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PROJECT PAPAYA - A VERY FRUITY RESTO THREAD

Started by notna , Jul 27 2010 11:14 PM

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703 replies to this topic

#276 hanra

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Posted 18 June 2012 - 11:34 PM

Yep as with LH SL and SLR stainless door mouldings, they were a small stud welded to the body for the clip to go onto. When I re did all the stainless mouldings on my doors I used holes and rivets. They worked very well. So I was planning the same for the SLR smile.

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#277 notna

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 08:52 AM

On the weekend I will measure the hole placement from the back of my front apron. You can still see the weld locations. That will give you an idea of placement then, but I don't think it's super critical where they go. Would be good if someone had an original panel to measure from

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#278 hanra

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 10:15 AM

That would be awesome mate. Yeah as you say prob not super critical, but at least I get some idea where to start.

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#279 StephenSLR

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 02:59 PM

It almost looks like The SLR models didn't get it but perhaps the SL range did?

^ This SL/R clearly has it but not the trim piece. I wonder if there was any sequence, dates, etc. as to which SL/R's were blacked out and which weren't, I can't imagine it being totally sporadic.

s

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#280 _Broady247_

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 04:06 PM

Brad,

Due to boredom on paternity leave I thought I might just go down stairs and measure the smile for you. Mine is a late 74 SL and has the little turrets attatched. I will be removing them as i don't really like the smile (which is in good nick if needed). There are six turrets in total spaced as follows and all measured from the number plate mount.

IMG_4580.jpg 75.75K 2 downloads

IMG_4581.jpg 71.63K 5 downloads

FRHs measured from center.

IMG_4586.jpg 38.39K 1 downloads
and again.

IMG_4587.jpg 55.18K 1 downloads
FLHS measured from center.

IMG_4588.jpg 51.39K 1 downloads
and again.

IMG_4591.jpg 49.5K 1 downloads
and height = 9mm measured square off the radiator support area before it turns down towards the turrets.

IMG_4597.jpg 70.65K 2 downloads

The height is common to all the turrets. Were as the distance between and actual horizontal placement varies, as can be seen.

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#281 notna

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 04:25 PM

NIIIICE!

If my resto needs a smile, I'll buy yours Andrew!

I always think of the smile as being the stainless trim piece, but yes, clearly the SL/R did have a black smile only. Maybe we can call that one a toothless smile?

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#282 hanra

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 04:40 PM

Awesome!

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#283 notna

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 04:55 PM

Still working on this front apron. Like all my panel work, I totally strip back to bare metal, massage the panel, then kinda feel pressured to get it into primer soon after. I guess once it is primed, it's protected. Well... more so than bare metal anyway!

I have noticed that on the inside face of front aprons, they seem to develop surface rust. Probably because from the factory, there wasn't much in the way of paint protection applied behind there. I chose to brush on 2 coats of rust preventative satin black. That, plus any primer and colour overspray, should keep the rust at bay.

SML__02.jpg 280.67K 2 downloads

Once that had dried, I gave it 2 coats of 2K Hi-Fill primer. I loooove this stuff... makes a well prepped panel look so smooth and inviting for colour!

SML__12.jpg 236.93K 4 downloads

SML__15.jpg 230.68K 3 downloads

One thing I find interesting is the amount of overspray that can be swept up off the floor. This floor was clean, and that pile of dust is from 2 coats applied to one panel. Scary! I'm starting to think that spraying at home with kids around isn't such a good idea.... :surrenderwave:

SML__09.jpg 170.45K 3 downloads

At this stage of the resto, I'm starting to ask myself some questions.

Should I forget the notion of painting all panels in colour, separately, or should I prime everything, paint the door jams and inside of panels in colour, then assemble the car and paint in colour?

I was going to paint it in 2K colour, but now I'm thinking acrylic + clear. I already have 4L of PPG acrylic clear, and I have done some really amazing, multiple trophy winning, paint jobs in acrylic in the past. It's kinda what I know best.... bloody hard work though to buff it!

Only done one car in 2K colour. Came out good, but I'm no pro and yes, I did get a run in it, and it was a BITCH to fix up!

Thoughts and opinions...?

Edited by notna, 24 June 2012 - 04:58 PM.

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#284 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 05:52 PM

You are wise to be wary of the effects of spraying 2K at home around your family, it is very toxic & the OH&S regulations regarding it's use are strict for good reason. I do use it on my own cars, but i'm carefull to do it when & where it isn't likely to effect anyone around me & i wear the appropriate safety gear. I also restrict myself to the basic hi-filling & edging out & hire out proper paint ovens for the final paint. I almost re-painted my orange LH in acrylic, but decided on 2K for several reasons, the main ones being low maintainence & more durable for how i use my car. If it were a concourse restoration that will only see the light of day occasionaly, acrylic gets my vote, but if the car will see plenty of use in all kinds of weather you can't beat 2K. Just my opinion.

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#285 _Broady247_

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 06:20 PM

My wife owns a paint company, which does lift doors kitchens and other commercial painting, both on site and in house. Most 2K paints are never allowed onsite. And as you can imagine pretty much everything in our house is in 2k polly. Apart from anything in the baby's room (babys chew paint)as it is that toxic even dry.

