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BIg dent in my door

Started by _SLR Goat_ , Mar 06 2010 11:49 AM

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25 replies to this topic

#1 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 11:49 AM

Last night a mate got a little excited and backed into my drivers door got some pics how hard do u think it will be to fix or should i just search for another door

cheers dennis

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#2 Statler

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 11:51 AM

Get another door m8.

If you are lucky, you might be able to just re-skin it.

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#3 _uncleian_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 12:00 PM

what he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

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#4 GML-31

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 12:58 PM

get a new door ... that one must way a ton anyhow looking at the thickness of bog that has cracked.

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#5 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 03:42 PM

^ Are you guys serious? Big dents usually come out pretty easy. Bog has probably been used over the intrusion bar, as it's difficult to get to (try bent screwdriver, slowly, slowly for that bit).

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#6 Heath

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 05:16 PM

There's a fair chance that that will come out REALLY easily. I could be wrong but I wouldn't be surprised. Definitely worth a crack at fixing it!

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#7 _urkss_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 05:49 PM

for peace of mind. hunt round for a rust free door. and then you know what you got, by the look of the damaged door, there is a fair amount of bog in it.plus how many previous coats of color and primmer on there from previous repairs. then the risk of shrinkage. my thoughts only..cheers urkss

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#8 its Paul

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 05:55 PM

I agree ^^^^^ shrinkage is a bit of a concern. :blink2:

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#9 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:00 PM

The metal having stretched is the concern, but rarely with such a big dent.

Give it a go, and if it doesn't work, get a new door. It's not going to get any worse.

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#10 _evil UC hatch_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:03 PM

I would have a crack at fixing it myself, then upon my inevetable failure find a suitable replacement :surrenderwave:

seriously though if it were me I would knock off all the bog to get a better idea of how bad it actually is before stuffing around too much

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#11 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:23 PM

If the door is rust free i'd have a go a repairing it. If you use a blunt chisel & or a couple of large flat blade screw drivers to push/gently tap around the edge of the door handle recess from inside the door you may find most of the damage will come out. There is pretty good access to that area from behind once the door trim is removed & you will be able to dress up the rest of the damage relatively easy. If you get the basic shape of the panel back by doing this, then as others have suggested, i'd remove all the old bog & see what the rest of the door is like. At least this way you have everything to gain & nothing to lose. Good panels are getting hard to find & even after paying decent coin for another door there is almost no guarentee that it won't have any less bog in it than your original one.

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#12 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:30 PM

^ Big block of wood and a good size hammer to try rough it out first, then plenish. Should just bounce out.

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#13 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:41 PM

I agree, sharpened to a point of around 10-15 & starting around the edge of the handle recess, using wood means over stretching the panel will be kept to a minimum if not avoided all together. The reason why i suggest starting around the handle recess is because it has more strength in it than the flat part of the skin, it will "pull" most of other damage out. I was taught when repairing panels, always get the lines, swages etc straight first, then move onto the flat areas.

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#14 _beergut_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 07:30 PM

ahh that shit will just buff right out!!!

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#15 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 07:47 PM

Cheers for the replies i will have a go at fixing it and if i need another door my mate who did it will pay to get another door cleaned up and painted just thought id save another door from being scrapped and try and fix it first

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#16 _evil UC hatch_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 08:26 PM

no harm in trying, at worst you will be in the same position you are now anyway

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#17 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 09:21 PM

The reason why i suggest starting around the handle recess is because it has more strength in it than the flat part of the skin, it will "pull" most of other damage out. I was taught when repairing panels, always get the lines, swages etc straight first, then move onto the flat areas.

Good point.

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#18 _beergut_

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 09:44 PM

i was told remove the direct damage and the indirect damage will follow
but yeah bash it with a hammer and a block of wood
and most of the bog will fall out anyway
and will get rid of any pent up rage you may be feeling as a bonus

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#19 rodomo

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 11:15 PM

I'm with GML-31 on this one.

Given that the door already has an un-known quantity of bog AND the new dent is complex, being around the door handle, I reckon by the time he straightens it ready to prime, 1/2 of the door skin would have filler in it being a large, flattish, panel.

It doesn't mean I wouldn't have a go at it, though probably a lot of time.

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#20 _yldlj_

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 07:45 PM

if you know what you are doing there may be the slightest chance that could be repaired but i wouldn't even waste my time on it. just get a skin for it. if you can repair that you can put a skin on and will take you way less time. the problem with your door is that it has been hit right where the handle and lock is and that will take so much time getting straight.

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#21 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 05:45 PM

Got quoted 400 to knock the dent out and repaint the area guy reckons its fixable and its easier then finding another door just need to get the cash out of my mate and it should be all sweet

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#22 _yldlj_

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:03 PM

sounds dodgy to me 400 bux is nothing thATS only 4hrs labor. and paint the area????? that whole door will have to be painted and what about blends???? surely they wont be able to do edge to edge. i think more along the lines of $1000. at my work i reckon the repair only would be $400.

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#23 _Gunmetal LH_

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 01:45 PM

Get your 'mate' to buy a new skin...

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#24 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 02:52 PM

sounds dodgy to me 400 bux is nothing thATS only 4hrs labor. and paint the area????? that whole door will have to be painted and what about blends???? surely they wont be able to do edge to edge. i think more along the lines of $1000. at my work i reckon the repair only would be $400.

I agree, we lose WRM jobs at work where we quote to blend metallics, to dodgy repairers who will go edge to edge on older cars. I agree there is easily four hours repair time in that door not to mention R&Rs, paint labour, panel consumables, paint consumables etc.

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#25 _beergut_

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 06:43 PM

ha ah yeah i spent 4 hours on my fraurd barn doors so far and they're still not right but meh is a bog and flog and they are straighter than before so f it!
but then again he may only be quoting mates rates and not charging $100 hour so might be quoting @ $50 or so