228 replies to this topic

[turbo76lx]

I'll see if I can get some photos on the weekend.

[SmacT]

Thanks Glen. I have an idea how best to do it, but am tipping you have a better/neater/awesomer solution than I can think of. :-)

[turbo76lx]

Sam this is how I mounted the seats, I based the mounting position off the rear out side original seat mounting hole to match the commodore mount I welded tow pieces of 50x6 flat bar on the front of the slides to pick up the original  and drilled a new hole through the floor for the rear inner.

 

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Front outer.

 

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Front inner.

 

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I machined up some mounts to go under the rear commodore mounts to set the angle of the seat, they are 17mm high and tapered down 5 deg.

 

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The passenger side mounts need a 20mm spacer in the inner commodore rail.

 

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 12:20 PM.

[SmacT]

Glen, thanks for the detail! That's great. And yes, better than I dreamed up. I can't machine anything myself, but I can get it done.

Appreciate the effort to do this, thanks.

[turbo76lx]

Fitted the central locking to the front doors, used the thin type actuator.

 

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Just clears the window regulator.

 

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Flipped the door lock nob rod to the other side of the mechanism so it's in-line with the actuator.  

 

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 12:25 PM.

[turbo76lx]

Also fitted the front and rear windscreens, cut the mylar at 45 deg because I couldn't fit the corner pieces.

 

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 12:27 PM.

[turbo76lx]

Got the seats re-trimmed, the fronts are vn HSV seats.

 

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Random photos.

 

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 12:30 PM.

[turbo76lx]

Running a Dakota Digital thermo fan controller which can run off the engine temp sender but I think it was coming on to late and is

 

not a true indicator of the radiator temp . From what I have read  it is better to have the sensor in the bottom of the radiator.

 

So I pulled the radiator out and welded in a bung and fitted a new sensor for the controller.

 

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 12:31 PM.

[308mate]

Real clean, great daily! Is it rego'd?

[turbo76lx]

Not yet.

[axistr]

Why not just use the engine E.C.M to control the fans, The E.C.M uses a earth output to control a relay(swaps from a positive to a negative) to trigger. Using the E.C.M  your fans will automatically cut out when the vehicle speed is over 55 kph, has much more advantages. I also wired in an override switch on the console but haven't look like needing it yet.

[turbo76lx]

I did set up the fans originally with one on a manual switch and the other one triggered by the ecu. I ran the car on the fan controled by the ecu only and the fan came on to late (97deg).

[axistr]

When one of my fan relays on the hatch played up it started overheating at lights very quickly. Only had one out of the two fans pulling the air through the radiator. The new style fans we see these days pull the temp down very quickly. They only cut in for 30-40 seconds on the hatch and SLR even on a 40 deg day.

 

If you remove the radiator cap with the engine running on cars from the 90s up till today they will very quickly start to bubble and then boil over. The engines and cooling systems are designed to run between 95 to 105 degrees C . They do this to reduce emissions, if it wasn't for the pressure cap regulation the pressure all these cars would boil. The higher the pressure the higher the boiling temp.

 

I wouldn't get too excited about the fan cutting in at 97. However when I got the SLR E.C.M reprogramed I got them to set the E.C.M fan cut in at 93 and I fitted a 85deg thermostat. The heater works great during winter to. The original Torana temp gauge never gets over 1/4. 90-95

 

I used two individual 30 amp relays for the fans that the E.C.M controls and a third relay that triggers the two 30 amp fan relays so I could run the system through a manual switch on the consol. I have never had to use the over ride switch yet. 

 

The other benefit running it through the E.C.M is the fans cut in automatically when my air conditioner compressor cuts in under 55 kph  to give more air flow over the A/C condenser and keep the cooling system temp stabilised. I don't even think about the temp anymore it's all done automatically, don't need to watch the temp at light and reaching for a manual fan switch like I had to in my early days. 

 

Its just a thought as I have seen so many aftermarket fan controllers play up. 

 

I am running a Ford EL twin fan setup on both cars with three core brass/copper Torana radiator.

 

     

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[turbo76lx]

Changed out the steering rag joint for the double knuckle so made a cotter pin remover out of some 50x25mm flat bar.

 

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Ended up fitting a cat.

 

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Got some centres routered out for the centre caps.

 

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And now have twins.

 

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 12:34 PM.

[turbo76lx]

I have found that there is a vibration over 100 kph I tried swapping the rear wheels which had no effect, then I checked the driveline angles.

 

The motor was 4.5 deg down to the rear and the pinion was 1.5 deg down, the pinion should be pointing up anywhere from 1 to 4 deg to match the engine.

 

So took a spare pair of lower trailing arms and shortened then 10mm which brought the pinion angle to 1.8 deg up which should be ok as I am running rubber bushes which under load the pinion should rotate up closer to the 4 deg required, but the vibration was still there. I checked the unis and found the rear had 0.6mm side play in the yoke so made two 0.25mm shims and fitted them each side of the caps, but still had the vibration.

 

I then set the car up on stands in the shed and ran it up to 100 kph with the wheels on and off, still had the vibration, I checked the tail shaft with a dial indicator and found it was out +/-0.35mm so put the two 0.25mm shims on one side of the yoke this brought it back to +/-0.08mm and no more vibration.

 

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Tyres between the car and bench just in case it come off the stands.

 

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 12:36 PM.

[tefa]

is it a custom tail shaft?

[turbo76lx]

Yes 3.5" with 1350 series unis, the tail shaft was not the problem, one of the small side retainers on the diff yoke was worn or bent.

 

I'm changing the centre at the moment, 3.5 ratio is a bit to low so changing to the spare 3.25 with a detroit locker.

 

Made up a bracket to hold the centre on the trolley jack.

 

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Edited by turbo76lx, 22 October 2017 - 12:38 PM.

[Heath]

hahaha your diff jig is awesome and I've never seen one before! Those steel/iron 9" centres are offensively heavy.