Brake ducts
Started by
_brett_32i_
, Nov 17 2009 08:46 PM
32 replies to this topic
#26
Posted 10 December 2009 - 02:49 PM
Are you using run-of-the-mill pads Brett? Or are they made for a higher operating temperature?
Talking about aiming it more at the centre... Not sure if I'm interpreting what you're saying correctly. Do you mean to cool the middle of the disc more rather than just the inside face?
Cheers
Talking about aiming it more at the centre... Not sure if I'm interpreting what you're saying correctly. Do you mean to cool the middle of the disc more rather than just the inside face?
Cheers
#27 _Baronvonrort_
Posted 10 December 2009 - 08:30 PM
The ideal way is to duct the air to the centre with vented disc so air enters at hub and goes through the middle of the disc exiting at outer radius.
Both sides are cooled fairly evenly + wheel bearings run a little cooler.
Dattoman posted pics earlier on how to do it and the plate which the duct attaches to should be as close as possible to disc to prevent air leakage and maximise air through disc,maybe a gauze mesh on air inlet should be used to filter out pebbles etc.
Some method of easily adjusting inlet size would be handy race tape would be ok here as Datto suggested get some temperature indicating paint for your discs.
Carbon fibre tube available from www.cstcomposites.com at reasonable rates for thin wall tube for those who want something more upmarket than pvc tube.
I would still do it for a hot street torana and only unblock ducts when towing or prolonged thrashing.
Both sides are cooled fairly evenly + wheel bearings run a little cooler.
Dattoman posted pics earlier on how to do it and the plate which the duct attaches to should be as close as possible to disc to prevent air leakage and maximise air through disc,maybe a gauze mesh on air inlet should be used to filter out pebbles etc.
Some method of easily adjusting inlet size would be handy race tape would be ok here as Datto suggested get some temperature indicating paint for your discs.
Carbon fibre tube available from www.cstcomposites.com at reasonable rates for thin wall tube for those who want something more upmarket than pvc tube.
I would still do it for a hot street torana and only unblock ducts when towing or prolonged thrashing.
#28
Posted 10 December 2009 - 10:38 PM
Good time I think?1:46
target was 1:45 (hq record) so was pretty close. pads let me down an torsen gave no drive out of tight corners.
Was that the full track?
And, what does this bit "pads let me down an torsen gave no drive out of tight corners" mean?
#29
Posted 11 December 2009 - 06:24 AM
Torsen is the Nissan LSD I think
#30
Posted 11 December 2009 - 10:05 AM
Yeah it's a viscous centre isn't it? I don't know if you can 'adjust' them, but surely for a skyline rear end you could go and buy an aftermarket 2-way or something if necessary (probably pretty expensive lol)
Edited by Heath, 11 December 2009 - 10:06 AM.
#31 _brett_32i_
Posted 11 December 2009 - 11:18 AM
torsen (torque sensing centre. worm gears and stuff. no wearing parts. great on street. poo on track. ill buy another centre and weld it up, just swap them over when i go to the track.
pads are qfm hpx. will go a1's next time. i chose hpx as a compromise for street driving. ill just swap them out too.
and camber. only running like 1.5 degrees all round.
yes it was full track. lotus's were running 39's. f6 running 53's. golf gti 54's. s'charged s2000 40's
pads are qfm hpx. will go a1's next time. i chose hpx as a compromise for street driving. ill just swap them out too.
and camber. only running like 1.5 degrees all round.
yes it was full track. lotus's were running 39's. f6 running 53's. golf gti 54's. s'charged s2000 40's
#32
Posted 11 December 2009 - 11:44 AM
Ohh I just looked it up, my bad; definitely not viscous
#33 _2wild4u_
Posted 01 January 2010 - 10:19 PM
so the genuine brake ducts can still be fitted if you are using a front mounted swaybar? i assuming they will need some modifications?????????
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users