Do those bumpers have chrome paint on them, or are they chromed?
Looks fantastic
Yeah Spill zei beanz Tim what finish is that on the bars?
1 votes
Fixing my brothers UC hatch
Started by
_dirtbag_
, Dec 30 2009 01:19 PM
1690 replies to this topic
#1451
_AD_75_
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Posted 07 September 2010 - 10:32 PM
Yeah Spill zei beanz Tim what finish is that on the bars?
#1452
_dirtbag_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 07:41 AM
I've been getting lots of little invisible jobs done lately, trying to get everything sorted for RWC. Feels like nothing gets achieved, but it is getting there now.
One thing I had to do was fit the new windscreen squirters.
Here's the bits and pieces I'm using. I ended up painting the washers and T piece black so they weren't so obvious when looking through the plenum vent.
Here it is fitted to the underside of the cowl panel.
This is all you'll see from the outside.
I ran the tube from the squirter bottle up through the A pillar and into the plenum chamber, so it wouldn't be visible anywhere.
I then hooked it up and fitted the cowl panel. I think it looks pretty good. No one will really even notice them, as they don't stand out anywhere near as much in real life as they do in this pic with the flash highlighting them. Plus it means there are no hoses or fittings in the engine bay now.
The next thing I had to sort out was the central locking. I'd already fitted the drivers door solenoid, but it didn't have enough guts to unlock or lock the door. Great. All I could do was pull the latch out again and see if I could loosen in up a bit.
This is the drivers door latch before I cleaned it. After looking at it for a bit I found this little spring. I took the spring out and it made the lock move a lot easier. It was still a bit tight though so a good clean out of all the gunk had it moving freely.
With the drivers door reassembled, the central locking works perfectly, so I fitted the solenoid into the passengers door too and gave it another test. It works really well now. I'm very happy with it, considering I was a bit worried about how I was going to get it working.
I then fitted the trim and handles, door stop rubber, door seal and flexi conduit for the solenoid wiring.
I also fitted the bonnet side rubbers and bonnet stop rubbers.
When I took the car apart one of the clips that holds the door handle to the rod inside the door was broken. I think those clips are a pain so I ended up just drilling a hole in the top of each door handle rod and used an R clip to secure it to the handle.
Another thing needed for RWC is rubber pedal pads, so I bought one for the clutch. It's not a perfect match but it's as close as I could get around here. It's a bit rich that Mal Wood doesn't supply one with the pedal assembly. Oh well.
I also fitted the new firewall rubber.
Not that you can really see anything in this pic, but I also fitted the passengers front seatbelt. Was fun finding the holes after gluing the vinyl on everything : )
I bought a couple of tubes of loctite instant glue to put the hatch seal on, but 2 tubes wasn't enough, and I ran out with about 2 feet to go. Oh well, I'll just get some more today.
Well that's all that's really worth looking at, not that there was anything good to look at in this lot anyway : )
There's still a decent sized list of jobs to do, but I'm going to try my hardest to get the RWC this week. I'll have to raise the car a bit which is a pain but I've found some springs I can borrow, so that's cool.
Fingers crossed!!!!!
One thing I had to do was fit the new windscreen squirters.
Here's the bits and pieces I'm using. I ended up painting the washers and T piece black so they weren't so obvious when looking through the plenum vent.
Here it is fitted to the underside of the cowl panel.
This is all you'll see from the outside.
I ran the tube from the squirter bottle up through the A pillar and into the plenum chamber, so it wouldn't be visible anywhere.
I then hooked it up and fitted the cowl panel. I think it looks pretty good. No one will really even notice them, as they don't stand out anywhere near as much in real life as they do in this pic with the flash highlighting them. Plus it means there are no hoses or fittings in the engine bay now.
The next thing I had to sort out was the central locking. I'd already fitted the drivers door solenoid, but it didn't have enough guts to unlock or lock the door. Great. All I could do was pull the latch out again and see if I could loosen in up a bit.
This is the drivers door latch before I cleaned it. After looking at it for a bit I found this little spring. I took the spring out and it made the lock move a lot easier. It was still a bit tight though so a good clean out of all the gunk had it moving freely.
With the drivers door reassembled, the central locking works perfectly, so I fitted the solenoid into the passengers door too and gave it another test. It works really well now. I'm very happy with it, considering I was a bit worried about how I was going to get it working.
I then fitted the trim and handles, door stop rubber, door seal and flexi conduit for the solenoid wiring.
I also fitted the bonnet side rubbers and bonnet stop rubbers.
When I took the car apart one of the clips that holds the door handle to the rod inside the door was broken. I think those clips are a pain so I ended up just drilling a hole in the top of each door handle rod and used an R clip to secure it to the handle.
