Fixing my brothers UC hatch
#301 _lxss5l_
Posted 07 February 2010 - 11:24 PM
#302
Posted 08 February 2010 - 06:55 AM
How can you be right when I am? It doesn't make sense...
Don't let anyone talk you out of chrome bumpers!
Try and stop me lol
I think chrome verses paint is like flares verses stright each to their own
ofcause I know I am right though and paint is better like mine
#303
Posted 08 February 2010 - 08:09 AM
#304 _dirtbag_
Posted 08 February 2010 - 08:31 AM
As for my car, well I have a J10 jeep and a V8 hilux 2wd as my main cars, a couple of old beetles and have just scored a one owner MK1 2 door escort which will be getting the works flares and huge wheels. No toranas for me unfortunately. I'd love to build another one, but they're getting too expensive for my tight a$$ budget
I had nothing at all to do with the green hatch. He had it painted by a mob in Gympie about 15 years ago, and had Widowmaker assemble the engine, then he did most of the rest of it himself. The rear tyres are 295/50/15 Toyo Proxy, which are actually classed as SUV tyres. They're nice and square edged and are a lot wider than 295mm, especially in a 12 inch rim.
76lxhatch, you're right, it is weird that he can be right when you obviously are hahahahaha. Let's see how far we can go with this disagreement
Hi my22427. Thanks for the info. I kind of assumed it would mount on the column mount, but the mounts on the pedal are on the left side, but today I'll be looking at how it goes together and fingers crossed my pea brain can get it sorted : )
Is your avatar your car? Is that the one with the chassis rails trimmed at a 45 degree angle? Very nice!!!!! Me likey
#305 _dirtbag_
Posted 08 February 2010 - 08:38 AM
Here's the airbox I made to fit it all under the scoop.
#306
Posted 08 February 2010 - 08:41 AM
#307 _dirtbag_
Posted 08 February 2010 - 08:49 AM
The donk. I knew there would be too much crap in the engine to bother making it look nice and clean, as I wanted to keep the A/C and P/S etc, so instead I wanted to go for a factory look with it. I don't think it looks too bad. I welded a four barrel opening into that old 2 barrel air cleaner and cut 6 35mm holes out from around the back of the air cleaner body so it could breath but still have the old stock look to it.
Yeah, it nearly always turned out yellow in photos.
So, anyone want to swap their torana for a good little work truck?
Edited by dirtbag, 08 February 2010 - 08:46 AM.
#308
Posted 08 February 2010 - 09:52 AM
#309
Posted 08 February 2010 - 03:58 PM
When I�m up that way next visiting the old man, I must come and say G-Day & have a gander at the UC-LX.
Cheers Paul.
#310 _evil UC hatch_
Posted 08 February 2010 - 06:56 PM
So, anyone want to swap their torana for a good little work truck?
ok
changed your mind yet?
#311 _LH8VD69_
Posted 09 February 2010 - 05:24 PM
What a thread Ive even saved it to my favs !!
#312 _dirtbag_
Posted 09 February 2010 - 06:28 PM
Just thought I'd stick a few more pics in here.
Here's the steering wheel my brother bought. I like it.
Next it was time to fit the Mal Wood clutch pedal. He must be a billionaire by now. Interesting prices.
Thanks to myss427 I found how the pedal mounted. I might have figured it out without the help, but I am pretty stupid, so credit goes to him
Plus, he has a big block hatch...........bastard Me? Jealous? Hell yes!!!!!
One of the mounting bolts is already fixed to the bracket, but the other one wasn't. Once I saw where it mounted I figured making the bolt captive would make fitting and removal a lot easier. So I welded the bolt to the bracket.
Here's the bolt before welding. You can see the big flat washer supplied with the pedal. Made it a lot easier to weld together with the washer there.
Here's the bolt welded. I also reshaped the sides of the bracket a little so the hose for the remote reservoir could go out the side, instead of straight ahead out the firewall. This will all be staying under the dash.
First thing I noticed after fitting the new clutch pedal was how incredibly out of alignment the brake pedal was.
Here's the brake pedal. I'm going to straighten it up a little.
Then after straightening it with my bare hands it looked like this hahaha
Then once it was put back together it looked a bit better. Still not 100%, but a vast improvement.
