Jump to content


rebuilding my front end


  • Please log in to reply
48 replies to this topic

#1 _gen3torrie_

_gen3torrie_
  • Guests

Posted 19 August 2009 - 11:53 PM

hey all

first thing on my list of modifying the torana is to get the handling right now i was just wondering what would be the best thing to do on my front end as i'm a bit of a dummy when it comes to handling lol.... should i get 330mm hoppers front and 300mm rear??? im running a 9 inch with 4.11 gears and a tru trak lokka should i bought.stole a vt v8 booster whole assembly


cheers josh

Edited by gen3torrie, 19 August 2009 - 11:57 PM.


#2 A9X

A9X

    A fortunate run

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,024 posts
  • Name:Welby
  • Location:Perth
  • Joined: 09-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 20 August 2009 - 12:05 AM

Not sure how much red bull your slurping there Josh, but ya might wanna ease off a bit.

Lets take this slowly.

You mentioned handling as first thing on your list but you ask questions about front and back brakes??

Personally, i think you might want to break things into groups.

Springs and shocks
sway bars
Brake package
there are even mounting rubber changes that will make a difference.

Go from there.

Have an overall look at what is most important and in what order and at what price.

Happy to offer some thoughts, if you want to get specific.

Welby

#3 _gen3torrie_

_gen3torrie_
  • Guests

Posted 20 August 2009 - 12:09 AM

i want something that'll handle well and brake well lol

i drink ALOT of red bull im twitching nah not really lol

#4 rodomo

rodomo

    To advertise here, call 13TORANA

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,018 posts
  • Name:R - O - B Dammit!
  • Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
  • Joined: 10-December 05

Posted 20 August 2009 - 12:12 AM

i want something that'll handle well and brake well lol


Buy a skate board

#5 dattoman

dattoman

    Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,484 posts
  • Name:Neil
  • Location:Perth Western Australia
  • Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
  • Joined: 04-February 07

Posted 20 August 2009 - 12:56 AM

Give me alot of money and 4 weeks with your front suspension
You will have everything you need for stop and turn

Have you had your diff made yet ?
If not... get it made to suit the brakes you want to run
Or if buying the Hoppers rear kit... 280 or 300 mm then buy that first and have them mount the brackets

What size wheels do you think your going to run
And whats your driving intentions
That will determine if your after big brakes , hard or soft bushes. and what size bars

So what do you want to actually achieve with this car ?

#6 _mello92_

_mello92_
  • Guests

Posted 20 August 2009 - 12:59 AM

Very much agree with dattomans final words.

If you want us to give you an idea of what to do, then you gotta tell us what its going to be for Josh.

#7 _Ben_

_Ben_
  • Guests

Posted 20 August 2009 - 01:12 AM

If i wanted to improve handling, I'd start with rubbers.

#8 76lxhatch

76lxhatch

    That was easy!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,187 posts
  • Location:Unzud
  • Car:SS
  • Joined: 04-August 08
Garage View Garage

Posted 20 August 2009 - 08:10 AM

I agree with everyone here who has said to slow down and think carefully about what you want to achieve and spend. If you get everything at cheap prices and do all the work yourself I would be extremely surprised if you got change from $5K, more like $6K+ for front and back ends. If you can't get cheap prices or do the work yourself then the sky's the limit...

#9 ls2lxhatch

ls2lxhatch

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,332 posts
  • Location:Perth
  • Car:LX Hatch
  • Joined: 29-May 06

Posted 20 August 2009 - 11:06 AM

The Eaton Detroit Truetrac is not a locking diff, it is a mechanical LSD. It will not deliver equal power to both wheels. The torque applied to the wheel with traction is 2.5-3.5 times the torque applied to the wheel that is slipping. If one wheel is off the ground then no torque is applied to the wheel with traction. It is a good diff for street and circuit but not the best choice for the strip.

The Eaton Detroit Locker is a locking diff, it will deliver equal power to both wheels. When it is locked it is the same as a spool.

The Lokka is an locking device similar in operation to a Detroit Locker that replaces the side/spider gears in a standard diff.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 20 August 2009 - 11:06 AM.


