Cleaning a fuel tank for welding
#1 _Pete_
Posted 16 April 2006 - 11:28 PM
Anyone have any tested methods? i'm only going to be pin-pulling the damaged areas (i'm not cutting it in half etc), i've done a bit of reading here and there, some suggest washing it in dish soap others suggest doing the welding with the tank full of water, others say connect it to an exhaust of a car to fill it with carbon monoxide.
Is there places that chemically clean tanks so they're safe?
#2 _jap-xu1_
Posted 16 April 2006 - 11:33 PM
#3
Posted 17 April 2006 - 12:05 AM
#4
Posted 17 April 2006 - 06:57 AM
#5
Posted 17 April 2006 - 07:53 AM
#6
Posted 17 April 2006 - 08:54 AM
Edited by lakeside, 17 April 2006 - 08:55 AM.
#7 _jap-xu1_
Posted 17 April 2006 - 09:18 AM
#8
Posted 17 April 2006 - 10:21 AM
#9
Posted 17 April 2006 - 10:36 AM
We welded a diesel tank not 2 weeks ago....filled it with water but it draws too much heat out of the weld.
I think the best way is to fill it with CO2.
reason for explosions after many years is that fuel sits in the folded seams of the tank.
#10 _CHOPPER_
Posted 17 April 2006 - 12:28 PM
#11 _Pete_
Posted 17 April 2006 - 01:26 PM
#12 _gtr-xu1_
Posted 17 April 2006 - 01:54 PM
#13
Posted 17 April 2006 - 03:15 PM
Never had a problem and have done it numerous times.
#14
Posted 17 April 2006 - 03:18 PM
#15 _smelvin_
Posted 17 April 2006 - 05:58 PM
#16
Posted 17 April 2006 - 06:29 PM
Seen the price of fuel lately, its cheaper to get the tank flushed then run a car for 1/2 an hour.I welded a fuel tank just the other day, rinsed out with water then put it over the exhaust pipe of a running car for 20-30 min. (so exhaust can run through it).
Never had a problem and have done it numerous times.
I recommend getting the tank flushed by a radiator mob, for 3 reasons.
1 its cheap
2 they remove all the dirt and shit thats been sitting in the tank the last 30 years
3 whats your life worth $100 for a flush or less?
I keep saying this, with cars theres 2 things you dont skimp out or mess around with, FUEL and BRAKES, do them right and forget about the cost, these 2 MAJOR things are carrying your life.
#17 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 17 April 2006 - 06:40 PM
Just my 10cents worth here. People may have done/tried various things, however, the fact that they are here writing up their method on the forum is no guarantee that the method is safe, though I�m not claiming any of the above techniques are dangerous.
Personally, I�d be getting someone else to do the work as I am simply not sure of the possibilities that could occur.
I believe welding does take place on petrol tankers etc, would be good to find out for sure what methods are used.
Here are just some thoughts/comments on the suggestions so far:
MIG bottle? The IG, loosely stands for Inert Gases, however, using them beyond their intended use... as fire extinguishers etc could be asking for trouble. The composition of what's in the bottle should be established 1st. The gases vary depending on application, up to 4% O2 in some cases. 4% is "probably" going to remove the chance of combustion, but wouldn�t be the best thing to be using.
Using commercial grade CO2 would be effective, heavier than O2 and would be the cheapest available oxygen displacing non flammable gas (wont call it inert as it's not chemically inert). Argon would be an effective inert gas to use, but expensive.
Running the engine exhaust through it while you are doing it? Shouldn�t be much oxygen there, but heating it will vaporise what ever fuel has embedded it from the seals etc.
Large flow of air through tank (for an hour or so and while doing the welding might be safe) after emptying and rinsing with deter and water would be ok if no CO2 available ie sticking a leaf blower into the filler).
Edited by devilsadvocate, 17 April 2006 - 06:45 PM.
#18 _smelvin_
Posted 17 April 2006 - 07:05 PM
#19 _torana_
Posted 17 April 2006 - 07:25 PM
I know i wouldnt be risking my life for a $100 bucks ( or whatever it costs to buy a second hand tank)
cheers julian
#20
Posted 17 April 2006 - 08:51 PM
#21 _Pete_
Posted 17 April 2006 - 10:08 PM
but as with most things in life, you can not get all my years of engineering experience from a forum. If in doubt, pay someone to do it for you.
You've obviously just finished reading the book "How to win friends and influence people" hey smelvin?...hehe....i'll keep an eye for any of your posts when there's something your interested in finding out and I may be able to help out with
buy a second hank tank from the wreckers
I'm not repairing a torana fuel tank here, and unfortunately there has never been a time in history where you can buy these fuel tanks from your local wrecker.
Like FastEH has said the pin-pulling machine I'll be using isnt like a mig etc where i'll be penetrating the steel, all this does it use the smallest of tacks to pull the dent out and in the same motion it unpicks the weld. I'm confident that I'm taking the necessary precautions I just thought i'd ask for suggestions in case someone had a method that i hadn't heard of.
Thanks guys, except smelvin.....hahahaha
#22 _munro_
Posted 20 April 2006 - 01:05 AM
if it has petrol fumes no more dent in the tank
if it doesn't then you'll have to do some work
tom
#23 _CHOPPER_
Posted 20 April 2006 - 07:06 PM
#24 _dave720gtr_
Posted 20 April 2006 - 07:32 PM
SMELVIN this is the way its done^^^^^^^^^I am a professional, eg. I take your money to weld. Nitrogen is most cost effective purging gas, but as with most things in life, you can not get all my years of engineering experience from a forum. If in doubt, pay someone to do it for you.
purg with mig gas or noz is good to
#25
Posted 21 April 2006 - 02:24 AM
The LEL for diesel fuel is typically 3.5% by volume and the UEL is 6.9%; ie, a higher LEL and a smaller range than petrol
So both are quite limited when you really look at it
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