http://spoolimports.com/content/SPOOL202HOLDENCONRODS.asp
Thinking of buying some for my new engine and wanted to see if it was a worthwhile purchase.
SPOOL Conrods
Started by
_CraigA_
, Oct 07 2009 10:03 PM
30 replies to this topic
#1
_CraigA_
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Posted 07 October 2009 - 10:03 PM
Has anyone used or heard of these before?
http://spoolimports.com/content/SPOOL202HOLDENCONRODS.asp
Thinking of buying some for my new engine and wanted to see if it was a worthwhile purchase.
http://spoolimports.com/content/SPOOL202HOLDENCONRODS.asp
Thinking of buying some for my new engine and wanted to see if it was a worthwhile purchase.
#2
dattoman
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Posted 07 October 2009 - 11:27 PM
Got some CA18 ones for a datto project I haven't used yet
There was a conrod dicussion recently here I think and they might have been mentioned
There was a conrod dicussion recently here I think and they might have been mentioned
#3
orangeLJ
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Posted 08 October 2009 - 08:34 AM
I know alot of guys that are using them in high revving four pots and they are handling a shit load of abuse.
I brought up spool in regards to custom crank shafts for the holden 6, but if they do rods to suit, then Id say go for it.
I brought up spool in regards to custom crank shafts for the holden 6, but if they do rods to suit, then Id say go for it.
#5
_mumstaxi_
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Posted 08 October 2009 - 09:32 AM
I have also heard a few of the RB30 turbo guys using spool rods, with good results.
MT
MT
#6
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 08 October 2009 - 08:47 PM
Finally. Bout time someone made rods for a 202.
Just out of curiosity, wonder if the little ends are to suit the standard type press fit gudgeon or a full floater, being sintered bronze i would assume full floater.
Good in my mind but might be a trap for younge players if you try to graft a set onto a set of standard type pistons (ie everything except custom forged slugs).
Best check it out and let us know
Cheers.
Just out of curiosity, wonder if the little ends are to suit the standard type press fit gudgeon or a full floater, being sintered bronze i would assume full floater.
Good in my mind but might be a trap for younge players if you try to graft a set onto a set of standard type pistons (ie everything except custom forged slugs).
Best check it out and let us know
Cheers.
#7
greens nice
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Posted 08 October 2009 - 08:56 PM
look the goods, but why cant someone make a longer rod to suit? .4 ish inch longer rod and a 250 falc with 200 rod piston , with a lumpy top for also, that'd be killer. if you wanted to go all out i spose you could use a 6.3 inch honda rod but way to much hassle.
topp brand SPOOL is
cheers
topp brand SPOOL is
cheers
#8
Heath
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Posted 10 October 2009 - 01:50 PM
These sound great on paper, price seems good too. What is the issue with these & hypereutectic pistons?
#9
makka
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Posted 10 October 2009 - 02:59 PM
These sound great on paper, price seems good too. What is the issue with these & hypereutectic pistons?
what makes you thing there is a problem with these and hyper pistons?
what DJ is talking about is that they dont look like they are for press fit gudgeons so would need pistons with a provision for spiro locks or similar to suit floating gudgeon pins
#10
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 10 October 2009 - 04:23 PM
Got it in one Makka.
I dont know of any off the shelf pistons like acl race series etc that have provisions for spiro locks.
Could be wrong.
Cheers.
I dont know of any off the shelf pistons like acl race series etc that have provisions for spiro locks.
Could be wrong.
Cheers.
#11
_oldjohnno_
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Posted 11 October 2009 - 07:10 AM
I'm looking at using this off-the-shelf (and cheap - cheap is my middle name!) combo in a 202 I'm building at the moment:
Eagle rods for GM Quad 4 2.4liter - 5.71" long, .866" bushed small end, stock big end bearings are about 0.010" under stock 202 crankpin dia. May need to narrow the big end a few thou. About US$550 for six.
Cadillac Northstar L37 hyper-u pistons, 93mm std, flat top, floating 0.866" pin. 1.5/1.5/3.0 ring pack. Comp height 1.256" puts top about 0.036" higher than std so should save decking block to get head clearance right.
About $500 for pistons and rings I think, a bit more for forged Wisecos.
I'll let you know how they go.