I refitted the dash temporarily so I could see how the A/C plumbing would go. The main hoses that come out of the unit will be really hard to get on, or get at later, as they're going to be so close to the kick panel. It will be a real pain if the whole unit has to be removed if it ever needs anything done to it.
I decided making some short hoses to go from the unit to the inner guard would be the go. That way the short hoses can become a permanent fixture to the unit, and the lines to the compressor can bolt on inside the inner guard. So that's the plan, anyway.
Also, in the pic it looks like there is a fair bit of room, but the dash is just hanging there. It goes forward about 2 inches when it's in the right spot.
The computer and wiring loom for the motor have been sent away now to get reprogrammed and made adaptable to the torana. It's still a bloody big long list, but at least a few things are getting ticked off.
The motor looks a lot better without all the loom piled on top of it.
Today I had the new hoses made up to get the fittings from the underside of the A/C unit to the inner guard.
I didn't get a chance to do anything with them today, but tomorrow is their day.
#313
Posted 09 February 2010 - 06:58 PM
Mick.
#314
Posted 09 February 2010 - 08:53 PM
I have been working on the A/C setup for my car recently. I have found a few fittings and tricks to get into tight spaces. The #10 and #6 reduced hose will fit inside the chassis rail.
The fittings in the following photo from left to right are.
#10 Standard hose (OD 25 mm) #10 FOR 90 beadlock fitting
#10 Reduced hose (OD 19.5 mm) #10 FOR 90 reduced beadlock fitting
#6 Standard hose (OD 18.5 mm) #6 FOR 90 beadlock fitting
#6 Reduced hose (OD 14.5 mm ) #6 FOR 90 reduced beadlock fitting
#10 Aeroquip braided A/C hose (OD 16.0 mm) Aeroquip #10 FOR reusable A/C fitting
#6 Aeroquip braided A/C hose (OD 13.7 mm) ProFlow #6 FOR reusable A/C fitting
The Aeroquip and ProFlow fittings are the same design however the machining and finish on the ProFlow fittings makes the Aeroquip fittings look bad.
3 mm Aluminium plate/bulkhead setup. You can use a MIOR and FOR fitting to get through a bulkhead up to around 3 mm thick instead of using a separate bulkhead fitting.
#10 Reduced MIOR 90 beadlock connected to #6 reduced straight FOR beadlock
#6 Reduced MIOR 90 beadlock connected to #6 reduced straight FOR beadlock
#315 _dirtbag_
Posted 09 February 2010 - 09:12 PM
Another thing, and this may sound like a silly question, but I have no pride so here goes : ) Does the LS1 have a return line for the fuel? I can't find one anywhere.
Again, many thanks for sharing all your info. It's greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the kind words Mick. Is the hatch in you avatar yours? It looks awesome. Want to swap it for a V8 hilux? hahahaha
#316 _lxefi304_
Posted 09 February 2010 - 09:22 PM
#317
Posted 09 February 2010 - 09:54 PM
I have always planned to run a return line system however it does create more issues than it is probably worth. I still may change my mind and run a deadhead system.
1. You have to run an extra fuel line and space is always an issue.
2. The fuel in the tank is heated as it travels through the fuel rails. On long runs or low fuel tank levels this can be a serious problem. I plan to fit a heat sink on the return line.
3. The reg should be mounted in the engine bay on a return line system.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 09 February 2010 - 09:58 PM.
#318 _dirtbag_
Posted 10 February 2010 - 05:43 AM
Does it need a fuel reg at the tank?
My friend (green hatch guy) came over again and got into the floor with a few chisels and a wire wheels to remove all the tar sheeting from the floor, as I was a bit worried what might be hiding under there.
It wasn't too bad though. Just a hole in the base of the passengers side A pillar and some holes drilled in front of the drivers seat. I'm thinking for a fire extinguisher maybe? None of this stuff was visible until the tar was removed.
You can see how nice the floor came up after some wire wheeling.
There was a little bit of rust inside the pillar too. This was treated and plated before the new outer piece was fitted.
The drivers floor had all the holes welded too.
The VP commodore that donated its rear brakes also donated it's foot rest. I had to modify it a little, but it fitted easily.
Next it was time to put the diff back together with the VP disc brakes.
At this stage I thought I'd rip the tail pipes out as I was going to try new rear coils. Look how horrible and tight the welded bend is over the diff. Good flow there : )
All the old rear brakes are completely removed, including the brake lines and flexi line, as it will all be getting changed to metric.
