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1 votes

Fixing my brothers UC hatch

Started by _dirtbag_ , Dec 30 2009 01:19 PM

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#776 _dirtbag_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 09:52 AM

hahahahahahaha ...... love it :rockon:

I've never painted one of my own cars red since. I did do up an HZ premier a while ago that I painted the bumpers, so does that make up for it?

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#777 _Kush_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 10:00 AM

Ferrari red is the fastest red of them all. Oh, and painted bumpers look cool...... In Ferrari red

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#778 _cruiza_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 11:16 AM

the best one is where you paint the car bumpers and all in a nice rich blood red and do you other toys in matching colours

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even got the matching black bonnets lol,

I will see if I can find a better pic of the bike as when had that painted I had the painter put a tiny hint of red pearl in the second to last coat of clear so to look at it was a flat red but it had a lot of kick your eyeballs out power to it,

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#779 Statler

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 11:29 AM

Dont they paint fire trucks red so they can get there faster?

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#780 orangeLJ

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 11:49 AM

I always thought they were red so the pedestrians they hit on the way dont leave stains?

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#781 _dirtbag_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 01:19 PM

I think red is more of a mid-life crisis colour best suited to Mazda MX5s and MGs : )

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#782 _Kush_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 01:23 PM

Cruiza, I can see a chrome tailpipe on that bike

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#783 _niterida_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 01:26 PM

Yeah dirtbag, that car looks sweet. It's what I'm going for. Could I use fibreglass to blend the flares to the guards or would body filler be better? I don't think much of either would be needed. It's just so I could get away from using the rubber strips. Thanks and keep up the awesomness

In my opinion it doesn't matter how well you do this it will crack along the join - you may be able to delay it but it will happen.

Also it will look like crap. I think because the flares are so big and don't really follow the body shape then they are definitely a bolt-on item, and the bolts and/or rubber define it as a bolt-on. Once you smooth them in to look like part of the car it just doesn't look right.

The smooth flare with no bolts looks good (as long as the rubber strip is still there) although I think it would look better on a UC since they are a bit smoother than the LX.

So Tim - when do we get to see photos of the paint ??

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#784 orangeLJ

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 02:31 PM

It wont crack as easily as you think Ken, there isnt many direct forces acting on the flare, so aslong as the wheels dont come into contact, they flare should never experience enough flex to crack the fibreglass/bog.

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#785 _cruiza_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 02:50 PM

I think red is more of a mid-life crisis colour best suited to Mazda MX5s and MGs : )

Are you saying I had a mid life crisis at 21? oh and thanks for the comparison to gay guy cars

Sorry Kush no chrome here
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Oh and for anyone interested in that sort of thing back in the day of square rig sailing ships the frigates and battle ships of the day had their interiors painted red so the so the crews were not put off by the sight of blood

Edited by cruiza, 07 May 2010 - 02:53 PM.

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#786 _dirtbag_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 04:21 PM

Are you saying I had a mid life crisis at 21? oh and thanks for the comparison to gay guy cars

You're welcome : )

So Tim - when do we get to see photos of the paint ??

As soon as it's done, I promise. Shouldn't be too long before the engine bay and jams are done.

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#787 _dirtbag_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 04:52 PM

So now I'm going to again prove how stupid I am. How do I add quotes from other peoples post, so it says who posted it and when?

Yes, I really am that bad with computers : (

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#788 _niterida_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 05:03 PM

So now I'm going to again prove how stupid I am. How do I add quotes from other peoples post, so it says who posted it and when?

Yes, I really am that bad with computers : (

For one post just click REPLY button

For more than one post click MULTIQUOTE on each post that you want to quote. The Multiquote button will trun green on each post and then click the orange ADD REPLY at the bottom of the page.

Edited by niterida, 07 May 2010 - 05:04 PM.

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#789 _niterida_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 05:11 PM

It wont crack as easily as you think Ken, there isnt many direct forces acting on the flare, so aslong as the wheels dont come into contact, they flare should never experience enough flex to crack the fibreglass/bog.

Its not just the flare flexing that causes the crack - it is the whole flare moving in relation to the guard.
Just the weight of the flare as you go over bumps will be enough to make it try to pull away from the body.
It will crack eventually - even hood scoops glassed in to the bonnet where there is very little force acting on them still crack.

Its up to the individual but I know I certainly wouldn't be doing it.

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#790 _dirtbag_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 05:18 PM

It wont crack as easily as you think Ken, there isnt many direct forces acting on the flare, so aslong as the wheels dont come into contact, they flare should never experience enough flex to crack the fibreglass/bog.

