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converting a red 308 to injection


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#1 _tyre fryer_

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 03:46 PM

Hey guys, I'm weighing up my options of either rebuilding a red motor and putting all the injection gear on or just throwing an injected 5l.
What's involved, I understand you'd have to block off the mech. fuel pump attatchment, and replace with an electric pump (or two?).
Do the lifters or pushrods need to be changed? anything else?

#2 _Herne_

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 04:03 PM

Hey guys, I'm weighing up my options of either rebuilding a red motor and putting all the injection gear on or just throwing an injected 5l.
What's involved, I understand you'd have to block off the mech. fuel pump attatchment, and replace with an electric pump (or two?).
Do the lifters or pushrods need to be changed? anything else?


EFI Cam and new lifters, EFI heads, exhaust manifold to suit EFI, inlet manifold if you dont have the bananas already. Best to run with a surge tank. You need to look at changing the throttle cable to suit or modifying the one you have. All rubber fuel lines need to be replaced with EFI and also the clips. Probably more but that's what comes to mind for the moment.

Herne

#3 _greenmachine215_

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 03:47 AM

To go the efi path, Theres not a hell of alot involved.

Basically you can block off your fuel pump hole Or just purchase a VN 5.0l Timing cover, Get an engine harness from a 5.0L with All the bits.
pretty much what herne said,

FUEL Setup you'd run a efi filter to lift pump to surge tank to EFI Pump.
You can keep your steel fuel lines under the car, just run efi rated fuel hose where it needs to be run.
On the return you'd put your fuel regulator, then return line into the surge tank, and run an overflow from surge back into the fuel tank.

Top end EFI Heads and manifold of choice, depending what your plans are for the work done to the engine You might want to do bigger injectors Or just leave them stock.

Exhaust just get efi headed extractors and new system bent up. Depending on how much you give a shit depends if you run cats or not.

probly the Hardest part about converting to fuel injection would be the wiring side of things, Everything else is easier than some say.If its a relitavely stock build It shouldnt cost you a packet and you'll be able to cruise peace of mind knowing youve got something reliable under the bonnet.

cam and lifters shouldnt make a difference if its to suit efi, Hydraulic or solid, its all down to the mapping of the ecu.


Im running an aggressive solid cam in my 355 VK Block, has all the efi gear uptop. If your going to spend the money on doing a tuff injected motor Then dont cheap out on a ECU RE-MAP. Spend the few hundred extra and go with something like a haltech. theres alot more they can do with them, including multiple map tunes. well worth the investment.

I Dont think ill go back to carby town in a hurry. :burnout:

#4 76lxhatch

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 06:04 AM

Then dont cheap out on a ECU RE-MAP. Spend the few hundred extra and go with something like a haltech. theres alot more they can do with them, including multiple map tunes. well worth the investment.

That all depends on the tools and ability of the tuner. It may well be cost saving in the long run to go to aftermarket computer if your tuner is more competent with a particular brand, but the factory ECUs are extremely flexible and can do all sorts of stuff very well.

#5 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 02:23 PM

Another thing to consider is Red 308s have smaller chamber heads, so fitting larger chamber VN heads will drop the compression. I'd go with the VN-VS engine if you don't want the expense of a rebuild. Also VN-VS run electric speedos, so if you want to retain your factory cable driven one, you'll need a Speed Signal Sensor & modded cable to suit. Or, you can run an aftermaket electric one.

#6 _Herne_

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 02:36 PM

Another thing to consider is Red 308s have smaller chamber heads, so fitting larger chamber VN heads will drop the compression. I'd go with the VN-VS engine if you don't want the expense of a rebuild. Also VN-VS run electric speedos, so if you want to retain your factory cable driven one, you'll need a Speed Signal Sensor & modded cable to suit. Or, you can run an aftermaket electric one.


Good point :) I knew there were things I had forgotten about :) Been while since we did mine with the 253. :spoton:

Herne

#7 _tyre fryer_

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 03:52 PM

Sounds like I'll go the 304, the one I'm looking at is 130,000ks so it might be relatively fresh. speedo? i thought the output for speedos was on the gearbox?

#8 _niterida_

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 09:52 PM


Then dont cheap out on a ECU RE-MAP. Spend the few hundred extra and go with something like a haltech. theres alot more they can do with them, including multiple map tunes. well worth the investment.

That all depends on the tools and ability of the tuner. It may well be cost saving in the long run to go to aftermarket computer if your tuner is more competent with a particular brand, but the factory ECUs are extremely flexible and can do all sorts of stuff very well.


