how do you adjust the clutch on a rat trap???is it the bracket that attaches to the firewall .......do the rubber parts have threaded steel inners with a lock nut on top??I dont want to wreck the rubbers as they seem very tight.
Any info would be much appreciated.
clutch adjustment
Started by
_benslx_
, Mar 29 2006 08:44 AM
9 replies to this topic
#2
Bazza
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 11:37 AM
Hi
The clutch free play is adjusted on fork end of the long rod underneath the car. Remove the return spring, hold the fork fully to the rear, turn adjusting nut to remove free play, then back off the nut 2 to 2 1/2 turns and tighten lock nut. Replace spring.
Bazza
The clutch free play is adjusted on fork end of the long rod underneath the car. Remove the return spring, hold the fork fully to the rear, turn adjusting nut to remove free play, then back off the nut 2 to 2 1/2 turns and tighten lock nut. Replace spring.
Bazza
#3
_draglc_
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 11:37 AM
the bit you have to adjust is the long rod that goes to the fork on the gearbox. theres a nut on it, adjust it towards the rear of the car to have less travel in your clutch pedal. though not too far as you dont want your throwout bearing contacting your pressure plate. best bet is to adjust it, then start the car and see how it feels. might take a few goes to get it right but thats the way u gotta do it!
thats for lc/lj, i assume its the same for lx?
A1
thats for lc/lj, i assume its the same for lx?
A1
#4
_benslx_
_benslx_
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 12:25 PM
the rod that goes to the clutch fork does not have any nuts it is just a rod with a ball on it and I cant see any adjustable nuts on the linkage at all except where it goes through the bracket which attaches to the firewall
#5
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 05:26 PM
The fork is the bit that pokes out the side of the gear box. It is right down beside the gearbox, not on the fire wall. Dig a bit deeper.
The ball is the end of the cable at the top/middle of the rat trap, you want the other end, down alongside the gearbox, threaded rod. One nut may be concealed by the steel flanges.
The ball is the end of the cable at the top/middle of the rat trap, you want the other end, down alongside the gearbox, threaded rod. One nut may be concealed by the steel flanges.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 29 March 2006 - 05:28 PM.
#6
_benslx_
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 06:34 PM
I must have a weird set up because starting at the clutch fork there is a rod with a ball going back to a pivot point and lever setup which attaches to the clutch pedal by another thin rod , no cable at all and nowhere i can see an adjusting screw, except a thick rod that goes from the lever setup to the bracket on the firewall????
#7
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 07:18 PM
Yes cable is V8, rod is six. I'll have a look at my book. LH/LX or LC/LJ? Sounding LC/LJ.
#8
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 07:44 PM
Hope this makes sense to you, cause doesn't to me. These six clutches are weird shit. Would only cost $20-$25 to get a mechanic to adjust it, just ask him if you can watch. I can see the bit you are talking about now, the big rod up onto the fire wall with the big rubber washers, that's not it.
Here's what the LH Manual says:-
1. Disconnect the clutch fork return spring from clutch fork.
2. Using a light finger pressure, load clutch fork in direction of arrow "F" (rearwards) and ajust push rod untill all lash is removed.
3. Replace return spring.
4. Back off push rod 2 1/2 turns (5 clicks???) which will provide .125 in (3.2mm) lash between ball end of push rod and ball seat in the clutch fork.
Thanks for getting me to look that up, you live and learn. Now to find a club member's car to experiment on!!!! bwahahahaha Didn't know about the 2 1/2 turns for the V8, so I've learn't something along the way as well.
Hope you can make sense of that.
Here's what the LH Manual says:-
1. Disconnect the clutch fork return spring from clutch fork.
2. Using a light finger pressure, load clutch fork in direction of arrow "F" (rearwards) and ajust push rod untill all lash is removed.
3. Replace return spring.
4. Back off push rod 2 1/2 turns (5 clicks???) which will provide .125 in (3.2mm) lash between ball end of push rod and ball seat in the clutch fork.
Thanks for getting me to look that up, you live and learn. Now to find a club member's car to experiment on!!!! bwahahahaha Didn't know about the 2 1/2 turns for the V8, so I've learn't something along the way as well.
Hope you can make sense of that.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 29 March 2006 - 07:46 PM.
#9
_benslx_
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Posted 29 March 2006 - 08:34 PM
Its a uc 202 and m20 and no that does not seem to make sense as the lx/uc must be different to the lh as i have a lx hatch which has an identical clutch set up as well.
Thanks for your efforts but I think I will have to investigate further as apart from shortening the rod to the back of the pedal or lengthing the rod to the fork the only place that there seems to be a place to adjust is that spot where it joins to the bracket on the firewall.
Seems to be a bloody stupid setup when it could be so much easier .
It looks like the rubbers could have a steel round nut inside them with a lock nut on top,but too much force could stuff the rubbers??
I was hoping some one had the same setup and new how to adjust it,but obviuosly they are not common ........we know why.
Thanks for your efforts but I think I will have to investigate further as apart from shortening the rod to the back of the pedal or lengthing the rod to the fork the only place that there seems to be a place to adjust is that spot where it joins to the bracket on the firewall.
Seems to be a bloody stupid setup when it could be so much easier .
It looks like the rubbers could have a steel round nut inside them with a lock nut on top,but too much force could stuff the rubbers??
I was hoping some one had the same setup and new how to adjust it,but obviuosly they are not common ........we know why.
#10
_benslx_
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Posted 30 March 2006 - 06:09 PM
After some hard cleaning ,wd40 and a large set of stilsons the push rod to the clutch fork does turn .......it is now adjusted and working fine .
Thanks for the advice
Thanks for the advice
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