When ever want to use 2k she makes me go to the factory suit up mask up and get in the booth. She would never allow it anywhere near the house. Acrylic I can paint at home and she has no problem but there is a lot of post spray work. Plus far more coats are required due to sanding and buffing

So in short, I have access to booths and professional painters for tips and help so I prefer 2k. If I didn't, I probably would use acrylic and be good, real good at sanding.

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#286 notna

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 06:20 PM

Hey Matt,

Yea I have done the concourse, show car, rarely driven thing before.... and they were acrylic. This resto is NOT for show... I want to drive this one and I love how tough 2K is.

That being said.... I want to paint it myself.

I liked "Dirtbag's" concept of spraying 2K on the backside of panels and acrylic on the outside. I'm starting to lean towards that idea for my own resto.

I agree Andrew.... sanding and buffing acrylic is an absolute BITCH!

Is that 2K overspray that I swept up on the floor dangerous to breathe in, even when it's dry like that?

Edited by notna, 24 June 2012 - 06:23 PM.

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#287 _Broady247_

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 06:32 PM

Not in smalll amounts. Wear a mask and don't go eating it!!

Oh and the smile might make a appearance (very shortly) on a certain black SLR in cairns.

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#288 notna

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:07 PM

Mask I can do.... :spoton:

599277_10151027643842491_1204502861_n.jpg 33.42K 1 downloads

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#289 _Broady247_

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:25 PM

Google isocyanate case studys

http://www.hse.gov.u...isocyanates.htm

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#290 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:29 PM

Forgive my ignorance, but is that a general purpose dust/paint mask such as you'd buy in Bunnings etc? I own a Sundstrom with three stage filter system for paint/dust & chemical. They are expensive (over $120) & the removable filters are too, but they are the next best thing to a fully enclosed breathing mask. Generic paint/dust masks you buy from hardware stores are not suitable unless they are specificly designed to filter out the chemicals present in 2K.

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#291 _AD_75_

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:36 PM

2k gets my vote. I know a couple of painters and they paint 2k exclusivly these days. I've had a few Acyrlic jobs done over the years and wouldnt bother to use it again..it just doesnt stand up to the same abuse of 2pac and goes dull far too quickly for my liking. Prep the car and hire a booth to do it as matt has done would be the way to go.

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#292 notna

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 10:09 PM

Yea Matt that is a cheapie. I've been using it for priming these panels. All the other 2K spraying I have done was wearing a Sundstrom with dual filters. That was borrowed... don't have access to it now though. I should buy one hey....

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#293 warrenm

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 07:41 AM

Acrylic

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#294 r2160

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 01:24 PM

If you want to paint 2K, why not talk to the spray shops near your home. I know quite a lot of them are happy to hire you the booth and they have all the safety gear. That might be a good alternative!

cheers
Glenn

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#295 notna

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 02:43 PM

Yea I'm thinking that for 2K... I might have to, otherwise it could end up a mess. I wonder what they charge?

Also, was reading up the other day on on 2K hardener and noted that fast hardener makes your paint cure with less gloss. Is that right? Would explain the last 2K home job I did then....

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#296 _AD_75_

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 03:23 PM

I would look into it a bit more anton, a mate of mine works as a taxi smash repairer and painter and he uses fast hardner in every job he does they always come out gleaming. The majority of the jobs he does are non metallics though.

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#297 _nial8r_

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 07:59 PM

hey Anton, grab your self a twin filter mask from Bunnings and then hit the paint supplies joint for the right filters but like Matt said there not cheap. im on my 2nd mask now both bought from bunnings and used the filters it came with for Acrylic jobs, just had to blow them out before using them again, and you know when there shagged when you put the mask on and it feels like your breathing through a straw. with 2K i did notice with the good filters you only get one go with them, then in the bin they go as 2K floats wet and Acrylic floats dry, hence the reason you can blow the filters out when using Acrylic.

Or you can always just take it on and duct tape a huggies to ya face :mellow:

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#298 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 08:01 PM

Fast hardner is good for single panels or when you are painting door apertures etc without the heat of a bake oven. Because bake ovens usualy bake at around 60C & your home garage is unlikely to get anywhere near that hot, 2K with fast hardner will flow out OK & should retain it's gloss. In colder weather like we're having now, i will occasionaly use accelerated hardner.On larger panels or jobs it can lose it's gloss a little, it can also depend on the brand of paint & how it's mixed & applied. When applying the final paint in an oven, i use medium/normal hardner & slow reducer. For arguement's sake, here is one of several parts i painted in 2K COB for a friend in my old man's garage using cheap clear with fast hardner. The photo isn't the best but i can assure you it hasn't lost any of it's shine & it was also painted wet on wet.
Posted Image

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#299 notna

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 08:55 PM

Cool. Thanks for the tips. :spoton:

Bought a Sundstrom mask and spare filters today. Same as what I had used in the past. I still like the idea of 2K colour.... it is tough and can handle a bit of abuse. :fool: