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#101 derrin71

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Posted 12 December 2010 - 08:46 PM

Castle auto electrics did the harness for me, just sent them the old commodore harness and they modified it for me. It seems they didn't use much of the original commodore wiring , they must want the harness for the connectors. I got them to modify the harness so everything goes under the dash. The wires run through the firewall behind the distributor. I just had to splice it into the original torana loom which was pretty easy with the instructions included. The only problem was they set it up for the alternator on the assengers side (forgot to tell them it was on the drivers) Wasn.t too bad only took ablut 10 mins to fix with some black insulation tape. They also replaced all of the fuses with a set of circuit breakers. I am absolutely hopeless with electricity in any form, but i have learnt heaps doing this project.

#102 Stinga

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Posted 12 December 2010 - 09:05 PM

what sort of money did it cost to get that done

#103 derrin71

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 05:36 PM

About $800 from memory.

#104 Stinga

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 01:10 PM

that sounds pretty expensive, maybe its just me. i dont imagine it would be a fun job

#105 derrin71

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 05:58 PM

As i said i have no clue when it comed to electrics, the auto electricians in town weren't even remotely interested and i wanted a quality job that i could fit to the car easily.
I was happy to pay the money they wanted.

#106 derrin71

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 04:05 PM

New e-bay purchase turned up today. New front brakes. Assembled drivers side on the old torana stub i thankfully kept. Trial fitted onto front end and checked for clearance on suspension. All seems ok.
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Should handle and stop better than HX brakes i was going to fit! And fill out the wheels a little more.
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#107 derrin71

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 05:12 PM

Started on the engine bay today, cut out the rusty piece under the passengers side bonnet hinge and rust converted the area,
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Welded a new piece in,
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and cut down the passengers side chasis rail lip and welded it up.
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#108 derrin71

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Posted 31 December 2010 - 04:02 PM

Finished smoothing out one side of the engine bay today, here are a couple of photos i took along the way.

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#109 76lxhatch

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Posted 31 December 2010 - 05:41 PM

Awesome

#110 _Kush_

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Posted 01 January 2011 - 10:25 AM

Nice!

Did you do any cutting/welding on the inner guard or did you just hammer it out?
This is the next bit I'm doing but I'm not really sure on what's the best way to go about it :)

#111 Statler

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Posted 01 January 2011 - 11:05 AM

I hope you are high & dry m8!

#112 Mort

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Posted 01 January 2011 - 11:23 AM

Good one Col :spoton:,I forgot about Derrin :DOH: , i hope you are clear of the high tide mark, it would be a shame for all that work to go to waste.

Mort

#113 derrin71

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Posted 01 January 2011 - 12:33 PM

Miles above the water where i live, (out near the airport if you know Emerald), just waiting for the water to go down then i have to go and help some people clean up, (not the best job but it has to be done!). On the inner guard i just used a hammer,dolly and a little bit of heat. Where the lump juts out towards the engine i used the heat shrinking technique to get the metal down reasonably flat.

#114 _Kush_

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Posted 01 January 2011 - 12:41 PM

Thanks Derrin, I'll give it a go :)

#115 _A9XOSS_

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Posted 01 January 2011 - 12:58 PM

looks great, was it much trouble doing the chassis trim, and would effect the strength.
i like the neat look of it, i'am up in the air to do it too. cheers colin.

#116 derrin71

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Posted 01 January 2011 - 05:33 PM

The chasis trim wasn't too hard to do.
Cut the lip off with an angle grinder.
Grind it down to almost level with the chasis rail. In some areas there will be 3 pieces of steel to weld together.
Weld along the join, you will need a clamp of some sort to hold the edges together.
Grind the weld down flat which will probably expose some splits in the rail sections.
Re-weld the join again and grind the weld down flat,
Heaps of people on this forum seem to have done this mod and no-one appears to have had any strength issues.
Maybe if you had some sort of 1000hp monster it may be a different matter.
Will make plug changes a little easier too!
Oh yeah and a rotissary makes things HEAPS easier!!!!!!

#117 derrin71

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Posted 07 February 2011 - 07:42 PM

Got the drivers side of the engine bay finished the other day, had to cut some rust out of the bonnet hinge same as the other side.
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Also started on smoothing out the centre section of the firewall, more pictures to come soon hopefully.

#118 Statler

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Posted 07 February 2011 - 07:50 PM

If you are going to cut the lip off the firewall too, just remember that when it rains the water has to go somewhere.
With a V8 onboard, the dizzy is under there.

#119 derrin71

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 05:16 PM

Made a fair bit of progress on smoothing out my firewall today. As you can see i am not mucking around with where the booster sits but i want to smooth out the rest of the firewall.
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Just a little filler to smooth things out, some primer and it should look sweet.

Edited by derrin71, 13 February 2011 - 05:18 PM.


#120 _uctorry_

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 10:28 AM

looking sweet alright
to job

#121 _uctorry_

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 10:56 AM

one question
how did u go getting 18 approved in qld???
cheers

#122 GML-31

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 11:00 AM

mate this car is another Christine i would get it exorcised....

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#123 derrin71

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 12:24 PM

one question
how did u go getting 18 approved in qld???
cheers


I have run all of my proposed mods by the guy who is going to do my QLD Transport modification late for me and he is happy with everything i am going to do.

#124 _uctorry_

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 12:29 PM

thanks for that
mite have to get myself another engineer or use urs
cheers

#125 rodomo

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 08:02 PM

mate this car is another Christine i would get it exorcised....

What are you on and where can I buy some? :mellow:




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