After a year and a bit of body and prep work, I finally sprayed the body of my hatch. It is a solid colour and I am going to clear coat it. I was wondering about others thoughts about mixing clear with colour. I have never painted clear before so would be keen for some info on which way to go.
Cheers Dan.
Also after painting, how long to wait for sanding in between coats.
colour in clear coat?
Started by
_hatch76_
, Jan 15 2010 02:19 PM
15 replies to this topic
#2
LXM21
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Posted 15 January 2010 - 03:52 PM
After a year and a bit of body and prep work, I finally sprayed the body of my hatch. It is a solid colour and I am going to clear coat it. I was wondering about others thoughts about mixing clear with colour. I have never painted clear before so would be keen for some info on which way to go.
Cheers Dan.
Also after painting, how long to wait for sanding in between coats.
Generally clear on goes on metallics. there was some posts on here some time ago about mixing clears with top coats, especially around door jambs, there was some good info in it/ Do a search, should come up with it.
#3
_showoff_
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Posted 15 January 2010 - 03:57 PM
im an amature... so i maybe wrong.
do all your prep work so its mickey mouse
800 grit sand it.
clean it up.
Base coat it, let flash off for 30mins,
then clear coat it.
wait 3 days then 2000 grit it.
Then like say autoglym body shop range, polish for removing 2000 grit sanding marks.
Then polish with normal polish.
If you have already let it dry, i think you have too 800 grit it again lightly
repaint and then clear after the 30min flash off.
Im not 100% sure as i painted after the 30min flash off and it come out very nice.
sorry if any of the above is wrong
ahhhh i missed the solid part. sorry ive only painted with metalic which you need too clear it before it dryes......
i think its 3 days you have too wait.
do all your prep work so its mickey mouse
800 grit sand it.
clean it up.
Base coat it, let flash off for 30mins,
then clear coat it.
wait 3 days then 2000 grit it.
Then like say autoglym body shop range, polish for removing 2000 grit sanding marks.
Then polish with normal polish.
If you have already let it dry, i think you have too 800 grit it again lightly
repaint and then clear after the 30min flash off.
Im not 100% sure as i painted after the 30min flash off and it come out very nice.
sorry if any of the above is wrong
ahhhh i missed the solid part. sorry ive only painted with metalic which you need too clear it before it dryes......
i think its 3 days you have too wait.
#4
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Posted 15 January 2010 - 04:50 PM
We applied coats of clear over the top of the solid, acrylic colour,(black) and it worked very well. Some clear was also mixed into the pot on the last coat of the colour, it "deepens" the paint and is a little trick my mate showed me. The clear coats were not sanded and buffed for over a month after being applied.
#5
_hatch76_
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Posted 15 January 2010 - 06:16 PM
Done a search and found some info on clear and colour. The main reason I was clearing is because it's cheaper than the colour, n ot that I'm a tight ass. Would colour in the last couple of clear coats be ok insted of the whole lot or is it best to do the lot with colour in.
Thanks for the info. Dan.
Thanks for the info. Dan.
#6
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Posted 16 January 2010 - 12:58 AM
Hi Daniel. I assume you're talking about acrylic? As long as you have good coverage you can then get your build with clear, as like you said it is cheaper. I've painted a few cars in solid colours with clear over the top and it isn't a huge difference in my opinion. There is a huge difference from 2k (2 pac solid, no clear) to 2 pac clear over base, but I've never seen the benefits with acrylic. If you are going to use clear to save money, just make sure the colour has covered everything evenly, then go nuts with the clear.
I painted a black HZ years ago in acrylic and put heaps of clear over the top. It looked awesome, but scratches in clear are white. This means if the car had dust on it, and someone brushed against it, there would be lots of tiny white scratches against the black colour. It was a nightmare. Just something else to consider.
Make sure you lay heaps of paint on so it can be blocked back perfectly smooth. I usually sand the paint either the next day or the day after that, as it's a bit easier to sand. You can buff it after a week, but there is a good chance it will go dull after a couple of weeks. Best to leave it a month. Do not wax it under any circumstances for at least a month. It will trap solvents and the paint will go dull very quickly requiring more buffing and polishing. Yuck : )
Oh, and unless the paint goes on like sandpaper, there's no need to sand between coats. It all gets sanded at the end anyway. Don't waste the time and effort.
Also, if you're putting blackouts on the car, the clear will eliminate the "step" where the black sits on top of the colour.
I painted a black HZ years ago in acrylic and put heaps of clear over the top. It looked awesome, but scratches in clear are white. This means if the car had dust on it, and someone brushed against it, there would be lots of tiny white scratches against the black colour. It was a nightmare. Just something else to consider.
Make sure you lay heaps of paint on so it can be blocked back perfectly smooth. I usually sand the paint either the next day or the day after that, as it's a bit easier to sand. You can buff it after a week, but there is a good chance it will go dull after a couple of weeks. Best to leave it a month. Do not wax it under any circumstances for at least a month. It will trap solvents and the paint will go dull very quickly requiring more buffing and polishing. Yuck : )
Oh, and unless the paint goes on like sandpaper, there's no need to sand between coats. It all gets sanded at the end anyway. Don't waste the time and effort.
