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PROJECT PAPAYA - A VERY FRUITY RESTO THREAD


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#176 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 06:23 PM

great work anton,

keep at it mate,its coming along real good.

did that same disc cut through my finger once.

cheers craig.

#177 _nial8r_

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 06:34 PM

they came up clean Anton, like you said better than sitting there hitting each of them one by one for hrs on end. i will keep this idea in mind when the time comes :buttrock:

#178 notna

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:11 AM

Safety glasses are a good idea Lee. I started doing this with none on, and when that first bit of paint stripper sloshed out of the tin, I was like :o

Question..... How do you press out the lower control arm bushes? The ball joints I can understand, but the bushes...??

Also, is it correct that the upper ball joints were riveted in, and you drill out these rivets to remove them?

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Also, just to show you some dodgy stuff that has been done over the years on this car...... This is the bent part of the K frame. It actually cracked the metal, which some bright spark put silicone over as a way of repairing it. Damn that silicone would have to be tough stuff to hold that together!!! :o

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Any scrap metal merchants in Sydney want this and a few guards? I don't want it hanging around.......

#179 _nzstato_

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:22 AM

Bushes can be taken out with a hefty hammer and a bit of anger. Or can be set in a press and braced so as to not bend the A arm. You are correct with the rivets, drill them out and whack the ball joint with a hammer to remove.

Edited by nzstato, 22 August 2011 - 08:22 AM.


#180 76lxhatch

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:30 AM

Don't use a hammer to get the bushes out, you will definitely bend the arms! Dig through the scrap bin for enough pieces of steel to support everything in the press without bending, I use pieces of pipe (even exhaust pipe will do) cut to length and in half lengthways around the bushes inside the arms. To press from the inside out, use a solid piece of pipe in between the two bushes with a suitable bolt through the other end bush to act on it.

You can generally get at all of the top ball joint rivet heads with an angle grinder, quicker and easier than drilling (and its not like you need to look after the old ball joint). Again support everything nicely to punch the remains of the old rivets out so you don't bend the arm.

#181 _nial8r_

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:50 AM

haha the old paint stripper in the eyes trick hey. copped it once and wasnt nice, it burns enough just getting it on your skin :DOH:

#182 notna

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 09:52 AM

Ah yea... what about the TOP control arm bushes??? How on Earth are they removed, and fitted for that matter??

#183 _lx77slr5k_

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 12:27 PM

nice work mate coming along nicely. I just did the front end on mine i found to get the top bushes out loosen up if with a air chisel then grabbed a big set of multis and spin the tappered metal end and they sorta unscrewed they came out pretty easy to put the new ones in i got abit of 1 1/2'' pipe on the control arm side and 1 3/4'' pipe on the new tappered bit put in the vice and tightened just gotta make sure it goes in straight mine went in pretty easy. As for the other end im strugglen with as the bolts gotta be in there so if u have any ideas let me know
cheers Carl

#184 76lxhatch

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 02:11 PM

Top arm bushes you just need one piece of pipe with a section out of the length of it to wrap around the pivot and avoid bending the arm. Use the pin itself to press the bushes out - first one is a bit of a pain as the rubber moves a long way (and will sometimes pop the rubber out of the bush shell), second one remove the pin and put a decent washer on it to contact the shell before pressing it out

#185 notna

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Posted 22 August 2011 - 03:01 PM

Bit of heat ok?

#186 StephenSLR

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 03:40 PM

With the lower control arms, where the stabiliser bar pin goes through, if the hole is worn to a keyhole shape, how do you fix this?

Can weld be used to get it back to circular?

s

#187 76lxhatch

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 06:55 PM

notna I've heard of people burning out rubber bushes then collapsing the shell, I don't see how heat would damage anything other than the bushes which you are replacing - may make it a little easier to bend the steel arms if you use too much but you have to be careful either way so not really an issue.

StephenSLR welding it up would be my choice, ideally the steel pin isn't supposed to make contact, only the bushes are.

#188 rodomo

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 10:22 PM

StephenSLR welding it up would be my choice, ideally the steel pin isn't supposed to make contact, only the bushes are.


Bits and pieces like this will wear if altered from standard, eg. lowering, as the parts are working at different angles as per originally designed. If your going to weld the hole and remanufacture it, I would look at the "new" angle of the components and alter the hole to suit.

#189 TerrA LX

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Posted 31 August 2011 - 12:45 AM

With the lower control arms, where the stabiliser bar pin goes through, if the hole is worn to a keyhole shape, how do you fix this?

