View GarageIt is good though
until it comes to cleaning... but cars are for driving not cleaning
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Fixing my brothers UC hatch
Started by
_dirtbag_
, Dec 30 2009 01:19 PM
1690 replies to this topic
#226
Posted 27 January 2010 - 09:11 PM
Black doesn't hide anything!
It is good though
until it comes to cleaning... but cars are for driving not cleaning
It is good though
until it comes to cleaning... but cars are for driving not cleaning
#227
_AD_75_
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Posted 27 January 2010 - 09:49 PM
Black looks really good on LX Hatch's..definitely talk him outta red/black 
#228
_niterida_
_niterida_
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Posted 28 January 2010 - 12:07 AM
I read a magazine article years ago about painting a car and they said you have a choice of 2 colours :
RED - If you want to paint it to look pretty in a magazine article
BLACK - if you are painting it to look good everywhere else :-)
RED - If you want to paint it to look pretty in a magazine article
BLACK - if you are painting it to look good everywhere else :-)
#229
MRLXSS
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- Name:Matt
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- Car:355 LX Hatchback, DeLorean DMC-12, LX SS Hatch, VY Cross8 Crewman
- Joined: 09-November 05
Posted 28 January 2010 - 07:49 AM
Black is pure car porn!
#230
_dirtbag_
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Posted 28 January 2010 - 06:20 PM
Well today saw a few more little things get either started or ticked off the list.
The gearbox came out so the underside of the tunnel could get a good clean.
The crossmember that I had to cut through to fit the gearbox also got finished today. Where it was cut was welded to the new section from underneath, so it's all tied together now.
You can see through the shifter hole where the old crossmember has been welded to the new metal. It's not pretty, but I can bet you it's damn strong. Once it's had a bit of a grind It'll look better.
If you look on the outside of the tunnel where the new support is nearest the front you can see where the weld has penetrated from underneath where the old crossmember meets the new one.
With the LS1 due to go back in soon I hope, I knew the heater box would need attacking to allow room for the motor.
Here it is prior top chopping.
No stopping me now!!!!!
I screwed the heater box to a piece of 19mm MDF and marked out where the inside edges were. This was made easier by the gaping hole I'd just cut into it : )
I then used a jigsaw to cut the centre section out from in between where the mounting screws were. I then aped the edges, so the fibreglass wouldn't stick to the MDF.
The reason for doing all of this is so the heater box will keep it's shape while I fibreglass it back together. Cutting the hole in the MDF means I can gain access to the inside of the heater box to do the actual fibreglassing.
Here it is with all the bits taped into position. Make sure all the surfaces are sanded rough and super clean before fibreglassing.
And here's the heater all 'glassed up. It's a stinking hot day today so didn't take long to dry.
This is what it looked like with the tape removed from the outside. It's certainly going to give the motor more room, and still function as an air duct.
It has a much thinner profile now.
Once it's had a bit of filler work it should look fine.
The gearbox came out so the underside of the tunnel could get a good clean.
The crossmember that I had to cut through to fit the gearbox also got finished today. Where it was cut was welded to the new section from underneath, so it's all tied together now.
You can see through the shifter hole where the old crossmember has been welded to the new metal. It's not pretty, but I can bet you it's damn strong. Once it's had a bit of a grind It'll look better.
If you look on the outside of the tunnel where the new support is nearest the front you can see where the weld has penetrated from underneath where the old crossmember meets the new one.
With the LS1 due to go back in soon I hope, I knew the heater box would need attacking to allow room for the motor.
Here it is prior top chopping.
No stopping me now!!!!!
I screwed the heater box to a piece of 19mm MDF and marked out where the inside edges were. This was made easier by the gaping hole I'd just cut into it : )
I then used a jigsaw to cut the centre section out from in between where the mounting screws were. I then aped the edges, so the fibreglass wouldn't stick to the MDF.
The reason for doing all of this is so the heater box will keep it's shape while I fibreglass it back together. Cutting the hole in the MDF means I can gain access to the inside of the heater box to do the actual fibreglassing.
Here it is with all the bits taped into position. Make sure all the surfaces are sanded rough and super clean before fibreglassing.
And here's the heater all 'glassed up. It's a stinking hot day today so didn't take long to dry.
This is what it looked like with the tape removed from the outside. It's certainly going to give the motor more room, and still function as an air duct.
It has a much thinner profile now.
Once it's had a bit of filler work it should look fine.
#231
_evil UC hatch_
_evil UC hatch_
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Posted 28 January 2010 - 06:33 PM
is that allyou did today? mabey you should start mixing that nescafe with redbull 
#232
_dirtbag_
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Posted 28 January 2010 - 06:48 PM
Next job on the agenda was to fit the bonnet catch properly. The lower mount on a UC is totally different to an LX so a new one was made from some small thick walled angle iron.
