AP Racing Vs Nissan 4pot callipers
#26 _ls1lj_
Posted 31 October 2010 - 10:07 AM
Q1 Since most of the work is done by the front brakes is there much benefit in upgrading the rears?
Q2 If you stay close to the general rule that the rear piston area should be roughly half that of the front or does calliper quality come into the mix? I will be running decent rubber with 10inch rims on the back if that makes a difference.
Q3 Is there any benefit of running vented discs on the back or does the extra weight cancel out the gains?
I think Talbot, the guy that races the historic race cars uses AP�s on the front and something more standard on the back. He was the guy that had a nice new shinny yellow dolly paint job just for Bathurst then totally killed his car. Saw it on the recovery tilt tray and the front and back were compacted and shifted/twisted sideways � totally faaaaaaaarrrrrkkkkedd it.
But anyway, I�m in the middle of the Timor sea so can�t measure my back discs but assume from the PBR catalogue that they are DBA016 - � 279, 10.5mm thick solid rotor.
If I was going to stay close to my current setup I would upgrade to the DBA4016 sloted rotors - � 279, 10.5mm thick. Looked for a 2 pot calliper to suit, but the closest I could find was the CP1559 max � 282, 10mm thick.
Q4 So just not wide enough, would they work anyway? Or I could machine down 0.5mm off a new set of discs to compensate?
If I used this set up I would not have to try and configure a new handbrake system. However the current system consists of a backing plate (appears to be cast but haven�t checked) with what I suspect to be standard commo handbrake assembly just tacked to the backing plate. Seems a bit bodgy and the current pads that I inherited with the diff look and feel like they have been soaking in oil/grease for a long time and have started to deteriorate and need replacing anyway. The handbrake cable was also bodgy as it had cables that were too short, which had been joined with u bolts. Previous owner has also cut a large hole behind the handbrake assembly for some reason???? So in hindsight not that fussed about replacing the whole system.
I just started looking for other disc options that would still allow 15 in rims. Options appear to be:
� DBA041 VT-VZ solid �286, 16 mm thick
� DBA041 VT-VX Clubsport vented �286, 16 mm thick � why same part number??????
� DBA2021 VZ SSZ vented �286, 18 mm thick
� DBA 047 VN/VP/VR/VS Clubby vented �278 or �280, 20 mm thick
� DBA2027 VE V6 vented �302, 22 mm thick � bigger studs, heavier, different centre hold diameter = not a preferred option
Again looked for a 2 pot AP calliper around the �300 range, in 16,18,20 mm thick but couldn�t find much at all.
CP6126-2/3SO are for 17.8mm thick vented disc
CP6120/CP6121 are for �282, 12.7mm solids � formula ford
CP5100 are for �295 25.4mm thick vented � only disc close to this is HQ front which has integrated hub so no good.
The AP website search engine is crap, would be so much easier if there was a product catalogue like the DBA one. Can anyone suggest some part numbers that may work or post up some links?
Cheers
#27 _rorym_
Posted 31 October 2010 - 12:11 PM
For Bling factor the APs win hands down.
My 2cs.
R
#28
Posted 31 October 2010 - 01:28 PM
Hence he doesn't need good brakes
Take a drive in a well set up car and you will eat every word said about inferior brakes...I guarantee it
Brakes make you faster... makes the straights longer... so you can use the power longer... simple
Yes you have stock Commy rear brakes
So put the DBA 020 vented version on
Goes straight onto what you have now with no handbrake changes
They have a 160mm handbrake... the VT on run a 190mm... so changes would need to be made to use them
However you'll struggle to fit an AP caliper onto the back with that diameter... 280mm
They need 315mm or so to clear everything due to the bracket design
So... back to Nissan caliper we go... you could put a 2 pot R32 or #3 rear caliper onto that disc... I think
I've not finished the hilux we're playing with to know its definatly going to fit... but its worth a look
#29 _ls1lj_
Posted 31 October 2010 - 10:35 PM
From what I can see in the BDA catalouge and on the internet all Rear Nissan variants with vented rotors are for 18mm thick discs and some for 22mm. The only Nissan rear 20mm callipers I could find were the 300ZX/300ZR, late 80�s stuff.
