Plastic bushes should be OK in a static use, ie: x-member to body. But I doubt I'll use them again. I'll probably go back to making my own or use rubber.
hawks uc sunbird
Started by
hawk
, Jan 31 2010 11:12 AM
954 replies to this topic
#227
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 06:45 PM
ok well the rubber bushes are.squeeking so ill grease them.but i need urgent help fixing a miss fire ive tried the plugs leads dizzy cap and coil. but its still running like shit ... i took no.6 plug out and it had a small amount of oil on it could thid be the head gasket or rings have less.than 3 weeks to fix it and like 300 bucks please help
#228
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 08:04 PM
Use (I think) lithium based lube on rubber bushes. The oil on the plug could simply be worn (or missing) valve stem seals. Cheap to buy, but they can be a pain to fit.
#229
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 09:06 PM
well ill have to see the head will probably have to come off ... there was a massive backfire through the carby to, it shot a nice flame outa it
also seemed like oil coming out the exhaust but turned car off and then ran again and it wasnt there so may have been condensation
also seemed like oil coming out the exhaust but turned car off and then ran again and it wasnt there so may have been condensation
#230
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Posted 09 November 2011 - 07:08 AM
before you rush into it mate do a simple compression test will tell you if you need to pull the head off also have you pulled the sideplates off and had a look if all the lobes are still there
#231
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Posted 09 November 2011 - 09:09 AM
how do i do a compression test and do i need gaskets replaced it i take the.side plates.off?
also how will i tell if a lobe.is wiped
also how will i tell if a lobe.is wiped
#232
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Posted 09 November 2011 - 10:27 AM
Flames out of the carby is the engine running too lean or the timing is out.
#233
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Posted 09 November 2011 - 11:34 AM
ok i got a compression tester and thermostat so will put the thermostat in and test the compression
#234
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Posted 09 November 2011 - 02:02 PM
compression was 180 in all cylinders and adjusted timing, it was running slightly advanced
#236
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Posted 09 November 2011 - 04:34 PM
ok thanks well i think i need to do the upper rear arm bushes too
ok so after checking.the timing plugs leads coil dizzy cap and.comp and setting.anything.that was.wrong.right its running better nit when i spoke to.a.local.mechanic he told.me it was.overheating alot. so i changed the thermostat and put.coolant in... still no improvement. it also has a larger radiator with twin thermo fans . so i give up and its.off to the mechanics tomorrow
ok so after checking.the timing plugs leads coil dizzy cap and.comp and setting.anything.that was.wrong.right its running better nit when i spoke to.a.local.mechanic he told.me it was.overheating alot. so i changed the thermostat and put.coolant in... still no improvement. it also has a larger radiator with twin thermo fans . so i give up and its.off to the mechanics tomorrow
#237
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Posted 09 November 2011 - 08:13 PM
Overheating according to what? Don't trust the factory temp guessing game, make sure it is tested with a known good guage.
#238
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Posted 09 November 2011 - 09:32 PM
well the temp gauge.was.disconnected.when the last owner fitted the thermo.fans.but.its.the.fact that the heat.through the firewall is crazy and it.always feels like the heater is.on non stop... shouldnt get that.hot.inside the.car and the radiator.is still too hot.to touch even when the car hasnt been driven for over 2 hours
#239
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Posted 09 November 2011 - 09:55 PM
2 differnt ways to check the comp
1 cold and dry
2 hot and wet up to temp and with throttle wide ope open
180 psi is about 9-1 comp ratio
1 cold and dry
2 hot and wet up to temp and with throttle wide ope open
180 psi is about 9-1 comp ratio
#240
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Posted 09 November 2011 - 10:20 PM
we checked it at operating temp took all plugs out.and did.each cyl one at a time
#241
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Posted 10 November 2011 - 10:28 AM
well the temp gauge.was.disconnected.when the last owner fitted the thermo.fans.but.its.the.fact that the heat.through the firewall is crazy and it.always feels like the heater is.on non stop... shouldnt get that.hot.inside the.car and the radiator.is still too hot.to touch even when the car hasnt been driven for over 2 hours
Check to see the cables are actually moving the flaps in the heater box. If you're still having problems, I'll have a bit of a look when I'm over getting the bits next week.
