Hispec are OK
I've only ever seen them used on little cars like Diahatsu rally cars though
They have some great innovations like 4 pot calipers with handbrake built into 1 piston
Haven't had a play with them up close lately though
They had some issues a few years ago where they sacked all the staff and started again
I spoke to the owner on the phone about supply issues they were having cause I waited 4 mths for a pair of calipers for a VR4 Galant
They have probably improved
They were cheapish too I recall
330mm Brakes
Started by
its Paul
, Apr 05 2010 07:28 PM
42 replies to this topic
#26
dattoman
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Posted 09 April 2010 - 09:37 AM
#27
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 09 April 2010 - 09:46 PM
hey mervex
spot on.they are made overseas.if i gave the impression he made them in sorry.i kept pushing him for a brand,when i was buying.he keep saying they were made overseas custom for him.they were on a lot of his
customers rally cars,i spoke to a few owners who were running them,all of them loved them compared to what they were running before
if u can shed some light on where these things come from please do.
pistion sizes have long since been forgotten. if u are desperate ill ring him and ask
they are also available in 4 spot.i was tempted but wanted to be able to put a 16 inch rim on.4 spots would have meant min 17 inch rim min.plus the extra money i didnt have
Are these from that guy that sells the Brake Kits on Ebay??, if not how much did you pay for these 6 spot calipers?= ive still not upgraded my stock brakes! and was looking at hopper stoppers but now looking for more info on these, but dont want any fitting issues= any help appreciated
Edited by 76S.L.R, 09 April 2010 - 09:48 PM.
#28
_ass308_
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Posted 10 April 2010 - 08:19 AM
76S.L.R.there not that cheap.i spent around $5000 for the front and rear brakes complete.ring penrith brake and clutch.ask to speak to mark
i doubt u can get them off ebay.if u want to use them,u will need to copy my front end setup.all the brackets are custom made in house,and he knows the specs on mine.
otherwise he will need your front end,and have to start from scratch.
some will say $5000 for brakes is a lot,i dont think so.its possible to spend much more than that, and after spending at least 4 times that on a paint job,and owning a expensive classic car,its cheap insurance
how are those brembos going paul ?
i doubt u can get them off ebay.if u want to use them,u will need to copy my front end setup.all the brackets are custom made in house,and he knows the specs on mine.
otherwise he will need your front end,and have to start from scratch.
some will say $5000 for brakes is a lot,i dont think so.its possible to spend much more than that, and after spending at least 4 times that on a paint job,and owning a expensive classic car,its cheap insurance
how are those brembos going paul ?
#29
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Posted 10 April 2010 - 04:05 PM
Still in the box mate 
Been playing with the interior, Dynamat, roof lining, top of the door trims and pinch weld.
I'll get to those tomorrow, It looks like I have achieved something today
Been playing with the interior, Dynamat, roof lining, top of the door trims and pinch weld.I'll get to those tomorrow, It looks like I have achieved something today
#30
antelopeslr5000
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Posted 10 April 2010 - 04:32 PM
They look like VE calipers to me
I'm not a fan of this guys kits... thats widely known
Its not uncommon to notch the upper arm for some clearance
Strangely though this larger caliper fits no dramas on a Torana spindle with 330 disc (thinner caliper though)
I believe Phil is running 2" drop stub axles, not standard Torana spindles.
#31
dattoman
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Posted 10 April 2010 - 04:36 PM
I believe your right
So therefor ethe caliper would be closer to the top arm yes ?
Dave.... 355LX
Lets see yours... same caliper and disc...I think he's on Torana stubs ?
So therefor ethe caliper would be closer to the top arm yes ?
Dave.... 355LX
Lets see yours... same caliper and disc...I think he's on Torana stubs ?
#32
_UNVSM8_
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Posted 10 April 2010 - 06:06 PM
I bought this ebay kit myself and have just finnished hooking it up! they work great way way better stopping power than my old brakes (standard uc)! however yes they do fowl when going for full lock! when the car is on the ground it actually hits the upper control arm? first not that lump thing.. (calipers rearward as recommended)
when it hits this the other side is approximately 1.5cm away from hitting the full lock stopper..
i rang the guy and he made it seem like this was common and its solved by chopping at the rest of the suspension lol
so tomorrow iam going to attempt to cut abit away to make more clearance and see what happens hopefully it will all be sweet.