Are these the right ones? What should i expect to pay for a set in good condition?
http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3cb1f80a20
Any other skyline variants that weren�t imported into Australia that would do the trick or did i miss some?
If i can't find anything to suit the the DBA 020 I can just grind the 160mm handbrake off and weld on the VT one. I have to get a station wagon handbrake cable anyway to get the current setup to work, so I can pick up the VT stuff also for a 6 pack.
Some interesting info here for people who are interested
http://justskylines.com/knowledgebase/brakes/rotor_caliper_info.aspx
http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm
#30 _ls1lj_
Posted 01 November 2010 - 02:31 AM
#31
Posted 01 November 2010 - 04:47 AM
See the pics above for them.... on a 330mm disc
Don't go too big or you won't get enough heat in them to work
Those Z calipers are same as R32
A few mm difference in disc thickness won't matter to a caliper that has the pads held in by pins as the pad can't flick out like a collette style
They will do the trick... but having said that I haven't tried them yet
We did put some series 4 RX7 4 pot fronts on the 020 once though
#32 _ls1lj_
Posted 02 November 2010 - 05:53 AM
Would it just feel a bit cold/greasy for the first 3 stops or would you have to do a couple of hard stops to bring the pads up to temp?
I assume you are not refering to getting heat into the callipers or fluid themselves, as I would expect performance to decrese with high heat???
To be honnest i'm a bit of a hoon most of the time and either accelarate or brake flat out and just cruze when i get to whatever speed if it's relevant.
#33
Posted 02 November 2010 - 11:10 AM
Harrops ran larger... same size as a Porsche 928 S4
So still alot smaller than the 6 pot AP
Big is not always best
Infact you want to run the smallest brakes you can get away with
Then you have less unsprung and rotating mass to contend with
Temp in disc is required... too hot... excessive wear + fade
Too cold... excessive wear and poor performance
The CP5200 would be adequate for 99% of the population
Check out ozyozyozy.... he runs them... regularly... competatively... and with no issues
Pad choice counts
I like Ferodo DS2500 or Pagid RS42 (blue)
Depends how fast you are
Welby was running RS14 in his.... but till he got fast (Sunday).... they were abit wishy washy
Once he started heating them up and beating up on them were excellent
Previous Targas were all wet till Sunday... so he couldn't drive hard
This year was an all dry event.... hence his top 3 placing (an unofficial win on countback ... hehe)
But this year he grabbed some EBC yellowstuff at the last minute
Not my choice of pad... but they worked
#34
Posted 02 November 2010 - 09:23 PM
i use an old style ap 4 piston caliper on the vn vented disc on the rear, with an adjustable brake bias on the rear hydraulic circuit.
as for brake pads i have been using the ferodo ds2500 front and rear. they were spot on for targa south west. the pagids would be better i think for the track as the ferodo`s, i found can over heat. when i go to the track or do events with very hard breaking i fit brake ducts.
with the 330 rotor and ferodo`s they do require some heat to get them to work, a couple of hard stops do the job.
#35 _ls1lj_
Posted 03 November 2010 - 07:18 AM
Looks like the 5200's will be the go on the front with the DBA5040BLKSR\L�s as they are 1.75Kg lighter each side than the 4000 series. Are the Ferodo FRP216 in the DS2500 series the right pad for this calliper?
5200 Calliper
DBA5040BLKSR
Do all of the Nissan R32 Alloy callipers look like the pic below? What do the Steel ones look like?
Are the R32 GTS-T Rear Calliper the same even though they came out on the 280 dia disc as I want to install on a 296?