The top radiator support bar has been made removable. When I did that, I actually flipped it over 180 degrees as the top of it was really bent and ugly. The bottom of it was perfect, hence the flip over. The only problem is that the holes now didn't line up with the bonnet catch. New captive nuts were fitted and the old holes welded up. Simple.
This is the first time it's had the LX bonnet catch fully bolted in. Yay.
The chrome bonnet latch was also fitted and adjusted.
Finally the bonnet is latched down without a bungy strap
Next thing to do was to start mounting the headlights. I made a cardboard template and transferred it to a piece of 2mm steel.
I took a guess at the size of the hole I had to cut by tracing a 5 inch cutting disc.
The headlight sat about 10mm too far out, so my guess wasn't too bad.
To fix the problem I just flared the edges of the hole so the headlight bucket could sit in a bit further. It looks neater too in my opinion.
I screwed the light in temporarily with some long wood screws, so I could get the light to stay still while I measured how long to make the mounting brackets.
And no, the wiring wont be staying there, it will go through the front of the headlight bucket, behind the nose cone.
Just a look at the new piece from the front.
With the light secured by the screws I was able to take some measurements for the mounting tabs. I didn't get a chance to make them today, but that's what tomorrows are for.
That's it for another day.
There you go Jason you smart a$$ hahahaha
I always like to get as much done in each session as I can, but some things, like mounting lights perfectly in the middle of a big opening takes longer than you'd think. That's my excuse anyway : )
The top radiator support bar has been made removable. When I did that, I actually flipped it over 180 degrees as the top of it was really bent and ugly. The bottom of it was perfect, hence the flip over. The only problem is that the holes now didn't line up with the bonnet catch. New captive nuts were fitted and the old holes welded up. Simple.
This is the first time it's had the LX bonnet catch fully bolted in. Yay.
The chrome bonnet latch was also fitted and adjusted.
Finally the bonnet is latched down without a bungy strap
Next thing to do was to start mounting the headlights. I made a cardboard template and transferred it to a piece of 2mm steel.
I took a guess at the size of the hole I had to cut by tracing a 5 inch cutting disc.
The headlight sat about 10mm too far out, so my guess wasn't too bad.
To fix the problem I just flared the edges of the hole so the headlight bucket could sit in a bit further. It looks neater too in my opinion.
I screwed the light in temporarily with some long wood screws, so I could get the light to stay still while I measured how long to make the mounting brackets.
And no, the wiring wont be staying there, it will go through the front of the headlight bucket, behind the nose cone.
Just a look at the new piece from the front.
With the light secured by the screws I was able to take some measurements for the mounting tabs. I didn't get a chance to make them today, but that's what tomorrows are for.
That's it for another day.
There you go Jason you smart a$$ hahahaha
I always like to get as much done in each session as I can, but some things, like mounting lights perfectly in the middle of a big opening takes longer than you'd think. That's my excuse anyway : )
#233
_evil UC hatch_
_evil UC hatch_
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Posted 28 January 2010 - 07:25 PM
haha I guess I was a bit quick with that remark then hey?
#234
Posted 28 January 2010 - 09:08 PM
^ Some might say premature...
Headlight mounting looks really nice, you must have a lot patience with this stuff to be bothered making the second one for the other side!
Headlight mounting looks really nice, you must have a lot patience with this stuff to be bothered making the second one for the other side!
#235
_evil UC hatch_
_evil UC hatch_
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Posted 28 January 2010 - 09:29 PM
^ Some might say premature...
oh ok, I will stay up late and watch tv, there will be an add that has a number of someone who can help me with that
#236
_dirtbag_
_dirtbag_
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Posted 28 January 2010 - 09:29 PM
Oh crap, do I have to make another one?
#237
_DomDom_
_DomDom_
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Posted 29 January 2010 - 03:20 PM
Oh crap, do I have to make another one?
I Hope so!
#238
_dirtbag_
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Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:14 PM
Hello again. Well today saw the headlight mounting tabs get made for both lights.
I was thinking about welding the backing plate in, but thought being able to remove it might be easier for any future headlight issues. I'll just bolt the backing plates in with some more stainless allen bolts, same as the flares and bonnet scoop have.
The mounting tabs were tricky, as the bucket doesn't sit level with the backing plate.
They're not pretty, but they're strong.
Here's the plate fitted so you can see the 3 mounting tabs that secure the headlight bucket. Getting this in the perfect position was a little tricky, but I somehow managed to fluke it in the end.