Another thing needed for RWC is rubber pedal pads, so I bought one for the clutch. It's not a perfect match but it's as close as I could get around here. It's a bit rich that Mal Wood doesn't supply one with the pedal assembly. Oh well.
I also fitted the new firewall rubber.
Not that you can really see anything in this pic, but I also fitted the passengers front seatbelt. Was fun finding the holes after gluing the vinyl on everything : )
I bought a couple of tubes of loctite instant glue to put the hatch seal on, but 2 tubes wasn't enough, and I ran out with about 2 feet to go. Oh well, I'll just get some more today.
Well that's all that's really worth looking at, not that there was anything good to look at in this lot anyway : )
There's still a decent sized list of jobs to do, but I'm going to try my hardest to get the RWC this week. I'll have to raise the car a bit which is a pain but I've found some springs I can borrow, so that's cool.
Fingers crossed!!!!!
#1453
View GaragePosted 08 September 2010 - 08:34 AM
With the locks, just make sure that they don't fall down by themselves after you remove the spring - after being locked out once or twice I reinstalled the springs after weakening them with a bit of heat, gives just enough to stop any knocks from accidentally locking them but still soft enough for the solenoids to move.
Looking great, getting very close!
Looking great, getting very close!
#1454
Statler
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 08:45 AM
Just curious... but if you were going to hide the washer hoses..... & you have filled all the unwanted holes in the engine bay for a smooth look.... why didn't you fill in the washer nozzle holes in the plenum cover?
#1455
_dirtbag_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 09:21 AM
I know what you're saying 76lx, and that was something I was wary of, but the solenoid would have to come undone for the lock to fall down, so it should be fine. (crosses fingers)
As for the holes in the plenum, well, no ones perfect : )
As for the holes in the plenum, well, no ones perfect : )
#1456
meanmachine72
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 10:56 AM
hey tim...thats a cool spanner ring ya got..make it your self???
#1457
_Quagmire_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 10:57 AM
you need to detail your pedal rubbers tim
i can see bog dust on em
one blemesh on a otherwise PERFECT rebuild
i can see bog dust on em
one blemesh on a otherwise PERFECT rebuild
#1458
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 11:06 AM
I was thinking of not having any locks at all if I can get my head around the idea of leaving the car unlocked.
The way I see it if you lock the car then some arsehole will smash the window or do some other damage to get into the car. Then the car alarm will go off and they will probably go away leaving you will the damage bill.
If the car is left unlocked then the alarm will go off and there should not be any damage. I have had my Forester broken into twice. The first time they smashed the lock and damaged the door, the quote was $700 to repair. The second time they smashed the passenger window which cost $300 from the wreckers.
The way I see it if you lock the car then some arsehole will smash the window or do some other damage to get into the car. Then the car alarm will go off and they will probably go away leaving you will the damage bill.
If the car is left unlocked then the alarm will go off and there should not be any damage. I have had my Forester broken into twice. The first time they smashed the lock and damaged the door, the quote was $700 to repair. The second time they smashed the passenger window which cost $300 from the wreckers.
#1459
_j7723_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 11:27 AM
mate what a job looks grate just spent the last 2 days going throw the hole lot should now to some work but thank you
#1460
orangeLJ
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 12:15 PM
I was thinking of not having any locks at all if I can get my head around the idea of leaving the car unlocked.
The way I see it if you lock the car then some arsehole will smash the window or do some other damage to get into the car. Then the car alarm will go off and they will probably go away leaving you will the damage bill.
If the car is left unlocked then the alarm will go off and there should not be any damage. I have had my Forester broken into twice. The first time they smashed the lock and damaged the door, the quote was $700 to repair. The second time they smashed the passenger window which cost $300 from the wreckers.
Thats really not such a bad idea.
I very very rarely park my torana anywhere I cant see it, and when I do, im always in earshot of the car alarm.
Plus the fact there isnt a whole lot they can steal in the amount of time it would take me to get from where I am to the car.
And how many people do you see actually walking along lifting handles on cars like ours! if they are going to steal it, its going to be from your shed and locks do bugger all then!
#1461
_sjohnst7_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 12:17 PM
Yeah, the bumpers are currently painted a chrome-ish colour. I would like to get them re-chromed in the very near future (once it is in Canberra probably). Any recommendations for good chroming companies?
#1462
_Quagmire_
_Quagmire_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 12:42 PM
you could just wait and get the repro ones that come out soon
#1463
_AD_75_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 01:42 PM
Yeah, the bumpers are currently painted a chrome-ish colour. I would like to get them re-chromed in the very near future (once it is in Canberra probably). Any recommendations for good chroming companies?