Single piston for reference:
Exploded View of R32 Calliper:
Is the Rear calliper rebuild kit number: 44120-Z32001 the right one? Do I also need 2 off the cross spring 41090-Z32003, or the Pad retainers/shim kit 44080-Z32001
A good list of front Nissan callipers and specs for reference if anyone is interested, couldn�t find a similar list for the rear callipers unfortunately
R32 T : 280mm x 26mm (single pot sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R32 GTS-T (early) : 280mm x 26mm (single pot sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R32 GTS-T type m : 280mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R32 GTR : 296mm x 32mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R32 GTR VSPEC : 324mm x 30mm (4 pot brembo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R33 GTS-25 : 280mm x 26mm (single pot sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R33 GTS-4 : 280mm x 26mm (single pot sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R33 GTS-25T : 296mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R33 GTR : 324mm x 32mm (4 pot brembo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R33 GTR VSPEC : 324mm x 30mm (4 pot brembo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R34 GT : 296mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R34 GTT : 310mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">R34 GTR : 324mm x 32mm (4 pot brembo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">Z33 NA : 324mm x 32mm (4 pot brembo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">Z32 NA : 280mm x 26mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">Z32 TT : 280mm x 30mm (4 pot ali sumitomo caliper)<BR itxtvisited="1">S14, S15 : 280mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)
On the Rear I will probably be using the R32 GTS-T alloy 2 pots (depending on awnser re size of sisc) with the DBA4020SL. I checked in the Ferodo catalogue and there are no pads listed for the rear brakes for either the 300Z/R32 Skyline so is there a pad that is similar that can be used? If not what brand and pad would you recommend?
R32 GTS-T Rear Calliper
DBA4020SL
Hopefully the pics work this time?????
Edited by ls1lj, 03 November 2010 - 07:30 AM.
#36 _ls1lj_
Posted 03 November 2010 - 07:40 AM
R32 T : 280mm x 26mm (single pot sumitomo caliper)
R32 GTS-T (early) : 280mm x 26mm (single pot sumitomo caliper)
R32 GTS-T type m : 280mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)
R32 GTR : 296mm x 32mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)
R32 GTR VSPEC : 324mm x 30mm (4 pot brembo caliper)
R33 GTS-25 : 280mm x 26mm (single pot sumitomo caliper)
R33 GTS-4 : 280mm x 26mm (single pot sumitomo caliper)
R33 GTS-25T : 296mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)
R33 GTR : 324mm x 32mm (4 pot brembo caliper)
R33 GTR VSPEC : 324mm x 30mm (4 pot brembo caliper)
R34 GT : 296mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)
R34 GTT : 310mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)
R34 GTR : 324mm x 32mm (4 pot brembo caliper)
Z33 NA : 324mm x 32mm (4 pot brembo caliper)
Z32 NA : 280mm x 26mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)
Z32 TT : 280mm x 30mm (4 pot ali sumitomo caliper)
S14, S15 : 280mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)
#37
Posted 03 November 2010 - 09:36 AM
The rear is FCP1372H
The H denotes the compound (DS2500)
All the 2 pot rears are alloy
Buy calipers that are complete and have pads still in them
Then you get all the pins,shims,etc included
#38 _ls1lj_
Posted 03 November 2010 - 06:29 PM
Just brought these R32 GTS-T callipers for $110 off evilbay
http://cgi.ebay.com....em=290492154313
Also placed an order with Competition Friction for the callipers and pads. Ordered the discs from my local Repco and K1045 Vt conversion hubs also off evilbay for 350. Hopefully I will have most of the shiny bits when I get back.
Edited by ls1lj, 03 November 2010 - 06:30 PM.
#39 _rorym_
Posted 03 November 2010 - 07:03 PM
R
#40 _ls1lj_
Posted 04 November 2010 - 12:20 PM
Also will I need custom flexible brake hoses/Length for the R32 Callipers? From memory Ap Calipers had 10mm metric thread?