I got the other headlight backing plate finished today as well.
Here's the other headlight bucket fitted onto its new mounting tabs. I'm really happy with the position of the lights in the opening. With the surrounds in place they look really good.
Here's both plates clamped in place with the headlights screwed in. I think the look is nice and clean from the inside. Once it's all painted I think it will be a nice touch having no wiring.
The rest of the day was spent dry rubbing the car with 120 grit to get it ready for its next lot of primer. I'm hoping to get that done tomorrow.
The flywheel and ARP bolts arrived too. That flywheel is seriously light. I just need to get the sump back from the welder to fit it all back together and start making extractors.
I was thinking about welding the backing plate in, but thought being able to remove it might be easier for any future headlight issues. I'll just bolt the backing plates in with some more stainless allen bolts, same as the flares and bonnet scoop have.
The mounting tabs were tricky, as the bucket doesn't sit level with the backing plate.
They're not pretty, but they're strong.
Here's the plate fitted so you can see the 3 mounting tabs that secure the headlight bucket. Getting this in the perfect position was a little tricky, but I somehow managed to fluke it in the end.
I got the other headlight backing plate finished today as well.
Here's the other headlight bucket fitted onto its new mounting tabs. I'm really happy with the position of the lights in the opening. With the surrounds in place they look really good.
Here's both plates clamped in place with the headlights screwed in. I think the look is nice and clean from the inside. Once it's all painted I think it will be a nice touch having no wiring.
The rest of the day was spent dry rubbing the car with 120 grit to get it ready for its next lot of primer. I'm hoping to get that done tomorrow.
The flywheel and ARP bolts arrived too. That flywheel is seriously light. I just need to get the sump back from the welder to fit it all back together and start making extractors.
#239
Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:06 AM
The headlights turned out really nice.
Looking forward to seeing these... and start making extractors.
#240
_dirtbag_
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Posted 30 January 2010 - 11:44 PM
Looking forward to seeing these
I'm looking forward to seeing them too. Not so excited about building them : )
#241
_dirtbag_
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Posted 01 February 2010 - 12:45 AM
Well here's a bit more of an update. Not a lot has changed but I did manage to get a bucket load of dry sanding done and fix up some minor imperfections.
Nothing more fun than hours of sanding : )
It's nice in Qld summer when you're all sweaty and then there's this primer dust all over you. Lovely!
Just filling some minor problems. I couldn't even feel these low spots, I only found them by sanding with a long block.
You can sort of see where the little bits of filler are. They're pretty much see through it's that thin, but had to be done. I should have found all the imperfections by now, but that's kind of what this whole process is about. Getting it as good as possible. Plus I find it a lot easier to see what's going on with this darker primer.
All the flares got a rub down as well with 120grit paper ready for more primer. Then the rain came, so I just kept sanding other bits instead.
The good thing about the rain is my little volksrod gets a wash.
The hatch is the last panel to get sorted out properly. It's pretty good now, but still has some little wobbles. I just smeared the problem areas and will block it out next week. It's probably only about 1mm thick at the moment, but should make all the difference. The sun is coming out again so want to get some primer on other panels.
The primer went on fairly well. While it's wet and somewhat glossy I can see if the panel has any faults. I have to say it's all looking really good. So it should, it's taken long enough.
All the flares, bonnet scoop, cowl panel and headlight mounts all got a few coats as well.
The bonnet that was such a pain is finally spot on.
The scoop is looking a lot better too.
Nothing more fun than hours of sanding : )
It's nice in Qld summer when you're all sweaty and then there's this primer dust all over you. Lovely!
Just filling some minor problems. I couldn't even feel these low spots, I only found them by sanding with a long block.
You can sort of see where the little bits of filler are. They're pretty much see through it's that thin, but had to be done. I should have found all the imperfections by now, but that's kind of what this whole process is about. Getting it as good as possible. Plus I find it a lot easier to see what's going on with this darker primer.
All the flares got a rub down as well with 120grit paper ready for more primer. Then the rain came, so I just kept sanding other bits instead.
The good thing about the rain is my little volksrod gets a wash.
The hatch is the last panel to get sorted out properly. It's pretty good now, but still has some little wobbles. I just smeared the problem areas and will block it out next week. It's probably only about 1mm thick at the moment, but should make all the difference. The sun is coming out again so want to get some primer on other panels.
The primer went on fairly well. While it's wet and somewhat glossy I can see if the panel has any faults. I have to say it's all looking really good. So it should, it's taken long enough.
All the flares, bonnet scoop, cowl panel and headlight mounts all got a few coats as well.