Just get your factory ECU modded with KALMAKER software - allows factory ECU to be tuned like an aftermarket one and factory ECU is a lot better for a street driven car.

#9 76lxhatch

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 09:59 PM

speedo? i thought the output for speedos was on the gearbox?

Yes but the ECU requires a speed input which is taken care of by a sensor driven off the gearbox, so if you want to retain the cable driven speedo as well then you need some method of driving both the sensor and the cable.

Just get your factory ECU modded with KALMAKER software - allows factory ECU to be tuned like an aftermarket one and factory ECU is a lot better for a street driven car.

The factory ECU can be reprogrammed with a simple chip change regardless of what software you use, Kalmaker and some others use a copy protection mechanism that means you can be up for more expense each time you want to change it.

#10 _niterida_

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 10:15 PM


speedo? i thought the output for speedos was on the gearbox?

Yes but the ECU requires a speed input which is taken care of by a sensor driven off the gearbox, so if you want to retain the cable driven speedo as well then you need some method of driving both the sensor and the cable.

Just get your factory ECU modded with KALMAKER software - allows factory ECU to be tuned like an aftermarket one and factory ECU is a lot better for a street driven car.

The factory ECU can be reprogrammed with a simple chip change regardless of what software you use, Kalmaker and some others use a copy protection mechanism that means you can be up for more expense each time you want to change it.


Kalmaker turns it into a completely lap top programmable ECU - every single factory setting can be changed whenever you want and trust me the factory ECU is far superior to most (if not all) aftermarket ECU's for a street driven car. In otherwords it has better control over idle, closed loop, fuel and spark maps are interpolated and don't just jump from one setting to another etc etc.

I had an absolute butchered 84 Corvette. It had the throttle body injection replaced with tuned port injection and had a monster cam. No-one could get it to idle or perform until I put a Kalmaker in it and that solved all my problems.

#11 tsn007

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 11:50 PM

The problem that i have found with ecu retuning is that its costly about $1250-1900

Most tuners are now into LS1,2,3's

#12 _niterida_

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 12:56 AM

The problem that i have found with ecu retuning is that its costly about $1250-1900

Most tuners are now into LS1,2,3's


The Kalmaker conversion to the std ECU is $1210 - but the ECU is then completely laptop programmable, just like a Motech etc.

#13 _TJ308_

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 01:50 AM

Is the costs to conver to fuel injected worth the overall cost u will save in fuel with just going carby?

#14 _greenmachine215_

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 03:20 AM

Im running a TURBO-350 Trans in my hatch Still retaining the original TYPE of drive cable, The speedo can be over ridden if your not using a TH700 Box

Tuning also depends where you take it, I Used to work with a bloke that now has his own workshop he's tuning my engine/ecu from scratch for $600 on the dyno, with over 25 years in the EFI Tuning game and seeing his work i wouldnt go elsewhere.

If your just thinkin about running a stock engine you wont need to tune anything.
Cam it and just get the memcal to suit, Thats a DIY Job on the factory ecu.

End of the day it all comes down to how much coin your willing to spend,

ive been in LXDAMO'S Old hatch with a stock Inj 5.0L 5speed and by god it went hard.

#15 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 09:47 AM

Is the costs to conver to fuel injected worth the overall cost u will save in fuel with just going carby?


In my opinion, it's not really about improving fuel economy so much, if that's the main motivation behind converting to EFI i'd recommend sticking with the carby. For me the main motivation behind building my Toranas with EFI was turn key reliability, even in my 355 SL/R with large profile solid cam, 4500rpm stall. With over 440bhp, it starts & idles like a stocker, albiet with a lumpy idle. In addition to marginaly better fuel economy, there are tuning benefits, easy start up & idling & generaly more reliable running no matter whether it's cold one day or boiling hot the next. Personaly, i have the Midas touch when it comes to tuning carby engines, but instead of making them run better, i always seem to make them worse than before i started, so going EFI was a better option for me. Once properly tuned you rarely have to re-tune EFI engines unless you perform more mods etc. Converting an existing carby engine to EFI isn't cheap so for those considering it, you really have to do your homework & be sure it's want you want. Just bolting up an EFI top end to your existing engine (even with a similar profile EFI cam) isn't going to give you heaps more grunt, mainly it will give you more reliable running.

#16 76lxhatch

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 08:17 AM

The Kalmaker conversion to the std ECU is $1210 - but the ECU is then completely laptop programmable, just like a Motech etc.

