445 replies to this topic

[LXCHEV]

Haha thanks guys!

Matty - Knox Cruise nights are not out of the question for me, sounds like the perfect target!

I gotta stop mucking around, here's some updates for what little forward progress there has been.... I'm finally on the right track after a few more setbacks...

My Uncle had this stock 2-bolt 350 Chev that he removed from his '69 Impala... the plan was to shout it some bearings and gaskets, plonk it in the car, and go cruising. Back on the road nice and cheap!



But a quick mock-up of my extractors (lucky I checked this before starting) - revealed no spark plug clearance. My pipes were hand built to suit angled plug heads, BUGGER!!
The block also turned out to be 0.060" up already, which didn't worry me, but it became too hard. Even using my old heads after having them repaired wasn't going to give me decent comp without changing bottom end parts... so it defeated the whole purpose of this "cheap" exercise....



Next please....

Deb and I cruised down to see Milan (who owns the MENTLE Camaro) and picked up this beauty for only $350... a virgin bore 2-bolt 350 010 complete short block, looked mint:





My engine machinist seemed real happy with this too, but after a kero wash, he found some cracks in the valley, DAMN!!! We also found lumps of melted alloy and blackened components... turns out this one had been in a decent fire. Oh well, not to be.

Next please...

Luckily Milan is a top bloke and immediately said he'd swap it for another block... another road trip with the family....

D'oh - no more 2 bolt blocks left with 2 piece rear mains.. the gods are against me

Hang on, the gods are WITH me - this was my excuse to upgrade to a 4 bolt block, haha! What else was I going to do... so for an extra $150, we set off home yet again with block # 3:

This one's a virgin bore 4 bolt 350, in MINT condition:





Barely needed a bath in the hot tank this one, super clean water jackets, perfect bearings... should be a real good starting point. Turns out it's a later model 'crate' style block - exactly like what you'd buy from Eagle.
Just a couple of minor things we have to suss out - check out the shape of the sump mating surface for example where the dipstick runs - both sides have the curved shape.
But it bored up nicely at 0.020" too which means future rebuilds are now more flexible.

Over the last couple of months, things are finally now well under way. The block has been fitted with an ARP 4 bolt main stud kit, and has been bored, honed, and main tunnels done.

I've settled on the following parts:

* SCAT 9000 'Pro-Comp' series internally balanced 383 crank with Pro-Race 'race' series balancer
* SCAT 'Pro-Comp' 7/16 6" I beam rods
* SRP 0.020" forged flat tops
* Speed Pro rings
* Clevite bearings

I've now also opened up another can of worms, and started looking at hydraulic roller cams. I want to do something slightly different this time around, so I'm 95% sold on a hydro roller! Having trouble deciding on exact specs, but making progress...

So that's where I'm currently sitting... hopefully more updates real soon.

Edited by LXCHEV, 22 July 2011 - 02:01 PM.

[LXCHEV]

Some more forward progress.

Block is no longer virgin bore... freshly bored just shy of 0.020" :



ARP 4 bolt main stud kit fitted, so that the main tunnel could be checked and line honed:



Bores now honed and finished to 4.020". Block decked (zero deck height). Some de-burring in the valley to aid oil return flow:

[Struggler]

Looking good !!!

[MRLXSS]

Oh yeah!!!

[LXCHEV]

There's something exciting about block work hey! I can hear Tim Taylor grunting from here.

Correction to above - my finished deck height is actually going to end up being between 0.005" and 0.007".

Will post more pics tonight.

[LXCHEV]

Here's some photos for those of you who enjoy looking at fresh, shiney new engine parts!!

After a lot of research, and still very much on a tight budget, these are the parts I ended up selecting.. nothing fancy, but still very good quality gear..

Crankshaft:
Cast-iron SCAT 9000 'Pro-Comp' series, internally balanced.







Rods:
Forged SCAT 4340 'Pro-Comp' series 6" I-beams with ARP 7/16" cap screws.
These are specifically profiled for stroker clearance (check out the shape - they look awesome!)
I know Dennis doesn't like I-beams, but these babies will do the job nicely
Absolutely superior to any old factory I-beam.





Pistons:
The only expensive item I've bought so far... SRP 0.020" forged stroker flat tops. Sexy looking pistons!
They're forged from 4032 low expansion high silicon aluminium alloy so will be a nice street friendly piston.





We also found some very nice benefits of the later model block I'm using too... the crank dropped straight in, no clearancing required (as expected), but it's when the rods were dummied up that we found the block only needs an absolute tickle (old blocks require huge amounts of grinding). So it's all working out nicely so far.

