Any panel/paint Expert wanna be my MSN mentor?

Would the hi-fill not fill the pin holes? I thought that was the purpose of it?

U-POL Hot Shot is da bomb when it comes to poly fillers.

I love the stuff, and it smells like banana lollies when ya sand it back

Probably killing me softly in the process, but nice none the less.

Yes high fill will fill pin holes, but it cant be trusted to, put some poly in there. The flatter your surface is before you high fill the better.

Cheers.

Edited by Bomber Watson, 31 December 2009 - 05:31 PM.

Hmm just blocked back my first bit of Hi-fill... it seem to lay down quite lumpy and took aaaages to block down. is that just how hi-fill is... Or should I thin it out abit more next time or change tip or change spray technique?

More thinners, put it on more wet, slower thinner, any combination of the above.

If you are already using the recommended maximum amount of thinners then see if there is a slower thinner available.

DO NOT USE GP THINNERS IN PAINT.

If you are not using the recommended maximum then WHY THE HELL NOT??

We told you to earlier, listen to what we say booooyyyy.

If you are using the max amount of thinners and no slower version is available (usually not required with primer) then the most likely assumption is your putting it on to dry.

Fix for that, put your balls on before you pick up the gun and LAY THE SHIT ON.

High fill sticks like shit to a blanket, the chances of getting a run or sag is slight.

Good practice now as when it comes time to spray 2k clear if your balls are still hanging on your bedstand and you pussy foot with it it will come out like shit.....gotta put it on nice and wet.

Cheers.

Where did anyone say to use max thinners? The TDS says to use 10-15% if using it as a filler or 35-40% if using as a surfacer... I been using it as a filler (I should be right?) and putting in 15% Also using Fast thinners as thats what the TDS says to use?

So maybe ill try 20% thinner and a normal instead of fast?

Happy new year my question for this morning is.... When im wetsanding with 600 I went thru to steel in a couple of Tiny places (mainly edges) but since im wet sanding by the time ive finished and dried it all down you can already see some rust forming on these bare metal spots :/

Now I just drysanded them with some 600 and it looks like it has got it all off... is that all thats needed? im just a little worried there may be a little left that i cant see? and after doing all the work taking it back to baremetal and epoxying it I dont wanna leave little bubbles behind...

So yea is it fine to jus drysand it clean or should I rub it a little with Deox, Im just worried this may effect the primer tho?

Also A couple of real small spots it rubbed through in to the epoxy, do I need to spot prime that little spot or be fine to just put base straight over it?

Clint if you've gone through your high fill and primer i would use a 20%/25% mix of high fill & thinners, it sounds like you've sorted the oxidized surface out and it should be OK to high fill over. in regards to your spraying technique make sure the pressure is not to high as it will go on to dry even if the thinner paint ratio is right,
How far away from Thornlie are you???

Maddington hehe. so not far at all

if you go through to metal after blocking it back just put a little bit of etch primer over the metal there isn't any need to put bits of hifill over it. usually you will go through around the edges. once the etch is on and is really dry just scuff over it with a super fine pad and thats it ready for paint. like bomber said clear is the hard part of painting especially when your not in a spray booth in ho temps.its got to go on wet and is hard to not get runs

Ok I think I know the answer to this question but a shortcut would be nice.... but do most people prep the insides of the doors exactly the same as the outside? its not a full on showcar or anything so the insides dont need to be supergloss like the outside, just want them the same color but obviously no big noticable scratches etc.... Just cos its so fiddly and im not lookin forward to it..

So do I just suck it up and take my time blocking or what

What i did, just got a big pile of boss auto sanding sponges, fine ones, and went rank.

Then i got a grey scotchbrite, and got anywhere the sponge wouldent get.

Then i got some sand paper and lightly blocked the bits you can see so they were a tad nicer, though the sponge does a fairly good job.

Result:





Cheers.

Ps, you should feel special, your thread is the first place on these forums i have shown progress picks of my LJ haha...

Hehe My mum says im special, now i know its true...

did you just do that over the existing paint? Ive actually sprayed hi-fill over it... Are those boss sanding sponges those things that sorta look like sanding blocks but are squishy and have sandpaper texture on the outside?

No, used that method twice, once with the paint that was on the door then again with the primer that i put over the paint, cant directly spray 2k over acrylic.....Sorry forgot to mention that.

Basically from where you are now do that.

And no, no there not those sponges *searches google*

AHA

http://www.thesandpa...ponge-fine.html

Like that.

There really good....nice and flexy, but always support themselves. Great for nooks and crannies.

Lots of brands make them, only reason i said Boss Auto is because there fine ones are a fairly good grit, ultrafine for finishing before top coating if your keen. I find the actual grit varies between manufacturers.

Prolly just find somewhere that sells them and buy a box of fine and a box of extra fine, you wont regret it.

Cheers.

Edited by Bomber Watson, 07 January 2010 - 08:01 PM.

ahh cool, ill see if my supply shop has any. save me some time...

Next question... Cheese graters, not the one in ur kitchen cupboard but the bog related ones...

I had applied filler to a largish area and I got a grater but never actually used it but thought hmm why not give it a shot... seemed to work pretty good to help level it out, will see for sure when I goto sand it down tommorow morning..