Cant help ya with a chrome company local to you but honestly even though i'm a big fan of chromed LH/X bars they look good as is...coulda been worse and color coded them the same as the rest of the car.
#1464
_sjohnst7_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 02:01 PM
Yeah, yuo're right Aidrian. I wouldn't want to have done that to it! 
#1465
_Quagmire_
_Quagmire_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 02:21 PM
ha ha so it's a honda crx atm 
#1466
_cazarak_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 02:27 PM
what product did you use to fill the gaps on the bonnet between the frame and the skin.
I see in the 59 pages a mention of sikaflex but cant find if thats correct or not,
Thanks
I see in the 59 pages a mention of sikaflex but cant find if thats correct or not,
Thanks
#1467
_dirtbag_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 04:50 PM
you could just wait and get the repro ones that come out soon
We could have, but I wanted to have all the mounting bolts and jacking points filled anyway, so they'd need rechroming anyway.
It's a pity to have them painted in House of Kolor Kosmic Krome, but there are absolutely no good chrome platers around here, so hopefully Mr Brother will have more luck in canberra.
As for the bonnet goo, yes it is sikaflex adhesive, but I only used that as I couldn't get any MS sealer at the time. MS is a much better product for doing things like that as it wont pull on the outer skin like sikaflex can.
Oh, sorry Quagmire, yes it is a CRX at the moment : )
If all CRXs looked like this I'd have one hahaha
#1468
_cazarak_
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 06:53 PM
thanks for that,
I was wondering if the sikaflex would pull on the outer skin once it dried. Iv'e been looking at a bonnet for a ute here thinking of how to tidy underneath up, ill give it a go, cheers
BTW the write up and pics of this build are brilliant, i love your attention to detail, great build
I was wondering if the sikaflex would pull on the outer skin once it dried. Iv'e been looking at a bonnet for a ute here thinking of how to tidy underneath up, ill give it a go, cheers
BTW the write up and pics of this build are brilliant, i love your attention to detail, great build
#1469
_Zach_
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Posted 10 September 2010 - 02:46 AM
59 pages later and I am finished reading, this thread has given me a few good little details about customisation, top effort on the build.
My brother (olj_08) has mentioned you before (I think when you got the drains), if only I had noticed the build thread before this week.
My brother (olj_08) has mentioned you before (I think when you got the drains), if only I had noticed the build thread before this week.
#1470
_lxss5l_
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Posted 10 September 2010 - 11:37 AM
Man the car is just
!!! Incredible !!! and then you open the bonnet
. I got excited when I saw the pics of it being driven out the shed,I could only imagine how stoked you and your bro must be right now.Bumer you gota change the springs again just for the rw l'd love to see the look on the guys faces when you're getting the road wearthy and what thay say about it, thay'll be blown away.
!!! Incredible !!! and then you open the bonnet
. I got excited when I saw the pics of it being driven out the shed,I could only imagine how stoked you and your bro must be right now.Bumer you gota change the springs again just for the rw l'd love to see the look on the guys faces when you're getting the road wearthy and what thay say about it, thay'll be blown away.
#1471
_jabba_
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Posted 10 September 2010 - 04:51 PM
With the locks, just make sure that they don't fall down by themselves after you remove the spring - after being locked out once or twice I reinstalled the springs after weakening them with a bit of heat, gives just enough to stop any knocks from accidentally locking them but still soft enough for the solenoids to move.
Looking great, getting very close!
I had this exact problem and was going to mention that
. I removed the springs on my HQ rear door locks so the solenoid could move the lock, and after opening and closing the back door 2-3 times the lock would fall down a tiny bit and lock it. It didnt have to fall much to cause a problem.
Edited by jabba, 10 September 2010 - 04:55 PM.
#1472
_dirtbag_
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Posted 10 September 2010 - 06:01 PM
Well I've got the A/C all gassed up, the power steering hoses made and fitted, the sun visors and rear view mirrors fitted, all the rear trim bits fitted, oh, and did I mention
IT NOW HAS A ROADWORTHY CERTIFICATE!!!!!! YAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IT NOW HAS A ROADWORTHY CERTIFICATE!!!!!! YAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#1473
GML-31
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Posted 10 September 2010 - 06:21 PM
Great news
#1474
Collo
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Posted 10 September 2010 - 06:21 PM
Good stuff mate, it's a credit to you.
#1475
its Paul
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Posted 10 September 2010 - 06:38 PM
Good to see you�ve come over to the dark side.......PAINTED BUMPERS.......
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