Should be the same ratio as your colour coats: 1 part paint to 1.5 parts thinner (*Tip* when you pour your thinners into the gun pot, multiply that level by 0.66 and that will tell you how much paint you need to pour in.)
I'd rub it back gently before recoating if it's been sitting a week. Be careful not to go through the paint (go easy on corners and lips etc.) And lastly make sure you prepwash with clean rags (get your son to go behind you with a dry rag to remove excess residue.) Try not to use rags that have lint falling off
painting 2pac or acrylic
Started by
_gtr161s_
, Apr 11 2006 05:27 PM
41 replies to this topic
#27
_LoneOranger_
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Posted 30 April 2006 - 10:08 PM
Thanks Eddie,
More good advice.
Will take it all on board.
Thanks, John.
More good advice.
Will take it all on board.
Thanks, John.
#28
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 30 April 2006 - 11:57 PM
thats fine rub car with 600-800 then prepsol entire car then wipe off excess with a clean rag, give it 1/2 hour to dry then lightly brush over the surface with a tack rag to pick up any dust particiles then apply the clear, use 1 1/2 parts thinner to 1 part clear dont bomb it on just medium wet coats. if its a metalic black then put 2 light coats of colour on just before the clear or it can have a patchy dull effect under the clear from sanding, if its a solid black then its ok to put clear straight on after the rub back.
#29
_LoneOranger_
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 05:31 PM
The car IS solid black.
Should we leave it for 5 or 6 weeks for the paint to harden before rubbing the paint and applying the clear? We're in no rush.
Should we leave it for 5 or 6 weeks for the paint to harden before rubbing the paint and applying the clear? We're in no rush.
#30
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 07:13 PM
no theres no point in waiting any longer, its fine to put the clear on now then wait around 3-4 weeks to let the solvents dry out of the paint then cut and buff it.
#31
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 07:34 PM
when cutting back what you will be looking for is a completely matt finish if its not cut back properly it will have an almost pinhole look to it, this must be cut out or it wont buff properly , so keep cutting until there is absolutley no shiny spots or little shiny dots no matter how small, believe me its way easier to buff when its fully cut it comes up really quick, so dont be scared to give it a good cut the flatter you cut it the better it will come up,
when cutting dont cut the panel edges or bodyline edges leave about 1-2mm either side of the edge or line these will buff in fine and you wont cut through that way, when buffing stay away from the panel edges and make sure the buff pad is spinning in a direction off the panel edge not towards it, just work up to the lines and edges dont buff across them.
its also a good idea to spray a little water from a squirty bottle on the panel when buffing this will keep the buff pad cool and stop it from burning the paint, just keep the buff moving constanly at a reasonably slow pace on low speed around 1800 rpm do not use a 9 inch grinder they spin way too fast, it must be a buff machine.
with black its best to then wash the car then buff the car again with 2k fine compound this will bring it up alot better and delete alot of swirl marks wash the car again to get rid of compound residue, then use meguires swirl remover by hand then use meguires wetlook polymer sealant polish applied by hand, if you follow these steps you will blow yourselves away with the finish you will achieve.
when cutting dont cut the panel edges or bodyline edges leave about 1-2mm either side of the edge or line these will buff in fine and you wont cut through that way, when buffing stay away from the panel edges and make sure the buff pad is spinning in a direction off the panel edge not towards it, just work up to the lines and edges dont buff across them.
its also a good idea to spray a little water from a squirty bottle on the panel when buffing this will keep the buff pad cool and stop it from burning the paint, just keep the buff moving constanly at a reasonably slow pace on low speed around 1800 rpm do not use a 9 inch grinder they spin way too fast, it must be a buff machine.
with black its best to then wash the car then buff the car again with 2k fine compound this will bring it up alot better and delete alot of swirl marks wash the car again to get rid of compound residue, then use meguires swirl remover by hand then use meguires wetlook polymer sealant polish applied by hand, if you follow these steps you will blow yourselves away with the finish you will achieve.
Edited by 1QUICK LJ, 01 May 2006 - 07:42 PM.
#33
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 11:28 PM
by the way id advise to put 6 coats of clear on it adds a bit more of a safety margin when cutting back.
#34
_gtr161s_
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Posted 02 May 2006 - 08:24 AM
Ive been reading some more of the q & a's to the question i originaly posted and have learnt so much its unbelievble.
Thanks to everyone for all there inputs, Kev
Thanks to everyone for all there inputs, Kev
Edited by gtr161s, 02 May 2006 - 08:24 AM.
#35
_gtr161s_
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Posted 03 May 2006 - 10:38 PM
Another question which i need answering as ive had different replys,
What is the procedure for preparing a panel which requires part body filler on one section only and the rest is ok.
From what i was told it must be stripped back to bare metal,cleaned, then apply the filler to section needed then im not clear which should be done next to the clean straight part of panel. Does this make sense?
What is the procedure for preparing a panel which requires part body filler on one section only and the rest is ok.
From what i was told it must be stripped back to bare metal,cleaned, then apply the filler to section needed then im not clear which should be done next to the clean straight part of panel. Does this make sense?
#36
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 03 May 2006 - 11:45 PM
id recomend to strip it back to bare metal as its a bit easier without old paint coming into the issue. then grind up area to be bogged do the area bigger than needed then once the bog is sanded go over the metal area with ranex or dioxodine the nutralise with a damp rag (water) then wipe off excess with a clean dry rag leave to dry for around 30 min then give it another scuff with 120 dry blow off then put a couple of coats of etch primer.
#37
_gtr161s_
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Posted 04 May 2006 - 10:16 PM
1quicklj, have you heard of this process, once you have bare metal rub over with deoxidine, then clean water, dry off, then finish with methylated spirits to neutralize which i'm quessing will evaporate any water ??
Also you say to apply etch primer over the rest of bare metal once ive finished sanding the bog, does this include going over the bog with etch??, then start with the undercoat??
This is the part where ive been getting different advice.
Also you say to apply etch primer over the rest of bare metal once ive finished sanding the bog, does this include going over the bog with etch??, then start with the undercoat??
This is the part where ive been getting different advice.
#38
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 06 May 2006 - 01:42 AM
it doesnt really matter if the etch primer goes on the bog yes the methylated spirits can be used after no probs
#39
_LoneOranger_
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Posted 18 May 2006 - 10:06 PM
Thanks to everybody that gave me advice on painting my sons Mini.
Car looks good (well the paint anyway)
After we cut it back (acrylic) and buff it , I'm sure He'll be very happy.
Regards to all, John.
Car looks good (well the paint anyway)
After we cut it back (acrylic) and buff it , I'm sure He'll be very happy.
Regards to all, John.
#40
_LoneOranger_
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Posted 27 September 2006 - 10:36 PM
I received some good advice about my son painting his Mini.
The car is finished now and looks pretty good.
If some one can post pics for me I will e-mail them
Thanks to all who gave advice.
Regards, John.
The car is finished now and looks pretty good.
If some one can post pics for me I will e-mail them
Thanks to all who gave advice.
Regards, John.
#41
_LoneOranger_
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Posted 27 September 2006 - 10:38 PM
I received some good advice about my son painting his Mini.
The car is finished now and looks pretty good.
If some one can post pics for me I will e-mail them
Thanks to all who gave advice.
Regards, John.
The car is finished now and looks pretty good.
If some one can post pics for me I will e-mail them
Thanks to all who gave advice.
Regards, John.
#42
TerrA LX
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Posted 27 September 2006 - 10:53 PM
is there an echo in here?
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