
Also got started on the wiring.... Either going to run it under the lip, or inside the guard.... So far i'm liking the idea of it running under the rail... Very easy and simple!
Engine will probably get started on later in the week.... Crank is an AUSCRANK (Thats whats stamped on it). Going to chase up the numbers stamped on it and try and suss out exactly what it is.
Everything else seems to be pretty good.... Just going to machine up the surfaces, clean it all up, new rings, bearings, cam, springs etc and also reco the heads... I'm really looking forward to dropping this sucker in!!! It's going to go well for what it is!
#343
_Brad1979UC_
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Posted 22 August 2010 - 11:07 PM
I'm guessing you used degreaser and that high pressure gadget to get all the crap off the kframe??
I reckon run wiring under the lip in the engine bay in dune tubing, still accessible yet tucked neatly away out of sight.
I reckon run wiring under the lip in the engine bay in dune tubing, still accessible yet tucked neatly away out of sight.
Edited by Brad1979UC, 22 August 2010 - 11:07 PM.
#344
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Posted 23 August 2010 - 07:49 AM
I'm guessing you used degreaser and that high pressure gadget to get all the crap off the kframe??
I reckon run wiring under the lip in the engine bay in dune tubing, still accessible yet tucked neatly away out of sight.
Yeah, i use petrol that i scrub on with a brush.... works HEAPS better than out of the can degreaser.
The wiring looks terrible at the moment... Hope i remember how it all goes back together! HAHA!
#345
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Posted 23 August 2010 - 07:54 AM
ill pick up the press this week some time
#346
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Posted 23 August 2010 - 09:01 AM
Engine will probably get started on later in the week.... Crank is an AUSCRANK (Thats whats stamped on it). Going to chase up the numbers stamped on it and try and suss out exactly what it is.
Found out what crank it is... It's a 5 Litre crank, it was built in 1994 for the Group A car of Terry Finnigan. So i can say that i have a V8 Supercar crank! HAHA
Edited by MRLXSS, 23 August 2010 - 09:04 AM.
#347
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Posted 27 August 2010 - 06:21 PM
Cleaning those control arms is a pain, just did a set for mine cause im going back to rubber bushes and wanted them all painted and ready to change over.
#348
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Posted 27 August 2010 - 07:00 PM
Cleaning those control arms is a pain, just did a set for mine cause im going back to rubber bushes and wanted them all painted and ready to change over.
why are you using rubber ones again? What are the pros and con of rubber vs polyurethane ? I only ask this question because I'm going to have to do the bushes and stuff eventually
#349
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Posted 27 August 2010 - 07:31 PM
Cleaning those control arms is a pain, just did a set for mine cause im going back to rubber bushes and wanted them all painted and ready to change over.
why are you using rubber ones again? What are the pros and con of rubber vs polyurethane ? I only ask this question because I'm going to have to do the bushes and stuff eventually
differences of opinions around but personally for the street i think rubber is fine and a little easier on the car. Read some info on this link
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/index.php?showtopic=46246
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