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Fixing my brothers UC hatch


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#801 Heath

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 12:43 PM

Ok, cheers. I bought some acrylic clear to do on metallic bumpers and stuff, I was going to try it on the solid too but maybe I will pass.

#802 _mick74lh_

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 02:29 PM

The other day a bogan was trying to tell me that you should clear solid colours when painting acrylic "cos it comes up smoother off the gun" but I reckon thats BS. Its cheaper and easier to just not clear a solid colour. When you cut out the peel it should come up smooth as without any clear. And then he was telling me that its easier to repair bits and pieces if its been cleared. That doesn't make any sense. Personally I'd only clear over a metallic.

Dirtbag that HZ looks grouse in those photos. But yeah i just reckon clearing over solid colour in acrylic is a waste of time.

Hey Heath, any updates on your racecar?



#803 _dirtbag_

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 03:34 PM

Heath, by all means give it a go. It's just my opinion from my experiences that clear over solids isn't necessary, as well as being a nuisance. I've had a fair few people tell me not to use just colour, for the same reasons mick74lh said about - paints better, easier to fix - and I think it's a load of crap. If the paint is mixed wrong and or the gun is set up wrong clear will go on just as badly as colour, and vice versa. A good set up will have a solid colour go on really well.

As for easier repairs, I can't see why it would be easier. It's another stage in the process that has to be done.

Anyway, that's just my say.


I did a resto on a friends 1976 kombi camper and couple of years ago and I did all the priming in 2pac but did all the topcoat in acrylic. Not only is it a lot cheaper to buy, I can guarantee a faultless finish as it dries so fast. 2pac stays wet for so long that it's inevitable that crap will land in the paint.

He was a little bit sceptical, as his other kombi is 2pac, but he was blown away by the finish considering what it cost. I'm not trying to blow my own trumpet (let's face it, if I could blow my own trumpet I'd never have time to post on this site ) I just want to say to people that acrylic is not only a good cheap easy way to give painting a go, but it's also got good UV protection and decent stone chip resistance nowadays, unlike it was 20 years ago.


The thing that makes an acrylic job good is how smooth you sand it down afterwards. By right, you could brush paint a car in acrylic and sand and buff it down to show quality standards. It just takes some elbow grease and patience.

Now let's see how many people bag me saying 2pac is better : ) Of course it is, but not many people have a booth, or want to spent over $1000 on paint alone.

Anyway, enough crap from me. Here's a pic or two of the dak dak I painted in acrylic solid red and white with no clear.


Looks pretty shiny to me : )


Posted Image

I put a black pinstripe in between the two colours, as that's what his other kombi has too.

Posted Image


The fun thing about colour sanding a colour, rather than clear, is the colour you turn in the process : )


Posted Image


Yummy : ) hahaha

#804 Statler

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 04:12 PM

If that gets any worse, you will end up with a bad case of pink eye.

Consult a doctor......quickly! :)

#805 _Viper_

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 05:03 PM

So you could just lay down say 6 coats of color then just color sand it back and should be pretty much a perfect finish?

#806 Heath

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 05:42 PM

Yeah that's what we all do with acrylic.

Cheers for the feedback dirtbag. Mick, I've done some stuff but not much thread-worthy progress. You'll have to drop in and see what I've been doing.

#807 _Kush_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 01:53 PM

How long do we have to wait until we can see the freshly painted torana??

Edited by Kush, 10 May 2010 - 01:55 PM.


#808 _AD_75_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 02:20 PM

Im sold on 2pac, my mate has been prepping his old falcon ute for a spray and has been doing the pre-spray stuff like insides of the doors ect, anyway yesterday i went around and amongst other things we sprayed the inside of the tailgate in 2pac white which came up perfect and glossy straight off the gun. It also harden'd up really fast we could touch it within little over an hour of spraying it. I think if you spend a good amount of time with body/surface prep, 2pac can almost make almost anyone look good with a spray gun.

#809 _dirtbag_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 02:30 PM

Kush, shouldn't be too long now. I've still got a few panels to prep so hopefully start seeing some insides done in a week or two, depending on how busy they get.


Aido, yeah, 2pac sure is purdy : )

#810 _@milco@_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 03:35 PM

i reckon acrylic is tops, easy to paint, easy to repair, best of all you can do it at home with minimal risk of killing your self/family/pets! also best bet for the home painter bloke is if you stuff it up it's easy to sand off and do again!

#811 _wblje_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 09:11 PM

i started off doing alot of cars in acrylic. then just in my shed at home i started doing 2k and love it. after 10 odd years of not painting nuthn i did my tonner in the new dark commo green. base coat is acrylic but i used a 2k clear cos its tough,goes on thick and can take a lot of abuse. used a mask for about half of the spray. that arvo i started to get twin vision cos the clear was getting sticky on my eye balls so i had to keep blinking to wash it away. becoming one with ones tools is wonderful. picking green boogers is a high light too.

so when is spray day. the combi looks sweet.



