18 replies to this topic

[Tiny]

Hi Guys,

In case you didn't know, I've started a business selling Seal lock products.
www.seallocknsw.com.au

One of our products is an amazing thread repair that beats the socks off Heli-Coils.

You don't need any special tools, you simply do the following:

Select the right size drill bit (use a slightly smaller drill bit for aluminium or soft material)
Drill the damaged thread out
Install the new thread by turning the NUT until it's fully seated (It will self-tap into the material, Just use a little T.M.T Lubricant)You can use a normal spanner for this.
Remove the bolt and Viola! A new thread is created!

Threads are hardened to 60 Rockwell so they can self tap into many materials ( including mild steel!!)
Threads are also zinc or cad coated to limit corrosion.

Anyway!! to the question!

I would like to know what are the most common siz3es of threads to strip out or damage in a torana?
Where are they used and what are they (Size and pitch?)

Some areas i know about:

202 bell housing bolts - *Need to confirm size*
carburettor mounting plate on manifolds
Manifold bolts ( exhaust to head and intake to head)

I would like your input in to what is most used!

[TerrA LX]

I need to repair a tow bar, are they suitable for this application?

[Tiny]

I need to repair a tow bar, are they suitable for this application?

What thread is damaged in the tow bar?

If you would use a heli-coil to repair the thread.. then yes!

What size is it?

[wot179]

1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, UNC and UNF would just about cover the whole car I would think.

Most other early Holdens too.

[TerrA LX]

What thread is damaged in the tow bar?

One of the two that hold the goose neck on.
Only guessing there about 1"

[A9X]

Hey big fella

will it work on alloy heads?

[Tiny]

WOT179 and Squarepants: Thank you guys so much! THAT was what i was after!! I am VERY grateful for your, and everyone's replies!

Welby: Mate.. these are the BEST for alloy heads!

Because they are self tapping, and made from hardened steel, they tap into soft material like alloy heads with ease, and because they are then a steel insert they are highly unlikely to strip within themselves.

A Picture of some is attached below.
You can see the individual inserts in the picture, and the one in the middle is "set up for installation" on the installation bolt.
Basically you simply turn the NUT, while putting some pressure on the BOLT so that it begins to tap.
Once it's started tapping, like a normal tap it will draw itself in untill the nut bottoms out and the thread self locks in position.
You then hold the bolt, back off the nut.. and wind the bolt out leaving the new thread in place!
Viola! Stronger and better than before! And HEAPS easier than any of the other thread repairs that i know of!

[Tiny]

Terry: If you can find out, or measure them up i can tell you for sure if we can get them for you!

Cheers!

[LX2DR]

WOT179 and Squarepants: Thank you guys so much! THAT was what i was after!! I am VERY grateful for your, and everyone's replies!

Welby: Mate.. these are the BEST for alloy heads!

Because they are self tapping, and made from hardened steel, they tap into soft material like alloy heads with ease, and because they are then a steel insert they are highly unlikely to strip within themselves.

A Picture of some is attached below.
You can see the individual inserts in the picture, and the one in the middle is "set up for installation" on the installation bolt.
Basically you simply turn the NUT, while putting some pressure on the BOLT so that it begins to tap.
Once it's started tapping, like a normal tap it will draw itself in untill the nut bottoms out and the thread self locks in position.
You then hold the bolt, back off the nut.. and wind the bolt out leaving the new thread in place!
Viola! Stronger and better than before! And HEAPS easier than any of the other thread repairs that i know of!

Hi Tiny

Most of the alloy machine parts of the equipment I work on has these as standard fitting.

They are very good in that application as you cant tighten a bolt in alloy as tight without them nor when the parts are lifted and lowered constantly during operation will the alloy last.

Good luck with the business venture, i'm sure you will do well with these

Paul

Edited by LX2DR, 06 September 2009 - 08:24 PM.

[Tiny]

Many thanks Paul!

These are just one of our products, and one that really amazed me and drew us in!
( I HATE heli-coils! hehe!)

We've got heaps of other products, and theyre all made in the USA so they're good quality reliable stuff!

I'm using the Seal-Tabs in the Monaro! So it's gotto be trustworthy!

Cheers for the info!

[Bart]

Looks great Tiny
I actually made up something like that very similar to tightent some cam/rocker cover
Good luck with your business.

Edited by Bart, 06 September 2009 - 08:28 PM.

[Tiny]

Hi Bart!

Thanks mate! Really appreciate it!

[wot179]

I just went for a bit of a look around a 186 I have in the shed,and this is what I reckon.

If anybody thinks any are wrong,please note the mistake here.

You can add whatever I have missed too,like

non adustable rockers on 202s(I dont have one so cant check)
Adjustable rocker studs(I think they are 3/8 UNF)
Main bearing bolts(I couldnt be bothered pulling the sump off to check,but I think they are 7/16UNC)

This is what I checked

Head bolts 7/16 UNC

Bellhousing to engine 7/16 UNC

Engine mount to block 7/16 UNC and 3/8 UNC

Gearbox to bellhousing 3/8 UNC

Carby stud to manifold 3/8 UNC

Inlet and exhaust manifolds to block 3/8 UNC

Exhaust stud 3/8 UNC

Coil to head 3/8 UNC

Therostat housing top to bottom 3/8 UNC

Thermostat housing bottom to block 3/8 UNC

Alternator bracket to block 3/8 UNC

Distributor clamp to block 3/8 UNC

Flywheel bolts 3/8 UNF

Waterpump to block 5/16 UNC

Fan to waterpump 5/16 UNF

Fuelpump to block 5/16 UNC

Battery cable to head 5/16 UNC

Oilpump to block 5/16 UNC

Oilpump cover to oilpump 1/4 UNC

Sump to block 1/4 UNC and 5/16 UNC

Timing cover to block 1/4 UNC

Rocker cover to head 1/4 UNC

Hope this helps.

[Tiny]

That is bloody awesome! Thank you WOT!

Are these sizes common to any other engines that anyone knows of? 308s, Chevs?

That's unreal info, i definitely owe you one!! :cheers:

[Tiny]

Thanks Mello and Bomber!

The major benefit we have over other thred repairs like Heli Coil are that you dont need to buy an entire kit to fix one thread!

If you're like me and damage a single thread, Nothing shits you worse than HAVING to buy an $80 kit of heli coils to get one repair done.. you'll probably never need to do again!

These items are sold individually OR in kits, and we've made some Torana-Specific kits with the information you guys have kindly given me, so that hopefully you can always have on hand just the right one to fix the problem!

Thanks again guys, And if your interested in anything, Dont hesitate to PM me, or contact us via the web site and Paul will be able to help you out!

Dont forget to tell him your a GMH-T member!

Cheers!