228 replies to this topic

[turbo76lx]

My shed is the same full of spare parts that i may not need but i know soon as i get rid of something you can bet that will be the part i am after for the next project.

But the spares are starting to pile up.

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 10:44 AM.

[turbo76lx]

The rubberless bars will end up on my hatch. I'm actually after another set for this project myself. If i happen to find a spare set i will let you know.

[turbo76lx]

Modifyed the booster today using a VN booster and master cylinder. If i had a spare LX dual diaphragm booster i would have just pulled both the LX and VN apart

and made one out of the two, but had to do a cut and shut job. I still pulled the VN booster apart to get the push rod out so when i welded it i could put the seals in water

without quenching the weld. Also gave me a chance to make sure the seals and diaphragm are in good condition.

Super home made separator.

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LX and VN push rods.

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Keeping the seal cool after welding.

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Brand new second hand booster.

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 10:46 AM.

[MRLXSS]

Wish i had your skills! Dammit!!

[turbo76lx]

I still stuff up to but learnt how to hide my mistakes or just not post the photos. Like most other people you learn by your mistakes or if all else fails read the manual.

But most of the time i learn by just pulling things apart, like the booster i started with a broken one and thought well i can't stuff it anymore so pull it apart and see how it works.

[turbo76lx]

nial8r - it's not to hard to separate the booster, you do need to make up some kind of sepator not only to pull it apart but also put it back together.

The HK shop manual or volume 2 HQ service manual gives a good run down, just make sure you keep everything clean and only use rubber grease.

[turbo76lx]

Decided to modify the engine mounts to move it foward 12mm, basically just used the HQ mounts welded a new piece on filled the original holes

and drilled new holes. I also had a play with torana mounts and was suprised that the only difference between Torana and HQ mounts was the

height and didn't move the motor foward or back.

HQ mounts.

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25x6 flat bar tacked on and hole filled.

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Welded, sanded and a pilot hole drilled.

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Old holes filled then sanded.

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Finished mounts with the excess flat bar cut off.

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 10:48 AM.

[turbo76lx]

With the modified mounts i can now remove the dissy without having to cut the drip rail on the fire wall and the air box doesn't need to be modified.

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The gearbox mount still fits the slots in the cross member.

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 10:49 AM.

[turbo76lx]

Keyed all the locks the same today, what a fun job. Also found 6cyl VL commodore accelerator cable will work but need to shorten the inner cable about 30mm.

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 10:52 AM.

[rodomo]

This is my kind of thread! Keep up the good (think outside the square) work!

[turbo76lx]

looks like ya been busy mate, what box & cross member are you using ??
also bring the motor forward is a really good idea, how much room do you have now between the the radiator & the front of the motor as this could be an option for me so that i wont have to cut the lip on the fire wall

Not that busy, getting closer to starting body work which i'm not looking forward to. I'm just using an aussie 4 speed and standard cross member.

From a 3 core radiator to the front of the block in 269mm, if i remember on the weekend i will take some more mearurements.

12mm is about the most you can move the motor forward unless you modify the sump.

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 10:53 AM.

[orangeLJ]

Wow!

How did you go about keying all the locks the same?

I have about ten door locks for my ute, but only one with a key that fits.

[turbo76lx]

Thanks for the comments guys, to me the fabrication side is the easy part and costs nothing but time, it's the body work and paint that i'm not looking forward to,

i've only done a small amount of panel work in the past so it's going to be a steep learning curve.

OrangeLJ The hardest thing about re-keying the locks is to gently work around the the back of the lock slowly with a screw driver to pry off the stainless steel shroud without

destroying it then the lock can come apart. I will try and take some more photos and write a better decription on how to.

[rodomo]

How did you go about keying all the locks the same?

Would I be right in saying that there are only 5 or 6 different size sliding plates and all you have to do is move them up and down the barrel to suit your keys?

[turbo76lx]

rodomo There are 6 sliding plates which are all the same besides the small notch on the side. Most of the time you can get away with swapping the plates around, if not file a new ' v '.

A glove box lock is a bit easier. I will get some photos on how to do the glove box lock on the weekend.

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 10:54 AM.