Fixing my brothers UC hatch
#801
Posted 09 May 2010 - 12:43 PM
#802 _mick74lh_
Posted 09 May 2010 - 02:29 PM
Dirtbag that HZ looks grouse in those photos. But yeah i just reckon clearing over solid colour in acrylic is a waste of time.
Hey Heath, any updates on your racecar?
#803 _dirtbag_
Posted 09 May 2010 - 03:34 PM
As for easier repairs, I can't see why it would be easier. It's another stage in the process that has to be done.
Anyway, that's just my say.
I did a resto on a friends 1976 kombi camper and couple of years ago and I did all the priming in 2pac but did all the topcoat in acrylic. Not only is it a lot cheaper to buy, I can guarantee a faultless finish as it dries so fast. 2pac stays wet for so long that it's inevitable that crap will land in the paint.
He was a little bit sceptical, as his other kombi is 2pac, but he was blown away by the finish considering what it cost. I'm not trying to blow my own trumpet (let's face it, if I could blow my own trumpet I'd never have time to post on this site ) I just want to say to people that acrylic is not only a good cheap easy way to give painting a go, but it's also got good UV protection and decent stone chip resistance nowadays, unlike it was 20 years ago.
The thing that makes an acrylic job good is how smooth you sand it down afterwards. By right, you could brush paint a car in acrylic and sand and buff it down to show quality standards. It just takes some elbow grease and patience.
Now let's see how many people bag me saying 2pac is better : ) Of course it is, but not many people have a booth, or want to spent over $1000 on paint alone.
Anyway, enough crap from me. Here's a pic or two of the dak dak I painted in acrylic solid red and white with no clear.
Looks pretty shiny to me : )
I put a black pinstripe in between the two colours, as that's what his other kombi has too.
The fun thing about colour sanding a colour, rather than clear, is the colour you turn in the process : )
Yummy : ) hahaha
#804
Posted 09 May 2010 - 04:12 PM
Consult a doctor......quickly!
#805 _Viper_
Posted 09 May 2010 - 05:03 PM
#806
Posted 09 May 2010 - 05:42 PM
Cheers for the feedback dirtbag. Mick, I've done some stuff but not much thread-worthy progress. You'll have to drop in and see what I've been doing.
#807 _Kush_
Posted 10 May 2010 - 01:53 PM
Edited by Kush, 10 May 2010 - 01:55 PM.
#808 _AD_75_
Posted 10 May 2010 - 02:20 PM
#809 _dirtbag_
Posted 10 May 2010 - 02:30 PM
Aido, yeah, 2pac sure is purdy : )
#810 _@milco@_
Posted 10 May 2010 - 03:35 PM
#811 _wblje_
Posted 10 May 2010 - 09:11 PM
so when is spray day. the combi looks sweet.
#812 _dirtbag_
Posted 10 May 2010 - 10:01 PM
Just be careful using acrylic base coat with 2pac clear as they have a tendency to delaminate, as the acrylic likes to move around a bit, and the 2 pac doesn't.
Either way, both acrylic and 2pac taste like crap : )
#813 _eh-buddy_
Posted 11 May 2010 - 08:00 AM
the only real reason to do it is for strength against stone chips there is no real reason other than that. be real careful painting 2k clear over acrylic base as tim said it will peal off over time
if you realy want a nice deep finish theres nothing like hard work do 3 coats soft block the peel back with 800 the do another 2 coats then soft block it back with 1200 and do a nice "flow coat" or 2 then soft block it with ultra fine and buff with a foam pad and a quality polish/fine cutting compound
you will be sick off sanding by the end off it but you will be left with a nice deep finish that will stand up to everyday use.
my old tafe teacher once said that theres a huge differance in finish's anyone can get a shiny finish with a buff but a nice deep almost wet looking finish is what your after
Edited by eh-buddy, 11 May 2010 - 08:02 AM.
#814
Posted 11 May 2010 - 09:26 AM
[/quote]
Hey, your not supposed to eat the stuff.
#815 _Kush_
Posted 11 May 2010 - 09:36 AM
#816 _jabba_
Posted 11 May 2010 - 02:38 PM
#817 _dirtbag_
Posted 11 May 2010 - 04:19 PM
#818
Posted 11 May 2010 - 11:40 PM
I noticed that in most of your pictures, the interior (floor pan etc) is in a chamois type colour. This is very similar to the paint underneath boots etc from the factory on some cars. Can I ask what type of paint is it? Is it special and only used in certain applications?
Interested to know, cheers
#819 _dirtbag_
Posted 12 May 2010 - 07:43 AM
#820
Posted 12 May 2010 - 11:15 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com....=item439f3c8d03
cleanout?
#821 _dirtbag_
Posted 12 May 2010 - 04:30 PM
"Writing style"? I'll take that as a compliment : ) hahaha
Having a bit of a cleanout. We're going to be moving this year as we've just given the builder a deposit to to our new place, so once that's done we'll be selling this house. I've even put my lovely old oval window beetle project car on ebay, to try and clear some stuff out. It's a bit sad, but necessary.
#822
Posted 12 May 2010 - 06:09 PM
Hi Ang. The paint on the inside of the car is just 2pac etch primer. It used to me called Sigma, but it's something else now. I'll take a pic of the tin for you later. It's good stuff, and fairly cheap.
Sweet, so it that your top coat for those areas? Don't you need to seal it as most primers are porous?
#823 _dirtbag_
Posted 12 May 2010 - 07:09 PM
Being the inside of the etch primer will be fine, but I'll be giving it a coat of matt black before the trim goes in anyway, just so it's not so bright/obvious.
#824
Posted 12 May 2010 - 08:25 PM
Cheers man
#825 _dirtbag_
Posted 15 May 2010 - 07:12 PM
If the car is in a dry shed then it can stay in acid(converter) for ages. Parts of my wifes firebird are still in acid after a few years.
If it's been in acid for a while though and you want to prime it, the day before priming just sand it quickly with 120 dry and re apply the acid, then the next day it can be sanded and primed.
ATTENTION!!!!!!!
Can anyone near the sunshine coast help me out?????
I need a front crossmember to suit LH/LX/UC. I don't need suspension or anything, just the crossmember. Even if I can borrow one for a few days.
I will buy one if necessary and available.
Please help a poor old Dirtbag : )
Thanks.
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