Can weld be used to get it back to circular?

s


Do ya mean the holes are flogged out on the control arms where the sway bar locates?
Weld washers and thick steel sleeves (pipe) where they will clear onto the control arm and ensure the bar stays tight.

#190 StephenSLR

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 02:28 PM

Posted Image


If you haven't done so already, don't forget a drain hole for that battery tray, otherwise the plastic battery tray won't sit in right.

s

#191 notna

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 05:25 PM

Seems like forever since i have done an update. Rest assured, work hasn't stopped! I've been chiseling away slowly at 2 key areas. 1 is the front end rebuild and 2 is the engine bay. The intention is to fully rebuild the front end, prep and paint the bay, install the front end so that it is back on all 4 wheels, then spin it around in my garage so that the rear is facing out. Tight space and limited room means it will be easier to do repairs to the rear in this position. I have a small sill repair to weld and 1 rear 1/4 lower section to replace.

Anyway, this is where I have been putting in my time recently....

Firstly, I did end up hammering out the old bushes. They were rooted afterall, so some swift blows with a BFH wasn't really going to make anything worse! They came out fairly easily.

Then I wire wheeled all the front end components, so they were super clean and ready for some POR chassiscoat. Here, one is prepped and the other not. You can see the difference.

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Then I sprayed them with satin black chassiscoat, and hung them out to dry.

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Once they had dried adequately, I sent them off to a mechanic to have new bushes and ball joints pressed in properly. Cost $99 for this..... but really, what is the alternative? BFH was never an option to install them all!

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They have come up really well. I'm not after concourse with all of this kind of stuff, because the type of person I am will end up never driving the car if it is more than a streetable resto. Still, they are pretty shmick.

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I have also progressed the engine bay. It was stripped back to bare metal, then etch primed. I chose to use seam sealer in the factory places, to a factory finish (ie: bloody messy). :D I also chose to seam seal in places where I think seams should be sealed. I used sikaflex in a caulking gun for that, and made it uber neat. You can sorta tell from the pic. After this I 2K hi-fill primed the bay. I have given it plenty, so I can wet sand it back to something very nice and flat. I want a standard appearance here.... so no smoothing, shaving, filling etc. All as it was from the factory :)

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Soon I will give the bay some colour and install the rebuild front end. That's what you can expect next.... I'm just not sure when ;)

#192 notna

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 05:30 PM

A couple more pics for you..... we all love pics after-all.

Bay in hi-fill primer.....

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More bay in primer....

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#193 _nial8r_

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 06:03 PM

wondered what happened to you Anton :nada: but at least you have progressed with your build and all quality work too. looking forward to the next lot of pic's :clappin:

#194 notna

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Posted 29 October 2011 - 08:01 PM

Been massively busy with work. Just never get a chance to bludge and browse the forum! I'll have to make more effort! :clap:

#195 notna

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 10:18 PM

Bought this bad boy today..... figured it was going to be years before I got the Project Papaya on the road, and I was really itching to get into a V8 again ..... it's only been 18 frocking years!!!!!!

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So I'm going to put the SL/R to the side for a lil bit until motivation returns. In the meantime, the SS will keep me smiling! :D

#196 hanra

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 10:30 PM

I hope you dont stop for to long Anton, I dont want to overtake you!

#197 notna

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 06:59 PM

Well I picked up the SS last Friday, and haven't got rid of the smile yet :D Why exactly, did it take me 17 years to get back into a V8?? Man they are addictive!@!

#198 notna

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 07:05 PM

Oh and for now...... this is my SL/R..... It's definitely not a quitting action, but I had to get some priorities right or else it was OR ELSE! :) Already had one mate say "sell it to me".... but it definitely aint for sale. I think I shall keep it for my post divorce hobby :)

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#199 _bully_

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 08:04 AM

HI Anton
Great work, it is all worth it when your cruising around. Thats when you have a smile on your face, new cars are great but old Toranas are GREATER!!!
Thought I would ask, have you still got the K frame out of the UC?
Keep up the great work!!!

#200 _nial8r_

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 10:54 AM

nice looking ride there mate, the newer V8's sure do move along at a nice rate :D:D when i get the itch i jump in the VYSS Manual and it has no trouble leaving rubber on the road from the 245/35/20's :D:D:D i had a test drive in a mate VE SV6 and the power that thing put out was a bit of a suprise :mellow:




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