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LC Torana brake / wheel upgrade


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#26 dattoman

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 02:39 AM

Now before you do anything else

Put the calipers on the correct side of the car so the bleeder are at the top

That caliper is designed to have the bleeder at the top but pointing down unlike normal calipers that have the bleeder at the top pointing straight out or up

Common mistake...

Then you will find your hoses come out in a different spot... so do this before anything else

#27 ribz0

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 12:41 PM

Now before you do anything else

Put the calipers on the correct side of the car so the bleeder are at the top

Common mistake...

Then you will find your hoses come out in a different spot... so do this before anything else


Hi dattoman

Thanks for that!! For the life of me I just couldn't remember which way they went! Looking at it now, yes it stands out!! This looks much better and the brake lines line up great to the torrie ones there. The thing that got me was the way the bleed nipple was facing.

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You can see the brake line to the right where it will connect up on the car.

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Thanks again.

#28 S pack

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 06:43 PM

Dave, I have another one for you.

Just been tinkering and had a look at the steering arms. Not even close to the numbers you said the LC should have so god knows what I have!! The number on one of the steering arms is M8528. Have not got to the other one yet. Can you tell me what this is off please?

Things have progressed well and will post up soon.

Eric


G/day Eric

Sorry mate, I don't know that steering arm part No. It looks like possibly LH/LX or UC maybe. As the brakes you took off were LH or early LX my guess would be a LH/LX steering arm. I believe from reading other threads that the tie rod end on LH/LX insert from above where as LC/LJ tie rod ends insert from below. Best to put LC/LJ steering arms on your shopping list.
Maybe you could try posting a pic and that part No. in the LH - UC forum and see what answers you get.

Cheers
Dave.

#29 ribz0

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 11:38 PM

Hi Dave

Thanks anyway. I'm not having much luck with my "LJ" front end am I? lol... Yes, will add to the list but will keep going with what I have. Got a few places to look but we all know how hard they are to find.

Eric

#30 ribz0

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Posted 05 May 2010 - 12:11 AM

Hi all

I changed the master cylinder over with the HJ one.

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I had a cast iron master cylinder on the LC which has a shorter push rod coming out of the booster.

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Swapped these push rods over, a quick check measure and all seems good. The only other thing I had to do was shorten the rear brake line to the proportion valve. Can someone tell me, is the proportion valve fixed to a bracket that is bolted to the upper control arm blots? A pic would be great if anyone can help out please? Cant see it in the manual.

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#31 S pack

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Posted 05 May 2010 - 12:49 AM

Hi all

The only other thing I had to do was shorten the rear brake line to the proportion valve. Can someone tell me, is the proportion valve fixed to a bracket that is bolted to the upper control arm blots? A pic would be great if anyone can help out please? Cant see it in the manual.

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G/day Eric

Good to see it all coming together.
The proportioning valve bolts to the side of the chassis rail, however your LC doesn't appear to have the hole in the rail. Must be a very early production LC.
One of my older brothers had a very early production LC 82311, as far as I can remember it had some sort of bracket to hold the valve.
Can't post a pic of the LJ chassis rail just yet but will as soon as I can and also give you dimensions for position of hole.
Just need to drill a hole and use a heavy gauge self tapper or if you have access to a nutsert tool would be better.
Also in your pic it looks like you have got the front brake line from the master cylinder connected to the rear brakes on the proportioning valve and vise versa.



Cheers
Dave

#32 ribz0

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Posted 05 May 2010 - 10:03 AM

Hi Dave

Thanks for that, a pic will be great when you get there! Yes, the HJ has a bracket which bolts onto the top control arm. I can screw it to the chassis rail also so will see which will be better.

As for the brake lines, the HJ has this set up and had crossed lines as well. I used the torrie lines as the HJ lines puts the valve to far forward. I have noticed that other master cylinders I have are a mix of big fitting (larger pipe fitting nut). Some are at the front and some are the rear of the master cylinder.

All I can do is copy what was on the HJ. I know it all worked on that car. Any info would be great as I am no expert!!

Thanks
Eric

#33 76lxhatch

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Posted 05 May 2010 - 11:32 AM

If that's the way it was then it will most likely be correct, there are a few master cylinders around that are backwards (unfortunately they reversed the fittings as well which makes life difficult). As long as the bigger reservoir in the master goes to the front of the proportioning valve it will be right.

#34 ribz0

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Posted 05 May 2010 - 12:34 PM

As long as the bigger reservoir in the master goes to the front of the proportioning valve it will be right.


Thanks for that.

Yes, the bigger pot is at the rear of the master cylinder, which then needs to cross to the front of the proportion valve.

The old one that came off the torrie was the other way around.

Eric

#35 ribz0

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Posted 05 May 2010 - 04:52 PM

I did a bit of work on the rear brakes today.

I had to grind the backing plate so the wheel bearing would fit through it.

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It didn't need much so it was a quick job. I also loosened off the handbrake cables as they need to reach more to attach to the brake shoes.

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So far so good. All brake lines matched up and it wasn't too much of a hassle. I won't speak too soon yet. lol.. Just waiting for the axles so have some time to keep going with re-painting the GTS rims and clean / paint all the bits I pulled off, grinded and modified.

#36 S pack

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Posted 05 May 2010 - 09:16 PM

G/day Eric

The measurements are as close as I could make out but may not be exact to the last 1/2 millimetre.
There is a thin threaded metal plate welded behind the hole for the bolt to screw into.

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Hope this helps.
Cheers
Dave.