Eagle rods for GM Quad 4 2.4liter - 5.71" long, .866" bushed small end, stock big end bearings are about 0.010" under stock 202 crankpin dia. May need to narrow the big end a few thou. About US$550 for six.
Cadillac Northstar L37 hyper-u pistons, 93mm std, flat top, floating 0.866" pin. 1.5/1.5/3.0 ring pack. Comp height 1.256" puts top about 0.036" higher than std so should save decking block to get head clearance right.
About $500 for pistons and rings I think, a bit more for forged Wisecos.
I'll let you know how they go.
#12
_Drag lc_
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Posted 11 October 2009 - 11:10 AM
spool arnt they made in china.
but they might be better than gm rods but prolly give them a miss if looking for high hp.
but they might be better than gm rods but prolly give them a miss if looking for high hp.
#13
_clubspClubsportr8ortr8_
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Posted 11 October 2009 - 11:20 AM
Don't know where there made as of yet but look the goods.They only take a floating piston setup so no off the shelf gear will fit unless you get your ACL's modded.If you want the longer rod option PPM in Sydney will make a rod any length you require and any forged piston to suit,both around $1600 or another option is a billet crank made to whatever specs you want at $2500.So you have whatever options available to you and i am looking at a couple of other manufacturers atm so will report back with prices etc shortly.
Jeff
Jeff
#14
_clubspClubsportr8ortr8_
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Posted 11 October 2009 - 11:39 AM
Sorry couldn't edit the other post,Spool conrods are definately stronger than our holden rod and at $800 for a forges steel rod that has been shotpeened,magnafluxed,balanced etc a way better and cheaper option than doing your old rods.A lot of the wiz bangs use these rods and there are a few 600hp VL Turbo's useing these with no problem and they where installed straight out of the box.Food for thought and if you need contact details PM me and will see what i can dig up.
Jeff
Jeff
#15
Heath
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Posted 12 October 2009 - 04:55 PM
Thanks for the info guys. I don't really see the realistic need for a billet crank in a Holden 6 - the fully counterweighted late model units just seem so bloody tough. Wish I had a set of these rods and some lightweight pistons ready to go. Not really in touch with the gudgeon pin differences... I'll research it before I say much more
Cheers
Cheers
#16
greens nice
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Posted 12 October 2009 - 07:38 PM
Thanks for the info guys. I don't really see the realistic need for a billet crank in a Holden 6 - the fully counterweighted late model units just seem so bloody tough. Wish I had a set of these rods and some lightweight pistons ready to go. Not really in touch with the gudgeon pin differences... I'll research it before I say much more
Cheers
they of course have their limits, some NC torana has a $10,000 billet crank just so the block holds together.
#17
orangeLJ
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Posted 13 October 2009 - 07:22 AM
if you wanted to go all out i spose you could use a 6.3 inch honda rod but way to much hassle.
There is a set in the cupboard at the old mans joint
Will definitely be an interesting engine when we get around to it
#18
_@milco@_
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Posted 14 October 2009 - 11:05 PM
whats the set with the honda rod? how/what do you doo / what does it achive?
#19
greens nice
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Posted 15 October 2009 - 03:37 PM
whats the set with the honda rod? how/what do you doo / what does it achive?
basically a block of steel put in a mill and made the same as the top of the block (water holes etcc) and strapped to the top, bore the block and spacer out and sleeve them, then bolt your head on.
but if it wasnt sleeved enough and with movement in the block, it could leak :(
then a 6.3 in honda rod and 250 falcon with 200 conrod piston can go in, giving you a rod stroke ratio of 1.93
, whereas std holden is about 1.62/
Edited by greens nice, 15 October 2009 - 03:39 PM.
#20
_oldjohnno_
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Posted 12 December 2009 - 10:30 AM
I'm looking at using this off-the-shelf (and cheap - cheap is my middle name!) combo in a 202 I'm building at the moment:
Eagle rods for GM Quad 4 2.4liter - 5.71" long, .866" bushed small end, stock big end bearings are about 0.010" under stock 202 crankpin dia. May need to narrow the big end a few thou. About US$550 for six.
Cadillac Northstar L37 hyper-u pistons, 93mm std, flat top, floating 0.866" pin. 1.5/1.5/3.0 ring pack. Comp height 1.256" puts top about 0.036" higher than std so should save decking block to get head clearance right.
About $500 for pistons and rings I think, a bit more for forged Wisecos.
I'll let you know how they go.