Its just a matter of installing some NVRAM and a suitable tune that allows writing through the ALDL connection, don't have to spend $1200 to do it:
http://www.delcohacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=71

Or the alternative, which is what I've done, is to get an emulator which can effectively do the same thing for any ECU - tune the car then write a chip once finished.

#17 _niterida_

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 04:04 PM


The Kalmaker conversion to the std ECU is $1210 - but the ECU is then completely laptop programmable, just like a Motech etc.

Its just a matter of installing some NVRAM and a suitable tune that allows writing through the ALDL connection, don't have to spend $1200 to do it:
http://www.delcohack...c.php?f=11&t=71

Or the alternative, which is what I've done, is to get an emulator which can effectively do the same thing for any ECU - tune the car then write a chip once finished.


That conversion is $200, plus you still need to buy software (tunerpro?) and an EEPROM burner and can't do real-time tuning.

You still need to buy Kalmaker software to be able to tune it in real-time.

Sounds like they are still working on it and it will become a competitor to Kalmaker Posted Image

#18 76lxhatch

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 05:05 PM

Tunerpro is free, if you convert your ECU to run the NVRAM then you don't need an EPROM burner because you're not using an EPROM - and the whole point is that it is real time! If you do want to stick with EPROMs the Delco is a good ECU to do so because it offers very in depth datalogging for detailed feedback.

Kalmaker's advantage lies in the expertise behind the scenes, but its not what I would consider a worthwhile proposition for DIY

#19 _niterida_

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 06:09 PM

Tunerpro is free, if you convert your ECU to run the NVRAM then you don't need an EPROM burner because you're not using an EPROM - and the whole point is that it is real time! If you do want to stick with EPROMs the Delco is a good ECU to do so because it offers very in depth datalogging for detailed feedback.

Kalmaker's advantage lies in the expertise behind the scenes, but its not what I would consider a worthwhile proposition for DIY


OK - I was just going by that thread - they said you still need an EPROM burner and it is not real-time unless you have Kalmaker software.
If you are correct than it would be the way to go.

Kalmaker is overpriced considering you have to supply the ECU separately - but you are paying for their software and all the thousands of hours they spent breaking the GMH code and writing the interface.

#20 _rorym_

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 06:31 PM

The VN-VS block has more webbing and is stronger..dont bother using a red block..just get the late model one.
R

#21 76lxhatch

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 07:20 PM

Kalmaker is overpriced considering you have to supply the ECU separately - but you are paying for their software and all the thousands of hours they spent breaking the GMH code and writing the interface.

I'm pretty sure Kalmaker tunes use the factory ECU? Hence needing to disassemble the GM code.

I could be wrong but I think they just write you a chip when finished tuning, just like everyone else.

#22 _niterida_

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 08:26 PM


Kalmaker is overpriced considering you have to supply the ECU separately - but you are paying for their software and all the thousands of hours they spent breaking the GMH code and writing the interface.

I'm pretty sure Kalmaker tunes use the factory ECU? Hence needing to disassemble the GM code.

I could be wrong but I think they just write you a chip when finished tuning, just like everyone else.


They can just write you a chip if that is what you want, but they also modify the GM ECU so that you can plug your laptop in and do real time tuning on every single variable. Makes for a much more streetable tune since GM put a lot more in the ECU for 'driveability' tuning.

#23 Dasman56

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 06:56 PM

Kalmaker was good 5-10 yeas ago when there were'nt many other options for the factory ecu's. Now if you do a search of the internet you'll find what Kalmaker costs $1200 for, every one on the internet is doing for almost nothing. http://support.moate...ch-20-overview/ All you need is this emulator that turns the factory ecu into a REALTIME 100% programable unit ( all up about $200 ). All the software is completley free. But this is definately a DIY propositon, if you take your factroy tune and tweek it no worries, but an all out retune on a highly modified engine will take a bit more know how. Thats were taking your car to a tuner with a system he is familiar with can be a big advantage.

#24 gtrboyy

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Posted 23 June 2010 - 07:45 PM

Years ago we put injected top end onto an early block that still had the std dished pistons,ran fine..I think we had to use the vn pushrods as well although I cant remember if there was a difference in lengths.

You could feel that it a bit less low down grunt due to less cr so we put into limp mode & changed the timing from 10deg to 12 no problem at all,probably could have gone to 14 as was the trick back then if you run premium but I cbf'd getting to the dissy as it was in a vk,mate was happy with it anyway..vk with t5 & 3.45 b/w lsd went heaps better than his old carby 308,had bit more grunt,used less fuel & generally a nicer car to drive.




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