#37 ribz0

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 08:19 PM

Hi Dave

Thanks very much for that!!! Gives me a good idea where it goes. I'm sure I will be able to thread something for it.

I have found a set of steering arms and a LHS stub axle too!!

Eric

#38 ribz0

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 02:25 PM

Hi all

Well I got hold of the correct steering arms and boy, they are very different!

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The top one is off an LC. Don't know what the bottom one is off.

Don't matter now, getting closer to what it should be anyway. Just cleaning and painting and yes, still waiting for the axles.

Changed that rouge left hand stub axle as well so all LC torrie stuff fitted now.

Edited by ribz0, 13 May 2010 - 02:25 PM.


#39 S pack

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Posted 14 May 2010 - 01:19 AM

Geat stuff Eric

I am sure the bottom steering arm looks like LH/LX Torana.
I am very interested to find out what you think of the whole conversion when it's finished and how much improved your brakes are.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers
Dave.

#40 ribz0

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Posted 14 May 2010 - 10:02 PM

Thanks Dave

I have no doubt that there will be improvement, especially after finding out that I may of had steering issues with what I had! I am sure the improvement will be substantial and look forward to taking it for a blat down the road!

There is still a long way to go before the car is finished as I have just started the rebuild, you cant rush these things. After I can confirm the brakes are all good, then I will start on the paint job.

Lots more posts to add and lots to find out.

Eric

#41 ribz0

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 01:47 PM

Hi all

Well I got the right steering arms (very different to what were on there) and changed the LH stub axle. Had to grind a little more off the caliper mount but not too much due to the shape of the correct steering arms.

All together again and all looks good.

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Took the lower control arms off and gave them a clean up and paint as well as the rear brake backing plates. New set of front and rear springs to go in and yes, still waiting for axles.

Little steps....

Eric

#42 _Gav73_

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 08:54 PM

I bet you cant wait to see the end of those brakes, I suppose when ya bolt ya GTS wheels on it will be well worth it. Good job mate.
Cheers Gav

Edited by Gav73, 20 May 2010 - 08:55 PM.


#43 ribz0

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 11:00 PM

I bet you cant wait to see the end of those brakes, I suppose when ya bolt ya GTS wheels on it will be well worth it. Good job mate.
Cheers Gav


Hi Gav

Yep, cant wait!! It has been great so far and have learned lots thanks to everyone on here! I had to get two of my GTS rim outer's replaced cause I wasn't happy with how they ended up after I cleaned them. Had too much pitting around the rim so wasn't sure if the tyre would seal properly.

So waiting for axles and rims now but have plenty to keep going on with.

Thanks and will keep updating as I move on.

Eric

#44 ribz0

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Posted 26 May 2010 - 02:40 PM

Another step closer! Put the front brakes back on and all is good! New bearings, brake pads and caliper kit.

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Another job is to get the steering rack sorted. I'm having a blast doing this! finally fixing things that have needed doing for a long time!!

I got my rims back so I will get some paint on them next days off. I had to get some new outer's fitted to them as I was not happy with the pitting on them. Wasn't sure if the Tyre would seal.

Still no axles....

Edited by ribz0, 26 May 2010 - 02:44 PM.


#45 ribz0

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 06:24 PM

Got my rims done today and they turned out pretty good.

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Axles are ready!!!! YaHoo!!!! Run out of time these days off so will have to pick them up next week. Will post how they look. Really looking forward to getting them.

#46 ribz0

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Posted 11 June 2010 - 03:19 PM

Hi all

Well, what can I say? Absolutely fantastic!!!!

Got my axles back and all went together very nice!! Happy with how the rims fitted and filling up the guards really nice. :rockon:

Still got the steering rack out of it so not had a chance to see how it all goes. (stops :spoton:)

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Still need to do the rack, rear springs and shockies front and rear. A set of center caps for the rims will finish it all off!

Thanks for all your comments and help. Will let you know how it stops when I get the steering rack sorted.

#47 gtrboyy

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Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:08 PM

Did you have any issues with the caliper touching the radius rod on full lock?

Mine touch,full lock with the car up on jack stands.

#48 ribz0

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Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:49 PM

Did you have any issues with the caliper touching the radius rod on full lock?

Mine touch,full lock with the car up on jack stands.



I got the steering rack out at the moment so not sure. The tyre hits the rod on full right/left hand without the rack but would think the steering rack wont go that far. (I hope) I cant see that the calipers will hit anywhere. I'm running the same tyres as I did before and had no issues with rubbing. I am keen to try it all out when I get the rack done. Will let you know.

Edited by ribz0, 11 June 2010 - 10:54 PM.


#49 gtrboyy

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Posted 12 June 2010 - 12:35 PM

Yep had the same thing with the 205 wide tyres on vk rims hitting radius rod also..expected that but not the bottom of the caliper bracket to touch the radius rod..only does it with car on jack stands with the suspension on full droop,full lock of the steering not sure how to fix it yet.

Other than that I'll have to change to a different brand top ball joint,wheel weights inside the vk rim touch,might get the offset changed if I can resolve the caliper issue.

#50 ribz0

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Posted 12 June 2010 - 11:24 PM

Yep had the same thing with the 205 wide tyres on vk rims

Other than that I'll have to change to a different brand top ball joint,wheel weights inside the vk rim touch,might get the offset changed if I can resolve the caliper issue.


What stubs are you running? I kept the LC stubs. The commodore rims have a deep offset don't they? Maybe another set of rims will sort the rubbing issue but then you will have a wider track which will cause other issues. I'm running 185 tyres so nothing to extreme and all seems ok.




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