The spring on the right is the coil I pulled out of the torana, the spring on the left is from an IRS commodore. I heard on this site they were good for lowering toranas, so I thought I'd give it a go.
There's less coils too, so I assume they'll be a bit firmer too.
It looks to me like the diff has moved a bit higher in the guard. I'll know for sure when it's back together with a wheel on it. I did have to cut the tiny coil off each end of the commodore springs, so they'd fit over the torana spring seats.
I got the new rear bearings pressed on, as the collets said not to heat them to install. The guys at the diff shop also ran the axles in the lathe to check they were straight. All good news.
The commodore brakes fit straight on, except for one problem we came across that we didn't come across when doing this to the green hatch.
The calipers hit the shock. This didn't happen on the green car. When you view it from directly behind, the shocks taper outwards towards the bottom. I assumed they'd be straight up and down. All I can think of is whoever did the 9 inch conversion might have put the lower mounts in the wrong position. Meaning the lower arms might be out a bit too. I'm going to try and sort his out today.
This is just an earlier shot of the car to compare how the back sits now with the commodore springs fitted.
And this is how it is now.
It's come down a little bit. Looks much better in my opinion.
I finally got the headlights I ordered. Third time lucky.
Well that's it for now.
#319
Posted 10 February 2010 - 07:09 AM
now they are like assholes! haha.
Good work as always dude.
So whats going on with the underside?
Black, body colour, leaving it sound proofed??
#320 _eh-buddy_
Posted 10 February 2010 - 10:17 AM
hhhm i was just trawling another site that i look at from time to time
tim is this you? if so you are a legend
#321
Posted 10 February 2010 - 10:31 AM
Options
1. Swap backing plates over and run the calliper in front of the axle. This does make connecting the handbrake difficult. It tried this method but was not happy with the handbrake setup.
2. Cut the hub off the backing plate and rotate the calliper mount to the 2 o'clock position and weld the plate back on. You can just see the weld like in this picture where the hub joins the backing plate. I have used this method but then decided to make the diff 10 mm wider.
3. Make the diff 10 mm wider and run the calliper in the standard position. I have used this method.
4. Relocate the lower shock mount. I considered this method but was not happy with the shock to body clearance.
5. Use Nissan Skyline callipers. I was not aware of this method when I did my diff.
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/index.php?showtopic=29806&view=findpost&p=453104
The Skyline callipers appears to be the easiest to setup for a handbrake ( Personally think the Commodore handbrake setup is crap ). Apparently the Commodore calliper and pad selection is better however this is probably not an issue for a street car.
I have the Commodore callipers but if I was to do it again I would try the Skyline.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 10 February 2010 - 10:43 AM.
#322 _@milco@_
Posted 10 February 2010 - 11:06 AM
#323
Posted 10 February 2010 - 01:25 PM
I wouldn't use the IRS springs if you are putting big wheels on it and it's a street car... they are bloody stiff and you really need a decent profile tyre to take up some of the slackThe spring on the right is the coil I pulled out of the torana, the spring on the left is from an IRS commodore. I heard on this site they were good for lowering toranas, so I thought I'd give it a go.
There's less coils too, so I assume they'll be a bit firmer too.
I run them in mine and I like them, but back seat passengers think they are the worst. and they do make driving over level crossings and shit an uncomfortable experience. Still see how you go, doesn't cost anything to try them!
Edited by Heath, 10 February 2010 - 01:27 PM.
#324
Posted 10 February 2010 - 02:08 PM
Calipers, mounting brackets and discs required to get the standard Nissan angle without cutting and welding (different diameter and offset rotors)5. Use Nissan Skyline callipers. I was not aware of this method when I did my diff.
#325 _dirtbag_
Posted 10 February 2010 - 06:34 PM
eh-buddy, yeah, you got me, that's me behind the wheel of a friends kombi camper I restored a year or two ago.
orangelj, when I first thought about those lights I too thought they were everywhere, so I took notice of cars getting around for a couple of weeks and never saw one set. Either way, I like them better than standard lights : )
Heath, I guess we'll have to wait and see if the tyres will take up some of the roughness. It'll have 265/50/15s on it, so at least they have a bit of sidewall in them.
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