hi dirtbag,, your doing one hell of a great job there mate,, many times over this as been said,,, just a tip on replacing a hood lining, i dont know how many people have done this or worked it out but when i got sick of running out of clamps i got myself an old strap of pinch weld and cut it into 1 inch pieces, this made life some much more easyer,, give it a try, you want turn back.
cheers gong
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Fixing my brothers UC hatch
Started by
_dirtbag_
, Dec 30 2009 01:19 PM
1690 replies to this topic
#1302
_eh-buddy_
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Posted 05 August 2010 - 09:46 AM
a bit of pvc pipe works great too or garden hose and pegs
#1303
_dirtbag_
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Posted 05 August 2010 - 04:43 PM
Thanks for the tip guys. I did the pinchweld trick and it was a lot easier, so thanks for that : )
Steering arms from Harrop arrived today. As did the number rear number plate light. Thanks again Vinny.
Unfortunately this car being a UC meant that the new panels my brother bought for the rear side areas are too tall, as the UC has a higher floor. I'll have to unpick the vinyl and cut them down. Bummer.
The moulded carpet is another thing that isn't quite right for this car. Those rear shock support thingys that we were talking about earlier that aren't on this car might need to go on this car, so these bits of carpet will fit properly.
Can someone with a hatch please give me the dimensions of those supports? Thanks.
I've got the roof lining pretty much all glues now. I am definitely not a trimmer. I'll need to steam this a bit, but it's better than the old one.
I also glues this piece of carpet in the back. I assumed it was meant to go the other way around, with the slot going to the top, but it just wouldn't sit right at looked awful, so it's in this way instead : )
I've also got the left door nearly ready for the new vinyl top to go on, but ran out of day.
I took one of the new front seats and the old rear seat to the trimmer so he can match the rear seat to the new front seats. Should look awesome.
Tomorrow I'll get some wood and make the floor piece to go in the hatch area, and I'll also get some steel so I can mount the new front seats.
It'll be nice to be able to actually sit in the car at last.
Steering arms from Harrop arrived today. As did the number rear number plate light. Thanks again Vinny.
Unfortunately this car being a UC meant that the new panels my brother bought for the rear side areas are too tall, as the UC has a higher floor. I'll have to unpick the vinyl and cut them down. Bummer.
The moulded carpet is another thing that isn't quite right for this car. Those rear shock support thingys that we were talking about earlier that aren't on this car might need to go on this car, so these bits of carpet will fit properly.
Can someone with a hatch please give me the dimensions of those supports? Thanks.
I've got the roof lining pretty much all glues now. I am definitely not a trimmer. I'll need to steam this a bit, but it's better than the old one.
I also glues this piece of carpet in the back. I assumed it was meant to go the other way around, with the slot going to the top, but it just wouldn't sit right at looked awful, so it's in this way instead : )
I've also got the left door nearly ready for the new vinyl top to go on, but ran out of day.
I took one of the new front seats and the old rear seat to the trimmer so he can match the rear seat to the new front seats. Should look awesome.
Tomorrow I'll get some wood and make the floor piece to go in the hatch area, and I'll also get some steel so I can mount the new front seats.
It'll be nice to be able to actually sit in the car at last.
#1304
myss427
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Posted 05 August 2010 - 05:00 PM
The roof lining looks like it needs a tad more stretching to get it tight, but steaming might shrink it enough to achieve the same outcome.
Also you might need to weld tuns stops onto the steering arms to stop the calipers fowling, had to with mine.
Also you might need to weld tuns stops onto the steering arms to stop the calipers fowling, had to with mine.
#1305
_Brad1979UC_
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Posted 05 August 2010 - 05:15 PM
Ooo nice trim, 
Love the pinchweld trick!! Lucky, i almost threw my old pinchweld out last week!
Love the pinchweld trick!! Lucky, i almost threw my old pinchweld out last week!
#1306
_dirtbag_
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Posted 05 August 2010 - 05:27 PM
The roof lining looks like it needs a tad more stretching to get it tight, but steaming might shrink it enough to achieve the same outcome.
Also you might need to weld tuns stops onto the steering arms to stop the calipers fowling, had to with mine.
Yeah, well as a trimmer I make a pretty good fabricator : )
It was pretty hard to even get it that smooth. If I had someone else here helping it might have been easier, didn't, so that's the best I could do.
Another reason why I wanted to be working on the camaro this week..........