Ben
when it hits this the other side is approximately 1.5cm away from hitting the full lock stopper..
i rang the guy and he made it seem like this was common and its solved by chopping at the rest of the suspension lol
so tomorrow iam going to attempt to cut abit away to make more clearance and see what happens hopefully it will all be sweet.
Ben
#33
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Posted 10 April 2010 - 07:26 PM
Hi Ben, so yours is the 330kit and you have HX stubs?
Are you able to post photos of the front and rear, full lock to full lock.
Also if you do happen to cut the UCA can you post photos please.
The kit looks fine, the only problem is sorting out the clearance issues, which I expected there to be some, once this is sorted I'm sure they will be brilliant compared to standard.
How�s that for positive thinking...
Paul.
Are you able to post photos of the front and rear, full lock to full lock.
Also if you do happen to cut the UCA can you post photos please.
The kit looks fine, the only problem is sorting out the clearance issues, which I expected there to be some, once this is sorted I'm sure they will be brilliant compared to standard.
How�s that for positive thinking...
Paul.
#34
_ass308_
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Posted 10 April 2010 - 07:50 PM
i cant see how cutting anything to fit brakes is a good thing
brakes should be made to fit suspensions,not the other way around.
brakes should be made to fit suspensions,not the other way around.
#35
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Posted 11 April 2010 - 12:20 PM
lx8vd77 im pretty sure mine are standard stubs so dont know if that would make much difference.. i will get some pictures for you anyway
Ben
Ben
#36
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 11 April 2010 - 08:32 PM
Well after reading all this I think I'll opt with my first plan and go with the Hopper Stoppers Kit!...........
#37
A9X
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Posted 11 April 2010 - 09:07 PM
Dave.... 355LX
Lets see yours... same caliper and disc...I think he's on Torana stubs ?
Dave has my spare a9x stubs
#38
dattoman
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Posted 11 April 2010 - 10:22 PM
But are they on the car ?
#39
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Posted 13 April 2010 - 07:32 PM
for extra clearance cut off the corner of the crossmember were the lower bumpstop hits, then plate it back up. remove the bumpstop from lower control arm. fit a couple od swaybar drop link bushes to the shock shaft. easy mod to do sounds harder than it is. also use a hammer and knock in bout 10mm the top control arm were the caliper bleed nipple might hit. dont winge bout this sounds doggy, engineers have looked at what i`ve done and they have been fine with it.
this is for ap 4 spot calipers 330mm rotors, hx stub axles. with these stub axles. get the harrop a9x steering arms when using these stubs as it helps with bump steer.
hope this info helps. if your doing track work, it is really worth the trouble, ther awesome.
this is for ap 4 spot calipers 330mm rotors, hx stub axles. with these stub axles. get the harrop a9x steering arms when using these stubs as it helps with bump steer.
hope this info helps. if your doing track work, it is really worth the trouble, ther awesome.
#40
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Posted 14 April 2010 - 08:37 PM
ozyozyozy, can you post photos of what you have done, just to give me a clearer understanding.
Chris (ASS308), I don't particularly want too cut the UCA, but am interested in what others who have used these brakes have done or any ideas people have.
Mate, if all else fails, there is a proven system that works well from a couple of guys in penrith
Ben (UNVSM8), how did you go with those photos???
76S.L.R, as far as fitting issues goes you have to expect them to a point, What I am trying to do is go biggest possible brakes, smallest possible price, the tight ass approach
Chris (ASS308), I don't particularly want too cut the UCA, but am interested in what others who have used these brakes have done or any ideas people have.
Mate, if all else fails, there is a proven system that works well from a couple of guys in penrith
Ben (UNVSM8), how did you go with those photos???
76S.L.R, as far as fitting issues goes you have to expect them to a point, What I am trying to do is go biggest possible brakes, smallest possible price, the tight ass approach
#42
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Posted 18 April 2010 - 12:21 PM
ill try see what i can send, have probs sending photos. the photos i do have dont show enough of the detail so il take some more and try send it to you.
#43
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 18 April 2010 - 01:14 PM
Someone on the forum modified the upper control arm for caliper clearance by continuing the folded edge up to the ball joint. They posted pictures on the forum but I can not find them.
The offset ball joint on the UC upper control arm is adding to the clearance problem. Switching to LH/LX upper control arms would improve the clearance.
The offset ball joint on the UC upper control arm is adding to the clearance problem. Switching to LH/LX upper control arms would improve the clearance.
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