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Repairing Fuel Tanks


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#1 _APL_

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 01:29 PM

The LJ Torana developed a tiny leak in the top RH corner near the breather outlet.
I plan to buy the Por 15 repair kit, which is a three part procedure.

Has anyone used it and what are your thoughts??

Also any ideas blocking the holes...IE:- Bungs for filler and sender unit points.

Cheers


APL

#2 _shep jnr_

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 02:56 PM

The LJ Torana developed a tiny leak in the top RH corner near the breather outlet.
I plan to buy the Por 15 repair kit, which is a three part procedure.

Has anyone used it and what are your thoughts??

Also any ideas blocking the holes...IE:- Bungs for filler and sender unit points.

Cheers


APL



Hi . my grandfather is a plumber and he is gunna silver solder my tank. its in the same spot..

#3 MRLXSS

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 03:37 PM

Just fill it with fuel and Arc weld the sucker! It's only the vapour that'll go BANG!!!

LOL














Just kidding, no idea! Silver solder as above maybe?

#4 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 08:16 PM

Silver solder makes a permanent repair but you have to know what you are doing to do it safely. I recently ss'd a patch on my young blokes HZ tank. Basically you have to wash the tank out thoroughly with water and detergent and then purge any remaining vapour with an inert gas like co2. Once this is done you loosely cap any openings to trap the co2 (or whatever you used) while you make the repair. If you find you need to make a 2nd attempt (if there is still a pinhole for example) then you need to repeat the whole procedure.
If there is any doubt whatsoever that you can thoroughly purge all the vapour then DON"T DO IT!
Take it to your local radiator bloke instead of risking a big bang.

#5 _APL_

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 05:43 PM

Silver solder makes a permanent repair but you have to know what you are doing to do it safely. I recently ss'd a patch on my young blokes HZ tank. Basically you have to wash the tank out thoroughly with water and detergent and then purge any remaining vapour with an inert gas like co2. Once this is done you loosely cap any openings to trap the co2 (or whatever you used) while you make the repair. If you find you need to make a 2nd attempt (if there is still a pinhole for example) then you need to repeat the whole procedure.
If there is any doubt whatsoever that you can thoroughly purge all the vapour then DON"T DO IT!
Take it to your local radiator bloke instead of risking a big bang.

Thanks for that oldjonno....

People that I have spoken with are reluctant to carry out the repairs.
A small hole on the outside of the tank does not vouch for the integrity on the inside.

As I understand the Por 15 Repair kit is a 3 parts procedure:

Cleaner
Etcher
Coating

This in my opinion may be the better course of action, but was wondering if anyone else has used it.


Cheers


APL

#6 mr5000

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 06:08 PM

theres this stuff called selleys knead it all ya do is chop it nkead it then stuff it into the hole and let it set
i would personall be going for a more permanent fix than that if you are going to weld it tip i got from my trade school teacher its get a big of vacuum cleaner hose and pipe it to the filler neck that way it wont go bang obviously clean it out as said in one of the above posts

#7 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 07:20 PM

if you are going to weld it tip i got from my trade school teacher its get a big of vacuum cleaner hose and pipe it to the filler neck that way it wont go bang obviously clean it out as said in one of the above posts


PLEASE don't do this! Your trade school teacher is an idiot. Usually the airflow thru a vacuum cleaner passes through the motor to cool it once it's been through the filter/bag. Fumes from the tank + sparks from the brushes might be exciting. Testing a carburetor that hasn't been completely emptied on a flowbench can result in similarly spectacular results.
You can flush as much air thru it as you like but it will never really be safe until you replace all that oxygen with something inert like co2.
Please don't frOck with this stuff fellas, too many people have been hurt over the years because they didn't know what they were doing..

#8 xu1kid

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 08:20 PM

my tank has a pin hole and the tank hasnt been in the car or had petrol in it for over 14 years its bone dry do these rules still apply

#9 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 05:44 AM

my tank has a pin hole and the tank hasnt been in the car or had petrol in it for over 14 years its bone dry do these rules still apply


As unlikely as it is that there would be any trace of fuel left after 14 years I'd still use the same procedure.

#10 warrenm

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 07:47 AM

I haven't used the POR15 product, but have used the KBS Coatings, which uses the same type of product. The tank in the LJ was leaking in the same place as described above plus a few more, used the product last August with no leaks so far.