#1307
_Kush_
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Posted 05 August 2010 - 07:13 PM
If nobody gives you the dimensions for the shock support bracey things by tomorrow arv, I'll measure mine up for you. I'm not going outside now though..... The possums are out and they get angry and bitey
If nobody gives you the dimensions for the shock support bracey things by tomorrow arv, I'll measure mine up for you. I'm not going outside now though..... The possums are out and they get angry and bitey
If nobody gives you the dimensions for the shock support bracey things by tomorrow arv, I'll measure mine up for you. I'm not going outside now though..... The possums are out and they get angry and bitey
#1309
mitchg
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Posted 06 August 2010 - 08:46 PM
Gonna be at Toranafest?
#1310
_dirtbag_
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Posted 06 August 2010 - 08:49 PM
Thanks Kush. Can I give you a bell in the morning?
Hi Mitch. My brother wants to have the car there, but there's still a heap to do. Maybe everyone on this forum can come over one weekend for a working bee???? hahaha.
Hi Mitch. My brother wants to have the car there, but there's still a heap to do. Maybe everyone on this forum can come over one weekend for a working bee???? hahaha.
#1311
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 06 August 2010 - 08:52 PM
You know the offers there Tim....Cruiza said a few days early but im keen to come a week before.....
Im fairly handy on the spanners
Cheers.
Im fairly handy on the spanners
Cheers.
#1312
_dirtbag_
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Posted 06 August 2010 - 08:58 PM
Yeah, that might be on the cards bomber. I'd really like to get it sorted before a week before the show though, just to allow for problems, but I think I'll probably take you up on that : )
I wont even charge you too much for helping hahaha : )
I wont even charge you too much for helping hahaha : )
#1313
mitchg
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The guy with the Torailer
- Name:Mitch
- Location:Ingleburn, NSW
- Car:Was a '77 LX V6 Torana + Torailer now VX SS
- Joined: 19-May 07
Posted 06 August 2010 - 09:11 PM
Im a bit far away being in cold and depressing Sydney, but if you wanna pay for a ticket/fuel id be more than happy to come to sunny QLD! I'm a great supervisor and am good for pub/parts runs!
#1314
_Kush_
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Posted 06 August 2010 - 09:26 PM
Yeah mate, I'll be at work though but it's ok. If I don't pick up straight away call again. Sometimes I can't hear my phone over the noise. Grinders and welders and cranes and so forth.
Edited by Kush, 06 August 2010 - 09:29 PM.
#1315
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 06 August 2010 - 10:23 PM
Hehehehe by the time im done i will have convinced Tim the extractors he made for it are no good and we need to make up a cast steel but weld manifold to mount two T30 turbo's in there somewhere.....Or that the motor would be better in my boat 
Cheers.
Cheers.
#1316
_The Baron_
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Posted 07 August 2010 - 05:36 PM
Steering arms from Harrop arrived today. As did the number rear number plate light. Thanks again Vinny.
Notice how the Harrop ones have no travel limit tabs near the tie rod end. Compare it to the original and you will see what I mean. I expect this will allow a tighter turning circle but you may have wheel fouling noises too.
Mind you......better than bump steer!!
Notice how the Harrop ones have no travel limit tabs near the tie rod end. Compare it to the original and you will see what I mean. I expect this will allow a tighter turning circle but you may have wheel fouling noises too.
Mind you......better than bump steer!!
Edited by The Baron, 07 August 2010 - 05:39 PM.
#1317
_Kush_
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Posted 07 August 2010 - 08:47 PM
What are those harrop ones worth?? I'm interested in tight turning circles
#1318
_sjohnst7_
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Posted 07 August 2010 - 10:04 PM
I remember a while ago being asked where the drop tank came from. It is from RipItUp.
It wasn't cheap, but is nicely made, has whatever fittings you want, has a nice filler cap and is baffled. It's very shiny too!
I can't remember the web address, sorry.
Harrop steering arms were somewhere around $350. (www.harrop.com.au)
It wasn't cheap, but is nicely made, has whatever fittings you want, has a nice filler cap and is baffled. It's very shiny too!
I can't remember the web address, sorry.
Harrop steering arms were somewhere around $350. (www.harrop.com.au)
#1319
MRLXSS
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Posted 07 August 2010 - 10:06 PM
Give the steering arms a lick of paint.... I left mine thinking they'd be ok but the surface rust came through the paint! Mine are coming out in the next few weeks and i'll make them look sexy again!
#1320
_lxss5l_
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Posted 07 August 2010 - 11:13 PM
(Dirt Bag:said. Unfortunately this car being a UC meant that the new panels my brother bought for the rear side areas are too tall, as the UC has a higher floor.)