Its not just the flare flexing that causes the crack - it is the whole flare moving in relation to the guard.
Just the weight of the flare as you go over bumps will be enough to make it try to pull away from the body.
It will crack eventually - even hood scoops glassed in to the bonnet where there is very little force acting on them still crack.

Its up to the individual but I know I certainly wouldn't be doing it.

Yeah, I wouldn't mould them in myself either, but I like that different people like different things.

If I was to do it, I'd sikaflex the inner edge of the flares where they touch the body, then bolt them on. Then I'd fibreglass over the top.

Ken is right though, as even the changes in weather with expansion and contraction can cause problems.

Moulded in bonnet scoops would be more likely to let go than flares as they are generally under pressure, but I too have seen a few with cracks around them.

If you want to give it a go, give it a go. All you can do is try.

Thanks for the help regarding quotes in posts. Look, I did it : ) ^^^

Edited by dirtbag, 07 May 2010 - 05:19 PM.

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#791 _mick74lh_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 07:56 PM

Here Kush, sorry if these photos are kind of crap but they give you an idea of what the moulded in flares could look like. This one was featured in Extreme Holdens sometime last year. When I first saw it I was a bit like 'what the hell?' but it looks like the guy has spent alot of time getting them perfect. Hes done a nice job.

Whether it looks 'good' or 'bad' is such a subjective thing its not worth debating. It would be interesting to see you give it a go I reckon.

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#792 _Kush_

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 08:06 PM

Hi mick74lh, yeah I hear you. I like a good "can do" attitude. I know it will look cool, because I've seen other cars like it. Different strokes for different folks. But I'll post up my build soon. After all, this is dirtbags thread.

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#793 Peter UC

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 08:14 PM

Also remember that flares are made in polyester resin which constantly moves, that is why you always see the missalignment on rear sedan flares, I really like the smoothed over flares, but I think they require the rubber strip to stop cracking problems.
Anyway getting back on topic, really looking forward to seeing this car painted, it is the main thread I am interested in on this forum, apart from holden 6 engine related threads.

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#794 76lxhatch

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 10:00 PM

Whether it looks 'good' or 'bad' is such a subjective thing its not worth debating. It would be interesting to see you give it a go I reckon.

Its just not right - I mean, who would do something as silly as paint the bumpers...?

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#795 _dirtbag_

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 06:58 AM

OK, I see where this is going. All this talk of painted bumpers and moulded in flares. I'm going to mould the bumpers into the body : ) hehehe

OK cruiza, I dug out a couple of pics of my old HZ prem that I painted the bumpers for. Mainly because the chrome was knackered, so I painted all the chrome except for the sill trim and wheel arch trims. I took every piece and sanded, primed and top coated. I even took the indicators and tail lights apart to paint. That's why I'll never do it again!!!!! : )

Of course being one of my old cars, I shaved all the badges and door handles too : )

This is another of my "less than $400" paint jobs in acrylic straight black with crap loads of clear over the top. I'll never clear a solid colour again either.

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#796 _Kush_

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 07:12 AM

Hey dirtbag, when you are doing your welding on panels etc. What technique are you using? Is it the old "slowly but surely" spotting method, or a backstepping stitch or do you just do a straight run?

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#797 _dirtbag_

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 07:17 AM

Hi Kush. For most small panel welding I use the spot method with a mig, as I personally find it warps less. If I was to do a bigger section, such as filling in a sunroof hole etc, I'd use the mig to tack it into place and then weld it with the oxy. Mig welds are too hard to panel beat, whereas oxy welds are just mild steel and are beaten easily.

For chassis work I just turn the mig up and get into it, but still in sections, as it's easy to warp a chassis too.

Hope that helps.

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#798 _cruiza_

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 07:31 AM

OK, I see where this is going. All this talk of painted bumpers and moulded in flares. I'm going to mould the bumpers into the body : ) hehehe

That was going to be my next suggestion!

Now I really like this, see you do have good taste after all hehehehe

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#799 Heath

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 10:34 AM

I'll never clear a solid colour again either.

Why's that?

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#800 _dirtbag_

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 10:40 AM

Apart from there being no real visible benefit when using acrylic, with the black car getting all the tiny marks out of the paint was a nightmare. If it had dust on it and someone brushed past it, there'd be visible scratches in the paint. I'm talking microns here though. The reason it was visible is scratches in clear are white. Picture that against a black background.

I'm not against clear over base in 2k if there's going to be multiple colours and you want a smooth coat over the top so there's no edges to feel, but I would not suggest it with acrylic. Leave clear for the pearl and metallic colours.