#10 _Squarepants_

_Squarepants_
  • Guests

Posted 20 August 2009 - 09:18 PM

First thing I'd do if I were you is spend a couple hours going back through this section and the brakes section and read everything you can on front end rebuilds and dics brake conversions as there is a plethora of info on these topics already.
Second thing I'd do is let every one here know exactly what you want to do with the car and what you expect out of it.
Thirdly, I'd warn my bank manager about the blitz that's about to happen to my account. :tease:

#11 _gen3torrie_

_gen3torrie_
  • Guests

Posted 20 August 2009 - 10:55 PM

lol well im basically building for it mainly street use and strip a little circuit but just for fun nothing serious
i'm looking to rebuild the whole front end with nolathane bushes should i go rubber but im wondering what sorta stuff should i run in my front end that would be cheapest and easy to do? i've got a solid rear end suspension of nathan(2WILD4U) which is koni adjustables and king springs... what sorta springs should i run in the front?? i havent had my diff made yet either
and im probably going to be running 17's
i mean im only young and dumb when it comes to this sorta stuff i thought i should get advice now so i dont forget about it later

thanks guys

cheers josh

#12 TerrA LX

TerrA LX

    Fulcrum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,241 posts
  • Location:Sid 'n' knee
  • Joined: 31-May 06

Posted 20 August 2009 - 11:09 PM

i mean im only young and dumb when it comes to this sorta stuff i thought i should get advice now so i dont forget about it later

thanks guys

cheers josh


Don't worry mate we all had to start somewhere, sometimes it is easy for some people to dismiss a genuine question with a response like "what are you talking about" as like myself I have been fortunate enough to have been in the motor trade from the day I left school, working for an engine builder and have since moved on to many different areas.
I have found that the only dumb question is the one not asked so don't be be afraid to ask because you "don't have an idea of what's going on".

IMO draw up a plan and stick to it, set budgets and time frames and stick to them.

Any Torana (aside A9X) needs a brake upgrade so budget for it then make an informed decision about it, as with the other areas.
Cheers T.

#13 dattoman

dattoman

    Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,484 posts
  • Name:Neil
  • Location:Perth Western Australia
  • Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
  • Joined: 04-February 07

Posted 20 August 2009 - 11:15 PM

Hoppers 300mm front kit
280mm rear kit
Get the rear brakes before you get the diff done and have them setup to suit

Front bushes all urethane except upper control arms
Do them in rubber

WTF is a solid rear end ?
Nathan can get you all this stuff... why haven't you asked him ?

Spring brand won't matter to you much... lovells, kings etc
Big swaybars... no point going adjustable if you have no idea how to set them up
Decent shocks.. again.. no point with adjust if your never going to tune the susp

#14 _gen3torrie_

_gen3torrie_
  • Guests

Posted 20 August 2009 - 11:38 PM

Hoppers 300mm front kit
280mm rear kit
Get the rear brakes before you get the diff done and have them setup to suit

Front bushes all urethane except upper control arms
Do them in rubber

WTF is a solid rear end ?
Nathan can get you all this stuff... why haven't you asked him ?

Spring brand won't matter to you much... lovells, kings etc
Big swaybars... no point going adjustable if you have no idea how to set them up
Decent shocks.. again.. no point with adjust if your never going to tune the susp


nathan can't get them they were the old setup in the back of his torana i bought it ages ago just before i bought the brown and white torana



thanks again nathan

thanks for the advice dattoman how much would it cost to redo my bushes in the front end?

#15 dattoman

dattoman

    Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,484 posts
  • Name:Neil
  • Location:Perth Western Australia
  • Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
  • Joined: 04-February 07

Posted 21 August 2009 - 12:03 AM

I mean Nathan works for a suspension shop
He can get all the parts you need

#16 _gen3torrie_

_gen3torrie_
  • Guests

Posted 21 August 2009 - 12:43 AM

which nathan lol as in (2WILD4U)??

#17 _Squarepants_

_Squarepants_
  • Guests

Posted 22 August 2009 - 03:16 PM

I would recommend Superpro's over Nolathane.
Datto is right, rubbers in the UCA's.