#242
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Posted 10 November 2011 - 02:10 PM
whitch cables and could.it be the heater tap? got it back from the mechanics and it has a bad inlet.manifold air leak so im replacing the gasket later then the timing and tuning will be fixed. also the.front nolathane bushes also crumbled (where can i complain about this) so mew front bushes are.needed as well as a ball joint as one has some slight play. if i can get this done in the next week ill make it to the cruise.
does.anyone have some lower front control arms with ok rubber bushes for.cheap or free as im desperate here?
does.anyone have some lower front control arms with ok rubber bushes for.cheap or free as im desperate here?
#243
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Posted 10 November 2011 - 07:29 PM
It could be the heater tap. It would be best to get somebody to move the cable controls and get somebody else to see if they move freely. A bit of CRC or WD40 down the inside of the cable could be enough to free it up if it's the problem.
#244
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Posted 11 November 2011 - 10:01 AM
ok thanks
#245
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Posted 15 November 2011 - 05:14 PM
well the gasket was replaced and adjusted and fixed the exhaust so now all there is to do before the cruise on the weekend is the timing and if i can the two front bushes ... is there anyone who can help me do the front lower arm bushes? i also need a spring compressor
#246
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Posted 15 November 2011 - 06:49 PM
You don't really need a spring compressor, you can do it using a trolley jack. Place the car on stands and put the trolley jack head under the lower arm with a small gap to the arm (best placement would be under the spring seat). Remove the ball joint nut and hit the stub axle on the sides around where the ball joint shaft passes through the stub axle. The ball joint will pop off and onto the trolley jack. Lower the trolley jack and your done. To reassemble use the tolley jack again to compress the spring, just ensure the jack head is placed on the outer edge of the lower arm (be careful with placement) to get more leverage.
I've used this method many times with success and no danger. I have used a spring compressor and I found it more difficult and more dangerous than the above method. If the springs are quite stiff (like mine) the spring will be able to be installed without compressing the spring with the jack (and my car isn't low), this also means there is less spring energy released when the ball joint pops.
hth
I've used this method many times with success and no danger. I have used a spring compressor and I found it more difficult and more dangerous than the above method. If the springs are quite stiff (like mine) the spring will be able to be installed without compressing the spring with the jack (and my car isn't low), this also means there is less spring energy released when the ball joint pops.
hth
#247
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Posted 15 November 2011 - 07:07 PM
thanks ill give it a go tomorrow if i have time
#248
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Posted 15 November 2011 - 09:54 PM
If the cross member was out of the car, a spring compresor would be needed. On a complete car, the vehicle weight will be enough if using a trolley jack as stated above.
#249
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Posted 04 December 2011 - 07:17 PM
well today was a prick of a day somehow the wheel nuts came.loose and a whell stud snapped so i lost the passengers side front wheel .
so now i need a new front guard, stub axle and disc guard. so pissed off
so now i need a new front guard, stub axle and disc guard. so pissed off
#250
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Posted 04 December 2011 - 07:47 PM
Oh what a shit of thing to happen Steve! You made it out in one piece though, so always a positive out of a negative mate.
You know the day I picked up my hatch the rear wheel came off going around a corner? The fella was follwing me to LX5008's house and on the last corner
BAM! off she came, along with the drum. It shook the bog out of the car!!!! LOL.
I have some red UC guards, but they are a bit rusty mate, and in Sydney.
You know the day I picked up my hatch the rear wheel came off going around a corner? The fella was follwing me to LX5008's house and on the last corner
BAM! off she came, along with the drum. It shook the bog out of the car!!!! LOL.
I have some red UC guards, but they are a bit rusty mate, and in Sydney.
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