But yea just after any tips... when would you use one... how do you know test if the bogs in its "cheesy" stage... any do's / donts? and how hard should I push down? jus a back and forth motion or on a angle etc?

those medium,fine,superfine pads work great.cheese graters IMO are shit you shouldn't have bog that thick lol! there good if you have a huge bog filled panel, you would use it wen the bog is still soft just before it goes off. you will no once you use it if it grates well then your on the right track if the bog is to hard it will more scratch instead of cut. you shouldn't have to push down at all because bog will be fairly soft. the best way is to go diagenally down the panel otherwise you will dig out one section if going baack and forth.whenever rubbing bog out you should be getting as much of the panel as possible. i always just use 36 then 80grit.

are you gona be ready for motorvation next sat/sun?

Edited by yldlj, 07 January 2010 - 09:39 PM.

Nope.... The car should of pretty much been ready for paint by this week... I already cancelled my entry.... did a realistic schedule last week and there was no way I was gonna make it without rushing and skipping a few things... And im not gonna rush it just for one car show. Its not a showcar anyway, I plan to drive it as much as possible and have fun, everyone else in the Gems club seems more upset about it then me lol

Edited by Viper, 07 January 2010 - 09:46 PM.

lol yeah you shouldn't rush just to get it in. would have been good to see it there tho . i got my tonner in, its my daily aswell but its pritty nice

those medium,fine,superfine pads work great.cheese graters IMO are shit you shouldn't have bog that thick lol! there good if you have a huge bog filled panel, you would use it wen the bog is still soft just before it goes off. you will no once you use it if it grates well then your on the right track if the bog is to hard it will more scratch instead of cut. you shouldn't have to push down at all because bog will be fairly soft. the best way is to go diagenally down the panel otherwise you will dig out one section if going baack and forth.whenever rubbing bog out you should be getting as much of the panel as possible. i always just use 36 then 80grit.

are you gona be ready for motorvation next sat/sun?

i thought the purpose of a chease grater was just to remove the top layer of bog
you know the stuff that never sets right and clogs your paper
maybe i'm growing impatient in my old age lol
you got a speed file?
i find these better for leveling out than the cheasy things

Edited by beergut, 08 January 2010 - 09:32 AM.

Is a speed file those metal files you use on steel to check its level? yea I got one of them, havnt used that much either...

Hmm ive been using that 3M powder dry guide coat system which is pretty good... just that ok say I put some of the powder guide coat down, do some block sanding and find there is some low spots etc... now there is still powder in those low spots... Can I just put filler over the top of do I have to remove it? it doesnt just wipe off, and water or wax n grease remover doesnt remove it either... seems only way to remove is by sanding..

Is a speed file those metal files you use on steel to check its level? yea I got one of them, havnt used that much either...

nah is a long wide file you put sand paper of different grades onto
you've probaly got one you use to block out with i just call it a different name

Oh Ive just got a Large block that I wrap sandpaper around? I bought a set, their called "durablock"

a speed file is worth bying as you dont have to hold the paper it clips in and that makes sure the paper is tight and straight against it. a body file is te ones you use for metal filing. i'm not to sure about the 3m guide coat stuff as i have never used it because i just use gm black as guide coat. i wouldn't worry about it if its just a little dent but thats with gm black i'm not sure what the dry powder is like. if you are concered just scuff the low up with some 320 or a fine pad

Edited by yldlj, 08 January 2010 - 08:21 PM.

Ok this is annoying me as it feels like im going backwards...

Ok has happened a few times now... latest is im blocking the door down, it all blocks down nice and flat except there is 2 low spots, only VERY shallow. 1 is bit smaller then the size of my fist, other is bout the size of 3 20c peices in a row but Ive just hit steel in a section nearby so I goto stop blocking right? as the steel wont sand down and ill end up with a high spot... no worries so I grab some poly filler and fill those low spots and go a wee bit further as well and make it as flat as I can....

Then am I supposed to use a small block and just block that area or what? Cos I been using the large long block and sanding over the filler but it ALWAYS sands down to steel on the areas around the filler before the filler is flat... and im left with deepish low spots around the filler.....

How the hell can I have deeper low spots now after ive added filler? its like when I sand the filler its sanding not just the filler but everything around it at the same rate and instead of the small shallow low that I had to behind with ive not got alot of low spots :S

So what am I doing wrong? should I only be using a small block and try and only sand the filler and not around it? am I pushing too hard (im not putting much pressure on I dont think) or do I just ignore the steel bits showing and keep sanding?

Ok this is annoying me as it feels like im going backwards...

Ok has happened a few times now... latest is im blocking the door down, it all blocks down nice and flat except there is 2 low spots, only VERY shallow. 1 is bit smaller then the size of my fist, other is bout the size of 3 20c peices in a row but Ive just hit steel in a section nearby so I goto stop blocking right? as the steel wont sand down and ill end up with a high spot... no worries so I grab some poly filler and fill those low spots and go a wee bit further as well and make it as flat as I can....

Then am I supposed to use a small block and just block that area or what? Cos I been using the large long block and sanding over the filler but it ALWAYS sands down to steel on the areas around the filler before the filler is flat... and im left with deepish low spots around the filler.....

How the hell can I have deeper low spots now after ive added filler? its like when I sand the filler its sanding not just the filler but everything around it at the same rate and instead of the small shallow low that I had to behind with ive not got alot of low spots :S

So what am I doing wrong? should I only be using a small block and try and only sand the filler and not around it? am I pushing too hard (im not putting much pressure on I dont think) or do I just ignore the steel bits showing and keep sanding?

I would be keen for some info here too as I had the same problem as you viper. I tried feathering the edges of the putty then doing the whole area. It's better then when I first started but to run my hand over it once wet sanded, can still fill the faintest ripple. I don't know how fussy you have to be. Will this show up in the final finish?