hi
i have a lh with a stock injected vp comm motor. i will be working it soon and will be aiming for about 450 hp, at what hp should i start thinking about chasis strengthening, if its needed at all .
thanks Andrew
chasis strenthening
Started by
_pato_
, Jul 02 2010 12:04 AM
20 replies to this topic
#2
Heath
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Posted 02 July 2010 - 12:46 AM
Depends entirely on what you're doing with the car.
If it's going to wear big fat drag slicks doing serious launches on the strip then the forces will be a lot higher than with skinny street tires in any conditions. Apparently the trailing arm mounts are fairly limiting in their standard form but I wouldn't know. If you're into proper drag racing a standard Torana rear suspension setup probably isn't ideal anyway
If you're racing it around a track then it doesn't matter how much (or little) power you have, you will want more torsional rigidity so that you can actually tune things.
The solutions to the two different situations aren't the same though, either.
If it's going to wear big fat drag slicks doing serious launches on the strip then the forces will be a lot higher than with skinny street tires in any conditions. Apparently the trailing arm mounts are fairly limiting in their standard form but I wouldn't know. If you're into proper drag racing a standard Torana rear suspension setup probably isn't ideal anyway
If you're racing it around a track then it doesn't matter how much (or little) power you have, you will want more torsional rigidity so that you can actually tune things.
The solutions to the two different situations aren't the same though, either.
#3
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Posted 02 July 2010 - 05:04 PM
its going to be a street car dont think it will ever be raced, although i might want to take it down the quarter to see what times i gets.
#4
Heath
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Posted 02 July 2010 - 06:09 PM
Probably not worth bothering then.
#5
rodomo
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Posted 02 July 2010 - 07:31 PM
Just weld the back doors shut.
#6
LS1LHTorana
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Posted 05 July 2010 - 12:52 PM
I put a set of chassis connectors in mine, got them from the castlemain rod shop a long time ago for about $450. It really stiffened the car up and added about 20KG in weight. I run a mild 380HP LS1 currently but are building a 700 HP 427 LS1 which would twist the stock Torana to bits pretty quickly. If you like your car it's money well spent IMO.
#8
_mr hatchback_
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Posted 06 July 2010 - 06:19 PM
Hey there mate, I had only a 300 plus hp 312 stroked motor in my last LX Hatchback & I put a Rod Hadfield 'Castlemaine Rod Shop' full length chassis kit in my Hatchback & it really stiffened the the car up & made quite a difference & I boxed the rear trailing arms along with Bilstein Shocks & King Srings that really made the whole car feel & drive great.
What's a little bit more weight if you have the torque to pull the light package of a Torana with a strong motor as you will only be preventing a nasty rear end twist if you do get it too that state thou you would not be the first to twist the rear section of a Torana.
Good Luck Mate.
What's a little bit more weight if you have the torque to pull the light package of a Torana with a strong motor as you will only be preventing a nasty rear end twist if you do get it too that state thou you would not be the first to twist the rear section of a Torana.
Good Luck Mate.
#9
LXCHEV
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Lotsa Posts!
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Posted 07 July 2010 - 08:08 PM
I also fitted the CRS chassis kit to my LX. It definitely stiffened up the car nicely, very happy I did it. This kit also allowed me to pass engineers for the Chev upgrade too, but that wasn't my reason for fitting it initially.
If you're after an "off-the-shelf" kit, then I'd recommend the CRS one. Otherwise, there are lots of other options - eg. your local fabrication shop could probably make something up to suit your car. There's been plenty of DIY chassis improvements done by various people on the forums too... great way to save cash, as I believe the CRS kits are worth an arm and a leg now these days (I paid just over $400 for mine, but that was many years ago now).
If you're after an "off-the-shelf" kit, then I'd recommend the CRS one. Otherwise, there are lots of other options - eg. your local fabrication shop could probably make something up to suit your car. There's been plenty of DIY chassis improvements done by various people on the forums too... great way to save cash, as I believe the CRS kits are worth an arm and a leg now these days (I paid just over $400 for mine, but that was many years ago now).
#10
_UCV80_
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Posted 08 July 2010 - 01:50 AM
Just do it, if you have a look at the Torana shell/chassis the only thing holding the front to the back in the roof and floor pan in the middle which is just asking to twist. At least weld in some chassis connectors. I made up a diagram of the CRS kit so people could make there own. You may find it if you search the forum. You don't need to spend big dollars.
#11
TerrA LX
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Posted 08 July 2010 - 10:45 AM
UCV80, do you have a link or can you email it to me please?
#12
_UCV80_
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Posted 08 July 2010 - 11:30 AM
I have lost it over the years, i made it about 4years ago. Im pretty sure "SLR Goat" has a copy of it on his PC. Send him a PM
#13
TerrA LX
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Posted 08 July 2010 - 12:09 PM
Will do, cause the search function sux.
#15
_UCV80_
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Posted 08 July 2010 - 07:28 PM
Yeap that's the one, You just cut out a section in the floor pan and slide them into the front chassis rails and weld them in. They join the front rails to the rear trailing arm mounts. Its pretty easy. I think CRS charge quite alot for something so simple.
#16
_UCV80_
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Posted 08 July 2010 - 07:49 PM
Just found this picture of my car aswell, this should help anyone wanting to strengthen there chassis.
Pretty easy, simple, effective and cheap
Pretty easy, simple, effective and cheap
#17
_SLR Goat_
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Posted 08 July 2010 - 09:53 PM
This one?
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/index.php?showtopic=35349
U stole my moment of glory lol
#18
_pato_
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Posted 10 July 2010 - 07:45 AM
thanks for all the replies guys, love this forum. i proberbly will go ahead and strenthen it, not sure how much power i will end up with when im done with the rebuilt. might be silly question, but how do i know the chasis is straight to begin with, and what do i do if its not thanks.oh and how do i go about welding the doors shut, will it be hard to get rego lol.
Edited by pato, 10 July 2010 - 07:50 AM.
#19
Heath
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Posted 10 July 2010 - 10:59 AM
To check the chassis is straight, lift the car up on a level hard floor like a really nice concrete garage floor. Use a plumbob to mark out all of the mounting points and shit on the ground, check if it is all symmetrical.
But honestly I would just spend some time looking at all of your panel gaps and shape of all of the panels, inspect underneath and find if and where it has had hits or repairs.
But honestly I would just spend some time looking at all of your panel gaps and shape of all of the panels, inspect underneath and find if and where it has had hits or repairs.
#20
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Posted 13 July 2010 - 03:25 PM
might be silly question, but how do i know the chasis is straight to begin with, and what do i do if its not thanks.
A quick test is to measure wheel centres front to back diagonally and down the length of the car.
Check mounts, rubbers then look for damaged members or chassis.
oh and how do i go about welding the doors shut, will it be hard to get rego lol.
Won't be hard for rego with the doors welded up, I would say impossible would be closer to the money.
Oh and as above, I would avoid shitting on the ground and checking it out.
#21
Heath
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Posted 13 July 2010 - 04:43 PM
Oh and as above, I would avoid shitting on the ground and checking it out.
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