You can get a full front end Superpro kit on Feebay for $290 plus delivery.
http://cgi.ebay.com....id=p3286.c0.m14
These include UCA bushes but go and find some rubber ones, should be $20-30 for a pair (if that).

#18 _mello92_

_mello92_
  • Guests

Posted 23 August 2009 - 10:04 AM

Any reason/s you recommend Superpro over Nolathane, Squarepants?

And why should the UCA's be done in rubber? Are they prone to cracking or something?

#19 _OtG_

_OtG_
  • Guests

Posted 23 August 2009 - 12:18 PM

Yeah I'm curious about that too.

I have got all my suspension sitting in the shed, painted and fitted with new Nolathane bushes all the way through. I just have to get off my bum and reassemble (has anyone got diagrams, it's anal I know but I want to make sure I put bolts through in the right direction etc!)

I got Pedders to press in the new bushes and the guy there was not keen on Nolathane either. He suggested that they are too hard and squeaky (neither of which I care about). He also said that because they are so hard they are prone to breaking stuff, he suggested that he has seen more than one car rip trailing arm mounts off the body.... that was a bit of a worry. But since I bought 'em I'm going to just fit them up and see what they're like... will soon change them for rubber if I don't like them.

#20 dattoman

dattoman

    Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,484 posts
  • Name:Neil
  • Location:Perth Western Australia
  • Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
  • Joined: 04-February 07

Posted 23 August 2009 - 02:10 PM

Nolathane is fine
I preferred Noltec though
But unfortunatly Nolathane bought out Noltec to the old blue bushes I liked are gone

The uppers are usually done in rubber to give alittle more compliance and soften the ride
Some people claim its abit harsh with these in

Each to their own


I have access to just about all the rubbers in rubber and urethane... not that I need any yet
So will make my decision closer to the day when I do

And yes Josh... 2wild works in the suspension industry

#21 rodomo

rodomo

    To advertise here, call 13TORANA

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,018 posts
  • Name:R - O - B Dammit!
  • Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
  • Joined: 10-December 05

Posted 23 August 2009 - 02:36 PM

With the rear upper arm bushes I reckon it depends on the application.
I have nolathane rear bushes in the Bombodore and am happy with it on the circuit.
But, when I took it to the drags at Heathcote, it felt like it had a jackhammer going off in the boot when doing a burnout. :blink:

#22 76lxhatch

76lxhatch

    That was easy!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,187 posts
  • Location:Unzud
  • Car:SS
  • Joined: 04-August 08
Garage View Garage

Posted 23 August 2009 - 03:41 PM

I don't think that Nolathane offers the varying levels of hardness in their bushes, Superpro does

#23 ls2lxhatch

ls2lxhatch

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,332 posts
  • Location:Perth
  • Car:LX Hatch
  • Joined: 29-May 06

Posted 23 August 2009 - 03:51 PM

The SuperPro steel outer shells are machined whereas the others are pressed steel. The machining should result in a more accurate outer diameter and therefore a consistent fit in suspension components.

#24 _OtG_

_OtG_
  • Guests

Posted 23 August 2009 - 04:39 PM

The SuperPro steel outer shells are machined whereas the others are pressed steel. The machining should result in a more accurate outer diameter and therefore a consistent fit in suspension components.


That is a fair point - that's another thing my local Pedders guy was complaining about with the Nolathane that sometimes the bushes don't fit correctly - and although some people say you can just put a dab of weld on them to keep them in place, that can then affect the integrity of the bush as the urethane is basically glued in and excess heat can weaken the bond.

He fitted mine up anyway though!

#25 _Squarepants_

_Squarepants_
  • Guests

Posted 23 August 2009 - 06:10 PM

Any reason/s you recommend Superpro over Nolathane, Squarepants?

And why should the UCA's be done in rubber? Are they prone to cracking or something?


Blue is better than red. :tease:

Seriously though, nolathanes tend to be too hard and seem to crack/perish quicker. Just my limited experience with them. Superpro's come in different duro ratings and just seem to last longer.

Poly's in the UCA's are too hard on the car. My car had them fitted when I first bought it and they wore the steel pivot rod out. The steering shop said they don't do it unless you're racing the car. They make a huge difference to grip but not worth having to replace them and the pivot rod every 6-12 months IMO.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users