#41 _uctorry_
Posted 04 November 2010 - 01:17 PM
#42
Posted 04 November 2010 - 02:10 PM
Banksias tend to be crap.... depending on the diff and the brakes your planning to use will depend on the diff info
#43 _rorym_
Posted 04 November 2010 - 06:13 PM
R
#44
Posted 04 November 2010 - 06:26 PM
Any of the reputable bias valves should do
They max out at 57% usually...... but your bias might be fairly close to start off with
Or fit a pedalbox/balace bar and run 2 masters
#45
Posted 05 November 2010 - 10:37 AM
by using a larger diameter disc, it changes the leverage point at were the brake caliper reacts, this can help reduce brake lock ups.
if i had my way again i would fit a balance bar on brake pedal and fit 2 master cylinders. this is good for going racing with, not always the best for street tho.
#46 _ls1lj_
Posted 06 November 2010 - 10:16 AM
Master Cylinder
Brake boosters
Datto�s Hydropower Chart
Pros and cons of adjustable brake bias vs pedal box and balance bar:
I understand that a pedal box with balance bar allows real time adjustment or brake bias and is a far superior set up. This allows you to adjust the balance as the handling characteristics of the car change. Ie as tyres wear unevenly, but mainly due to weight difference of fuel. This however seems over the top for my application. Expensive, complicated and I�m a lazy frOcker so once I set it I probably wouldn�t adjust it again.
However in saying that from my understanding it is super difficult to try and guess what brake bias adjuster to use as all are different. A Bias adjuster is basically a pressure regulator for the back brakes. Equal pressure will be applied to the front and back brakes up until the point at which the adjustable brake balancer has been set at. After that the pressure will still continue to increase in the rear circuit, but at a slower rate than pressure is applied to the front. The rate at which this rises is preset according to different manufactures specs and can�t be changed. The only way to set the balance point is by feel, but then you would have to trial and error different brands to get the right pressure gradient to suit the vehicle.
Am I reading too much into this or should I just wack an adjustable brake balancer in the rear circuit and just keep backing it off slightly until just past the point where the rear brakes don�t ever lock?
#47
Posted 06 November 2010 - 01:40 PM
It is not legal to have brake bias that can be manually adjusted whilst driving in a street car. On a street car you would just set it so that the rear brakes do not lockup. I suspect your remote boosters will make fine tuning brake balance rather difficult. It would be worth considering removing the check valve from the boosters and placing a single check valve before the vacuum is split to the boosters. That way the vacuum will always be equal in the boosters.
The main operational difference between a pedal box and a proportioning valve is that the brake bias is consistent at all pressures. Another advantage of the pedal box is the ease with which the size of the front and rear master cylinders can be changed.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 06 November 2010 - 01:51 PM.
#48
Posted 06 November 2010 - 02:07 PM
That master is off an XA-B
Thats why the outlets are on the opposite side to normal Holden masters
If you fitted a balance bar and twin cyls you could happily delete those boosters out of the system too
The Falcom master is difficult to adjust and get the preload set correctly... its also not really suited to disc rear
The bottom piston barely moved when at full stroke.... might be OK for a Commodore piston size but .... I don't like them... might work with the nissan caliper ok
Its 1" .... as almost all Holdens and Fords were
With opposing piston calipers you actually require less pressure and volume to make them work... they are just better more efficient calipers
So no you won't need to go bigger
Infact with a balance bar and twin vyls you would go down to 5/8" front and 3/4" rear
More pressure = more stop
Fitting an adjustable valve with your system would require it to be fitted after the booster unit between it and the rear wheels
#49 _ls1lj_
Posted 06 November 2010 - 08:55 PM
Datto yeah would love to turf the remote brake boosters and by the looks of it you can now buy reasonably priced brake pedal assembly c/w ballance bar and separate masters. These have come along way since i last looked a few years ago. For example:
http://www.google.co...p=20&tbs=isch:1
would this be ok for rego?
How would i determine the correct peddal ratio?
#50
Posted 06 November 2010 - 10:30 PM
Its still a tandem circuit cylinder
And some late model (90's) Jags had no booster and pedal boxes
Measure your pedal ratio now... get something close
I think around 6.25 is normal
2 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users