That reminds me when a guy I bourt parts of was trying to sell me some recoverd uc ones both of us didn't realise ether untill he put one up against mine. PS I like those new steering arms
I just got some to
That reminds me when a guy I bourt parts of was trying to sell me some recoverd uc ones both of us didn't realise ether untill he put one up against mine. PS I like those new steering arms
I just got some to
#1321
LXCHEV
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Lotsa Posts!
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Posted 10 August 2010 - 02:21 PM
dirtbag....
What an epic build this thread has covered! I only just discovered this thread recently (the title was a bit mis-leading, and I didn't realise what I'd been missing out on, HAHA).
But now that I've just spent the last week or two reading every bloody page, I'm finally up to date... and damn my eyes hurt
This car is a real credit to you - the workmanship and custom modifications is a real inspiration, and the humourous comments have been very entertaining along the way. I really like the way it's all turned out. I was very happy to see the flares going on, and with the wheel and colour combo it officially looks nuts! (But BLACK would have been nice) LOL. The driveline choice is also full of awesomeness.
Top work! Cheers for sharing the build-up with us all. As for the title of this thread - I think it's fixed now.
What an epic build this thread has covered! I only just discovered this thread recently (the title was a bit mis-leading, and I didn't realise what I'd been missing out on, HAHA).
But now that I've just spent the last week or two reading every bloody page, I'm finally up to date... and damn my eyes hurt
This car is a real credit to you - the workmanship and custom modifications is a real inspiration, and the humourous comments have been very entertaining along the way. I really like the way it's all turned out. I was very happy to see the flares going on, and with the wheel and colour combo it officially looks nuts! (But BLACK would have been nice) LOL. The driveline choice is also full of awesomeness.
Top work! Cheers for sharing the build-up with us all. As for the title of this thread - I think it's fixed now.
#1322
axistr
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Posted 10 August 2010 - 08:01 PM
G'day dirtbag, sorry I only just come across this thread, wow it brings back so many memories of when I restored "HOLDON" four years ago. Fantastic job mate well done.
Hope I can be of some help in the steering department. If your using HQ stubs you need to use A9X steering arms to minimise bump steer as you have done purchasing Harop arms. As Andy has stated if your running UC front end use UC steering arms, LX use LX arms etc. My racks basically sit in the same position as the factory but around 5-8mm forward due to the larger diameter of the power steering cylinder. The main reason the power steering conversion reduces bumpsteer and gives better handling it due to the power steering hydraulic cylinder, it's like having a shock absorber built in, or like a steering damper on a four wheel drive, remove it off a four wheel drive and see how much difference it makes. Then there is the added bonus of much quicker ratio and to top it off you can now steer it with one hand, and one hand to do what you want with ?.
I run UC arms on my hatch to clear the brakes calipers a bit better and the steering tie rod bars more level due to my ride height, but I could have used the LX steering arms with basically the same result, I was just trying different setup to see if any of the changes were for the better. I also carried out a conversion on a standard LX and even with 2 degrees negitive caster the car steered like a gem and no bump steer.
And last of all I recomend not to weld bits on the end of your steering arms stops, it is most important that on full lock there is clearance between the arm and lower control arm, as I have designed the system to bottom out on full lock in the internal parts of the power steering rack. It is so easy to add excessive load on the steering components on full lock and not notice it using one hand up top on the tiller and bending parts, loading up bushes until they start spliting, or knocking out your wheel alignment. All modern cars with power steering have this design feature so make sure you have clearance on full lock under power assistance, it only needs a bees dick but they must have clearance.
Hope this helps.
Lenny.
Hope I can be of some help in the steering department. If your using HQ stubs you need to use A9X steering arms to minimise bump steer as you have done purchasing Harop arms. As Andy has stated if your running UC front end use UC steering arms, LX use LX arms etc. My racks basically sit in the same position as the factory but around 5-8mm forward due to the larger diameter of the power steering cylinder. The main reason the power steering conversion reduces bumpsteer and gives better handling it due to the power steering hydraulic cylinder, it's like having a shock absorber built in, or like a steering damper on a four wheel drive, remove it off a four wheel drive and see how much difference it makes. Then there is the added bonus of much quicker ratio and to top it off you can now steer it with one hand, and one hand to do what you want with ?.
I run UC arms on my hatch to clear the brakes calipers a bit better and the steering tie rod bars more level due to my ride height, but I could have used the LX steering arms with basically the same result, I was just trying different setup to see if any of the changes were for the better. I also carried out a conversion on a standard LX and even with 2 degrees negitive caster the car steered like a gem and no bump steer.