#11 mr5000

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 08:27 AM


if you are going to weld it tip i got from my trade school teacher its get a big of vacuum cleaner hose and pipe it to the filler neck that way it wont go bang obviously clean it out as said in one of the above posts


PLEASE don't do this! Your trade school teacher is an idiot. Usually the airflow thru a vacuum cleaner passes through the motor to cool it once it's been through the filter/bag. Fumes from the tank + sparks from the brushes might be exciting. Testing a carburetor that hasn't been completely emptied on a flowbench can result in similarly spectacular results.
You can flush as much air thru it as you like but it will never really be safe until you replace all that oxygen with something inert like co2.
Please don't frOck with this stuff fellas, too many people have been hurt over the years because they didn't know what they were doing..

woops sorry forgot to say atach othe end of pipe to a running cars exhuast NOt the vaccum cleaner

#12 TerrA LX

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 08:51 AM

Radiator repair shops repair fuel tanks.
They de gas by washing them out then running a car exhaust thru them.
They then soldier the holes up.

If you plan to keep the tank forever this may be the go followed up with the por 15 to seal the inside.

#13 Statler

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 09:18 AM

Radiator repair shops repair fuel tanks.
They de gas by washing them out then running a car exhaust thru them.
They then soldier the holes up.

If you plan to keep the tank forever this may be the go followed up with the por 15 to seal the inside.

Interesting.
After consulting ALL of the radiator places in my town, none of them are allowed to repair fuel tanks anymore.

#14 TerrA LX

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 09:23 AM

Ok sorry, been 20yrs since I worked at one. Maybe work cover changed the rules.
Easy enough job to do yourself tho.

#15 _sshatch355_

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 12:10 PM

i had my tank done the other day and it is now law in sa that the tank has to be sent to some place to be cleaned before any welding can be done it costs $80.00 for the tank wash then whatever the welding costs this was through greens welding 83494888 there down by city dismantlers

#16 71xu1

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 12:13 PM

The por 15 stuff is the way to go if you must repair your tank make sure you follow the instructions to the tee it works great. However I would not recommend welding the tank yourself if you don't know exactly what you are doing. I have experience in repairing tanks and I don't do it any more not worth the risk if you can buy a replacement tank. A new tank for an LJ now is only about $650. The kit from por 15 will cost you $120. I know it's all money but is it really worth the risk? On a side note I had some tank repair left when I repaired the last tank and I poured it into an old leaking galvanised bucket it sealed the pinholes up and has been left sitting outside in the rain etc full of water off an on and that was about two years ago. Amazing stuff.

Cheers Dave

#17 blake

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 08:04 PM

im not too familiar with the POR 15 stuff or what it includes , but i had the same problem on my torana as APL did. We had some of this 'liquid metal' stuff that is coated in plastic the same as new blu tac, you then pull back the tape, apply the metal to the leaking spot and it sets. if your good you can then file it, rub it, then polish it up, its very good.

cheers Blake

#18 _robrenjus_

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 09:54 PM

can anyone verify whether or not it is legal or illegal for radiator mobs (or anyone else for that matter)to repair or modify fuel tanks ?? sounds like crap to me and i just had my radiator guy clean and neutralize the vapours in a caustic soda bath and solder a vp swirl pot /fuel pump into my lx tank charged me 100 bucks check it outPosted Image

#19 TerrA LX

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 10:44 PM

Workcover 131 050.

#20 wot179

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 11:02 PM

can anyone verify whether or not it is legal or illegal for radiator mobs (or anyone else for that matter)to repair or modify fuel tanks ?? sounds like crap to me and i just had my radiator guy clean and neutralize the vapours in a caustic soda bath and solder a vp swirl pot /fuel pump into my lx tank charged me 100 bucks check it outPosted Image


looks like youve cut through your breather.

#21 _robrenjus_

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 07:18 AM

yep that pipe is now a foot shorter ...i am just hoping i dont have too many issues when filling the tank!!!

#22 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 10:59 AM

The main purpose of the three breather pipes connected to the liquid vapour separator are to handle fuel expansion and vapour control. The breather running from the back of the tank to the filler neck is the filling breather.

The breather that has been cut is there so when the car is parked nose down the two front breathers will be submersed but the third breather will be clear.

If all breathers connected to the liquid vapour separator are submerged and the tank is full then when the fuel expands it will be pushed into the charcoal cannister. Many drop tanks do not have the rear breather and push fuel out the charcoal cannister on a hot day.

Posted Image

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 16 April 2010 - 11:04 AM.


#23 _1uzbt1_

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 03:57 PM

.
[/quote]
Interesting.
After consulting ALL of the radiator places in my town, none of them are allowed to repair fuel tanks anymore.
[/quote]


We used to solder them up but decided in the end the risk outweight the profit, whether it was legal for us to do it im not sure.

For what its worth, we used the old soldering irons you had to heat with a blow torch and then proceeded to solder them up that way.There is no direct flame with this method btu was alittle time consuming.

#24 _Torana308_

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 09:09 PM

I used the KBS kit to repair my LJ tank a little while ago. Kept getting pin holes in the bottom of the tank, every time I had it soldered up, it leaked from somewhere different.

Since using the KBS kit there are no leaks at all from it finally. Wouldn't use it to fix a big leak though.




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