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best way to clean underbody


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#1 _TUFF75LH355_

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 04:45 PM

just had my Torry jacked up checking wheel backspacing and had a good look while it was jacked up... so much crap on the underbody ( bit of dirt, that old black tar stuff in the wheel arhes etc, whats the best way to clean the under carriage to paint it and bring it up like new cheers ben

#2 _torana_umunga74_

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 05:39 PM

im gonna say the popular opinion will be elbow grease. get in with a scraper and a wire wheel in the grinder and even some paint stripper then paint it. i dunno bout paint or coatings for underneath tho..

#3 Heath

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 06:06 PM

Use POR15 if you have some money and want a good quality finish underneath, but any paint does alright. I just painted under my car with aussie export crap in most areas, and sound deadener in the arches.

Regardless of your methods, cleaning the underneath will take a while :P

#4 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 07:28 PM

I was lucky when I did my silver one , found a young guy on the dole , gave him $100 a day ,goggles and a wire brush , we both ended up happy .

#5 _hatch76_

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 08:05 PM

I done my engine bay and under guards with wire wheel on the grinder. Came off quick and easy but make sure you invest in a full face mask because shit goes every where.

#6 76lxhatch

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 08:51 PM

Yep, all solutions I know of involve elbow grease too...

He must have worked fast threeblindmice or it'd be a very expensive cleaning job!

#7 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 09:26 PM

Yep, all solutions I know of involve elbow grease too...

He must have worked fast threeblindmice or it'd be a very expensive cleaning job!

Not much of the total restoration cost , I didn't just leave him to it . I was there doing other stuff.

#8 _TRRANA_

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 10:53 PM

i got under my ranas and first used a scraper and wire brush to get bulk of the road crap and oil stains off, sprayed some heavy duty degreaser and let soak a bit, then got my pressure washer and blasted the hell out of it. Once dry i degreased again etc and with the more noticeable spots i used a tin of prepwash, then finished off with a couple of cans of chassis black paint....

Yes you will get covered in crap. Id love to own a rotisserie one day :)

Dorzy

Edited by TRRANA, 27 January 2010 - 10:56 PM.


#9 _beergut_

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 11:55 PM

above will work


but if you can get hold /hire/borrow a hoist and a steam pressure cleaner
it will turn 1 full day of hard dirty yakka into about 45 mins to an 1 and a half for semi hard yakka
but you will get wet and steam is fuking hot so wear all the safety gear you can find
ie sturdy rubber gloves not the latex kind
rain coat and hat
and thick rubber gloves
and a face mask!!!!

used this method when i was rust proofing and took 35 years of crap off an old eh in about an hour
mind you was wet and dirty all day lol

did use wet sandblasting to but i wouldn't recomend doing it this way

#10 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 06:53 PM

You mean like:

Posted Image

or just the wheel arches. I haven't done them yet, but I'm just going to degrease and put some bitumen paint in the arches after a good clean.

#11 _yldlj_

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 07:21 PM

wire wheel to clean it up maybe use a scraper first if there is thick crap on it. then just use proofcoat

#12 _TUFF75LH355_

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:13 PM

yella slur - that looks awesome mate exactly what im after, did you make the rotisserie yourself mate..??

#13 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:34 PM

Yep. I have posted the dimensions in fabrication section I think. Simple as to make.

It was a good idea at the time, but takes lots of prep. Basically, cleaned first with truck wash, then got my trusty wood chisel and scraped off the oily dirt. Next was a case of going all over with 400 wet and dry, prior to 800 wet and dry (takes forever). Spotted where I went through to metal to fix up paint chips etc with a can of acrylic primer spray can, then painted.

#14 _TUFF75LH355_

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:39 PM

cheers yella slur thanks for that appreciate it mate ill check to fabrication section tomorrow Cheers Ben

#15 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:48 PM

No worries. I used white guide coat to see where I had and hadn't sanded. Took a few days to get through it.

#16 _BATHURST-32D_

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:03 AM

the mask is a must if you value your life has that old shit under your wheel archers is full of asbestos, paint strip and scrap first.

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cheers gong

#17 76lxhatch

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 08:42 AM

the mask is a must if you value your life has that old shit under your wheel archers is full of asbestos, paint strip and scrap first.

I didn't know that, do you have any idea when they stopped using it?

#18 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 09:39 AM

^^ I think he is referring to remnant brake dust. They only stopped using asbestos in brake pads in the early 90's. I do not believe there is any asbestos in the body schulz (the rough paint finish under the guards). Happy to know if that's not the case though.

With my wheel arches, I'm just going to go over the top of what's already there.

#19 _beergut_

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 09:44 AM

use a steam powered gurrie!!!
you will thank me for the advice!!!
will work with a rottisore and you won't breathe the shit in but will leave a mess
well just as much as the other way suggested

#20 76lxhatch

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:54 PM

I think he is referring to remnant brake dust.

Duh, that makes more sense, thanks

#21 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 10:33 PM

From this post, seems like asbestos is used as a bulking agent in the old body deadener:-

http://www.gmh-toran...=0

^ Refer last post.

So however you use it, keep it fairly chunky to prevent the possibility of releasing fibres, i.e. sanding.

Are you able to clarify Gong?

Edited by Yella SLuR, 04 February 2010 - 10:34 PM.


#22 ewe-one

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 05:52 PM

Hi Gong,

Any chance you could let me know what undeseal you use? I have been looking at the Wurths Stone guard product but it looks as if the underseal you use is much flatter. Is this typical underseal for toranas?

Thanks
R




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