best way to clean underbody
#1 _TUFF75LH355_
Posted 27 January 2010 - 04:45 PM
#2 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 27 January 2010 - 05:39 PM
#3
Posted 27 January 2010 - 06:06 PM
Regardless of your methods, cleaning the underneath will take a while
#4 _threeblindmice_
Posted 27 January 2010 - 07:28 PM
#5 _hatch76_
Posted 27 January 2010 - 08:05 PM
#6
Posted 27 January 2010 - 08:51 PM
He must have worked fast threeblindmice or it'd be a very expensive cleaning job!
#7 _threeblindmice_
Posted 27 January 2010 - 09:26 PM
Not much of the total restoration cost , I didn't just leave him to it . I was there doing other stuff.Yep, all solutions I know of involve elbow grease too...
He must have worked fast threeblindmice or it'd be a very expensive cleaning job!
#8 _TRRANA_
Posted 27 January 2010 - 10:53 PM
Yes you will get covered in crap. Id love to own a rotisserie one day
Dorzy
Edited by TRRANA, 27 January 2010 - 10:56 PM.
#9 _beergut_
Posted 27 January 2010 - 11:55 PM
but if you can get hold /hire/borrow a hoist and a steam pressure cleaner
it will turn 1 full day of hard dirty yakka into about 45 mins to an 1 and a half for semi hard yakka
but you will get wet and steam is fuking hot so wear all the safety gear you can find
ie sturdy rubber gloves not the latex kind
rain coat and hat
and thick rubber gloves
and a face mask!!!!
used this method when i was rust proofing and took 35 years of crap off an old eh in about an hour
mind you was wet and dirty all day lol
did use wet sandblasting to but i wouldn't recomend doing it this way
#10 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 29 January 2010 - 06:53 PM
or just the wheel arches. I haven't done them yet, but I'm just going to degrease and put some bitumen paint in the arches after a good clean.
#11 _yldlj_
Posted 29 January 2010 - 07:21 PM
#12 _TUFF75LH355_
Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:13 PM
#13 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:34 PM
It was a good idea at the time, but takes lots of prep. Basically, cleaned first with truck wash, then got my trusty wood chisel and scraped off the oily dirt. Next was a case of going all over with 400 wet and dry, prior to 800 wet and dry (takes forever). Spotted where I went through to metal to fix up paint chips etc with a can of acrylic primer spray can, then painted.
#14 _TUFF75LH355_
Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:39 PM
#15 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:48 PM
#16 _BATHURST-32D_
Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:03 AM
cheers gong
#17
Posted 31 January 2010 - 08:42 AM
I didn't know that, do you have any idea when they stopped using it?the mask is a must if you value your life has that old shit under your wheel archers is full of asbestos, paint strip and scrap first.
#18 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 31 January 2010 - 09:39 AM
With my wheel arches, I'm just going to go over the top of what's already there.
#19 _beergut_
Posted 31 January 2010 - 09:44 AM
you will thank me for the advice!!!
will work with a rottisore and you won't breathe the shit in but will leave a mess
well just as much as the other way suggested
#20
Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:54 PM
Duh, that makes more sense, thanksI think he is referring to remnant brake dust.
#21 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 04 February 2010 - 10:33 PM
http://www.gmh-toran...=0
^ Refer last post.
So however you use it, keep it fairly chunky to prevent the possibility of releasing fibres, i.e. sanding.
Are you able to clarify Gong?
Edited by Yella SLuR, 04 February 2010 - 10:34 PM.
#22
Posted 25 February 2010 - 05:52 PM
Any chance you could let me know what undeseal you use? I have been looking at the Wurths Stone guard product but it looks as if the underseal you use is much flatter. Is this typical underseal for toranas?
Thanks
R
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