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My newer Monaro


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#151 _Leakey_

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 08:20 AM

Looking good Jabba.

You gotta be in front $$$ wise. What a find!

Now, where is that wreckers again?!

- Leakey

#152 _jabba_

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 08:33 AM

its starting to get expensive now, to get where I am atm it has cost...

$1000 - one rolling monaro, almost all chrome doors and side glass.
$600 - Current monaro shell.
$??? - paints and sand paper, i choose not to add that up :P.
$700ish - Rebuild the front end with new ball joints, tie rods and bushes.
$100 - Rust repair two doors.
$800 - Engine
$??? - rebuilt kit for engine, probably $800
$50 - Flexplate
$130 - distributor
$200 - gearbox
$220 - Front power window regs
$350 - parts car, inc GTS dash.
$40 - ARP bolts for the flexplate and torque convertor.
$250 - Front guards

Total = $4740, maybe i shouldnt have added that up :P. I guess its still worth more than what i've spent so i'm doing well!

#153 _Leakey_

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 08:38 AM

That's awesome matey.

Will be a great lookin' car.

#154 _jabba_

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 08:43 AM

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Edited by jabba, 25 November 2007 - 08:45 AM.


#155 _Leakey_

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 09:02 AM

Haha, in those pics the a pillars dissappear! Now that would be cool!

I've never done a full resto before, well, not on this scale,
but I really enjoy seeing the 'inside' of cars. Following my old SS
resto that LX5008 is currently doing too. Way cool.

What colour are you thinking of painting it?

- Leakey

#156 _jabba_

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Posted 26 November 2007 - 04:39 PM

Its going to be the blue on the firewall :), the factory green was to... green.

#157 _Leakey_

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Posted 26 November 2007 - 05:53 PM

Nice.

#158 _jabba_

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Posted 08 December 2007 - 10:15 PM

I have welded in the first floor rust repair, i ran out of por15 so its a really thin coat to keep the mosture at bay for now. The reason the paint looks really crap is it was dark and i brushed dirt into it, doh. Ill strip it all back and repaint when all the repairs are done.

Its amazing how much easyer welding is when you can see what your doing, my old welding helmet stopped auto switching but this new one is great, bigger lense too. Also put some more primer on the boot lid after welding the badge and spoiler holes up.

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Damien

Edited by jabba, 08 December 2007 - 10:25 PM.


#159 _jabba_

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Posted 09 December 2007 - 07:55 PM

I started welding in the next small repair, but as soon as i started cleaning up the welds pin holes popped up everywhere. I chopped all the pitted metal out and started trimming up the patch.

This is the first patch job that i ended up cutting out.
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Floor cut out, i had to cut off the seat bolt holes
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Bolt holes sitting in place
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Bolt holes welded in place, just need the welds ground back. I have to cut more of the rear floor pan out, i figured i might aswell get rid of all the pitted metal i can.
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The donor floor pan, i've drilled the spot welds out, i just need to seperate the front and rear pan.
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#160 _jabba_

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Posted 12 December 2007 - 08:35 PM

Well i managed to finally seperate the two floor pans and i've welded one of them in, i just need to weld up the spot weld holes and grind it all back :).

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Edited by jabba, 12 December 2007 - 08:37 PM.


#161 _TJ253_

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Posted 12 December 2007 - 08:49 PM

Coming along nice there keep up the good work!

#162 toryman76

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Posted 12 December 2007 - 08:53 PM

nice work jabba!! :clap: can i ask though, what are those bolt holes for you have welded in place? i cant work it out! EDIT: dw im just blind! stupid question... :rolleyes:

Edited by toryman76, 12 December 2007 - 08:54 PM.


#163 _jabba_

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Posted 12 December 2007 - 10:01 PM

hahaha :D :spoton:

#164 _jabba_

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Posted 21 December 2007 - 10:30 PM

One side down, one to go!

The floor isnt as straight as i would like, it will never win any awards but it should do the trick. Atleast its got less holes now :).

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Damien

#165 Heath

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Posted 21 December 2007 - 11:26 PM

Meh gets covered with carpet and looks like it won't rust so well done :P

#166 _jabba_

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Posted 22 December 2007 - 10:46 AM

Thats what i figured! Aslong as i dont fall through it haha :rolleyes:

#167 _jabba_

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Posted 26 December 2007 - 07:49 PM

What hole :).

The middle part of the floor pan also has to go, its rusted out aswell... Should see some more progress over the next few days :).

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And the floor pan, almost all unpicked... What a bastard of a job.

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Here's a new addition to the fish tank, got him for my g/f for chrissie :spoton:.

Glass is a little dirty on the outside...
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Damien

Edited by jabba, 26 December 2007 - 07:52 PM.


#168 _jabba_

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Posted 28 December 2007 - 04:08 PM

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Almost all welded in, excuse the ugly welds :P. Some clown trimmed to much of that center part out near the door jam, and now i cannot weld it up... Ill have to figure something out to bridge the gap. so i can finish that section of the floor. All that remains is to grind back the welds and trim up the next section.

#169 Tiny

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 09:37 AM

Holy shit dude, Your doing SOOOO much work!

Looks like your making good progress, It'll be all worth it when it's done!

Cheers!

#170 _jabba_

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 09:43 AM

Thanks Tiny, its amazing what a place to work on your car does (even if it is cramped). I've just been trying to do 2 - 3 hours a day, 3 days a week.

#171 Bart

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Posted 29 December 2007 - 12:25 PM

This is what you call a genuine rebuild. :spoton:

#172 _jabba_

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 10:44 PM

Your car is getting the full treatment too by the looks of it Bart, i havent actually posted in your thread but i love what your doing... Very insperational.

The boss told me to be quiet yesterday so i had to do something to amuse myself, so i mounted the engine into the subframe.

I've found one small issue, the crossmember that came with the gearbox doesnt seem to line up! I've got it sitting over the furthest back mounting holes on the subframe but it doesnt come close to lining up with the part welded onto the bottom. It does line up with the origional holes but id take a guess and say the box will sit too high and hit the floor, plus the sump hits on the crossmember. Any ideas on what the crossmember is actually from, i was told it was done like that from the factory.

Sorry lots more pics, but they might help explain what im blabbing about :).

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Edited by jabba, 30 December 2007 - 10:46 PM.


#173 Bart

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 11:21 PM

Mate i must admit, the extent of your work was like, extreme, i was like thinking what the f*ck, but looking at your latest pic its looking bloody good. You got bigger balls than me mate :spoton: good on ya. Love Monaro's so its bonus eye candy for me :spoton:

#174 Bart

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 11:24 PM

Oh and your cross member is not lining up, could it be because you got the cross member bolted into the wrong holes on ur subframe?? I know with the LJ Torana the subframe/chassis rails have half a dozen holes for the different cross member positions.

#175 rodomo

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Posted 30 December 2007 - 11:49 PM

Can you lift your engine off the front mounts and have the plates that bolt to the engine on the front side of the rubber mounts?
E.g move the engine forward?

This may already be, but I can't see in the pics.




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