And last of all I recomend not to weld bits on the end of your steering arms stops, it is most important that on full lock there is clearance between the arm and lower control arm, as I have designed the system to bottom out on full lock in the internal parts of the power steering rack. It is so easy to add excessive load on the steering components on full lock and not notice it using one hand up top on the tiller and bending parts, loading up bushes until they start spliting, or knocking out your wheel alignment. All modern cars with power steering have this design feature so make sure you have clearance on full lock under power assistance, it only needs a bees dick but they must have clearance.
Hope this helps.
Lenny.
#1323
_cruiza_
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Posted 11 August 2010 - 09:30 PM
Thanks for posting axistr is was getting kinda boring repeating myself.
hey dirbag just an idea for the the car a nice chevy badge on the grill would really set the car off hehehe
hey dirbag just an idea for the the car a nice chevy badge on the grill would really set the car off hehehe
#1324
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 11 August 2010 - 09:39 PM
If it had painted bumpers i would recommend a COMMODORE badge on the boot, but it doesnt, so your safe
Edited by Bomber Watson, 11 August 2010 - 09:42 PM.
#1325
_dirtbag_
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Posted 12 August 2010 - 01:14 AM
I'm running a very rare badge on the grill. It's totally invisible, which makes it very hard to clean : ) Stupid badges!!!
I made up some mounts for the new seats. They're 50x5mm flat steel, so I don't think they'll fall out in a hurry.
I've made the mounts bolt in the original seat mounts in the floor, then the new seats bolt to the new mounts. The seats have 3 rows of holes in the mounting tabs, so the seat height can be changed if needed.
I also made a new floor for the hatch area, and cut a hole in each end with a spade bit to act as a finger pull to remove the panel.
Starting to look a bit neater.
First trial fit of the moulded carpet.
There was a lot of heating done around the tunnel, as I had to make a much larger tunnel for the t56. Once I was happy enough with how the carpet was going to sit on the tunnel, I took it all out and fitted the underlay.
The carpet is pulled to its limit over the new tunnel, so I couldn't use underlay on it, but it went everywhere else.
I pulled all the old trim clips out of the old rear trims and fitted them to the new ones so I could stick one in and have a look. Very pretty : )
Then I was able to mount the carpet and chuck a seat in there. I only have one seat here at the moment as the other one is at the trimmers so he can trim the rear seat to suit. He's also going to mount a gearstick and handbrake boot to the carpet once it's all done. He's a good trimmer, does most of our hot rods around here, so looking forward to seeing the rear seat trimmed. His name is Chris Bakker.
Then I got to mess it all up again with the remote locking kit. Being a 2 door the stupid loom isn't long enough to reach the latch, so I'll lenghthen it, fit the solenoid and then I can put the new door card on. Yay!
I also fitted up the grill and headlight surrounds. It's starting to resemble a car at last.
I made up some mounts for the new seats. They're 50x5mm flat steel, so I don't think they'll fall out in a hurry.
I've made the mounts bolt in the original seat mounts in the floor, then the new seats bolt to the new mounts. The seats have 3 rows of holes in the mounting tabs, so the seat height can be changed if needed.
I also made a new floor for the hatch area, and cut a hole in each end with a spade bit to act as a finger pull to remove the panel.
Starting to look a bit neater.
First trial fit of the moulded carpet.
There was a lot of heating done around the tunnel, as I had to make a much larger tunnel for the t56. Once I was happy enough with how the carpet was going to sit on the tunnel, I took it all out and fitted the underlay.
The carpet is pulled to its limit over the new tunnel, so I couldn't use underlay on it, but it went everywhere else.
I pulled all the old trim clips out of the old rear trims and fitted them to the new ones so I could stick one in and have a look. Very pretty : )
Then I was able to mount the carpet and chuck a seat in there. I only have one seat here at the moment as the other one is at the trimmers so he can trim the rear seat to suit. He's also going to mount a gearstick and handbrake boot to the carpet once it's all done. He's a good trimmer, does most of our hot rods around here, so looking forward to seeing the rear seat trimmed. His name is Chris Bakker.
Then I got to mess it all up again with the remote locking kit. Being a 2 door the stupid loom isn't long enough to reach the latch, so I'll lenghthen it, fit the solenoid and then I can put the new door card on. Yay!
I also fitted up the grill and headlight surrounds. It's starting to resemble a car at last.
Edited by dirtbag, 12 August 2010 - 01:17 AM.
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