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LX Hatch RB30 Turbo


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#126 _BAILLIE_

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 05:24 PM

Very nice work mate.

Would you be interested in knocking up another chassis kit and drop-tank / boot floor setup?

Looks like there is room for twin pipes down either side yeh?

Did you need to run any heat shields between the tank and exhaust for RWC?

How much shorter did the diff end up compared to stock, and what was it supposed to be?

Edited by BAILLIE, 04 March 2011 - 05:25 PM.


#127 RBTORY

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 02:32 AM

Hey turbo76lx just another to tell you your work is top shelf I saw your car at the island I had the gold ljrb30 which engineer did you use?

#128 turbo76lx

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 08:29 AM

Baillie, i'm a bit busy building my other torana to make any parts but can take some more photos and measurements if that helps. The tank i made off set to run

one pipe and the only requirement for RWC and engineers was a minimum of 10mm clearance. I have no heat shields between the exahust the the tank, i kept it

as far away from the tank as posible, the tank does get hot if it is below 1/4 of a tank because of the fuel return, which will be getting a fuel cooler soon. The diff was

ment to be standard width plus VN discs which would have ment using wheels with 1" positive off set, which there are many different styles of wheel to chose from.

When they built the diff they didn't relise that a 35 spline detroit locker the end of the axles should almost touch because they are hollow through the centre where as a

31 slpine detroit need 25mm between the end of the axles. The diff turned up all bolted together i was lucky i decided to pull the centre out to make sure everthing was ok.

When i rang them he wouldn't supply new axles only cut the diff back which created problems with the position of brake calipers and i had to find wheels with a 1/2" positive off set,

which is limited. Considering at the time i ordered 2 comlpete diffs and another centre, $9000 in total plus was looking at buying more parts, he wasn't interested in fixing his mistakes

Also the other diff had one of the top mounts welded 20mm higher than the other, i fixed this myself.

This person works out of SYDNEY i think he does a lot of COMPETITION and works out of a WAREHOUSE.

RBTORY i had a look at yours at the island, you've done a great job, it's a real sleeper. The engineer i used was Andrew Enkelman.

#129 _dirtbag_

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 09:00 AM

Hahaha Glen I love the subliminal message for SCW : )

Pity you had to get screwed over though : (

#130 RBTORY

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 07:09 PM

Where is andrew enkelman situated
Thanks

#131 turbo76lx

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 07:53 PM

This should help http://aenkassoc.enk...m/about_us.html.

Is yours engineered?

#132 _BAILLIE_

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 12:22 AM

Thanks heaps for all the info : )

Sorry to hear of even more dodgy tradies out there, but at least your engineer sounds like a good bloke.



#133 RBTORY

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 05:41 PM

Yeah im on my second housing after my first housing was done the pinion was facing the ground something like 5deg neg pinion angle then get told it sounds like a balance problem mate not the diff that cant cause a vibration next diff gets done right by me no more cowboys. Not enginered yet

#134 turbo76lx

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 06:59 PM

Went down to JPC today, it has felt like it's been down on power. Had it re-tuned with two maps, one at 15psi 235rwkw (315rwhp) and the other

at 26psi 325rwkw (435rwhp). They advanced the cam 2 degrees and found the TPS was playing up and to wide band o2 sensor wasn't working.

It's now a little bit more interesting to drive but now has another problem, a lack of traction.:3gears:


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#135 MRLXSS

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 07:09 PM

WOW! Thats very impressive!

#136 turbo76lx

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 07:24 PM

It will be interesting when i get around to putting some C16 or E85 in it. Hopefull get to Heathcote on the torana day, if not sooner
.

#137 RBTORY

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Posted 11 March 2011 - 10:13 PM

Nice one glad to hear it went well

#138 turbo76lx

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 07:43 PM

Had some fun today, drove to Heathcote bolted up the M/T street ET's and had a few runs. The best run of the day was 12.29@ 130mph.

I think i need to get the converter loosened up a bit, just can't get it to stall up on the trans-brake above 3000rpm, which is where it just starts to make boost.

Now i need to pick all the bugs out of the intercooler, hit a few swarms of locusts on the way home.

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#139 RBTORY

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 03:04 AM

nice one should get a lot quicker through some playing around that power should get you into the tens easy

#140 _Liam_

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 05:59 PM

nice one should get a lot quicker through some playing around that power should get you into the tens easy


Yeah you would think his main issue now is traction. See the speed? 130 MPH... That's almost 9's.

#141 turbo76lx

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:13 PM

The problem is the stall, it's been built a bit tight, it flashes up to 2800rpm then creeps to 3000rpm where it starts to make boost then climbs to 3300rpm.

When i let it off the trans brake it falls off boost. I thought with the re-tuning the extra power would make the stall work but the motor is a little lazy down low.

So when i get time i will pull the stall out and get another 500rpm put in to it.

#142 _Liam_

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:27 PM

The problem is the stall, it's been built a bit tight, it flashes up to 2800rpm then creeps to 3000rpm where it starts to make boost then climbs to 3300rpm.

When i let it off the trans brake it falls off boost. I thought with the re-tuning the extra power would make the stall work but the motor is a little lazy down low.

So when i get time i will pull the stall out and get another 500rpm put in to it.


But if boost is being made at 3000 RPM, if you do a 3500 RPM stall, won't it have even less traction til 2nd gear.

#143 turbo76lx

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 08:04 PM

This stall was built to be a 4000rpm stall but because the motor isn't making boost/power until higher in the revs the stall is not working.

Traction isn't a problem at the moment when it leaves the line it drops off boost so it drives off normally until it gets to about 60kmh then all hell breaks loose.

#144 _mumbo_

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 09:02 PM

If I was putting a auto and stall behind my RB25 I would be going around 5500rpm as it comes on boost at 4000 and revs to 7500.
When does yours come on and what does it rev to ? You need it to leave right in the boost to stop it from dropping off

#145 turbo76lx

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 09:29 PM

It starts making boost at 2900-3000rpm it hits 10psi at about 3500 and just keeps climbing to 26psi. I've got the limiter set a 8000rpm but shift at 7000.

#146 _mumbo_

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 10:04 PM

It starts making boost at 2900-3000rpm it hits 10psi at about 3500 and just keeps climbing to 26psi. I've got the limiter set a 8000rpm but shift at 7000.

I would go at least 4500 to 5000

#147 turbo76lx

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 07:51 PM

4500-5000 stall would probably work very well but i'm trying to keep it as street friendly as possible so i'll just start with adding another 500rpm to the stall and see how that goes.

#148 _mumbo_

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Posted 31 March 2011 - 09:51 PM

You would be surprised how drivable they are with big stall , my Tory stalls to over 5000rpm when I 1st put it in I spun out a bit but now I love it :buttrock:

#149 turbo76lx

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Posted 10 June 2012 - 07:03 PM

Update time, had the head fixed, had to much valve stem clearance, using oil, Mark (JPC) done a new head under warranty, good to have an engine builder that backs his work.
Also sent the stall to dominator who fixed all the nasties and added 500rpm to the stall.
Went to Heathcote today had 5 runs best time was 10.38 and best MPH was 137.91.

Here's one of the time slips, it's good to give then a head start them hunt them down.

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#150 _wileyg_

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Posted 12 June 2012 - 07:06 PM

can see a 9 coming




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