#812 _dirtbag_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 10:01 PM

Hey wblje. Yeah, spray paint highs are pretty funny, but not exactly recommended. : )

Just be careful using acrylic base coat with 2pac clear as they have a tendency to delaminate, as the acrylic likes to move around a bit, and the 2 pac doesn't.


Either way, both acrylic and 2pac taste like crap : )

#813 _eh-buddy_

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 08:00 AM

just my two bits on clearing solid colours in acrylic

the only real reason to do it is for strength against stone chips there is no real reason other than that. be real careful painting 2k clear over acrylic base as tim said it will peal off over time

if you realy want a nice deep finish theres nothing like hard work do 3 coats soft block the peel back with 800 the do another 2 coats then soft block it back with 1200 and do a nice "flow coat" or 2 then soft block it with ultra fine and buff with a foam pad and a quality polish/fine cutting compound
you will be sick off sanding by the end off it but you will be left with a nice deep finish that will stand up to everyday use.

my old tafe teacher once said that theres a huge differance in finish's anyone can get a shiny finish with a buff but a nice deep almost wet looking finish is what your after

Edited by eh-buddy, 11 May 2010 - 08:02 AM.


#814 Ruts

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 09:26 AM

Either way, both acrylic and 2pac taste like crap : )
[/quote]

Hey, your not supposed to eat the stuff.

#815 _Kush_

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 09:36 AM

At the risk of sounding shtoopid, i don't know what type of paint is on my car. Is there any way to tell/find out if it's 2k or acryllic?

#816 _jabba_

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 02:38 PM

Put some thinners on a rag and wipe the paint in a hidden area, if the paint comes off with the rag its acrylic otherwise its 2pac

#817 _dirtbag_

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 04:19 PM

I've never been able to wipe acrylic paint off with a rag and thinners, unless it's less than a month old. I wish I could, as it would make stripping cars back a lot easier : )

#818 UCANG

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 11:40 PM

Tim,

I noticed that in most of your pictures, the interior (floor pan etc) is in a chamois type colour. This is very similar to the paint underneath boots etc from the factory on some cars. Can I ask what type of paint is it? Is it special and only used in certain applications?

Interested to know, cheers

#819 _dirtbag_

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Posted 12 May 2010 - 07:43 AM

Hi Ang. The paint on the inside of the car is just 2pac etch primer. It used to me called Sigma, but it's something else now. I'll take a pic of the tin for you later. It's good stuff, and fairly cheap.

#820 orangeLJ

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Posted 12 May 2010 - 11:15 AM

this car, and the writing style look familiar! hahaha

http://cgi.ebay.com....=item439f3c8d03

cleanout?

#821 _dirtbag_

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Posted 12 May 2010 - 04:30 PM

Hi orangeLJ, yeah, that's me. Well spotted.

"Writing style"? I'll take that as a compliment : ) hahaha


Having a bit of a cleanout. We're going to be moving this year as we've just given the builder a deposit to to our new place, so once that's done we'll be selling this house. I've even put my lovely old oval window beetle project car on ebay, to try and clear some stuff out. It's a bit sad, but necessary.

#822 UCANG

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Posted 12 May 2010 - 06:09 PM

Hi Ang. The paint on the inside of the car is just 2pac etch primer. It used to me called Sigma, but it's something else now. I'll take a pic of the tin for you later. It's good stuff, and fairly cheap.


Sweet, so it that your top coat for those areas? Don't you need to seal it as most primers are porous?

#823 _dirtbag_

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Posted 12 May 2010 - 07:09 PM

Hi Ang. The etch primer I use is 2 pac so therefore not porous. Having said that, I wouldn't just paint the outside of a car in etch and then drive it around.

Being the inside of the etch primer will be fine, but I'll be giving it a coat of matt black before the trim goes in anyway, just so it's not so bright/obvious.

#824 UCANG

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Posted 12 May 2010 - 08:25 PM

Ahh excellent info, while your at it :) What sort of rust converter do you use? And does that stuff allow you to leave the car in bare metal while continuing work elsewhere, which it looked you did at the start of the topic. (correct me if i'm wrong)

Cheers man

#825 _dirtbag_

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Posted 15 May 2010 - 07:12 PM

Hi Ang, sorry I haven't replied for a while. The rust converter I use is Plus brand. It's unreal. Paint it on, let it dry, then give it a quick dry sand with some 120 or so then etch prime it. I wouldn't touch the rust converters that need to be washed off with water with a barge pole. Just my opinion.

If the car is in a dry shed then it can stay in acid(converter) for ages. Parts of my wifes firebird are still in acid after a few years.

If it's been in acid for a while though and you want to prime it, the day before priming just sand it quickly with 120 dry and re apply the acid, then the next day it can be sanded and primed.



ATTENTION!!!!!!!


Can anyone near the sunshine coast help me out?????


I need a front crossmember to suit LH/LX/UC. I don't need suspension or anything, just the crossmember. Even if I can borrow one for a few days.

I will buy one if necessary and available.

Please help a poor old Dirtbag : )

Thanks.




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