Ended up buying these and very happy with them. Speed-Pro piston with pin is 508 grams, pin is floating with wire retainers. Standard piston is same as 202 +0.040".
The Eagle rods are just a bit lighter than Starfires despite being longer, and come with ARP 2000 3/8" bolts. Standard Clevite HD bearings fit -0.010 crankpin and the slightly wider BE means I can cut back on the side clearance a tad. The thing I like about them (apart from the price) is they are all off-the-shelf items.
#21
Heath
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Posted 12 December 2009 - 10:37 PM
So is any work required to put those rods and pistons together? Is the gudgeon pin retaining setup all good to go etc? Do they bolt straight in with normal big end bearings and so on? Sounds like very good value
Do you view that as a significant weight saving? Or is it merely for strength in your application?
Do you view that as a significant weight saving? Or is it merely for strength in your application?
#22
Bart
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Posted 13 December 2009 - 12:03 AM
So where/who makes em?
#23
_oldjohnno_
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Posted 13 December 2009 - 05:39 AM
The pistons and rods fit together without modification. Floating pin is standard.
If you use standard Quad 4 rod bearings these fit -0.010 crankpins. If you want to run Holden bearings you would need to bore/hone the BE about 10 thou.
The big end is a bit wider so depending on the crank it might be necessary to linish a few thou from the sides. To me this is an advantage as stock rods are usually a bit sloppy here.
The piston deck ends up being 36 thou higher; depending on the block deck height this may or may not need skimming. Again I see this as an advantage in that the height can be easily set without having to cut much from the block deck.
Strength and weight are both issues for me; this particular engine will be turning very high revs. The piston weight is 100g or so less than a stocker, and still a tad less than a RaceSeries. You could trim a bit more weight with taper-wall pins. The rods have a factory rev and power rating far in excess of what any holden six could ever produce (from memory something like 200hp/cyl). The pistons I'm using are hypereutectic jobs with coated skirts and a thin ring pack. I know some people will need forged but I've had very good luck with hypereuts. in similar engines and I like the fact I can run closer clearances.
The extra rod length brings the rod ratio up to about 1.76 which I think is more reasonable than the standard 202 ratio and should be a bit more gentle on the block.
The pistons I used were hypereutectic SpeedPro p/n H873CP, other manufacturers do them too.
The rods are Eagle ESP series p/n 5710C3D
Big end bearings are Clevite CB1647P
I bought them all from Summit; you might find them cheaper somewhere else but they have a price matching deal anyway. I got a quote from racingworks.com on the rods that Summit matched.
If you use standard Quad 4 rod bearings these fit -0.010 crankpins. If you want to run Holden bearings you would need to bore/hone the BE about 10 thou.
The big end is a bit wider so depending on the crank it might be necessary to linish a few thou from the sides. To me this is an advantage as stock rods are usually a bit sloppy here.
The piston deck ends up being 36 thou higher; depending on the block deck height this may or may not need skimming. Again I see this as an advantage in that the height can be easily set without having to cut much from the block deck.
Strength and weight are both issues for me; this particular engine will be turning very high revs. The piston weight is 100g or so less than a stocker, and still a tad less than a RaceSeries. You could trim a bit more weight with taper-wall pins. The rods have a factory rev and power rating far in excess of what any holden six could ever produce (from memory something like 200hp/cyl). The pistons I'm using are hypereutectic jobs with coated skirts and a thin ring pack. I know some people will need forged but I've had very good luck with hypereuts. in similar engines and I like the fact I can run closer clearances.
The extra rod length brings the rod ratio up to about 1.76 which I think is more reasonable than the standard 202 ratio and should be a bit more gentle on the block.
The pistons I used were hypereutectic SpeedPro p/n H873CP, other manufacturers do them too.
The rods are Eagle ESP series p/n 5710C3D
Big end bearings are Clevite CB1647P
I bought them all from Summit; you might find them cheaper somewhere else but they have a price matching deal anyway. I got a quote from racingworks.com on the rods that Summit matched.
#24
Heath
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Posted 13 December 2009 - 11:16 AM
Thanks for all the info. Probably second nature to you but it's all learning for me 
#25
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Posted 14 December 2009 - 02:53 PM
Looks as though the rods are a bit smaller in overall diameter around the crank pin, giving a bit more clearance for those running stroker cranks. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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