The bonnet that was such a pain is finally spot on.
The scoop is looking a lot better too.
#242
Stinga
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Posted 01 February 2010 - 05:26 PM
everythings looking top notch, bonnet and scoop came up a treat. this post was really just an excuse to mention the volksrod, i love it! i noticed it earlier in the thread and was going to mention it. whats the deal with it?
#243
_Woodsy_
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Posted 01 February 2010 - 08:41 PM
Ahhhh this is one inspiring build..
#244
_niterida_
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Posted 01 February 2010 - 08:54 PM
Hey Tim - your metal work skills are awesome but have you seen the latest Street Machine mag where they make a complete 1/4 panel from a flat section of steel by hand - farkin awesome !!
That should be your next project - build a car from scratch - I reckon you could do just about do that
That should be your next project - build a car from scratch - I reckon you could do just about do that
#245
greens nice
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- Name:Kevin
- Location:QLD
- Car:EH Holden
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Posted 01 February 2010 - 09:20 PM
everythings looking top notch, bonnet and scoop came up a treat. this post was really just an excuse to mention the volksrod, i love it! i noticed it earlier in the thread and was going to mention it. whats the deal with it?
yes, please tell me you drive it around town !
#246
Peter UC
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Posted 02 February 2010 - 12:08 PM
I noticed you reversed the trailing arms (so made them leading arms) on the Volksrod, any reason you went with this method over the more common front end relocation?
Oh you build has been very enjoyble to follow, although I wish you stuck to more UC bits though.
Oh you build has been very enjoyble to follow, although I wish you stuck to more UC bits though.
#247
_dirtbag_
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Posted 02 February 2010 - 12:22 PM
Hi Peter UC. There are still heaps of UC bits left. The roof, doors, rear quarters, most of the floor, most of the front guards. OK, that's enough, I know what you mean : ) My brother couldn't find an LX at a reasonable price so this is the result. I know UC people will frown at it, but at least it's not an XD falcon : )
As for the front trailling arms on the dakdak, they're not reversed. I've lengthened the wheelbase 10 inches by moving the front beam forward.
Here's the front end when it was stock.
Here's the beam extender fitted and steering lengthened etc.
And here it is now.
Here's a pic of the extender without the beam on, so you can see what it is.
This beam extender lengthens the wheel base by 10 inches and lowers the car 2 1/2 inches. I then welded adjusters into the front beam so the car is now about 5 inches lower than stock.
Hope that helps.
As for the front trailling arms on the dakdak, they're not reversed. I've lengthened the wheelbase 10 inches by moving the front beam forward.
Here's the front end when it was stock.
Here's the beam extender fitted and steering lengthened etc.
And here it is now.
Here's a pic of the extender without the beam on, so you can see what it is.
This beam extender lengthens the wheel base by 10 inches and lowers the car 2 1/2 inches. I then welded adjusters into the front beam so the car is now about 5 inches lower than stock.
Hope that helps.
#248
_niterida_
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Posted 02 February 2010 - 02:08 PM
Thats not a Volkswagen - this is a Volkswagen :
I lowered it another 2 inches at the fornt but don't have any photos of it like that :-(
I lowered it another 2 inches at the fornt but don't have any photos of it like that :-(
Edited by niterida, 02 February 2010 - 02:09 PM.
#249
_dirtbag_
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Posted 02 February 2010 - 08:38 PM
Hehe Ken. Mine isn't a volkswagen, it's a dakdak : ) You lowered the front another 2 inches? With those tyres? You must like the sweet smell of burning rubber, on your guard lips. mmmm....rubber....
Another thing I find really funny about this car is the interior I did for it. Here it is when I bought it.
And here it is now
Haha. It makes me laugh whenever I look at it. Obviously this car is very serious........NOT!!!!!! It has an EMPI quick shift though, because it really needs that
Here's another little project I have for a rainy day. It's a 1957 oval window.
Well that's enough about dakdaks!
Another thing I find really funny about this car is the interior I did for it. Here it is when I bought it.
And here it is now
Haha. It makes me laugh whenever I look at it. Obviously this car is very serious........NOT!!!!!! It has an EMPI quick shift though, because it really needs that
Here's another little project I have for a rainy day. It's a 1957 oval window.
Well that's enough about dakdaks!
#250
_Skapinad_
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Posted 02 February 2010 - 08:48 PM
LOL nightirder, Tim's is Bigger !!
love your work Tim... such interest in your build means you have to keep moving at a great rate of knots, cant wait to see it finished........................in Black !
love your work Tim... such interest in your build means you have to keep moving at a great rate of knots, cant wait to see it finished........................in Black !
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