954 replies to this topic

[hawk]

A massive thanks to daz aka LS1 taxi top bloke and really appreciate his help today.

Cant thank you enough.

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[Covert]

Great work Daz, no doubt Steve will pass the favour on to someone else in the future

[hawk]

I hope I can

 

on a quick side note, I had a chat to my dad about his LH and LX and he wants to paint his LH over summer so ill throw up some pics when that starts.

the LX is very rusty and is the parts car. the pics below are a few years old and the cars are buried under other things now.

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[Steve TPF]

Hey Steve: it took me a while to get around to this, don't know if you're still interested but here's how you make the original rear discs work with the drum handbrake cables. Not that hard really.

 

1: swap the handbrake levers on the calipers over so that they work in "pull forward" not "pull back". To make this work you need to redrill the return spring locator hole on the opposite side of the caliper.

 

 

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[Steve TPF]

Step 2: make up some mounting brackets for the cables. These bolt to existing holes in the lower arms. They are butt-ugly I'll admit, I'll replace them at some stage with some brackets that have adjustment built in. For the moment though they work fine. Handbrake functions perfectly.

 

 

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[hawk]

Thanks will look into it if I keep them. Been thinking of going back to drums.

[hawk]

Just took it for a quick drive and im going to pull the motor and box when the move is done. The clutch slips from about 1500 onwards which is strange as it grabs well on takeoff. There is a driveline vibration that im worried about and the tappets are very noisy.

The vibration is there in neutral when I get just off idle as well.

[neglectedtorana]

Good work on your project and well done for persisting when things get hard and money gets tight

 

I saw a clutch on your shopping list

I have one in the shed, I think it has never been used and has a bit of rust but looks mostly in order, the friction disc is in very good condition just some rust on the face of the spring diaphram (sorry if I have named it wrong)

 

Not 100% sure but think it is to suit the Aussie 4 speed, it does slide onto the input shaft of a 6 cylinder 4 speed that is lying around so am guessing the 6 and 8 boxes are the same, maybe someone else can confirm??

 

If you want it send me a PM with an address and I will post it

 

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[EunUCh]

That looks like it is frokin new...yeay..a bit of clean up and and it will be ok...yep 6 & 8 share the same spline?

[hawk]

Cheers really appreciate it. If an oil leak let a bit of oil in there would it cause slipping? Or maybe I need the flywheel machined.

[hawk]

Motor and box are out again.

[Potta]

Keep going Steve it will be worth it in the end

[hawk]

Ok so the clutch turned up the other day and a big thanks to tom aka neglected torana for it.

Have also picked up a new thrust bearing and more gasket sealer. Will do the seals when i have the time and the weathers not too bad.

Is the input shaft meant to have a little play in it?

Which way around does the pressure plate go? Springs towards the gearbox or towards the motor?

[Bigfella237]

Yeah that's not unusual, the front of the input shaft is supported by the spigot bush once everything is bolted up.

 

The spring side goes into the pressure plate, if you hold the clutch plate up to the flywheel I think you'll find it fouls on the flywheel bolts if you have it around the wrong way.

 

When you remove the front bearing retainer to do the seal, make sure that the input shaft and bearing do not move forward at all, if it does then all the little needle rollers that support the front of the main shaft can fall into the gearbox. They are individual rollers, not in a cage.

[hawk]

small update, got a new job working 6 days a week which is good but leaves little time for torana work.

after thinking about it for a while I decided to drop the gearbox off and have it done properly. should have it back in a month or so depending on what needs to be done.

 

also planning on some extractors and hopefully new wheels if money ever allows me too.

 

for handling and good feel through corners would you recommend 15" wheels or 17" wheels? im thinking the 17's will be too big.

[neglectedtorana]

think there is something written on that clutch plate which says which way it goes, bit hard to read under the paint but i could be thinking of something else

'flywheel this side' or similar

[hawk]

Thanks guys

[EunUCh]

Not trying to put you off a new set of rims/rubber or anything and the rules for such things may vary from state to state?

From what i can gather the below text from NCOP is for mods not needing cert.

Worth a bit of a read to keep things "simple" without having to go through other mods or even worse being involved in a minor bingle..even if it was not your fault you can bet your bottom dollar they will find something?

 

2.1 DRIVEABILITY
Driveability in this context means that when driven on the road the vehicle responds to the
drivers inputs without any dangerous or undesirable reactions and meets the turning and
clearance requirements of the AVSR.
Owners wishing to alter the appearance and/or road handling characteristics of their vehicles
often alter suspensions and fit tyres and rims different from the original manufacturer’s
specifications. Some changes can achieve improvements in cornering stability, but other
changes, including unsuitable tyre and rim selection can lead to dangerous situations. The
following should be considered:
2.1.1 Steering Behaviour
Fitting wider rims and tyres usually involves altering the steering scrub radius. This can result in
unpredictable steering response characteristics.

4.2.4 Overall Nominal Diameter
The overall diameter of any tyre fitted to a passenger car or passenger car derivative must not
be more than 15mm larger or 26mm smaller than that of any tyre designated by the vehicle
manufacturer for that model.
4.2.8 Maximum Passenger Car Tyre and Rim Width
Tyres fitted to passenger cars or passenger car derivatives must not be more than 30% wider
than vehicle manufacturer’s widest optional tyre.
The rim width must not exceed the recommendations for the tyre fitted.
For example, if the original widest optional tyre is 185mm, the maximum tyre width is 1.3 times
185mm = 240.5mm, i.e. a 235mm wide tyre. The maximum rim width for a 235mm tyre is
9 inches if the aspect ratio is 60 or below.
4.2.9 Passenger Car Wheel Track
The wheel track of passenger cars (or derivatives) must not be increased by more than 25mm
beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer for the particular model. This
means that the rim offset must not be changed by more than 12.5mm.
Reduction in wheel track must not be performed without approval of the relevant Registration
Authority.
On vehicles with diagonally split brake systems, the front wheel offset (and front wheel track)
should remain as original, except where the original manufacturer specifies differently with
optional rims for a particular model.

 

besides,nothing wrong with the hotwires,put some sticky rubber on em that is withing the limits....

 

[hawk]

Problem is the offset is a bit off and its so hard to get decent tyres in a 14 in the size i want. And trust i know i work as a tyre salesman and fitting tyres.

With the 15's i can custom order to get the right offset with say 15x7 front and 15x8 rear and run bridgestone re003's.

I want them just inside the guards so i can tuck a bit of tyre without scrubbing which the rear 14's do and they only have 215's on them.

As for legalities its still registered as a 6 and if far from a roadworthy state. It will need a fair bit more attenion before i can safely drive it on a regular basis.

Things on my list so far are.
1. Get the motor and box finished and back up and running.
2. Finish the wiring as i still havnt wired up the wipers and heater.
3. Sort out the rear brakes.
4. Replace the rear arms and bushes (long story). But exhaust hits upper arm and stuffed it.
5. Replace exhaust and have it done properly.
6. Either new unis or go to the v8 tailshaft.
7. Shifter boot to stop funes and such getting in.

Theres more to do like hook up the heater and so on but that can wait. Should have the box back in about a month so will buy a few other bits in the mean time.

I know UCgazman linked me to some cheap extractors but what are the best ones out there for performance, just incase i upgrade to more power later on?

[hawk]

Ordered some pacemaker extractors today.
They are the 5250 tri y's with
1 3/4 primarys
1 7/8 secondarys
And a 2" collector

[hawk]

Got the verdict on the box today.
Needs new synchros and bearings and the cluster isnt great the hardening is gone in places so ill be looking at a new one