Including the yanks, theres over 200mil peopleHe has exceeded his bandwitdh. Too many people all over the intranetz drooling over his shit.
Body resto on rusty 1969 Camaro
#151
Posted 25 July 2010 - 09:45 PM
#152 _dirtbag_
Posted 26 July 2010 - 03:31 AM
I'm amazed it's taken this long to exceed the limit. It's been close a fair few times.
#153
Posted 26 July 2010 - 08:59 AM
Well people I had to pay to upgrade my photobucket account to "Pro" so the images would come back, so you'd better keep looking at my crap!!!! : )
I'm amazed it's taken this long to exceed the limit. It's been close a fair few times.
Great work mate. Where do I send the donations????
#154 _SS Hatchback_
Posted 26 July 2010 - 10:47 AM
So how many projects do you have going at once?
#155 _dirtbag_
Posted 26 July 2010 - 12:47 PM
As for projects on the go, well there's the torana, 69 camaro, 75 firebird and when I can get a moment there's my wifes 68 firebird. That's it at the moment.
I have a V8 cortina to do once the torana is finished, so I'll still have no spare room : )
#156 _cruiza_
Posted 26 July 2010 - 07:06 PM
#157 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 26 July 2010 - 07:17 PM
Then sell it to me.
Cheers.
#158 _dirtbag_
Posted 02 August 2010 - 09:02 PM
just as well you are not trying to build a house or new shed then
Yeah, well : )
Had the soil samples taken today for the new house site, so that's good to see something get done.
Plus all the earthworks for the new shed are pretty much finished, and the shed itself has been ordered. 12 x 24 metres. That's the biggest I could afford : (
Well I did a bit on the camaro today. Not as much as I'd like, but still better than nothing.
Next part I wanted to fix was under the rear seat and into the boot floor on the left hand side.
Here's part of the new panel I made. It has a slight hump in it, as that's to clear one of the bolts for the front leaf spring mount.
Even though this is only a fairly small repair, I did it on 2 pieces. Some repairs are just easier to nut out in smaller bits. I made the new pieces, then marked it out on the car and cut the old bitsout. That way I know the new pieces will fit straight in.
Here's the inside area cleaned and rust converted.
Next area to cop a chop was this part on the inside of the wheel tub, behind the rear seat.
Do get access to this area, I'm going to temporarily remove the framework that supports the rear seat.
Here's the first bits cut out. Not too pretty.
After some more trimming, cleaning and converting.
I was limited for time so didn't get much actual repairing done, but I also had a chop at the base of the B pillar in the door jam.
This repair will be made from about 3 pieces, as the rust wraps right around the pillar.
And that's about all I got done today. Tomorrow will be back on the hatch for a day, then back to this one. This one is more fun.
Not as pretty yet though : )
#159
Posted 15 August 2010 - 07:41 PM
#160 _dirtbag_
Posted 16 August 2010 - 09:23 AM
Hopefully I'll be able to get right into this one finally in the next few weeks.
#161 _dirtbag_
Posted 24 August 2010 - 12:08 AM
I started where I left off and welded the new piece into the support brace for the floor next to the wheel tub.
There's not a lot of room for access to this area, so I removed the support brace for the rear seat. I'll weld it back in when the repair is done.
I then made up the new piece of floor to go over the top. The holes are for where it will be plugged welded onto the new piece in the above pic.
Then after welding the rear seat brace back in and putting some rust converter on it, it looked something like this. These areas that will never be seen sure do take up a lot of time.
This was the view from inside the wheel tub. You can see the main support that had to be cut here.
Here's the 2 new pieces fitted. All of these repairs will get seam sealed, and the underside sprayed with underbody deadener.
Next job was the lower rear corner of the door jam.
With the old metal cut away I could see some of the inner sill needed replacing too.
Having a sheetmetal folder and shrinker/stretcher makes fabricating pieces like this a lot easier. I used to make all my bits with a vice and hammer : )
Again with the rust converter.
It never looks like much work, but these fiddly areas burn up the time something fierce. That's it for the cabin area on this side. Tomorrow I'll make the lower front guard mount and start fixing the rust around the windscreen and the top of the dash. It's good to be cutting and welding again : )
#162
Posted 24 August 2010 - 12:50 AM
Having a shrinker/stretcher makes fabricating pieces like this a lot easier.
Pic of this unit please.
#163 _dirtbag_
Posted 24 August 2010 - 05:59 AM
I bought mine from Summit Racing, but now they're readily available from ebay.
Hope that helps.
#164 _DomDom_
Posted 24 August 2010 - 10:16 PM
Is that office chair for welding or relaxing between jobs?
