1690 replies to this topic

[axistr]

G'day fellows, just reading back through my post and it looks like I have it in for Harrop, dont get me wrong Harrop do some very good work I was just very suprised to see something like this in a steering component.

Tim looking back a few pages where you had clearance issues with the rack to crossmember, you may have a slight twist in the K-frame, I use a UC K-frame as a jig and do all the final welding of the rack bracket on it to make sure they all will fit.
The back of the rotary valve will lightly rest up against the crossmember(normal), if you push the rack into place by hand and lightly tighten the two rack mount bolts there should be no load on any part of the rack other wise you will need to fit washers behind the rack cradle mount to crossmember as you said in your post. I have also allowed the bar between the mount cylinders to rest against the crossmember, if it means you take 1 or 2mm off the aluminium housing around the back where the mount is (square section) that is ok as I sometimes do this on final fit up test before I send them out. I noticed in one of your photos that this may be the case.

When I did bump steer curves with the rack conversion for my hatch I had less toe in/toe out through out the full travel than the original torana rack, and the toe out on turns was better, bugger all but still better. Using different arms didn't make that much difference to my suprise, but using any other arms but the correct A9x/Harrop arms on a HQ stubs caused major bumpsteer problems.

keeping the rack close as you can backward to the crossmember is perfered, when I designed the system I buggered around for weeks raising the rack up and down to get the best intersecting angles between the inner upper and lower control arm pivots, all which made a difference but the angle of the arm in relation to the inner lower control arm and the lower ball balljoint is where the most difference was made and improvement over the standard torana rack and is why I believe this rack conversion handles better than the factory setup.

It is also important to set the car up so the ride height of the vehicle allows the tie rod bars to be level, a straight line between the left and right tie rod ends and rack centre line will give the best handling.

Last of all the steering arms that I ream for the kits are not because they are Subaru, they are not it is an automotive tapper and in 50 % of cases you could just bolt them straight on they will fit the standard torana steering arms. I like to set the tie rod end just a tad lower in the hole and check that the original hole hasn't elongated with wear or damaged in any way, or check to make sure the hole isn't on an angle (LoL).

Hope I haven't confused you and may help others.

[rodomo]

HARROP............Good enough for Brock?.............Good enough for me!

[lxsstorana]

Looking great as always and getting very close to finishing.

Your brother owes you big time!

Mick.

P.S. Just saw the concrete photo's and that's what I call a real man's slab.

Edited by lxsstorana, 17 August 2010 - 07:44 PM.

[LXCHEV]

OH MY GOD, look at the size of that slab!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[MRLXSS]

WOW!!!

[Stinga]

double Awesome... that dog makes me laugh every time i see it!!

[MRLXSS]

When the Dirtbag Wonderland of Dreams is complete, can i come visit? It'll be like a theme park!

[orangeLJ]

I am in awe.

I think we have found the shed god.

[76lxhatch]

The Light swtiches look like a universal thing, and you can cut the ends off to make them any length you want. I got something similar in an alarm kit.

You can buy them individually from Dick Smith here