[MRLXSS]

OH YEAH!!!! SEXY!!

[MRLXSS]

I Beams aren't as strong as H Beams, but I Beams are lighter and easier to balance... I Beams are normally fine for anything up to 5-600hp (Although I know a lot of pro stock cars running 7-800hp still running I Beams)

If you are chasing extreme HP, H Beams are hands down stronger than I Beams..

I beams are perfect for tough streeters!

The I and H refers to the shape of the piston when you are looking at it flat.

[LXCHEV]

Matt is on the money... if you lay the conrods on their sides, they will represent the letters H or I...



The conrods are indeed 2-piece (the big-ends separate). It just doesn't look it in the photo, cos it's all so nice and smooth and shiney and HOT!!

Edited by dattoman, 06 October 2021 - 12:09 AM.

[Tiny]

Mate..... AWESOME
I have a similar combo, scat 4340 forged crank, I got the scat H beam forged beams 5.7", and ended up with Aries slugs.
Mines gone over 8 grand and it loves it, mate... You will be WRAPPED with that combo!!

Can I ask what comp and cam you are heading for?

[LXCHEV]

8 grand mate, hahaha, why doesn't that surprise me

My static compression seems to be heading towards 10.0 again... hopefully a tiny bit higher. I wanted 10.5 originally, but I'm not gonna get it. Reason being I'm re-using my old heads. They were originally 72cc, but now seem to be measuring up around 76cc after being repaired. We'll be decking them as much as possible, but I'm anticipating a final comp ratio of anywhere between 10.0 and 10.1. Would love to just buy some new alloy AFR's with smaller chambers, but that ain't happening!

Cam choice - I'm still struggling with. Still keen on a hydraulic roller for something different. Backup plan is my old flat tappet hydraulic (that was a 241 @ 0.050 with .517 valve lift, on a 107 LSA). Dunno what to do. The low comp is a bit of a party pooper really.

Can you remind me what comp and cam you are running? And I know we have the same heads, but what size were your intake runners?

[Tiny]

Hehe yeah, 8 grand isn't somewhere I like to go too often, but if it needs it! I feel good knowing I can!!

Mine are the 220cc runners and 64cc chambers from memory, we got 10.6:1 comp this time around and it's unreal on bp ultimate!!

I've got a crower cam... Stuffed if I can recall the spec!! I'll have tong look it up! ( think it's listed in my build thread wherever that's gone!)

Sounds like it will be a tough combo mate! Shame you can't get a little more comp! But hey.... Ripe for boost!

[LXCHEV]

That's right, you have monster size heads! I'm jealous of your comp! haha.

I tried to look up your old Monaro thread but lucked out. No stress, I'll continue my camshaft research. Waiting on some more recommendations before I decide which way to go.

PS. No boost for my engine, but nitrous is something I would consider

[Tiny]

Hi mate!
I'm finally in front of my computer with my cam card!

Crower 00356
Grind number 294FDP
advertised specs:
Intake duration 294 .540 Lift
Exhaust duration 302 .558 Lift
105 degree LSA

Duration at 0.050 - Intake - 260 degrees - exhaust 266 degrees
Lobe lift Intake 3.60 - exhaust exhaust .372

Hope that helps dude

MMm nitrous! that's my next step i think
if your going to run teh gas, let the engine builder know so he can open up teh clearances a bit, that way.... no chance of butting rings or binding bearings

Thanks for the update man
If the weather holds off i might have an update from teh track with the new carby!
Cheers!

[MRLXSS]

Thats a pretty aggressive cam Tiny!

(I like that I can now kinda understand cam specs!)

[Tiny]

We were not playing matty !

this is a real engine and im just starting to tweak the most out of it in N/A befre we feed it some gas to really play,
but im still a whole league below the big guns!!

[mitchg]

I love this car. I think its a real, tough, true street car.

Rob, the old mans currently working on his to get ahead of you. May need to line them up again when they are both ready

[Tiny]

Definitely mitch!''Always look forward to a grudge match

[LXCHEV]

If your going to run the gas, let the engine builder know so he can open up the clearances a bit, that way.... no chance of butting rings or binding bearings

Already done mate!

If the weather holds off i might have an update from the track with the new carby!

Excellent, keep us posted, and good luck!

PS. Thanks for the great info too - damn that's a big cam

Edited by LXCHEV, 08 August 2011 - 10:00 PM.