Also, if you're putting blackouts on the car, the clear will eliminate the "step" where the black sits on top of the colour.
#7
_hatch76_
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Posted 16 January 2010 - 07:57 AM
Thanks for the info Dirtbag. Thats interesting about the clear on the black showing up scratches. Will keep that in mind when I do my blackouts and bonnet.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#8
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 16 January 2010 - 08:04 AM
50% colour to 50% clear in acrylic is supposed to stop shadows from the clear coat, and makes it look like you have an additional 4 or 5 coats of paint on (adds depth). Just what I did last time I cleared over a solid colour. Never tried 100% clear, but if you can put paint on evenly, can't see why you couldn't do 100% clear. Even if clear coat isn't even, you can block it flat.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 16 January 2010 - 08:04 AM.
#9
Heath
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Posted 16 January 2010 - 11:56 AM
Re: the 100% clear with acrylic. I've never done it either but a friend of mine was saying he painted a Gemini in bright yellow acrylic and it was a REALLY good body - so he wanted the paint to be show quality. He did the 50% clear on the last two coats I think, and then absolutely slammed 100% clear all over the car, particularly on all the edges etc, just so that he could buff it heaps and not be scared of rubbing through (I've never had an issue with rubbing through but I suppose if you want to polish it a lot and it last a long time it makes sense). He said the paintjob still looks awesome, years and years later and it gets thoroughly polished all the time haha
Another mate who's a panelbeater said that with 2k you don't want to put a whole lot of clear on, only a couple of coats and leave it at that, can't remember the exact reasoning but he convinced me that you don't treat it like you would with acrylic.
Cheers
Another mate who's a panelbeater said that with 2k you don't want to put a whole lot of clear on, only a couple of coats and leave it at that, can't remember the exact reasoning but he convinced me that you don't treat it like you would with acrylic.
Cheers
#10
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 16 January 2010 - 03:08 PM
To further Heaths comment....
2k clear you put on 2 coats for a HS, usually i only do 2 coats of MS as well but you can go to three with MS.
Do not put more than this on at once. If you for some reason need more paint, wait a few days block it then put more on.
Why??? Get some 2k clear and a sheet of that thin cardboard stuff kids make shit out of (forget the name of it). Spray two good coats of HS clear over it, then walk away, come back the next day it will have curled itself into a cylinder.
2k clear shrinks when it dries, if you have to much on the surface at any one time, it will crack very promptly.
Now back to the OP, Do not mix color with 2k clear.
If you are doing the car in acrylic, then either all, personally i would do two coats at 50/50 then put five to six coats of strait clear over it.
Cheers.
2k clear you put on 2 coats for a HS, usually i only do 2 coats of MS as well but you can go to three with MS.
Do not put more than this on at once. If you for some reason need more paint, wait a few days block it then put more on.
Why??? Get some 2k clear and a sheet of that thin cardboard stuff kids make shit out of (forget the name of it). Spray two good coats of HS clear over it, then walk away, come back the next day it will have curled itself into a cylinder.
2k clear shrinks when it dries, if you have to much on the surface at any one time, it will crack very promptly.
Now back to the OP, Do not mix color with 2k clear.
If you are doing the car in acrylic, then either all, personally i would do two coats at 50/50 then put five to six coats of strait clear over it.
Cheers.
#11
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Posted 16 January 2010 - 03:29 PM
What Bomber said 
Also, going back to the 2k thing. If you were going to do a car in 2 pac and a solid colour and wanted clear over the top, do it in clear over base instead of clearing the 2k colour. Cheaper and easier IMO.
Also, going back to the 2k thing. If you were going to do a car in 2 pac and a solid colour and wanted clear over the top, do it in clear over base instead of clearing the 2k colour. Cheaper and easier IMO.
#12
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 16 January 2010 - 07:03 PM
Agree with Dirtbags last comment. Spot on.
Unless its a work vehicle if you want a strait color dont f*ck around with poly 2k colors, yes they look good but COB 2k looks better.
Cheers.
Unless its a work vehicle if you want a strait color dont f*ck around with poly 2k colors, yes they look good but COB 2k looks better.
Cheers.
#13
Heath
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Posted 17 January 2010 - 12:00 PM
These acronyms are killing me man! COB? HS? MS?
#14
wot179
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Posted 17 January 2010 - 12:02 PM
COB is clear over basecoat,dunno about the rest.
#15
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 17 January 2010 - 12:29 PM
High solids, Medium solids.
MS is better for doing touch ups on a factory paint finish, HS is better for full resprays (1000000% sexyer)
MS is better for doing touch ups on a factory paint finish, HS is better for full resprays (1000000% sexyer)
#16
_hatch76_
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Posted 17 January 2010 - 12:53 PM
Thanks for the info lads. The car is in acrylic. Will hopefully finish it this wk so will post some pictures of project so far. cheers
so will do 2 coats of 50/50 then 4-5 of 100%
so will do 2 coats of 50/50 then 4-5 of 100%
Edited by hatch76, 17 January 2010 - 12:58 PM.
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