Dom
#165 _dirtbag_
Posted 25 August 2010 - 06:35 AM
#166
Posted 25 August 2010 - 01:25 PM
Wise words indeed i think.
The owner of this old girl must be committed because it looks fairly ordinary.
#167
Posted 25 August 2010 - 04:27 PM
I had a look on e-bay and there is one listed with a picture of the jaws open.
I've got half an idea what it does now.
#168 _dirtbag_
Posted 25 August 2010 - 06:23 PM
There's 4 teeth, 2 on top and 2 below. Each tooth has small ribs in them to grip onto the sheet metal. When the shrinker head is on, as the teeth clamp onto the sheet metal, they also pull in towards each other, gathering the metal. When the stretcher teeth are in, they clamp the metal then separate from each other, pulling the metal. They're quite basic, which is why I think they're so good.
I did a bit more on the car yesterday.
I had to make the lower front guard mount for the left hand side. I started the shaping off by using the bead roller to put two swages in the metal.
This will become where the guard sits against.
I finally bought a set of imperial drills. I have a set of sutton metric drills, but am too much of a tight arse to spend that sort of money again, so when these came up for $27 I grabbed them. Bargain. They're chinese, but even my sutton ones say they're made in china.
After a couple of folds and a hole drilled, it started to look how I wanted it to.
I welded a 3/8 nut in as the old mount had a captive nut too.
And finally welded into the car. It took a while to position this, as it's a fairly important mount. The guard had to go on and off a few times.
Tomorrow I'll cut and weld something else on the car : )
#169
Posted 25 August 2010 - 06:33 PM
There's 4 teeth, 2 on top and 2 below. Each tooth has small ribs in them to grip onto the sheet metal. When the shrinker head is on, as the teeth clamp onto the sheet metal, they also pull in towards each other, gathering the metal. When the stretcher teeth are in, they clamp the metal then separate from each other, pulling the metal. They're quite basic, which is why I think they're so good.
Attached Files
#170 _DomDom_
Posted 25 August 2010 - 08:10 PM
Hey a wise man once told me ....never stand when you can sit.....and never sit when you can lay down!!!!!
Wise words indeed i think.
The owner of this old girl must be committed because it looks fairly ordinary.
That is so true!
Dom
#171 _dirtbag_
Posted 26 August 2010 - 06:20 PM
I put some sealer around all the repairs I've carried out so far.
Next job was to fix the rust in the top corner of the windscreen opening and weld up the holes from where the chrome trims were for the vinyl roof.
Then there was the corner of the dash and a little bit further forward too.
You'll have to excuse these next few pics. I used the flash and shouldn't have.
Here I've cut the outer layers of the dash corner off, revealing a little bit of rust in the bottom layer.
Here's the first layer repaired. It's hard to see though. Silly me and my flash : )
Then the next layer was replaced.
And finally the outer layer. The other bits of rust are also fixed in this pic.
This pic shows where one of the seams has been welded up. Badly. The owner wants this seam smooth, so I'll grind it out and re weld it. I also need to do something about that rivetted repair, and weld up more of those pesky vinyl roof trim holes.
Here's the seam ground out and re welded and the vinyl roof holes welded too.
Time to finally chop that horrible rivetted panel out.
Looks a bit better now.
Once all that was done I figured I'd reprime all the metal areas, and seal up the sealant.
Looks nice and solid now with some paint on it.
I think the roof line and C pillar look a lot better with all the holes filled.
The lower front guard mount
The areas around the rear wheel tub look a lot nicer with some sealant around the edges.
No more rivets!!!!
I bought a new knife today. It's a stanley knife, but it's HUUUGE!! I love it. I actually bought it to finish the foam work on the bench for the torrie ute, but I'll put a pic here just for fun : )
Next job will be the boot floor and tail light panel.
#172
Posted 26 August 2010 - 06:58 PM
#173 _dirtbag_
Posted 16 September 2010 - 03:06 AM
There was more rust hiding in this area than I first thought, so I just cut the whole lot out. I couldn't see a reason for all the lumps and bumps here so made it smooth instead. It gets covered by the door trim anyway.
Next fun job was removing the rusted metal from the front corner.
Pieces like this I find a lot easier to remake in multiple pieces. This repair will be 4 pieces.
Here's the first 2 pieces fitted.
I used the bead roller to put the swage into the 3rd piece.
Tada, all fixed. Repairs like this seem to take forever, as I find them a bit fiddly, but I think it turned out OK.
The old door skin was pretty shagged, so it's GONE!!!!!!
This is all that's left. I ran out of day so this is all I got done, but next time I'll fit the new skin and get the door rehung onto the car.
#174
Posted 17 September 2010 - 12:37 PM
#175
Posted 17 September 2010 - 06:00 PM
Cheers Mick.
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